Epoxy coating for covered patio.
- Thread starter mikes02ls1
- Start date
kd3pc
Well-known member
most epoxy products are not UV friendly, how much sun does the patio get?
The uncovered spot will get full UV when the RV is not on it.
the pros will post, and I would see what they say about their product and UV, even the casual kind.
The uncovered spot will get full UV when the RV is not on it.
the pros will post, and I would see what they say about their product and UV, even the casual kind.
Shea
Well-known member
If you want a rustic look, do an acid stain and top coat with an MMA acrylic sealer. The MMA acrylic will not amber and it breathes. Just keep in mind that any type of topical sealer that is exposed to the elements outdoors can be slippery when wet.
OP
mikes02ls1
Well-known member
Yeah I was looking at the acid stain with sealer. Wonder if there is something you can add to keep from being slippery. Was also thinking Linex.
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OP
mikes02ls1
Well-known member
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Stain/Seal
Or we have an outdoor flake system.
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Or we have an outdoor flake system.
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OP
mikes02ls1
Well-known member
Stain/Seal
Or we have an outdoor flake system.
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How does it hold up to Arizona 120 degree summers? Also with a F350 driving over it.
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
No cars. This is a pedestrian product. This pool-deck is in Winter Park, FL.
LINK: http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/traffic-deck-coatings/trafficdek-flake-coating-system.html
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LINK: http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/traffic-deck-coatings/trafficdek-flake-coating-system.html
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Last edited:
OP
mikes02ls1
Well-known member
What about a acid stain for my rv parking and covered patio?
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Acid stain is great or check out our DeltaDye (more colors).
and then topcoat with our HD6525MMA Sealer (breathable).
OP
mikes02ls1
Well-known member
The Deltadye with sealer kit can handle vehicles driving over it, and take the Arizona heat? What's a kit cost to cover 1000 sqft?
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes can take vehicle traffic and heat. However, the sealer will need to be re-applied as needed and that is exactly what you want. Anything that does not naturally expire outside will eventually need to be taken off with dynamite- not fun.
Around .60 per square foot.
OP
mikes02ls1
Well-known member
What's all in a kit to do the job right? Been on you website but have no clue on what is all needed. I assume you need to acid etch the concrete first? I have cracks that I epoxied with sand, so I assume I need to grind before I start anything else. Sorry for the questions
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Hi,
We have an outdoor flake system that can be medium- full broadcast fully UV tolerant flake system using our Spartacote coatings. You could get a granite rustic look that way, or use a stain and the same protective coating.
We have an outdoor flake system that can be medium- full broadcast fully UV tolerant flake system using our Spartacote coatings. You could get a granite rustic look that way, or use a stain and the same protective coating.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Polyaspartic , outside , will crack and deteriorate over time. Picture plastic yellowing over time. Too rigid, has to be flexible to make it.
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The Florida Sun wins every time. It may not yellow but it WILL become brittle. If it does not flex it is toast.
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We really like that.
We have an area right the same size as the OP, 3 12x12 slabs. The original slab is 1/3 the total size and the previous home owner recently added 2 more identical slabs which look brand new.
The original is not in the best shape, cracks and all that.
We have a walk out and the cost to remove the actual cement equaled the cost of the new cement due to the hill.
Is there a top filler or leveler that could go over the cement before coating?
1/2 is obscured by a deck overhead, the other 1/2 is open.
We have an area right the same size as the OP, 3 12x12 slabs. The original slab is 1/3 the total size and the previous home owner recently added 2 more identical slabs which look brand new.
The original is not in the best shape, cracks and all that.
We have a walk out and the cost to remove the actual cement equaled the cost of the new cement due to the hill.
Is there a top filler or leveler that could go over the cement before coating?
1/2 is obscured by a deck overhead, the other 1/2 is open.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
We offer a few epoxy based patches which could be used to resurface an area as well.
http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-repair/hd-110-epoxy-concrete-patch.html
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