Epoxy details question

[hblock72]

I'm about to start the prep work to epoxy my garage slab. I think I've got the basics down but had a couple of questions for the experts here. (plan to use Devoe coating)

1) I plan to stop the coating at the edge or just under the garage doors so none is exposed outside. I've read many use duct tape to do this. Is one strip enough or does the tape need to be built up in multiple layers? Also, when do you take it off? Do you have to worry about it bleading under the tape? Can the epoxy be cut with a razor knife later?

2) I have a saw cut I plan to fill prior to coating, but also have one small hairline crack about 3-4 feet long I'll also need to fill. Can I fill the small crack as is, or do I need to grind it out a little bit? If so, what tool to grind it out?

3)How do you protect door jambs/molding that are already in place? Duct tape again? When to peel off?

I'll be stopping by the ICI store next week to pick up supplies and will also ask for their recommendations, but like to be informed before I get there. Thanks.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

1. Remove tape when coating gets tacky and will not run.
2. Grind crack with an angle grinder , we call this routing. Fill with "epoxy filler".
( we have some on our site).
3. Use painters tape for these, duct tape will be over-kill and hard to remove.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

1. Remove tape when coating gets tacky and will not run. Press it down hard along the edge.,. One layer. You can scrape it prior to full cure, after that good luck.
2. Grind crack with an angle grinder , we call this routing. Fill with "epoxy filler".
( we have some on our site).
3. Use painters tape for these, duct tape will be over-kill and hard to remove.


sorry for the duplication, computer is sticky tonight

 

[Bad Idea]

1. After you press the tape down rub back and forth over the edge closest to the epoxy. That will get the adhesive to seal well and help minimize bleed under the tape edge.

3. Use masking tape or painters tape on baseboards and you can pre-cut where you want to pull the tape off of. It is usually easiest to pull tape when the coating is wet. So if you apply your tape with breaks pre-cut (after the first slab for example), you can finish roll, apply your flakes and then pull the tape and move on to the next section without missing a beat and without having to walk back on your nicely rolled section.

 

[Black Moon]

I always use painters tape and it never bleeds. Press it down good. Use it for all taping.

If the crack is a hairline epoxy will fill it. You can also paint it (lightly) first to seal it off then paint the entire floor. If its too wide use polyurethane caulk. Trowel it in to push it down into the crack then scrape the remainder off with a razor blade scraper. The 4" scrapers work best.

If you want buy a set of spiked shoes that strap onto your shoes. They are like golf shoes but the spikes are sharper. They're about $25 and you can walk over a wet floor and the holes close back in. I bought mine at Pittsburgh paint/ PPG. If you haven't bought the epoxy yet theirs is awesome. 100 times better than you will find at HD or Lowe's. It's about $90 per gallon but you get a gallon of hardener with it. Comes in several colors. Their clear is a good product as well. They don't sell flakes but you can buy them (cheap) in tons of different colors online.

Just my opinion but my company does this as one of my services.

 

[hblock72]

Thanks for all the tips.

Legacy: Will a regular abrassive disk on a 4" grinder work to route the hairline crack?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

yep, that should be fine. Make sure you wear goggles. Your epoxy might fill it, but if it doesn't you will feel bad.
Do it once, do it right. HooRAHH!!

 

[hblock72]

Great, thanks for the tips.