Epoxy Floor and Contraction joints

[elite1]

Hi Everyone,

I plan on refinishing my 4 car garage floor with the Rustoleum Metallic floor finish.

I would like to fill in the current Contraction joints if possible. Concrete was poured 10 years ago.

-What method should be used to fill the contraction joint in to create a clean single slab appearance without compromising the epoxy finish?

-I also have some raised expansion board in some corners. SHould this be pounded down and filled with Sika SL?

-What are most doing with the foundation slab prior to the wall?

- Any other recommendations?

Thanks for all input!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

The perimeter joints can be filled with a product like Sika SL.
However, areas that will receive traffic should be filled with something hard yet flexible.
This our offering:

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/crack-joint-products/legacys-gel-crack-filler.html

 

[elite1]

The perimeter joints can be filled with a product like Sika SL.
However, areas that will receive traffic should be filled with something hard yet flexible.
This our offering:

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/crack-joint-products/legacys-gel-crack-filler.html

Thanks for the quick response!

Do you recommend using the foam filler under this product? Also, what length of time is needed prior to sanding?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

You can, to take up some of the void. Leave at least 1/4" from the top for the product.
It can be ground after 24 hours. Some tape off the joint and skip the grinding.

 

[elite1]

Great Advice! Thank you. Is this a direct only product?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Correct. Delivered via Fedex to your door in approx. 4-5 days.

 

[elite1]

I think i may end up coating the side cement with White or Gray.

My opinion, I don't think the floor should should follow the wall. Especially when the floor has a metallic finish.

 

[elite1]

Lots of prep work over the past two days. Used a Grinder cutoff disc to cut the joint wood off.

Also repaired all wall holes for prior owner.

 

[elite1]

Finally finished but, frustrated.

-Spent a lot of time with Prep work. Rented floor sander, filled joints and diamond ground them flush.

-presoaked and etched. Pressure washed clean and let dry for 24 hours.

-Ended up with cement gassing causing bubbles. Tried to roll over them as the epoxy set but, they always came back. I painted a thin film aside to see if i was applying a to thick of coat, Nope, same issue.

- Thicker application had less gassing and completely covered the underlying cement color. Used 6 boxes for 400 Sq Ft., not bad for a $700 excluding everything else, rental, Joint filler etc.

 

[elite1]

Floor looks good but, collects dust easily. Giving it a week before i make my mind to fix and keep or, replace with something else. Bubble edges are sharp regardless.

 

[elite1]

Left two windows open in my Daily Driver overnight. Epoxy smell soaked inside the interior.

Floor looks cool. Does racedeck flooring emit the same smell? Its all plastic right? The vapors I experience today, may be coming from the freshly laid floor and may disappear with time.

 

[elite1]

Smell disappeared within a day or two.

Bought a new car this past weekend and needed to wax it. The shiny reflective floor blinded me for the rear end of the wax job.

I also inquired to Rustolem on the coating. They will send me a replacement coating for the bubble situation. I'll need to provide a receipt from Home Depot.

While waxing my new car, I didn't wear shoes and my feet/ legs experienced some of the roughness that the floor had to offer. I'm not one to complain but, this is just annoying.!

Squeegeeing the water out was effortless though.

Thanks for listening. Happy to hear if you care.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Did you use a primer?
Any coating system worth it's salt offers a primer and will help prevent what you experienced (bubbling from porosity).

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, agree, use of a primer is always best and greatly helps to eliminate problems.

 

[elite1]

This probably great advice! I did not use primer and if primer would help with sealing the slab prior to coating, i would only imagine it preventing the bubbling that sporadically appeared.

Did you use a primer?
Any coating system worth it's salt offers a primer and will help prevent what you experienced (bubbling from porosity).

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

This probably great advice! I did not use primer and if primer would help with sealing the slab prior to coating, i would only imagine it preventing the bubbling that sporadically appeared.

EXACTLY!!

 

[topcok88]

So just for future reference for other on the GJ board. Since he appears to have adequately applied the finish and has only experienced slight bubbling, can he apply a new finish over this epoxy base? Would a person re-sand the existing finish to promote adhesion? Or is complete re-grinding, primer, and topcoat required?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If down tight , can be sanded and recoated.

 

[elite1]

So just for future reference for other on the GJ board. Since he appears to have adequately applied the finish and has only experienced slight bubbling, can he apply a new finish over this epoxy base? Would a person re-sand the existing finish to promote adhesion? Or is complete re-grinding, primer, and topcoat required?

Hi Topcok88,

Rustoleum recommended sanding down the sharp areas where the bubbles occurred. Once flush, recoat.

I was working on the floor today changing some rotors and pads. I pressure wash the wheel wells when I do this and the floor was a little slippery. When I recoat, I'll throw some of the anti slip in.