Epoxy Floor Choice / give me your input!

[RickP330]

Hello All,
My friend referred me to this site and it’s awesome! Found allot of great stuff on here. First off – I guess I’m a garage junkie so I should fit right in. I only have a small 1 ½ car garage, but I’ll make it trick - as it’s all I can afford right now.

I just gutted the entire thing, re-sheet rocked the ceiling (installed a folding attic ladder) and should be painting this weekend. I’ll start a “my garage” thread soon and post some pics – I promise. But for now I need to order some floor paint. From what I’ve learned on my own and read on this site I think I narrowed it down to the following two products.
Before I pull the trigger can you tell me if you think I’m headed the wrong way or which one you prefer? Even if I didn’t list it please let me know your recommendations.

http://www.epoxy-coat.com/index.html

www.concrete-floor-coatings.com

Regards,
Rick

 

[RickP330]

Gang,
Originally I was just going get the Rustolium kit at the local Home Deep Load, but I thought I’d search for something more high performance. I used a Rustolium product 10-15 years ago in my last garage and it held up respectably considering I dragged engine blocks over it and abused it in every way possible, but that was before the “flake” kits were popular and the product I used looked more industrial then what I see now (read I don’t trust it).

Also on a side note my Ceiling will be White and the walls beige (it’s not too late to change that) – what color do you think I should use on the floor? I saw a matching Beige color and thought that might look better then the traditional gray. But would it look weird with the floor and walls the same color?

Regards,
Rick

 

[snorvet]

I recomend epoxy-coat. mine has been down one year and it looks about the same as when I put it down. I did have about 5 quarter sized spots that didnt cure that had to be touched up. Epoxy-Coat sent me a touch up kit to fix them.

I didnt like the plastic mixer that came with the kit. I used a drywall mixing bit. I put down flakes a little thick so I added a coat of Sherwin-Williams clear. I may have used the wrong clear since there is a faint yellowing where tires drive in. I'm going to clean it with a power scrubber and see what happens.

more info here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3985

 

[Floorguy]

Hello All,
My friend referred me to this site and it’s awesome! Found allot of great stuff on here. First off – I guess I’m a garage junkie so I should fit right in. I only have a small 1 ½ car garage, but I’ll make it trick - as it’s all I can afford right now.

I just gutted the entire thing, re-sheet rocked the ceiling (installed a folding attic ladder) and should be painting this weekend. I’ll start a “my garage” thread soon and post some pics – I promise. But for now I need to order some floor paint. From what I’ve learned on my own and read on this site I think I narrowed it down to the following two products.
Before I pull the trigger can you tell me if you think I’m headed the wrong way or which one you prefer? Even if I didn’t list it please let me know your recommendations.

http://www.epoxy-coat.com/index.html

www.concrete-floor-coatings.com

Regards,
Rick

I do floors for a living and suggest using a 100% solid. It builds better and is a higher quality product. When I was getting started years ago I found a site called epoxy.com that was very usefull. Way too much data to comprehend at once but certainly there for the reference if desired. Check it out. I have not affiliation with them just think it is a good site.

I would also highly suggest a urethane topcoat as it will protect better and make the floor last much longer while looking good.

my $.02 worth

Don

 

[Jason B]

You should consider this as well, and will cost about the same for your size garage:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8016&highlight

http://www.slk32.com/pages/garage/Garage2/garage2.html

http://www.schnellauto.com/images/vct.pdf

 

[RickP330]

You should consider this as well, and will cost about the same for your size garage:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8016&highlight

http://www.slk32.com/pages/garage/Garage2/garage2.html

http://www.schnellauto.com/images/vct.pdf

Jason,
Thanks for the feedback; I considered the tiles, but for reasons other then money I decided I wanted an epoxy floor. However, they do look great. And those were some good resources thanks!

Rick

ps, I believe it will be easier to just apply the epoxy paint, with the tiles there is allot more preperation and work it seems. With the paint I will just degrease, etch and paint.... Hopefully

 

[RickP330]

Don,
I am with you on the 100% solids. That appears to be the way to go. I know you prefer the Durall product, they recommend a top coat with that? I know the epoxy coat seems to advocate against it. Plus they say it only needs one coat. Is one coat enough?
Rick

 

[RickP330]

I put down flakes a little thick so I added a coat of Sherwin-Williams clear. I may have used the wrong clear since there is a faint yellowing where tires drive in. I'm going to clean it with a power scrubber and see what happens.
QUOTE]

Snorvet,
What did Epoxy coat say about the clear coat? It says on there website not to apply one I think.
Rick

 

[Floorguy]

Don,
I am with you on the 100% solids. That appears to be the way to go. I know you prefer the Durall product, they recommend a top coat with that? I know the epoxy coat seems to advocate against it. Plus they say it only needs one coat. Is one coat enough?
Rick

Actually I use Valspar commercial products not the Durall. I do a primer coat, 2 coats of clear epoxy, 1st to broadcast the flake into, then the next to seal them in, and a urethane on top of that for UV and chemical resistanace. I prefer the total coverage with the flakes instead of the random. It is a personal preference for sure.

If you are doing a non flake floor I would still suggest 2 and a urethane top coat. It will last much longer and look better also.

Don

 

[Jason B]

ps, I believe it will be easier to just apply the epoxy paint, with the tiles there is allot more preperation and work it seems. With the paint I will just degrease, etch and paint.... Hopefully

I've been investigating this and some so more prep than others, but prep is no different that epoxy. The problem with epoxy is you have to have it 100% clean for it to stick. I had it professionally done in my current house 2 years ago, and not it's starting to peel just yesterday in one spot. I keep hearing, after 3 years or so it could peel.

 

[RickP330]

I've been investigating this and some so more prep than others, but prep is no different that epoxy. The problem with epoxy is you have to have it 100% clean for it to stick. I had it professionally done in my current house 2 years ago, and not it's starting to peel just yesterday in one spot. I keep hearing, after 3 years or so it could peel.

Jason, Tell you what; I'll take a second look at the tiles. It's just wherever I had tiles in my house they always stuck really poorly. Are those self stick type?
Rick

 

[RickP330]

Actually I use Valspar commercial products not the Durall. I do a primer coat, 2 coats of clear epoxy, 1st to broadcast the flake into, then the next to seal them in, and a urethane on top of that for UV and chemical resistanace. I prefer the total coverage with the flakes instead of the random. It is a personal preference for sure.

If you are doing a non flake floor I would still suggest 2 and a urethane top coat. It will last much longer and look better also.

Don

Don,
Is that the same stuff you can get at Lowes? Where do you get your materials from? I've seen some of your pics and it looks awsome.
Rick

Hey - I've been checking out your shot blasting posts, pretty cool. My floor is far from being as smooth as the floors in your pictures. I'll try to get a close up shot of clean area to post in my rebuild thread - but it's a "broom" finish at best. And there are some high spots where it looks like the concrete piled up a little. Is there anything I can / should do before prepping it for paint?
RP

 

[Jason B]

Jason, Tell you what; I'll take a second look at the tiles. It's just wherever I had tiles in my house they always stuck really poorly. Are those self stick type?
Rick

No, you buy the same brand adhesive as the tiles, Armstrong. Didn't know there was a self stick.

 

[snorvet]

I put down flakes a little thick so I added a coat of Sherwin-Williams clear. I may have used the wrong clear since there is a faint yellowing where tires drive in. I'm going to clean it with a power scrubber and see what happens.
QUOTE]

Snorvet,
What did Epoxy coat say about the clear coat? It says on there website not to apply one I think.
Rick

I vaguely remembered that the lady I talked to recommended against it, but she wasnt too convincing.

 

[RickP330]

Actually I use Valspar commercial products not the Durall. I do a primer coat, 2 coats of clear epoxy, 1st to broadcast the flake into, then the next to seal them in, and a urethane on top of that for UV and chemical resistanace. I prefer the total coverage with the flakes instead of the random. It is a personal preference for sure.

If you are doing a non flake floor I would still suggest 2 and a urethane top coat. It will last much longer and look better also.

Don

Hey Don,
Are those the same products I can get at Lowes? What do you use for a pimer coat? Not the Epoxy I presume.
Rick

 

[Floorguy]

Hey Don,
Are those the same products I can get at Lowes? What do you use for a pimer coat? Not the Epoxy I presume.
Rick

No, they are not the same products you can get at Lowes. Valspar has recently jumped on the DIY market bandwagon and started to offer this product. I have not experince with it and have not ready any of the specs on it. I will try and hit a Lowes in the next few days as see what it is all about.

I get my products directly from Valspar Federal Flooring out of Chicago. I do not think they will sell to DIYers but you could certainly give it a try.

http://www.valsparflooring.com/valsparflooring/p3_epoxies.jsp

If you want specifics PM me and I will get back at you.

 

[69lkmno]

One coat of epoxy paint is good enough as long as you apply generously, very generously and you will not need any other coats or sealer. It will be very shiny for a long time. I've had mine for 18 months now and still happy with my floor. Check out my links below:

 

[RickP330]

No, they are not the same products you can get at Lowes. Valspar has recently jumped on the DIY market bandwagon and started to offer this product. I have not experince with it and have not ready any of the specs on it. I will try and hit a Lowes in the next few days as see what it is all about.

I get my products directly from Valspar Federal Flooring out of Chicago. I do not think they will sell to DIYers but you could certainly give it a try.

http://www.valsparflooring.com/valsparflooring/p3_epoxies.jsp

If you want specifics PM me and I will get back at you.

Don,
Will do, thanks for the links.
Rick

 

[RickP330]

One coat of epoxy paint is good enough as long as you apply generously, very generously and you will not need any other coats or sealer. It will be very shiny for a long time. I've had mine for 18 months now and still happy with my floor. Check out my links below:

Wow,
That's great (your floor). This is one of the products I am closely considering. I think wichever way I wind up going it should come out good. These products look like I am on the right track. Thanks guys.
Rick

 

[RickP330]

Hello All,
Well I am getting close - I have to make a decision soon. I really like the write up Floorguy did in this forum. I think I'm going to try his method. Here are some pics of my floor before. It's rough and you can see there is allot of debris / build up on it as well.

Apparently the roughness is of no consequence. I was concerned with this because I am used to painting cars and such and know how important a smooth surface is to start. But I have to assume these epoxies are self leveling? I sure hope so - hope to get a smooth finish out of it.

To prepare it mechanically, I just need to scrape up the debris, but I hear a belt sander works well with 40 / 50 grit paper so I may give that a try.

Rick

 

[bmwpower]

Man, that looks rough. Epoxy should fill that in...eventually. Grind it down, etc. Make sure you get all the loose stuff off and apply a bunch of coats.

So all this talk of 100% solids.... which stuff is 100% solids?

 

[Floorguy]

Hello All,
Well I am getting close - I have to make a decision soon. I really like the write up Floorguy did in this forum. I think I'm going to try his method. Here are some pics of my floor before. It's rough and you can see there is allot of debris / build up on it as well.

Apparently the roughness is of no consequence. I was concerned with this because I am used to painting cars and such and know how important a smooth surface is to start. But I have to assume these epoxies are self leveling? I sure hope so - hope to get a smooth finish out of it.

To prepare it mechanically, I just need to scrape up the debris, but I hear a belt sander works well with 40 / 50 grit paper so I may give that a try.

Rick

Rick,

Again, the way I do a floor is to broadcast flakes into the 2nd coat of epoxy after the primer. When I say broadcast flakes I mean totally cover the entire floor until rejection. Then wait 12 hours (with my epoxy) and then blow the loose flake into a corner and pick it up for use on the next floor. Scrape the flake in a cross hatch pattern to knockdown any vertically standing flake then blow blow blow until there is no loose flakes left. coat with a clear epoxy, then urethane. The finished floor will have a texture like a rough orange when completed. This helps battle the slick problem as it has some texture. Grind any loose spot or areas with holes or crack and fill with filler and grind level. The texture also helps hide and ugly spots in the concrete instead of amplifying them like a solid color or random flake. Use a good chemical resistant squeege to spread the goo then backroll in a crosshatch pattern to even the coat.

The only down side to this type of floor is if you drop a small part it is difficult to find. You must lay on the floor to see it.

You will use alot of product if you are going to apply to that rough surface especially the first coat or 2. Plan on having lots of product on hand. You will also use lots of product on the epoxy coat that goes on over the flake, lots of peaks and valleys.

This type of floor is not for eveyone. If you like the look then it does a great job of hiding dirt, leaves, dog hair etc.

The attached picture shows the texture at the top of the photo if you can see it in the small image. I can send you a large image if you would like via email.

I can help you with flake if you are having a hard time finding it at a reasonable cost that is if I have the color you like.

 

[RickP330]

I can help you with flake if you are having a hard time finding it at a reasonable cost that is if I have the color you like.

Don,
I Found a site "Concrete Solutions" that sells over the web. There system seems to be very similar to what you are describing (100% solids etc.) (no luck with the other yet). Flakes there are priced @ $189.00 per 55lb box. If you have a better source I'd love to hear it. Sounds like I'll owe you nice "care package" by the time I'm done

BTW, that finish is EXACTLY what I am looking for. Hope it comes out half as nice.

Regards,
Rick

 

[RickP330]

Don,
I also found vinyl chips at Durall concrete-floor-coatings.com I don’t have pricing yet, but they have a large selection of colors as well as “stripped chips”. I’m afraid if I order the chips and clear epoxy it might not work they way you have gotten it to.
I guess my question is this, are all the chips the same size, or can I order just any vinyl chips I find? They also have something called quartz aggregate. I assume that is for anti slip. If you can help that would be great. I’d like to get products on order this week.

Regards,
Rick

 

[Tex Arcana]

Actually I use Valspar commercial products not the Durall. I do a primer coat, 2 coats of clear epoxy, 1st to broadcast the flake into, then the next to seal them in, and a urethane on top of that for UV and chemical resistanace. I prefer the total coverage with the flakes instead of the random. It is a personal preference for sure.

If you are doing a non flake floor I would still suggest 2 and a urethane top coat. It will last much longer and look better also.

Don

Do you think it would be possible to post up a how-to using the products you use, including approximate cost, tools needed, and preparation steps? That would be most helpful!

Also, what do you do about cracks in the concrete?

 

[RickP330]

Do you think it would be possible to post up a how-to using the products you use, including approximate cost, tools needed, and preparation steps? That would be most helpful!

Also, what do you do about cracks in the concrete?

I plan on doing this, I was going to do it in this thread, but Perhaps a start a new one to keep it clean. After I order materials I'll get it going.
Rick

PS, It doesn't appear that I have any cracks, but I believe you need to open them with a dimond saw and fill them.
RP

 

[Tex Arcana]

Another question for Floorguy:

When it comes to flakes, what's the point if they make doing the work difficult, esp. with dropped parts and such? And does that heavy orange-peel cause problems for rolling tools? Lastly, can one toss some non-slip grit into the topcoat?

Thanks for your patience, man.

 

[Rex Ruby]

Stay away from U COAT IT

 

[Floorguy]

I certainly can do a step by step for my process when I have the time. The reason for the flake from my perspective is that is adds a little texture, but more importantly it helps hide the normal dirt, leaves, dog hair stuff that is found in most garages. It is still there but just plays games with the eyes with the multicolored flakes. That way you don'thave to spend too much time making it look good. A solid color is cool but it just takes a little more work to keep it nice looking.

Antislip can be tossed or mixed into the topcoat if desired.

Cracks are ground larger with a diamond crack chaser blade, filled wtih a quick cure epoxy, then ground back down level when dry.

Shotblasting uncovers more cracks than acid etching obviously.

hope this helps