Epoxy floor cleaning problems

[B&H]

About 5 years ago, I had the concrete floors at my auto repair shop replaced, radiant floor heat installed and an epoxy coating applied. As the years have gone by, I can't seem to get it clean anymore. I have been using Super Clean by Castol, and once or twice a year I would use Muriatic acid to get things really clean.

What has happened is that the Muriatic acid doesn't seem to be as effective (nor does the Super Clean), and it doesn't take long to look bad.

I have tried some powdered stuff and some other liquid products, with no better results. I'm starting to think the Muriactic acid was a bad idea.

This summer, we had an addition put on the shop and had Stonhard epoxy system installed in the new section. It is a MUCH better product than the stuff that was used in the original section, and they advised us NOT to use Muriatic acid for cleaning. They have their own cleaning products, and the one they recommend is very similar to Super Clean, according to the MSDS sheets.

While I'd like to eventually redo the old section with Stonhard, I've got to "heal-up" a bit first, but in the mean time, I'd like to be able to clean the old epoxy better. Any suggestions?

 

[j-guenth]

To get the floor looking like new you need a floor scrubber. When we moved into our new maintenance facility the floors were bright after a few cleanings with a mop and solvent the floors weren't as bright. We purchased a floor scrubber and used the same solvent the floors came back to the original brightness. After about 10 years we resurfaced one bay a year.

 

[Shea]

I have tried some powdered stuff and some other liquid products, with no better results. I'm starting to think the Muriactic acid was a bad idea.

One of the more common mistakes that people make regarding muriatic acid is thinking that it is a cleaner. Without going into the various reasons for this - it is not. In fact, it will not have any affect on an epoxy floor.

This summer, we had an addition put on the shop and had Stonhard epoxy system installed in the new section. It is a MUCH better product than the stuff that was used in the original section, and they advised us NOT to use Muriatic acid for cleaning. They have their own cleaning products, and the one they recommend is very similar to Super Clean, according to the MSDS sheets.

Based on this statement and not knowing what kind of epoxy system you had installed, I'm guessing that you have dirt and grease that has worked itself into the layer of your top coat. When a sealer such as epoxy cures, it creates a cross linking pattern that gives the sealer strength as well as density. The greater the cross linking, the stronger and more dense the sealer will be. A lesser quality coating will have less cross linking thus creating a greater chance for grease and oils to work its way into the top layer.

Regular cleaning maintenance for an auto shop helps to alleviate this, but if you were only doing a good cleaning every once in a while, the time between cleaning may have allowed for the contaminants to work their way in. (I'm only speculating about your cleaning schedule )

As the previous post stated, I would start with a floor buffer with scrubbing pad and a good degreaser. It may dull the shine of the floor but you will have a good chance of it coming clean. If it doesn't, then the next step would be to use a sanding pad with the floor buffer to remove a microscopic layer from the top of your coating along with the embedded dirt.

If your base coat has not chipped or peeled after 5 years in an auto shop, I would just re-coat with a higher quality top coat such as polyurethane after you get it clean. Just consult with the manufacturer for compatibility first.

 

[B&H]

Well, I think I'll rent a floor scrubber and see now that works. The old epoxy isn't peeling, but it sure does chip easy and has since day 1. Not sure of the manufacturer. Thanks!

 

[tncatadjuster]

When a sealer such as epoxy cures, it creates a cross linking pattern that gives the sealer strength as well as density. The greater the cross linking, the stronger and more dense the sealer will be. A lesser quality coating will have less cross linking thus creating a greater chance for grease and oils to work its way into the top layer.

broad stroke chemistry?

 

[Shea]

broad stroke chemistry?

Yes - more or less. We've found in our experience that it's usually lesser quality epoxy floors such as the OP stated he had, that are more susceptible to cleaning problems when used in a professional environment. Many times it can be aggravated due to a floor suffering from lack of maintenance or poor cleaning practices.

The higher quality epoxy, polyurethane and especially polyurea floors do have a much higher density of crosslinking which contributes highly to stain resistance from grease, dirt and oils.

 

[tncatadjuster]

Well all-righty then.....

 

[Highperformancesystems]

One of the more common mistakes that people make regarding muriatic acid is thinking that it is a cleaner. Without going into the various reasons for this - it is not. In fact, it will not have any affect on an epoxy floor.



Based on this statement and not knowing what kind of epoxy system you had installed, I'm guessing that you have dirt and grease that has worked itself into the layer of your top coat. When a sealer such as epoxy cures, it creates a cross linking pattern that gives the sealer strength as well as density. The greater the cross linking, the stronger and more dense the sealer will be. A lesser quality coating will have less cross linking thus creating a greater chance for grease and oils to work its way into the top layer.

Regular cleaning maintenance for an auto shop helps to alleviate this, but if you were only doing a good cleaning every once in a while, the time between cleaning may have allowed for the contaminants to work their way in. (I'm only speculating about your cleaning schedule )

As the previous post stated, I would start with a floor buffer with scrubbing pad and a good degreaser. It may dull the shine of the floor but you will have a good chance of it coming clean. If it doesn't, then the next step would be to use a sanding pad with the floor buffer to remove a microscopic layer from the top of your coating along with the embedded dirt.

If your base coat has not chipped or peeled after 5 years in an auto shop, I would just re-coat with a higher quality top coat such as polyurethane after you get it clean. Just consult with the manufacturer for compatibility first.

I like your style Shea. Good advice