Epoxy Floor Paint

[Hartwa]

Fellas.... I've done two go rounds with the Rust-Oleum Epoxy paint on my garage floor. Each time it's lasted about 5 years before needing to be recoated.

I am looking for something that is more permanent that will last a little longer. I see that the Sherwin-Williams armorseal comes recommended and I plan to put that down. Before I do I'm wondering how I should prepare the existing floor I certainly don't want to strip it. would it be okay to sand it to create some tooth and just apply the top coat?

In the past I just scraped off the loose stuff and applied the base coat I'm thinking maybe I should have sanded it after each recoat maybe it would have lasted a little longer....thoughts?

Thanks for any advice....

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If the existing coating is down tight...
you can sand, solvent wipe and apply.

However, if that first coat is peely and suspect you are building a house on a weak foundation.

 

[JStar4]

I would grind it just so you know its done right and will last a really long time instead of redoing it every few years.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Agree with above, any coating can only stick to what is under it, so if yours is flaking or coming up, best to grind it off. If it's missing in spots, and what is left is well adhered, then sand or scuff it up, wipe down with denatured alcohol and coat.

But..make sure to prime it as the coated areas will have different absorption rates than the uncoated and you will have significant sheen differences unless you prime to even this problem out. We offer matching epoxy primers for our 100% solids epoxy garage floor systems for exactly this reason.

 

[Hartwa]

Thanks guys...hoping this will be the last time I do this.

Local SW store has the armorseal for 150 a gallon that is actually 2 gallons total A&B. I will need to double that. ....sounds reasonable.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Fellas.... I've done two go rounds with the Rust-Oleum Epoxy paint on my garage floor. Each time it's lasted about 5 years before needing to be recoated.

I am looking for something that is more permanent that will last a little longer. I see that the Sherwin-Williams armorseal comes recommended and I plan to put that down. Before I do I'm wondering how I should prepare the existing floor I certainly don't want to strip it. would it be okay to sand it to create some tooth and just apply the top coat?

In the past I just scraped off the loose stuff and applied the base coat I'm thinking maybe I should have sanded it after each recoat maybe it would have lasted a little longer....thoughts?

Thanks for any advice....

The best way to do it is to remove the old material and grind the floor. Then prime, coat and top coat.

 

[Hartwa]

I called to rent a grinder and he said that a diamond wheel would not work on epoxy...it would only get gummed up. What kind of grinding wheel do you recommend?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If this is an older Edco machine ask for strip-serts.
If not, try and find the newer 9" Edco turbo grinder with the "dots".
That thing will chew through epoxy pretty good.

Lastly, that BigBox store material is not like the products we sell or even SW. It will go pretty quick and not give up much of a fight.

 

[JStar4]

PCD's will eat it up real quick!

 

[Hartwa]

I rented a floor stripper today for about 200 bucks I also bought a cop diamond wheel that work good initially. When I'm done with the stripper should I touch the entire floor with the diamond wheel to ensure that I'm down to clean concrete?

 

[Garage Flooring]

I rented a floor stripper today for about 200 bucks I also bought a cop diamond wheel that work good initially. When I'm done with the stripper should I touch the entire floor with the diamond wheel to ensure that I'm down to clean concrete?

More than clean. Clean & Profiled

 

[Hartwa]

So are you saying that the strip shirt will be good enough. I did about one-quarter of the garage with the cupped diamond wheel so that is stripped and ground into the concrete. I was thinking that the strip search would just strip the epoxy off and not really grind into the concrete

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

So are you saying that the strip shirt will be good enough. I did about one-quarter of the garage with the cupped diamond wheel so that is stripped and ground into the concrete. I was thinking that the strip search would just strip the epoxy off and not really grind into the concrete

They strip and prep.

 

[Hartwa]

But half done...some spots are not coming off though...I keep going over and over them and they slowly chip away. It isn't hard to run the machine just takes time.

 

[ard]

Out of curiosity which Rustoleum? I used their 6500 system on the workshop about 15 years ago, still there. (Welding take a toll, but no signs of failure.). Wondering why you are only getting 5...

 

[katilicous]

Bad prep

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Hartwa]

I am not sure...I remember it was rustoleum and it had a picture of a sweet car on a perfect garage floor....this last time it was the clear coat that was coming up. I am sure I based coated let it dry and vlear coated within 24hrs. I usually follow the direction.

The floor had been strip serted and now diamond ground...few spots still remain....thinking I will scholarship those and paint saturday. Some pics attached...let me know what you think.

 

[Hartwa]

Uhhg....scholarship = alcohol wipe. Sick this autocorrect.

 

[ard]

I am not sure...I remember it was rustoleum and it had a picture of a sweet car on a perfect garage floor....

Ah, sounds like a consumer grade deal.


Oh, each of your posts has an "edit" button- you can correct your posts!

 

[Hartwa]

Just watched a video from the Idaho painter.... should I apply 2 Coates before clear coating? He also reduces the first coat.

 

[Hartwa]

I am concerned that my local sw store rep is confused about what I put down.

He quoted a armor seal hs for basecoat, flake color then rexthane. I told him I was going off a spec sheet from sw that said armor seal 1000 hs reduced with a thinner, then 2 coats armor seal hs polyurethane floor enanel.

When i said that he said the hs would be my clearcoat...wouldn't I still need the clearcoat (rexthane)?

 

[ard]

Just watched a video from the Idaho painter.... should I apply 2 Coates before clear coating? He also reduces the first coat.

I'm sure others will comment, but Ill inject two cents...

Epoxy is unlike any other 'paint'. It cures. It does not 'dry'.

With many paints, thinning or reducing is used to lower the viscosity to allow it to penetrate, creating a better bond- then as it DRIES- the coating is established.

With epoxy it CURES, as a chemical reaction- the evaporation of solvents (aka reducing agents) is (semi) independent of the curing. You can get a floor that cures, chemically- but still has trapped solvent. It will be soft, mush and smell. It will be an inferior coating.

Each epoxy mfg will have specs on allowable reduction. I would ONLY reduce for application reasons. (I actually do epoxy spraying, rarely floors.) In order to increase penetration into the substrate, many will offer a primer- that penetrates but then lets the epoxy bind to it's upper surface.

I think.

 

[ard]

I am concerned that my local sw store rep is confused about what I put down.

He quoted a armor seal hs for basecoat, flake color then rexthane. I told him I was going off a spec sheet from sw that said armor seal 1000 hs reduced with a thinner, then 2 coats armor seal hs polyurethane floor enanel.

When i said that he said the hs would be my clearcoat...wouldn't I still need the clearcoat (rexthane)?

I have found that few SW counter people know WTF they are talking about. Is this a regular store or a professional/commercial coatings store? (Here in CA, local stores cannot sell the industrial coatings. There is ONE store in Sacramento, and even then I need to talk with their specialist for in depth guidance.)

Since they dont sell much of this, they just look at the SW website and parrot that content.


Each SW coating has a code, like CC-F70, CC-F65, CC-F2A, etc. Use that along with names, it will let you find spec sheets (and discuss it here) with better specificity.

Finally armor seal hs is a single component urethane- NOT AN EPOXY.

rexthane is a single component, urethane- not a two part chemically cured urethane.

At least thats what Im seeing....

 

[Hartwa]

I am thinking i might go with the tile clad for base coat, an armorseal Hs for top coat. The numbers are:

Tileclad
B62V & B60VZ70

Armorseal HS
B65-220
B65V220

there is YouTube video " the Idaho painter" that I watched and this is what he used. He seems to do floors professionally. He did not say this is what he is using but this is what the cans looked like.

He also reduces the first coat for better penetration. I was going to order the reducer and do that.

 

[Hartwa]

Putting clear coat on tonight. My only concern is weather the epoxy will stick to the polyurethane caulk I used to fill the saw marks. I really wanted to fill them and that is all I could find locally.

 

[ard]

Putting clear coat on tonight. My only concern is weather the epoxy will stick to the polyurethane caulk I used to fill the saw marks. I really wanted to fill them and that is all I could find locally.

Wait, what?

You filled the cracks with some unknown 'polyurethane' caulk...then waited 5 hrs or a month? then did the epoxy???

and NOW, as you prepare for clearcoat you are wondering about the caulk?

 

[Hartwa]

I understand your point... the reason I did it was even if it peals up on the caulk line that's only three sixteenths of an inch it'll still be well bonded to the concrete.

I really wanted the saw lines sealed up so they don't collect dirt....I could have waited and caulked them after I was all done but either way I end up with the same thing.. that is if the paint doesn't hold on the caulk