Epoxy floor this weekend - am I missing anything?

[Red Leader]

Hey guys, I am finally going to be laying down my Epoxy-Coat floor. I thought it would probably be wise to check in with more experienced sources to just double check on some main points just to make sure I'm not missing out on anything. Okay here we go!

Concrete floor diamond ground (assuming I don't need the acid etch since I already ground the floor)

Cleaning the concrete with a stiff bristle brush, water and (dish soap? Baking soda? Nothing?)

Let dry at least 6 hours before coating.

Mix parts A and B in the correct proportions, for at least 3 min (most important step?)

Once mixed I have 15 minutes of working time.

Pour in corner/against wall, then squeegee out. Roll it all out with the paint roller. After about 10 min, back roll again, and then throw up chips/flakes.

After at least 16 hours have passed, throw down the clear coat.



I'll be doing all this X4 since my pad (2-car garage) is divided into 4 smaller pads.

I am going to be making some spike shoes to make things easier. I bought 8 rollers, so I can use a new roller for each coat and clear coat. I also have 8 paint sticks that I plan on copying the ratios levels so I won't have to guess once the first stick has epoxy covering it.

I am assuming I can re-use the squeegee if I wipe it off, as well as the mixing bucket, as long as the remnants harden over.


Am I missing anything? I should be anywhere from 60-70 degrees during the day, but it will be in the 30s-40s at night. The good news is that it should be clear with no moisture in the air.

Let me know if you guys have any more tips/suggestions/advice or would recommend any changes. I know the overnight temps aren't ideal, but this is my last chance to do this for the year and I need to do it or the epoxy will go bad.


Thanks guys for having my back!

-Dave/RL

 

[bdamico]

Rethink the time to dry after grinding and washing. A lot of discussion here lately on that. Maybe prep this weekend and apply next week or weekend. Then some people will post here that you should do a primer coat before epoxy. Search for bubbles and you'll see the discussions

 

[dcs Inc]

These are my recommendations:

Don't apply any water to the concrete. Use denatured alcohol to wipe up the fine dust. I use micro fiber pads and switch them out when they get full. Rags can work. If you have spiraled ground the concrete, that should have taken away the topical debris.

Check the humidity levels. I get them down at at least 75%. At 85% or higher you are playing with fire. (If it's high, get a dehumidifier). Check the air temp and humidity level. They should be at least 5 degrees apart.
Best to apply with the temps descending. Rising temps pull moisture out of the concrete. (Throw an electric heater in there to get the temp up before you start)
Acclimate the epoxy to room temperature. Warmer epoxy gets thinner but sets faster.
Once mixed, get it on the floor. It will flash (heat up) on you if left in a volume.
Pre wipe all your tools with denatured alcohol. New tools may have been coated with a thin coating of silicone and that's bad news for epoxy.

Have all your ducks in a row. I sell the spike shoes for $20.00 plus shipping. If you want to make your own make sure they are sturdy.

Any mixing buckets of just part A or just B will not set up. DO NOT contaminate A into B or B into A. Keep them separate until they go into the mix bucket.

Make sure you scrape the sidewalls and the bottom of the bucket with a good stir stick when mixing. Any unmixed epoxy that hits the floor will be forever sticky.

Cut off all air vents. Moving air brings in and kicks up dust.

Other than that, follow the directions of your product. Good luck!

 

[Bellini]

I just did mine last week and it turned out great... With that said I think my main concern is the concrete drying time....

I still think the acid wash won't hurt but whatever you do let the concrete dry for several days minimum as if there is moisture in the slab you will have nothing but problems.

Just my 2 cents

 

[Pcoghlan]

Best of luck. I too am fighting the incoming cool weather.

With it due to hit high 30s tonight I have all but decided to let it sit until the spring. My one comment would be to check your product to ensure the overnight lows are OK. Not sure how critical slab temperature is...

 

[Red Leader]

Guys,

Thanks for the thoughts. I like the idea of denatured alcohol - that makes things easy. Since the time I ground the floor, no oils or other contaminants have been on the floor, so it should be an easy wipe up.

Good call on wiping down the tools as well.

I am planning on doing the flooring with descending temperatures, so no worries there. Also, we are in a pretty dry climate, so the moisture is not a big of a concern as it might be otherwise. I've never had a moisture problem in the garage and the concrete is 19 years old and clean, so that's good.

I'll double check on the low temp limits but I think I remember hearing that it was okay. It won't get below freezing so that is the good news.

-Dave

 

[c7fx]

lots of posts on this but also make sure you have a shed resistant roller.
Measuring cups
I found small chunks in my epoxy so I filtered both a & b as I poured them into the bucket
don't worry about the time as much but it is good to have someone else helping with the mixing etc
Good luck

 

[dcs Inc]

+c7fx
Good call on the roller. Cheap rollers like to stay behind. Paper based cores are a big NO NO. Another little thing I like to do. Take painters blue tape and roll completely around the roller. Pull it off and you have "defuzzed" it. Use an epoxy roller please. there's nothing worse than using a cheap roller and everything goes well but you find a fuzzy finish.

c7fx, I have found when you stick your mixing stick into the "other" bucket also, it contaminates it and will create small little balls of clear epoxy. Your product should not have these when you open a new can up. I have had to strain my epoxies in class because I have several guys mixing it and sometimes one side or the other get contaminated.

Some epoxies will start to (gel) crystallize when they get below a certain temp. Just wrap the can/bucket with a heating blanket and warm it up. It will turn to liquid again. I have set small buckets in the oven (wife screams a bit when I do) to warm it.

 

[c7fx]

+c7fx

c7fx, I have found when you stick your mixing stick into the "other" bucket also, it contaminates it and will create small little balls of clear epoxy. Your product should not have these when you open a new can up. I have had to strain my epoxies in class because I have several guys mixing it and sometimes one side or the other get contaminated.

Some epoxies will start to (gel) crystallize when they get below a certain temp. Just wrap the can/bucket with a heating blanket and warm it up. It will turn to liquid again. I have set small buckets in the oven (wife screams a bit when I do) to warm it.

I never mixed or contaminated material. I opened the epoxy and noticed small bits in it. I measured in cups and poured into a bucket. Here is a picture of the debris I caught in the filter

 

[dcs Inc]

Yikes...... what can I say. Good catch and good solution. Can't respond to why or what as I don't use anything other than Elite Crete System products. Did the supplier have any ideas?

 

[c7fx]

nope no idea but I caught only after doing two squares in my garage. I figure the bumps will wear down. If I would have done the paint chips I would have never noticed it on the floor.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Here's an off-to-the-side suggestion. Find out what coating one side of a piece of wood would do to it, in case it causes a warp either toward or away from the side that's (maybe) absorbing epoxy. I think the wood pieces are going to look great -- and maybe your plan is not to epoxy them, but seal them on all six sides. But my worry is that over time they might develop a bend and pop up.

 

[Red Leader]

lots of posts on this but also make sure you have a shed resistant roller.
Measuring cups
I found small chunks in my epoxy so I filtered both a & b as I poured them into the bucket
don't worry about the time as much but it is good to have someone else helping with the mixing etc
Good luck

Okay! I'm going to check the rollers!


And great idea on de-fuzzing them. Last thing I want is hair from the roller coming off - especially if using a pink roller!!!

 

[Red Leader]

Here's an off-to-the-side suggestion. Find out what coating one side of a piece of wood would do to it, in case it causes a warp either toward or away from the side that's (maybe) absorbing epoxy. I think the wood pieces are going to look great -- and maybe your plan is not to epoxy them, but seal them on all six sides. But my worry is that over time they might develop a bend and pop up.

Jack,

Thanks for the suggestion. Here is what is going on with the wood. I am using wood filler strips to cover over the (ugly and cracked) control joints. That way I avoid the issue of epoxy cracking at the floor joints if the pads were to move. They are merely surface strips - less than 1/2" tall (except for one) and very flexible. They will be glued in place and weather sealed.

I like the idea of finishing them on all 6 sides. The good news is that Colorado is so dry the moisture has never been a problem, however I know that just because I don't see it doesn't mean its not there.

I'm looking forward to how it is going to turn out...but it will be a long 5 days.

-RL

 

[Familyof8kids]

Have you performed a moisture test? Understand you may not be using water but could still have upgas due to exterior moisture below slab events. A primer coat would slide those thoughts away and leave a firm base for your Epoxy-Coat.

Spike shoes for sure.
Mark your spare buckets first. 2:1 parts so easy to do with water on the kitchen table.
Use a high quality duct tape on any area you do not want epoxy to be.
Place tape on walls to mark your batch areas. I marked off 10x10 areas during my EC application.

You will worry big time but after it is over you will go "That was easy".

Have fun and make sure to post how it goes and pictures.

 

[GreggW30]

Thanks for the helpful tips. I am planning to install my own epoxy flooring this coming weekend in my garage. I definitely will need more help to do it, it sounds like. I thought it would be just like painting.

 

[Rowdy9]

Red Leader how did your floor turn out? I will be doing my epoxy-coat this weekend, any tips that you learned?

 

[CamarosRus]

I used WOOSTER brand Pro Doo Zee #642 18" 3/8 nap roller covers.

 

[Shea]

Just a thought.... You mentioned that the temps are in the 30's to 40's at night. Concrete can get cold soaked and hold cooler temps even though the air warms up during the day. Your garage floor doesn't get direct sunlight to warm it up. If you can, you might want to run a heater in the garage a couple nights before you do your coating so that the concrete temps don't stay low and stop the rate of the chemical reaction between the epoxy and the hardener. You could get blushing, discoloration and down-glossing if that happens. Keep in mind most epoxies will work with surface temps down to 50 - 55 degrees. Just check the label.

Good luck!