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Epoxy Floor - Value vs Quality

jastbird

New member
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
3
So I was all set to buy the big store brand "kits" when I came across this forum and all the great discussion held within! Also, All Garage Floors, which is a fantastic resource as well!

Problem is, I spent at least 4 hours yesterday evening and night researching and looking at all the different options and am no closer to knowing what to do! There are so many combinations of products, and some need a topcoat, some dont, some need a primer, etc...Im just confused now. So much so, that I am feeling resigned to just going with 2 kits of Rust-Oleum Professional EpoxyShield, with 2 more kits of Clear Coat over the top. Is this enough or to much? Should I do additional coats of either?

-- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...-Floor-Coating-Kit-Case-of-2-238467/203423624

-- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...VOC-Premium-Garage-Floor-Kit-292514/206495767

Steps:
1. Concrete Etch and Cleaner, allow to dry completely
2. Rust-Oleum Professional Epoxy Shield, allow 12 hours
3. Rust-Oleum Clear Coat


My garage is 750 sq ft. The use would be pretty average. I do mostly wood working, but also do oil changes, brakes, and other basic vehicle repair. Mainly, I just want to improve the look, durability, and ease of cleaning. I'd like to keep it around $400.

Thank you for reading, and please post any recommendations as well as if primer and topcoat are needed. Thank you all for your time.

Jason
 
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Hobbit

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May 23, 2011
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Location
Bama
My 2cents. Use only a 100% solids epoxy product which will likely cost you a minimum of $600-$700 to cover 750sf. I used Epoxy Coat with no top coat and it took all of 6 gallons/2 kits to cover my 700sf. Do not let the mixed part A & B sit in the bucket longer than recommended or it will start to solidify. You then have a mess and will likely be short a batch at the end.
 

kd3pc

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Joined
Aug 10, 2013
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3,630
Location
Northern Neck
Your budget is unrealistic for proper prep and material - DIY.

I would call the HD stuff too close to call in having enough material to complete the square footage you want to. Their estimates on coverage are way too generous.

I would speak with a couple of the vendors on this list and see what they see your needs are and what your budget can realistically do.
 

Hobbit

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Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
1,853
Location
Bama
One glossy light gray coat and if you prep the floor right you should not have any delamination issues. Prep, Prep, Prep and have at least one helper. Do not let the sun heat your slab at the garage door, likely the last batch you will do working outwardly. Combine a batch that sat a little too long in the bucket with the heated floor and you have lager clumps of epoxy to clean up. Get spiked shoes if you are going to be broadcasting flecks, if you try to do this on a budget it will show. Also get at least three rollers for this amount of space. The epoxy will dry somewhat on them as well which will diminish your quality of job after a few batches. Mix all of you part A in one bucket so the color will fully match. Buy extra buckets to mix your A & B batches in.
 

Supergumby5000

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Joined
Oct 20, 2016
Messages
178
Location
Nevada
Everyone on the forum is going to tell you not to use the big box store products and that you need to spend thousands to do it the 'right' way.

The big box store stuff will work fine for what you want to accomplish IF you take the time and effort to do proper prep. That goes for any coating or painting work. A product wont last unless you take the time to clean up that concrete floor prior to application.

It might not last as long as the spendy stuff. You may need to touch it up in 3, 5, 10 years depending on how well you put it down. But it will work.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
So I was all set to buy the big store brand "kits" when I came across this forum and all the great discussion held within! Also, All Garage Floors, which is a fantastic resource as well!

Problem is, I spent at least 4 hours yesterday evening and night researching and looking at all the different options and am no closer to knowing what to do! There are so many combinations of products, and some need a topcoat, some dont, some need a primer, etc...Im just confused now. So much so, that I am feeling resigned to just going with 2 kits of Rust-Oleum Professional EpoxyShield, with 2 more kits of Clear Coat over the top. Is this enough or to much? Should I do additional coats of either?

-- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...-Floor-Coating-Kit-Case-of-2-238467/203423624

-- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...VOC-Premium-Garage-Floor-Kit-292514/206495767

Steps:
1. Concrete Etch and Cleaner, allow to dry completely
2. Rust-Oleum Professional Epoxy Shield, allow 12 hours
3. Rust-Oleum Clear Coat


My garage is 750 sq ft. The use would be pretty average. I do mostly wood working, but also do oil changes, brakes, and other basic vehicle repair. Mainly, I just want to improve the look, durability, and ease of cleaning. I'd like to keep it around $400.

Thank you for reading, and please post any recommendations as well as if primer and topcoat are needed. Thank you all for your time.

Jason

Our DIY kits would run you about $875... More than double what you are looking to spend. Its probably not something you are going to buy, but I want you to look at the contents for context. That number is for a TC kit (top coat)

When you get this nailed down, you should have a primer, a high solids to 100% solids epoxy. Our DIY kit is our 100% solids resin with a little solvent added to the hardener side to make it roll better. You can buy less and get a thinner floor. You can buy more and get a thicker floor. But if you are spreading a gallon over a lot of area, it just means you are getting a super thin coating. Next, unless you are in CA you should have a high quality aliphatic tip coat. There should be some flake, some anti skid and some basic installation accessories.

If you just want a inexpensive coating, two coats of Rust Bullet will hold up better than most cheap epoxy but you are still over $500

Legacy, Armorpoxy, Epoxy Coat, there are a lot of GOOD systems out there. I would take my time and select a high quality product.
 
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FJ4FUN

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Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
626
Location
NorCal
“Thank you for reading, and please post any recommendations as well as if primer and topcoat are needed.”

Understanding that this may or may not apply to epoxy kits that are less than 100% solids epoxies but when it comes to 100% solids epoxy systems we at AlphaGarage are of the opinion that a quality primer always be used under a 100% solids epoxy body coat. Successful epoxy coating projects are all about achieving a solid and reliable concrete-to-coating bond line. Our BondTite 1101 primer is designed to achieve both a chemical bond and a physical bond to the substrate whereas, on it’s own, our Liquatile 1184 100% solids epoxy body coat may be too viscous to adequately soak into the porous concrete resulting in a potentially compromised physical bond.

If we had to choose between using a primer coat or a clear coat we would opt for the primer coat every time. You can always apply a clear coat or otherwise freshen up a worn epoxy body coat down the road but there’s only one way to insert a primer coat into a failed bond line and that’s to grind it up and start over…
 
OP
J

jastbird

New member
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
3
Thank you all for the helpful input. It has always been my philosophy to do things right the first time, so I probably shouldn't skimp here either!

I'm not opposed to increasing the budget, however, it probably means that I'll move it down the list of my projects for now. Its a new to us home, and quite a few things to do!

I'll keep researching and watching this forum and soon enough develop a good plan. Thanks again to everybody that has taken the time and commented so far.
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
Primer and a High Solids Epoxy are more than enough for most garages.
If you are making your living out there than perhaps a better system is appropriate.

Good luck!
 

Shea

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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,869
Location
California
Thank you all for the helpful input. It has always been my philosophy to do things right the first time, so I probably shouldn't skimp here either!

I'm not opposed to increasing the budget, however, it probably means that I'll move it down the list of my projects for now. Its a new to us home, and quite a few things to do!

I'll keep researching and watching this forum and soon enough develop a good plan. Thanks again to everybody that has taken the time and commented so far.

Love the title to your question, it's a good one! Focusing on doing things right the first time is a great decision. We know of so many who wished they would have waited a little while longer. I suggest reading the following article to get an idea of what to expect with the home improvement center DIY epoxy kits.

http://allgaragefloors.com/why-epoxy-paint-kits-get-a-bad-rap/

You really do get what you pay for with these kits. The Rust-Oleum Professional is the better choice for the DIY kits, but with a little bit bigger budget you will get so much more. All the vendors that spoke up here offer product that is much better than you can purchase from home improvement centers.
 

mslim

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Joined
Mar 25, 2015
Messages
294
Location
Fayetteville, AR
Having done the Home Depot Rustoleum system on my own 400 sq. ft garage I concur with most of the advice here. I think I ended up buying two kits. I scrubbed the floor with Simple Green and flushed the floor well with water afterward. It was bare concrete with no previous finish. I would say about 95% of the finished adhered after a 8 year period. Anything that didn't was my fault. It is very hard to distribute the flakes evenly in the finish if you haven't done it before.

The gloss on my finish was inconsistent as I was at the top (but not over) their temperature/humidity window when I applied the finish.

When I did our rental condo's garage floor, I hired a pro and the finish was far superior to my DIY from the HD. It was also way more expensive running about $2300 for a two car garage but that included diamond grinding the floor before application, two coats moisture sealer, Roll on Rock sealer, and clear topcoat.

It's like the endless Snap-On vs Craftsman debate. One will likely suffice and get you by but it ain't the same as the lifetime satisfaction of a premium product.

The budget and sense of value is up to you.
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
Having done the Home Depot Rustoleum system on my own 400 sq. ft garage I concur with most of the advice here. I think I ended up buying two kits. I scrubbed the floor with Simple Green and flushed the floor well with water afterward. It was bare concrete with no previous finish. I would say about 95% of the finished adhered after a 8 year period. Anything that didn't was my fault. It is very hard to distribute the flakes evenly in the finish if you haven't done it before.

The gloss on my finish was inconsistent as I was at the top (but not over) their temperature/humidity window when I applied the finish.

When I did our rental condo's garage floor, I hired a pro and the finish was far superior to my DIY from the HD. It was also way more expensive running about $2300 for a two car garage but that included diamond grinding the floor before application, two coats moisture sealer, Roll on Rock sealer, and clear topcoat.

It's like the endless Snap-On vs Craftsman debate. One will likely suffice and get you by but it ain't the same as the lifetime satisfaction of a premium product.

The budget and sense of value is up to you.

:3gears:
 
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