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Epoxy: if bubbles in primer will it bubble in topcoat?

pnut

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Sep 5, 2006
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138
Wolverine bond tite, liquitile, and endurashield. Just started today. Will have a separate post for the whole project when I'm done. Happy with product so far. I wasn't going to post product name but I knew I would be asked.

Small out gassing during primer. I thought it may happen due to time of day and drastic unexpected change in weather.

Started at 2pm today Friday. Temp to 90 today. Garage side gets afternoon sun (but cool due to closed door and flowing house air into garage). Larger sporadic bubbles. I popped them, after 30 min with a butane torch, and they have not returned. I DO NOT have any concerns about the product. It's not a big deal.

Question is once the primer is cured is there a risk the topcoat will? I plan to start doing topcoat at 6am if primer is cured. This means slab will heat up over day. My understanding is if the primer is cured its sealed and no out gassing would occur. My schedule has to be this way so I can get the whole thing done by Sunday night.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
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deerfield, IL
Bubbles come from very porous concrete, hyper mixed epoxy, moisture and/or direct sunlight.

If it was porous concrete it is possible to get more bubbles, should be less if any.
 
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pnut

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138
Bubbles come from very porous concrete, hyper mixed epoxy, moisture and/or direct sunlight.

If it was porous concrete it is possible to get more bubbles, should be less if any.

Thank you. It can probably rule out hyper mixed. It went on flat the bubbles came later. Sunlight also, I covered the windows. Porous concrete is unlikely due to bubbles where there was good penetration and where it was modest.

Likely is moisture / temp increase of concrete. It not at all a surprise.

Thanks for the reply. I think Its going well so far.
 
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pnut

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Follow up: I did the liquitile early this morning from 6-9am. No problems went on perfectly. No bubbles or anything.

Now on to the clear. Waiting for the color coat to cure. Tacky but soft underneath after about 6hrs.
 
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rsieracki

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Mar 3, 2010
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Anyone know how long for bondtite to fully cure/harden? I trimmed and filled a few spots last night. Apx 1/2 cup total this morning around 6-8 hrs later still tacky and a bit uneven so I want to llet it harden so I can sand/ scotchbright it smooth then roll out another coat... oh, this is the 1115 bondtite over Armstrong VCT
 
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pnut

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Sep 5, 2006
Messages
138
Anyone know how long for bondtite to fully cure/harden? I trimmed and filled a few spots last night. Apx 1/2 cup total this morning around 6-8 hrs later still tacky and a bit uneven so I want to llet it harden so I can sand/ scotchbright it smooth then roll out another coat... oh, this is the 1115 bondtite over Armstrong VCT

I did mine this weekend.

Bond Tite took 20 hours + to cure enough for the liquitile

Liquitile took 23 hours before I could clear it. Was still fingernail soft 18 hours in.

Endurashield was very quick, I was able to add second coat within 10 hours. Which is funny because of all 3 products, it was supposed to kick the slowest.

If you are doing this right now I need to give you a few pointers:

After primer, before liquitile: The Bond Tite is so clear, you don't see the flaws. Use a light to inspect and correct before you start the liquitile, very carefully scrape or sand any flaws, or bubble leftovers. The rest of the coats are not thick enough to fully cover.

Liquitile, I spread it out in a spiral on the floor. Rolled it out three times per area (575sq ft divided into 4 sections), and still had some areas which did not flow out and you could see thick areas. use downward pressure on the roller, and make sure it is spread.

Endurashield. - USE A 1/2" ROLLER NOT LESS. I used 3/8" Purdy. First coat I had lots of areas not full coated, could see roller lines. Second coat same type (new) roller, and rolled it on as thick as I could, and STILL had some areas with roller marks. Apparently it will flow out but only if you apply enough.
 

AlphaGarage

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Apr 16, 2008
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Location
Every Garage, AnyTown, USA
There are no ingredients in the Bondtite that will generate bubbles, generally they come from air in the concrete expanding due to heat. Most often the bubbles are small enough that they aren't a concerns, they don't affect durability of performance of the finished system. The only time they become an issue is when they're large enough to form a bubble that higher than the surrounding grade, at that point they may cause a visible bump after the LiquaTile is applied. If they're that large just sand 'em down with a block sander and wipe up any residue.

We had another call this weekend, they also applied BondTite but were concerned because the concrete soaked it all up - again, generally that's not a problem, in fact it's a good thing. The BondTite has one main purpose, and that's to provide an epoxy surface for the subsequent layer of LiquaTile. LiquaTile is great at absorbing shock and impact, but nothing adheres to concrete as well as does BondTite. As long as the BondTite was spread evenly, even if most of it is absorbed, there will be enough for the LiquaTile. Also, the BondTite both mechanically and chemically bonds to the concrete, as it does that it substantially strengthens the concrete.

Yes, the BondTite will encapsulate the concrete and you shouldn't have any bubbles in the LiquaTile.

The BondTite is spec'd to be applied at 5 mils wet, LiquaTile at 12 mils wet, and the EnduraShield at 4 mils. The EnduraShield is fairly thin, and if it's applied much thinner it will not flow out properly, that probably explains the roller marks.

We recommend to stick to at least 4 mils wet, 8 mils max per layer.
 
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