Epoxy in Texas

[matt18]

Hi all,

I'm thinking of putting epoxy down in the next few weeks but it is hot here. The outside temp is consistantly aroudn 100. Is that too hot to lay down epoxy and not have bubbles or curing issues.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[mayday0017]

It will cure faster if it's hotter out, I woudl say do it in the morning when it is a little cooler so you have your work time you need, then it will cure faster then normal once the temp comes up.

 

[Zrexxer]

Not that you won't get good advice here, but probably your best bet is to ask the manufacturer of the product you're planning to use what the working temp range is.

Also sweltering in 102F heat here...

 

[Garage Flooring]

Most of us a publish a chart and cautionary statements.

http://www.garageflooringllc.com/our-garage-floor-coating-cure-times/

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Coat in the afternoon as it is getting cooler out and use a primer.
Bubbles are from outgassing not heat.

 

[Falcon67]

Coat in the afternoon as it is getting cooler out and use a primer.
Bubbles are from outgassing not heat.

You can tell he's from Jersy Cooler afternoon? From about noon to around 8PM here it's over 100. You want cool, that's between 3AM and about 8AM.

OP - no problem with the heat at all. It will reduce your cure time. If you have a lot of area and are rolling it on, you will need to know your pot life and mix only what you can put down in that time less about 30 minutes. Or if it's a small area, you best get on with it. There is no stretching setup time on a two part mixed epoxy. When it starts to go, it goes. Make sure you have all materials, application and support items you need to get from start to finish. No breaks, no phone calls. Also be sure you mix the **** out of your components. Allow time for that. Buy a mixer for the end of a drill and really work at it.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Thanks falcon. It rarely gets to a 100 here and when it does it does not last long. Like Florida it rains at certain point cooling us down.

My only suggestion would be mix and dump, work your material from the floor to maximize the working time.

 

[thegarageguy]

My advice is to move to Jersey so you don't have to deal with that ****!

 

[Houston Rodder]

Coat in the afternoon as it is getting cooler out and use a primer.
Bubbles are from outgassing not heat.

Yankees.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yankee from Appomattox.

 

[matt18]

I was thinking of going with epoxy-coat. anyone suggest a good primer ?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Our Standard primer is compatible with epoxy-coat.
Clear or pigmented is fine.

 

[Falcon67]

We had a cold front drop through the area yesterday - really. It only got to 99 and it was 70 this morning. It seriously felt cold. It'll reverse back as a warm front, so after predicted lows in the high 60s we'll be 105 tomorrow.

 

[JD in DFW]

Matt,
I'm here in Texas as well and do a garage or two a day and these summer temps can be a bit of a beating to work in and with when it comes to the coatings. One thing that will help that we do is put the tinted portion of your coating kit in the fridge over night. this will slow down the "chemical heating" up of the coatings and allow you a bit more time to work with it.
Not knowing what you will be using this may not work, I don't use any water based stuff so not sure if the fridge approach would work with that. But if your using a high solids, solvent based materials you would be all good if you wanted to fridge it the night before.
Of course waiting for the weather to cool down would be best as for working in the garage as well as working with the coatings

Best of luck with your garage, hope it turns out like you dreamed! Just take your time and I'm sure you'll do just fine.
JD

 

[matt18]

Matt,
I'm here in Texas as well and do a garage or two a day and these summer temps can be a bit of a beating to work in and with when it comes to the coatings. One thing that will help that we do is put the tinted portion of your coating kit in the fridge over night. this will slow down the "chemical heating" up of the coatings and allow you a bit more time to work with it.
Not knowing what you will be using this may not work, I don't use any water based stuff so not sure if the fridge approach would work with that. But if your using a high solids, solvent based materials you would be all good if you wanted to fridge it the night before.
Of course waiting for the weather to cool down would be best as for working in the garage as well as working with the coatings

Best of luck with your garage, hope it turns out like you dreamed! Just take your time and I'm sure you'll do just fine.
JD

Thanks for the help, I leaning towards epoxy-coat, For the prep do you think i should grind or show the etching work ok ?

 

[JD in DFW]

Matt
I only diamond grind for prep, i don't introduce water or acid into the prep process. IMHO acid etching is the cheap way to prep...but that's just me. For a DIY project a good etch and pressure washing should be half alright. Be sure to let it thoroughly dry out for a day or so.
I do complete start to finish garages in one day so I find that diamond grinding provides the best prep for my applications.

If you have a buddy that can help you out that will save you alot of stress

 

[Falcon67]

I've done two etches and both did real well. I used a 4:1 mix and went over the floor twice real good. I rinsed a lot as I went - you do NOT want the etch to dry on the slab. Get a 24" squeegee to manage the water, it's 100x better than a sweep. Let the floor dry for at least 3 days in this weather, week is better. Go over any cracks with a hair dryer or at least blow them out to make sure there is no water in there. A decent etch will leave the floor feeling like 320~400 grit sand paper with a overall dull finish. Water should not bead up anywhere. If it does, suspect - and expect - a problem there if you don't deal with it. I had a few little bead spots from sap drips off the joists. I worked those areas with brake cleaner and re-etched until it was fixed. As JD pointed out, etching opens up the pores in the floor and water will soak in. You have to get all that out before you top coat. And you still want to do a moisture test (trash bag taped to the floor for 24 hours to make sure no water percs out under it) before you go for the paint.