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Epoxy Induction Time

rwwoods

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Aug 3, 2012
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33
Location
The Villages, Florida
On his website, epoxyproducts.com, Paul Oman makes the statement,

"Note that modern epoxies do not require an "induction period" or "sweat in" time. This is a amount of time you must let the epoxy sit after you mix it and before you use it. If the epoxy you are considering requires this, beware! It is the sign of a low end product that doesn't have your best interests at heart."

Unfortunately, no details are provided to back up this claim, and I have found no information on the web supporting the claim.

Is the statement true? If so, what are the facts?
 
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shaun oriold1

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Burlington,Ontatio
Thats pretty much true. You should always read the MSDS, and date sheets for any chemicals you're putting down.

The basics is that, some of the cheaper epoxies are made to be fool proof for the DIY installer. So they're loaded with chemicals which will eventually evaporate, but give a long working time.

IF you want to see some correlation to sweat time, and performance; read up on peoples experience with epoxies from big box stores.....
 
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rwwoods

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OK, I fully understand that some products include solvents and so are not 100% solids. So, when the term "low end product" is used, is it being used to describe products that are not 100% solids? Is that all there is to this message?
 

jaye944

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The only time I've heard anyone refer to a "sweat time" is on a youtube video. :lol_hitti

I have no experience on low end products only because of the advice I had from here.

TBH, I was a bit scared to let it sweat, and I don't believe you need to.

When you've mixed the Epoxy, it has a LIMITED pot-life, depending on the datasheet, it's usually 45 minutes (I've found), so you have just less than 45 minutes to do your stuff, before it goes off.

Now if your a pro, you can probably do it in 20 minutes, but for us mere mortals, it takes longer, you also have to factor in the FUF (fcuk up factor),
so leaving it to sweat for say 15 minutes, doesnt leave you an awful lot of time.

This also depends on the ambient temperature, the size of the mixing bucket and how much product your using.

Seriously just mix and go, I had no adverse effects from not leaving it to sweat, I used a primer, 2 coats of base and 1 coat of top

see my links
 
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Shea

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Actually........ Lesser quality water based epoxies (and some solvent based) such as Quikrete or Rust-Oleum as examples, do need to meet required induction times depending on temperature before they are applied. If it is applied immediately without letting it sit first, you run a high risk of the epoxy not curing properly once applied.

As Shaun explained, some of these easy DIY epoxy products that are marketed as "epoxy paint" because it is so easy to apply, are not the best quality.
 

benwah

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May 21, 2014
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Crested Butte, Colorado
Temperature is the big issue. You may have 30-35 minutes at 70 degrees, but only 8-10 minutes at 90 degrees. Sometimes colder temperatures require a "sweat-time" with some products, but like stated above it's not very common. I've actually never used a product that required it.. Now on the other hand, here in AZ, sometimes we have to stick our paint buckets in a larger bucket and fill with ice, because it's too damn hot!

It also depends on the solids %. Higher solids = shorter pot life. Lower solids = longer pot life in most cases.

"Low end product" doesn't mean "less than 100% solids". It is referring to the quality of the solids and epoxy resins used to manufacture the coating. Some epoxies must have solvents in them so they can be sprayed, not all pumps can spray 100% solids.
 

jaye944

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Temperature is the big issue. You may have 30-35 minutes at 70 degrees, but only 8-10 minutes at 90 degrees. Sometimes colder temperatures require a "sweat-time" with some products, but like stated above it's not very common. I've actually never used a product that required it.. Now on the other hand, here in AZ, sometimes we have to stick our paint buckets in a larger bucket and fill with ice, because it's too damn hot!


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