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Epoxy Non-Slip solution

ResistanceForm

New member
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Messages
2
TL;DR: Aluminum Oxide shards too sharp, wanting to correct it somehow. Needing ideas.

Hello all!

New user and garage rookie. I have been up and down the flooring section to try and devise a solution for my problem. But I think Im just lost in the variety of them. Thus, I thought I would pose a question with my specific issue. Here goes...

Recently installed epoxy flooring with 1/8" chip @ 80% broadcast, polyurethane top coat. I asked my contractor to add some sort of non-slip, and to err on the side of higher texture versus glassy smooth (i wash a fair amount of cars and wanted to not bite the dust regularly). He informed me that he "dislikes" non-skid, and gave several reasons, but I pushed him to it. We came up with a solution he thought would work well for my needs. He added a fairly large sized aluminum oxide to the top coat (i think he broadcasted it, rather than mixed it), and after walking barefoot, and putting hands and knees on it (I also intend to crawl under cars and such), I found it is way too "sharp" and prickly feeling. I really underestimated how sharp this stuff would feel to bare skin. I take responsibility for this judgement and am trying to come up with solutions to help repair it? Any ideas?

Here's a list of goals for me at this point:
- remove the prickly projections caused by the aluminum oxide.
- get the surface texture as close to the boards you showed me in the car with the 1/8" 80% chip systems, maybe slightly grittier.
- I still want as close to the natural texture from the chips to be felt through the top coat, and the top coat not being overly smooth (due to super thickness).
- I understand that the floor will feel smoother and more prone to slipping. I can find some mat solutions in traffic areas or when working in wet conditions.

Ideas for correction:
- Sand existing top coat to remove most of the aluminum oxide pieces.
- Re-spread the polyurethane top coat, with a Shark grip (~60 grit) mixed in (not broadcasted) with the liquid coating.

This will provide a top coat with a less aggressive non-skid that will give some texture without having the sharp projections from the larger aluminum oxide. This will hopefully also allow the chips to still have the desired effect. All while still looking good and performing well long term.
 

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LegacyIndustrial

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Those flakes are going with the clear. You sand it and it's another coat of epoxy, flakes and clear.




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ResistanceForm

New member
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Mar 18, 2017
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Damn. Not what I was hoping to hear. Any way to knock down the high and sharp spots without basically having to start over?
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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Hi, difficult, but to remove the topcoat and oxide. You may want to attempt it by renting a Diamabrush from Home Depot and see if that works. This tool has floating flexible blades unlike a diamond grinder.

If it does work you can add another coat of topcoat with a smaller sized non skid. We have a great non-gritty non skid call Ultrawear which is a finely powdered metal that makes the floor less slippery but not gritty.


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Antoddio

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Dec 26, 2015
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Charlotte, NC
If it were an epoxy topcoat you could scuff it up, solvent wipe, and lay more clear epoxy. However generally it's tougher to scuff up polyurethane and get the next layer to adhere. I wouldn't do it for a customer but I bet you could have some success with it.

Also you could try putting several layers of floor wax in a test area. Pretty easy and cheap to do.
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
Messages
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Location
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Another solution is lightly scuff it up, lay out a thick coat or two of 100% solids polyaspartic which we offer as an industrial product. That most likely would help a lot without mechanically destroying your floor. This won't yellow. Traditional urethane scant be laid out thick enough to make any difference.

Please contact our office directly for pricing and info.


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LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
Guys, the hard part is the flakes, you will be cutting them almost immediately. The only way around this is to use a grit brush.
Once prepared you would benefit from a non-skid like our HDGrip-SoftSkid. The name says it all, grip that does not hurt or cut.

Be careful what you topcoat with as not all urethanes are compatible with all urethanes, this includes Polyaspartic.

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-sealers/hdgrip-soft-skid-media.html

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/buff-pads-screens/malish-rotary-grit-brush.html


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