Epoxy on a polyurethane sealant

[Greenlawnracing]

My garage has many cracks (very common in Oklahoma) so the builder sealed them using Sikaflex crack sealant.

I was intending to put down Rustoleum professional - however have some concerns.

Speaking with Sika they advised me that their product flexes when the cracks expand and contract. Speaking with Rustoleum the professional does not flex - the only product they offer that will do so is the Rock Solid. I'm not a fan of that product due to the coverage issues I've read of.

So - is there another product one can recommend? Or, due to the sealant and future cracking - should I consider something like RaceDeck?

I do see several vendors on here - please feel free to email me with any offers, etc that may fit my needs:

rich.wu at sbcglobal. dot net.

 

[Shea]

I'm not sure why Sika would recommend applying any coating over their product. They state in their data sheets that water, oil, and rubber based paints can be applied if proper testing for adhesion is done first. Paint is different from coatings and RockSolid has some solvents in it as well. Also, SikaFlex is not sandable and will telegraph through your coating big time.

If you want to apply a coating, your best bet would be to remove the upper 1/2" of the SikaFlex and apply an epoxy or polyurea crack repair product with the appropriate elongation rates. Many of the vendors here sell such product. Once applied, these repairs can be properly ground flush so they don't telegraph through your coating.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

FLEX: Anything with too much "flex" will cause an issue with the coating sitting above it. Refrain from using anything like Sika or Caulk under resinous coatings. It is the weakest link in the chain and will likely cause a failure. Epoxy is BRITTLE compared to these products and will crack while they flex.

Either, fill these post coating process or use something with less flex or something intended to be placed under resinous coatings. PAINT is not a resinous coating.

 

[Greenlawnracing]

FLEX: Anything with too much "flex" will cause an issue with the coating sitting above it. Refrain from using anything like Sika or Caulk under resinous coatings. It is the weakest link in the chain and will likely cause a failure. Epoxy is BRITTLE compared to these products and will crack while they flex.

Either, fill these post coating process or use something with less flex or something intended to be placed under resinous coatings. PAINT is not a resinous coating.

Unfortunately the builder already used Sika.

The cracks are VERY minor, however they are a spider web throughout the garage.

Two questions:

Am I safe to assume that removing the Sika and using something else is a major undertaking?

Is there an epoxy that will "flex" and thus "work" with the Sika?

I've attached a picture from the inspection report that shows the severity of the cracks, and the current state after the builder sealed them.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Chase the Sika out completely with crack chase blade. It is only useful if you will leave the floor in it's current state.

Any resinous coating over this is in jeopardy of cracking.

A product like our Xtreme Set 100 would be appropriate.

 

[Shea]

It depends. The cracks in the attached picture are small, but the picture with the SikaFlex applied looks as though the cracks have been widened a large amount. Either that or they wiped the SikaFlex with a putty knife after it was applied. Dig around one of the filled cracks to determine what was done. If the cracks were not widened it can be a relatively easy fix with the right tools.

It would require lightly grinding the surface to remove the excess SikaFlex that is spread over the concrete. This will reveal the small cracks filled with SikaFlex. Next, you would chase the cracks with a crack chasing wheel. This will widen the crack slightly, remove much of the SikaFlex, and clean up the brittle edges of the cracks. It will also expose fresh concrete for the proper repair material to adhere too.

Here is a video on how a crack chasing wheel works:

You can purchase a cheap 4" angle grinder from Harbor Freight for about $15. Amazon sells 4" concrete turbo cup grinding wheels for $12 and a crack chasing wheel for $25.

For the quickest and easiest repair materials, Legacy Industrial has a great product called Xtreme Set 100. We did an article on it here.

 

[Greenlawnracing]

Becoming a big fan of GJ with the knowledge around here!

The cracks have not gotten any wider, although I'd imagine they'll expand/contract with the weather. I also assume there will likely be more of them. It looks like they simply used a putty knife and spread an extreme amount of Sika around the cracks.

So....if I grind down the excess Sika....chase the cracks with a wheel...then seal them with Extreme Set 100.....I can apply the Rustoleum Professional or any other epoxy?

Does sound like a decent amount of work, however not impossible.

Give the current state of the garage, the potential for future cracks, and the fact that I generally have to move every two to three years - should I consider tiles, or move forward with this project?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, any epoxy over top is fine with our product.
I would go for it.

Have seen cracks/issues far worse than yours that turned into showplaces.

 

[Greenlawnracing]

I'm not sure why Sika would recommend applying any coating over their product. They state in their data sheets that water, oil, and rubber based paints can be applied if proper testing for adhesion is done first. Paint is different from coatings and RockSolid has some solvents in it as well. Also, SikaFlex is not sandable and will telegraph through your coating big time.

If you want to apply a coating, your best bet would be to remove the upper 1/2" of the SikaFlex and apply an epoxy or polyurea crack repair product with the appropriate elongation rates. Many of the vendors here sell such product. Once applied, these repairs can be properly ground flush so they don't telegraph through your coating.

I realize its bad to get 900 different opinions, but here is where I'm at:

I purchased two of these before I bought the house. There is a 90 day return policy which comes up on the 20th should I change my mind. I did get them for just $99 each - about half of the regular price:

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...te-floor-coatings/professional-floor-coating/

Actually, I had four boxes show up - I just opened one today. I'm not sure if a "kit" is two boxes. If not, I think they sent me two orders in which case I need to send one back.

In any case, I talked to the builder yesterday. He agreed to grind down the excess Sika. He also spoke to his epoxy guy who said I'd be fine from that point on to apply the Rustoleum. I called the guy myself who confirmed that the epoxy would adhere to the thin line of Sika, and that the likelihood of the cracks moving either way was minimal. He did say that I could develop further cracks which is very common in Oklahoma, but only the most premium applications would endure this movement.

I realize even the "professional" grade of Rustoleum is junk compared to what other vendors on this board have to offer - however I generally have to move every two to three years. Its tough to spend $1500 - $200 on a professional application or $500 - $1000 on premium materials and a DIY when I know that I'll be relocating soon.

Thoughts from the pros?

 

[bigjon]

If you don’t do it right the first time it may look worse in 3 years when you sell.

I’m not a pro but I do buy houses. If I saw a deteriating epoxy coating, after only 3 years, I’d definitely negotiate the price to include removal and reapplication.

 

[Shea]

I realize its bad to get 900 different opinions, but here is where I'm at:

I purchased two of these before I bought the house. There is a 90 day return policy which comes up on the 20th should I change my mind. I did get them for just $99 each - about half of the regular price:

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...te-floor-coatings/professional-floor-coating/

Actually, I had four boxes show up - I just opened one today. I'm not sure if a "kit" is two boxes. If not, I think they sent me two orders in which case I need to send one back.

In any case, I talked to the builder yesterday. He agreed to grind down the excess Sika. He also spoke to his epoxy guy who said I'd be fine from that point on to apply the Rustoleum. I called the guy myself who confirmed that the epoxy would adhere to the thin line of Sika, and that the likelihood of the cracks moving either way was minimal. He did say that I could develop further cracks which is very common in Oklahoma, but only the most premium applications would endure this movement.

I realize even the "professional" grade of Rustoleum is junk compared to what other vendors on this board have to offer - however I generally have to move every two to three years. Its tough to spend $1500 - $200 on a professional application or $500 - $1000 on premium materials and a DIY when I know that I'll be relocating soon.

Thoughts from the pros?

Professional floor coating contractors would never apply epoxy over SikaFlex since it increases greatly the chances of cosmetic issues and having to return to fix problems. It's not a proper procedure as was stated earlier. That said, if you are only going to install a low solids water based epoxy, then it really won't make much of a difference at this point. These kits will only last a few years or more in a low traffic garage before they start to show their age. Less in busier garages.

 

[Greenlawnracing]

Professional floor coating contractors would never apply epoxy over SikaFlex since it increases greatly the chances of cosmetic issues and having to return to fix problems. It's not a proper procedure as was stated earlier. That said, if you are only going to install a low solids water based epoxy, then it really won't make much of a difference at this point. These kits will only last a few years or more in a low traffic garage before they start to show their age. Less in busier garages.

I was under the impression that the solvent based kits would last a few more years - is that not the case?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...Ei5psltYghmPPGHFG1Zdg4Lzri-gzZnRoCXxYQAvD_BwE

 

[stm317]

If you're going to be moving out of this place in a couple of years that changes things in my opinion. A garage floor is super low on the list of important features to most buyers, so you're not likely to see any payoff from your investment. I'd probably just scrape off as much of the excess Filler as possible and apply a good sealer to protect the slab and call it a day. No grinding necessary. Should be less expensive than high end epoxies, and any future issues caused by different expansion rates like chipping or peeling should be less visible then a bad epoxy job. Even paint seems like a potential candidate for short term use. You'd be able to touch up bad spots, or recoat the whole floor when you're ready to sell.

 

[Muzzy]

I don't know anything about Oklahoma, but if that was my new floor I would be super pissed.

I would send back the Rustoleum, follow the professional advice given here, and for fun send the builder a bill for your effort. He won't pay, but it will be entertaining.

If you're moving in three years, you really need to consider resale value. A delaminating floor will not help.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,
We agree that chasing out and replacing the flexible Sikaflex is a good idea, we carry crack fillers to address this that are not soft. Then we would suggest our Flexible 100% solids epoxy which has a much lower chance of cracking than other products. Stay away from home center products, they most likely will fail in short order based on our experience.

Please contact us directly for info and pricing. Thank you.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I don't know anything about Oklahoma, but if that was my new floor I would be super pissed.



I would send back the Rustoleum, follow the professional advice given here, and for fun send the builder a bill for your effort. He won't pay, but it will be entertaining.



If you're moving in three years, you really need to consider resale value. A delaminating floor will not help.

Great advice. Today’s buyer will not tolerate any issues, they want easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk