Epoxy on floor with no vapour barrier?

[babzog]

Hey folks,

My double garage was poured in '91 and has no vapour barrier installed (This I know from having jackhammered out a section to seal the electrical service entry to the house).

There are also a few lovely cracks running across the floor (no crack stop lines were scored in).

Inside of garage is coated in OSB but is not insulated against the (down to) -30 deg C temperatures we get here.

I'd like to put down an epoxy coating with a non-slip additive but I don't really know where to begin researching or what questions to ask (I always thought one would just slap down some concrete paint and be done, but this site has shown me that ain't always so!).

Hope you good folks can shed some light and offer some recommendations for product and application of same to achieve a safe (esp. when cold and wet) and durable floor.

Cheers!

 

[Gambitt]

It is doubtful it would ever hold without a vapor barrier (from what I have been told), but there is a test. Take a piece of plastic about a 1' square and duct tape it to the floor. Check it the next day and see if you have any water vapor trapped inside. If you do, the epoxy probably won't ever hold to the floor.

You might try something like Racedeck if the epoxy option doesn't work out.

 

[babzog]

Okay. I tried the taping the bag to the floor in a couple of spots (one about 3' from the back wall and then moved it to about 1' from the door.

The back wall showed no water sign after two days. The one by the door also didn't show sign of water bleeding through the concrete but a rain storm the other day sent water in under the door which seeped a bit under the duct tape. The center was still dry, however.

Does this test result indicate that I could successfully apply an epoxy product?

My main concern for coating the floor is simply to keep oil and other fluid spills from seeping into the concrete. If I coat it, I'm going to have to apply some sort of non-slip coating as well so it doesn't become a skating rink in the winter.

Costco has a 7.5'x17' plastic sheet, formed to look like diamond-plate, tha's intended for garage floor application. They want $199 per roll, which seems pretty high to me.

What do you guys think are my best choices?

 

[Gambitt]

Someone else will have to chime in on this. It sounds like you might be okay to me, especially this time of the year, but you really need to hear from one of the experts. Everything I have learned I learned on this forum. Do a few searches and maybe the experts will add to this. What state are you located in? I know here in KY we have had a ton of rain for the past 2 months, so the ground is really saturated here.

 

[babzog]

Someone else will have to chime in on this. It sounds like you might be okay to me, especially this time of the year, but you really need to hear from one of the experts. Everything I have learned I learned on this forum. Do a few searches and maybe the experts will add to this. What state are you located in? I know here in KY we have had a ton of rain for the past 2 months, so the ground is really saturated here.

Hi,

I'm in Canada, actually. I'm hoping for some expert advice - I don't want to have to peel off a lousy job.

Thanks!

 

[Hammerdown]

I have had this issue before, and I have been able to apply an epoxy that works well, and have had good luck (along with some other members of this board, although some have not as well) with UCOATIT. You actually apply it wet! Check it out and see if it fits your needs.

 

[GarageDetailer]

UCOATIT is a good product, but my experience is hydrolic pressure will lift epoxy coatings over time if no vapor barrier is present. I just finished removing a Polyurea coating job I did over new construction with a damaged vapor barrier.

I had tested and discovered slight moisture before application so I flooded the floor with VersaFlex AquaLok II Moisture Barrier until it would not absorb anymore. Then I coated. After 4 weeks, the coating had little pimples all over filled with water.

I ended up acid staining the floor with a design since I knew of no other top coat that will work. Live and Learn.

I have RaceDeck in my garage and love it. Floor tiles or mats are a good solution to your problem.

 

[babzog]

Interesting on the water lifting the coating. From that, I take it the "bag trick" is not foolproof?

Is there a way to bond or seal the edges of the mats or tiles to prevent surface water, oil, etc from seeping underneath and further damaging the concrete?

 

[A_Pmech]

My shop does not have a vapor barrier. It is coated with the Rust Oleum "commercial" solvent-base epoxy. 10 years, no problems!

 

[krooser]

No vapor barrier here either... 3 years and no problems...

I used to deliver pre-cast concrete wall panels to commercial construction sites including Menard's stores... they always have a shiny, epoxy floor installed and I can assure you they DO NOT have any vapor barrier under their typical floor... I've seen several of them being poured while I was on the job site.

 

[Gambitt]

Precast are in a different category than your typical poured floor. They are able to get precast concrete much denser and it does not need a vapor barrier.

 

[MonsterCoatings]

Only true way to see if it will hold or not is to do a calcium chloride test to determine your slabs Moisture Vapor Pressure. (1 test every 100 sq.ft.)
If MVP falls within acceptable levels it should hold well.
If it tests high you can reduce MVP with penetrating products like Protocap and Aquron. I almost always use them as cheap insurance. You need to test again after application to make certain MVP is below 10 I like to see below 2-3 for epoxy applications & for me to offer a warranty.

 

[MonsterCoatings]

Also for non slip additive I refer aluminum oxide over shark grip. I mix into base coat and after top coat is applied just enough sticks out so its locked into base and top coats. There are about a dozen grades available I like 54 grit for a finer finish and 36 for entry areas where slipping is of real concern.

 

[katit]

I used Benjamin Moore M40 coating system. I did everything right with clear primer that could be applied to wet surface. 3 years and everything hold perfect except for few spots in area that was damaged with solt. Then I dropped tools on it and it chipped. But only in that area. I even see moisture coming out at those spots but overall floor holds very good!

 

[babzog]

Only true way to see if it will hold or not is to do a calcium chloride test to determine your slabs Moisture Vapor Pressure.

Where can I find more information about this test and what's involved in conducting it?