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Epoxy over VCT....

jxxxoxxxe

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Feb 15, 2007
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Alright, I searched, and found a thread about the subject, but it was from 2006, and hadn't been updated...

So, has anyone put clear epoxy over VCT? I love the look of my VCT, but hate having to worry about parking on it, and leaving yellow marks, plus after some real work in there, it needs to be polished again....

In the older thread, the guy was going to rough the VCT up, so the epoxy would stick...seems like it would work?

Any epoxy guys know...?
 
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connorB

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Watch what of epoxy you use. Example, a solvent base epoxy like a xylene base will get the cracks and soften the glue and cause a lift (pops loose). You need a water clear in acrylic epoxy or 100% solids( no solvents).

Glenn
 
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WolverineCoatings

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People do it all of the time... In fact, people have done entire grocery stores with our BondTite 1101... or BondTite 1101 and Flakes... Just make sure to strip any wax and follow prep instructions from the manufacturer...
 
OP
J

jxxxoxxxe

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People do it all of the time... In fact, people have done entire grocery stores with our BondTite 1101... or BondTite 1101 and Flakes... Just make sure to strip any wax and follow prep instructions from the manufacturer...



alright then...I went to your website, but didnt see anyplace to order anything, or anything about how much I would need to do 1200 sq ft...?
 

roger55

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People do it all of the time... In fact, people have done entire grocery stores with our BondTite 1101... or BondTite 1101 and Flakes... Just make sure to strip any wax and follow prep instructions from the manufacturer...

How many mils of BondTite 1101 would you recommend to put over VCT?

If using the Armstrong 1/8" echelon VCT, how do you recommend prepping it?
Would sanding it with 80 or 100 grit be sufficient?
 

WolverineCoatings

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Hi Roger,

Thickness of the BondTite 1101 is a matter of preference and budget. The minimum would be 5 mils. Also, we have just had someone in California try our EnduraShield 2254 over VCT. The EnduraShield is even better than BondTite 1101. However, it is much more expensive. And, yes... people use 60, 80, or 100 grit to rough it up. If you are using BondTite 1101 then you can be rougher... The guy in California went straight over new VCT with no roughing it up... I'll call him tomorrow to see how it's holding up with no prep... Send a PM to Fred and tell him to follow up with me. I'll be travelling some this week and won't be monitoring this board.

Eric
 
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AlphaGarage

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The EnduraShield is even better than BondTite 1101. However, it is much more expensive.
Eric

The BondTite 1101 will be about 24¢ per square foot, and the EnduraShield 2254 will be 36¢ per square foot. Those prices are at minimum recommended depth, ideal package size, and not factoring in waste.

In the real world for 1,200 ft2 you could do it with 4.5 gallons of BondTite 1101 ($375), or 3.125 gallons of EnduraShield 2254 ($474).
 

roger55

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Is 3.6 mil the nominal thickness for the EnduraShield or the minimum?
The cost is not a factor for me if a little thicker is better. My area is 660 ft2.

Also, what is the pot life after mixing the EnduraShield? And, is it best applied with a roller?
 

AlphaGarage

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EnduraShield is 90% solids, the recommended min wet depth is 4.0 mil, 3.6 dry. A thicker coating will wear better, but this one should be applied no more than 8 mil wet, so it's better to go with multiple coats.

Pot life is longer than most epoxies, figure 60 minutes. Roller works fine. It goes down crystal clear and is extremely hard and durable. It's outdoor stable - it will stay clear and not yellow in full sun light. Really neat stuff.

Most of our other coatings are mixed 2:1, resin to hardener, this one is .25:1, one part resin to 4 parts hardener. It's avail in .626 gallon (250 ft2) and 1.25 gallon (500 ft2) kits, $116 and $179.
 

FakeName

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Hi Roger,

Thickness of the BondTite 1101 is a matter of preference and budget. The minimum would be 5 mils. Also, we have just had someone in California try our EnduraShield 2254 over VCT. The EnduraShield is even better than BondTite 1101. However, it is much more expensive. And, yes... people use 60, 80, or 100 grit to rough it up. If you are using BondTite 1101 then you can be rougher... The guy in California went straight over new VCT with no roughing it up... I'll call him tomorrow to see how it's holding up with no prep... Send a PM to Fred and tell him to follow up with me. I'll be travelling some this week and won't be monitoring this board.

Eric

So- how did this turn out?

fn
 

roger55

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So- how did this turn out?

fn

I decided against using VCT.
I have ordered the Wolverine system (BondTite/Liquitile/Decoflakes/EnduraShield) instead.

You may want to follow up with Wolverine to see if the guy in California who did it is happy with it.
 

nonhog

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So how does someone apply BT or ES with respect to the seams and not softening the VCT glue ? Or is this an issue ? I thought I read that it might be ?
Seems to me if BT is as good as its reports have been. (not doubting)
That this would be a great way to solve the tile shift issues when turning ?

Fred ? Eric ?
 

roger55

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Fort Collins, CO
So how does someone apply BT or ES with respect to the seams and not softening the VCT glue ? Or is this an issue ? I thought I read that it might be ?
Seems to me if BT is as good as its reports have been. (not doubting)
That this would be a great way to solve the tile shift issues when turning ?

Fred ? Eric ?

Take a look at my last post in this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26308&page=2

I put VCT on my workbench and brushed on 1 coat of BondTite on top.
I'm sure the BondTite will not interfere with the adhesive.
One thing I would recommend is to sand the VCT with 80 grit for good adhesion. I did some experimenting on some left over tiles first and tried some different grits of sandpaper. The cured BondTite could be peeled off the VCT if I used 150 grit but could not with 80 grit.

IMO, I would say that epoxy or urethane would not solve the tile shift issues.
You would probably have to use epoxy adhesive to do that.

I think that the only problem with doing epoxy adhesive and an epoxy or urethane finish on VCT is the cost. This would get you up to the cost of a top-notch epoxy floor or something like racedeck that are both designed for shops and garages where VCT is not. Having said that, there is still a look with a black and white checkerboard garage floor that is just plain cool.
 
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