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Epoxy paint problem - need help!!

69lkmno

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Sep 15, 2005
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San Diego - Oceanside
OK, I applied the epoxy paint and some areas came out really nice. But there are some areas that I did not apply generously and came out not as shiny and nice as some areas.

Now my question is, can I still apply a second coat even if I had already put some chips on it and it's been 4 days and probably take another week before I can apply another coat? Can I just rent a floor sander and sand it a little bit and paint it again? Please advise!!
 

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JohnHenrys48

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Jan 27, 2005
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Arizona
According to Rustoleum, after 24 hours you will need to "scuff" the surface. Best bet is to contact the maker of the product you are using.

Good luck,

Jim
 

ringer

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Aug 22, 2005
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Big Sky Country!-Montana
Yeah, as stated, I would hit it with a sander and go at it again. I know with the gray epoxy, you can paint right over the chips, though I am not certain, I imagine you could do the same with the tan.
 

krooser

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Waupaca, Wisconsin
I had to do the same thing ...my buddy put on a coat and it got cold and didn't gloss up in some places. I rented a square orbital sander...worked fantastic....DON'T use a belt sander...way too aggresive...
 
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69lkmno

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krooser said:
I had to do the same thing ...my buddy put on a coat and it got cold and didn't gloss up in some places. I rented a square orbital sander...worked fantastic....DON'T use a belt sander...way too aggresive...

So what grit sand paper should I use?
 
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69lkmno

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San Diego - Oceanside
I called the manufacturer today and they said that I can just sand it and paint over the sanded epoxy painted floor. Now, I just gotta wait another week to get another kit.
 

mikeb9550

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Nov 25, 2005
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MICHIGAN
What size garage do you have? I was thinking about using this product in the spring and have a 20 x 26 garage. I probably also would want to do 2 coats instead of having to sand it later. Just like paint, I have yet to see a true one coat coverage.

Also, what kind of prep did you do? In the overview section, it looks easy but when you read about prep in another area it sounds so much more involved. Did you acid etch? I have fairly new concrete and wondered if it was needed?
 
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69lkmno

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San Diego - Oceanside
mikeb9550 said:
What size garage do you have? I was thinking about using this product in the spring and have a 20 x 26 garage. I probably also would want to do 2 coats instead of having to sand it later. Just like paint, I have yet to see a true one coat coverage.

Also, what kind of prep did you do? In the overview section, it looks easy but when you read about prep in another area it sounds so much more involved. Did you acid etch? I have fairly new concrete and wondered if it was needed?

I have a 22x34 size garage. One coat should have been alright. You just have to be overly generous when applying the paint. There are areas that came out really well especially towards the end when I knew I had more paint left.

As far as preparation, just like the rest here on this site, it took a lot more time and effort to prep the floor. Here's what I did for preparation:

Swept clean all debris and use a power blower to blow all the dust. Pressure washed it and manually scrubbed some areas that has oil stains using Simple Green and one of those Purple degreaser. I then rented a floor buffer from Home Depot and scrubbed the entire garage with the same degreaser for about 3 hours. I used close to 3 gallons of degreaser. Then rinsed the floor thouroughly. Then etched with muriatic acid and more manual scrubbing. Then rinse thouroughly again. While I was rinsing the acid, I had 2 hoses with just running water on my driveway because I didn't want any streaks on the driveway when I get done with this project. Also as a courtesy to my neighbors where the wash acid will run by their driveway. Then I went to every square inch of the floor to see if I missed any paint or gum and scraped it. I also used a wire wheel brush and attached it to a power drill and used it in areas that has stains that did not come off. I applied acid one more time because it looked like some areas did not come out as rough as some areas. Rinse again and pressure wash thouroughly. I waited 2 days to make sure that the floor is completely dry.

Just give you a background of my garage, I had restored 2 cars and on my 3rd one. I did some minor painting and also used Por 15 that dripped on the floor. That is why I did more work in preparation.
 
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krooser

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69lkmno said:
So what grit sand paper should I use?
I used both an 80 and a 100 grit...didn't see a whole lotta difference in the floor...both worked quite well.

The yard where I rented the machine gave me a whole stash of paper and I only paid for what I used.

I sanded 1000 sq. ft. with two sheets total. Charged me about $10.00 per sheet.

ALSO... buddy of mine does these floors for a living...he sez to get even coverage with the plastic "flakes'...take a handful and bounce 'em off the ceiling...it tends to disperse them better then just broadcasting them over the floor.
 

GearHead_1

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Jan 9, 2005
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Utah
krooser said:
ALSO... buddy of mine does these floors for a living...he sez to get even coverage with the plastic "flakes'...take a handful and bounce 'em off the ceiling...it tends to disperse them better then just broadcasting them over the floor.


This is what I found to be the case also, though it doesn't work well on a 21 ft. vaulted ceiling. :lol:
 

carb454

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Sep 29, 2005
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33
Location
southern MD.
WOW, You really have done alot of prep on that floor, I also want to do my floor in a surface that can with stand jacks and jack stands (might have to use plywood under jack stands) ...
My question is were you standing on your floor for those pics ? I'm assuming it was completely dry? (very shiny looks wet)
Sweet looking Elky... :bounce:
 
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69lkmno

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San Diego - Oceanside
carb454 said:
My question is were you standing on your floor for those pics ? I'm assuming it was completely dry? (very shiny looks wet)
Sweet looking Elky... :bounce:
Yes, I was standing on the garage floor and that is dry and very shiny. That picure was taken 4 days after the application. Thanks for the complement on the El Camino. :thumbup:
 

Gregdoo

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Jul 21, 2005
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Colorado Springs, CO
I was thinking of using the same stuff you did. Are you saying that their kit had more than enough coating, but in in the beginning you weren't sure so you went a bit thin? If so, how much extra did you end up with? Mine is 25' x 25'. Hope the sanding works out for you.
 
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69lkmno

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San Diego - Oceanside
Gregdoo said:
I was thinking of using the same stuff you did. Are you saying that their kit had more than enough coating, but in in the beginning you weren't sure so you went a bit thin? If so, how much extra did you end up with? Mine is 25' x 25'. Hope the sanding works out for you.

I ordered 2 kits which is a total of 6 gallons. I had an extra gallon and a half. If I just did right in the beginning meaning applying more generous, it probabaly would have been fine. But with the sanding now, I would most likely need about 3 gallons to do a 2nd coat. With the size of your garage, I would order 2 kits and apply it really thick.
 

6t7gto

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Dec 6, 2005
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bedford,ohio
69lkmno,
did you put a clear topcoating over the flakes?
or are the flakes the final step?
i read about one application that doesn't give you a clear topcoating and he said he tracked the flakes into the house for quite awhile afterward.
thanks,
david
 
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69lkmno

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Sep 15, 2005
Messages
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Location
San Diego - Oceanside
6t7gto said:
69lkmno,
did you put a clear topcoating over the flakes?
or are the flakes the final step?
i read about one application that doesn't give you a clear topcoating and he said he tracked the flakes into the house for quite awhile afterward.
thanks,
david
I did not use any topcoating over the flakes and don't have any issues of any flakes coming off and being tracked into the house.
 

Competitiveswimmer

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Sep 4, 2010
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I have streaks but only in the glossiness of the Rustoleum. I was hoping the top coat (Rustoleum Premium Clear Coating) would level all the glossiness. it that correct thinking?
 
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