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Epoxy paints

Joined
Oct 15, 2019
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16
Location
New Jersey
I'm looking for some advice. I'll be doing some work to my BMW, welding on the chassis and the interior. I'd like to finish the process off with an epoxy paint. A lot of people use POR 15 but I have reservations about the product. It also will look bad when finishing the interior. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good epoxy primer and final product to use. I don't have a spray gun but could get one if needed. It would be ideal if I could get the product in a rattle can. Just seems easier.

Any additional advice would be greatly appreciated. I can weld but I have little to no experience painting, especially painting while on my back lol

Process would be:
Wurth Weld threw primer on surfaces
Weld
Seam sealer? is this even needed if I am painting?
Epoxy primer
Epoxy paint

For reference the job is an E46 M3 Rear subframe reinforcement

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astroracer

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Don't waste the money and time on the weld thru primer. It works no differently then epoxy primer when you toss about 3500 degrees at it. It catches fire, makes black sooty smoke, stinks and burns off just like anything else would. You will still need to go back and reprime the welded areas so just prime everything after you get the welding cleaned up.
Dupli-Color makes a good self etching primer that comes in a rattle can, use that to seal up your welds and bare metal then cover all of the work with their epoxy.
Just Google Dupli-color, they should have a "where to get app".
Any questions just ask. I am rebuilding the cowls, floors and rockers in a '56 wagon right now so I am neck deep into this stuff.
Mark
 
OP
J
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New Jersey
Are you shooting SPI through a gun. I have heard a lot of positive things of this product but since I'm so new I got intimidated by the site.

Good tip on the weld threw primer

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Hammer1963

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I use Medallion epoxy and it works great. Wurth makes very good products as well. I am sure all reputable refinish product companies epoxy products are very similar and can be applied with a brush and small rollers. In fact, a small acid brush is excellent for applying the primer. It will allow you to cram the primer into all of the small cavities. Clean, clean, clean is the key to good adhesion. Acetone will work well for the cleaning before and after welding. Urethane seam sealer should be used to keep out new moisture and dirt in your work areas. It's cheap insurance. Refinish with a quality automotive type of aerosol paint like Dupli-color. No Rustoleum.
 

56Safari

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Are you shooting SPI through a gun. I have heard a lot of positive things of this product but since I'm so new I got intimidated by the site.

Good tip on the weld threw primer

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Yes, I shoot it through a gun... I currently have a Devilbliss finish line gun just for primer, does a great job.. I’ve heard of some guys brushing it on or pouring it in hard to reach places.


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56Safari

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Jun 3, 2016
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130
It’ll need longer times between coats likely if you brush it on because of thickness.. if you have a compressor, any cheapo gun will do the job, isn’t hard to spray. Follow mixing, temperature, and redcoat instructions thoroughly in the manual. Pot life is 3-5 days If sealed.. I clean, save and use leftover glass food jars like pickle jars to keep the pot air tight.

Here’s a set of rockers I painted with 3 coats

38e20f6af2ca6f51f24cae1f5bbce5a1.jpg


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astroracer

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Applying any paint in temperatures below the recommended temps should not be done. Failure will be imminent. :)
Get your metal work and welding done and wait for warmer climes to do your painting. Maybe by that time you will have picked up a nice spray gun. Look at Harbor Freight, they offer a couple of small touch-up style guns that will do the job nicely and are not expensive at all.
What you will spend on rattle can paint will more then cover the cost of a good spray gun and the needed equipment to use it.
Mark
 

speed bump

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Butte Montana
Would you still recommend if I can't get the temp in my garage above 45 degrees

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Epoxies won't catalyze below about 65 degrees. Unless you can hold 70 degrees for 24 hours you shouldn't be using them. A self etching primer may work at 45 with a fast reducer but that is below the temps you are going to want to be doing body work at.
 
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OP
J
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Oct 15, 2019
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New Jersey
Good question, I figured epoxy would provide a good smooth coverage that is thick enough to be used under a car. Also expand and contract at the same rate and be better suited for the job over the POR15 alternative

Someone private DMed me and recommended a bed liner like raptor or herculiner

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clubairth

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Dec 24, 2014
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Another vote for SPI Epoxy. They are very oriented to the DIY type painter.
That's all I use since Dupont became Axalta.
Good bit cheaper too.
.
.
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bob15

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Northeasten, CT
Like I wrote on your other posting, for under carpet use and chassis epoxy, I like Rustoleum 9100 series. Use a brush or buy a cheap HF HVLP gun to spray with it. No primer is necessary, just clean, solid seat. For use in 40-60°F, use their low temp activator.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/industrial-brands/high-performance/epoxy-coatings/9100-system-dtm-epoxy-mastic

Second option with be a Hammerite type paint, but they aren't smooth in the final finish. But under the chassis and under the carpet, who cares.....
 
OP
J
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New Jersey
Like I wrote on your other posting, for under carpet use and chassis epoxy, I like Rustoleum 9100 series. Use a brush or buy a cheap HF HVLP gun to spray with it. No primer is necessary, just clean, solid seat. For use in 40-60°F, use their low temp activator.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...e/epoxy-coatings/9100-system-dtm-epoxy-mastic

Second option with be a Hammerite type paint, but they aren't smooth in the final finish. But under the chassis and under the carpet, who cares.....
Thanks Bob. Didn't even realize I had a douplicate post

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astroracer

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Why epoxy?

Epoxy is a two part catalyzed paint. It does not absorb moisture like a regular single stage enamel or lacquer based primer does. For a "one coat" sealer the epoxy is a much better option that does not require a top coat to seal up the body work.
Mark
 
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Biggest downside of epoxy paints at one time was all the color options were pastels and matte finishes. It’s still not enamel but it’s awful close and you can fix the matte finish with clear coat enamel if you need to.

We use clear epoxy at work for electric motor rewinds instead of varnish. It’s better in almost every way. The catalyst is temperature sensitive so it goes on like varnish but when it hits the magic temperature in the oven (150 C I think) the epoxy chemically bonds.

An even more interesting one is spray dried epoxy beads/powder. You can powder coat with it with a gun or heat the part and dip it into fluidized epoxy (blow air through it). Then finish in the oven. Called fusion bonded epoxy. Far stronger than powder coat enamel. Two uses I know of. One is taking ductile iron pipe and using epoxy on it to make it immune to sewer gases so you get the ultimate sewer pipe. Second is coating electrical bus bars with it to make electrically insulated copper and aluminum bus for switchgear. Much smaller and lighter than wiring. I’m pretty sure from what I’ve seen you can do this in a garage but never tried.
 

toplessHO

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Oct 20, 2014
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central florida
SPI for epoxies and the clears,have been using for many years.
havent used the colors yet which is a limited selection,but if anything like the rest of products Im sure they will be great.
 

Benw455

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Dec 20, 2005
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752
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WV
Another vote for SPI love the epoxy.
I have also used the universal clear. Great products. And they have fast shipping.
 
OP
J
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Oct 15, 2019
Messages
16
Location
New Jersey
One more question as I am really wanting to use epoxy, if I use heat lamps on the panels to increase the temp of the panel to over 65. Then shoot epoxy, and keep the heat lamps on. Will the cure times or product be effected. Temperature is my biggest obstacle at this time

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arrowhead

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Dec 11, 2008
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681
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Stillwater, NY
One more question as I am really wanting to use epoxy, if I use heat lamps on the panels to increase the temp of the panel to over 65. Then shoot epoxy, and keep the heat lamps on. Will the cure times or product be effected. Temperature is my biggest obstacle at this time

If you're doing a small area then yea, you can get by with some heat lamp trickery. Don't forget to warm up the paint too. Otherwise you're asking for trouble. The test is after it's cured to sand it a little. If it chips off or gums up the paper and doesn't feather smoothly, then it's not curing.
 
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