Epoxy & Poly Aspartic?

[OldNeons]

Not sure I'm up on all the latest, greatest - but getting ready to do 1000sq ft WORKshop floor. Have done a garage (1300 sq ft) in the Rust Oleum Industrial Epoxy system (prime/basecoat/light chip/ clear with gator grip).

Looking at options for the new shop. Is the poly aspartic really worth the extra expense in material cost? This shop will be used, so I want a durable system. The Rustoleum has been ok, but not "rock hard" to prevent any damage from dropped tools, etc...............

what do you advise??? Any input on pros/cons of these systems or other recommendation is much appreciated.

thx

 

[Ultimate Floors by Rhino]

Polyaspartic is a much better product than epoxy. I do not have any information for you on the rustolium kits though so I can't say yay or nay about them. As with anything floor prep is key.

 

[thegarageguy]

Not all polyaspartics are the same..some better than others, same as epoxies...many different formulas now.

A good penetrating epoxy primer, 100% solids epoxy base coat and a 100% solids polyaspartic top coat is ideal in my opinion. Sometimes a full polyaspartic system is cost prohibitive and not necessary unless you had to reopen your business the next morning.

 

[OldNeons]

thx for input - I have a friend who does custom concrete finishes - so I have access to heavy duty walk behind grinder, and all the application tools and some expertise. Just wanting to get a sampling of opinions on the different products out there. GarageGuy - is the polyaspartic designed to be faster? We have plenty of time -not a rush on this project - it's been years in the making- looking to get the best system for the money that will hold up long term. Can anyone give me material cost comparisons for the two systems - and more pros/cons details of each please. Thanks

 

[Garage Flooring]

There is not one system that is best for each and every application, but for most garage floors for my money, I go with a full broadcast flake system with a polyurea base and top coat.

 

[OldNeons]

thanks garageflooring - could you please provide any more details on the poly urea vs poly aspartic? the rustoleum epoxy floor I did last year was a light chip - and I have seen full chip and would definitely go that way on this floor. Seems much more durable. Can anyone discuss pros/cons of the different systems and approx material costs of each please?
thanks

 

[Garage Flooring]

Its really a matter of chemistry. A polyaspartic is a subset of polyurea. Chemically speaking it is a plural component polyol with a reactant ISO consisting of various cross linkers. Practically Its a two part system to cure.

In English A Waterborne Polyurea has an Evaporation cure. Little if any VOC, MUCH lower odor, does not cure in the can.... It also keeps DIY installers out of trouble because their is no danger of not getting all of part A or part B out of the can.

I will say I am not a chemist. This is my understanding. From a practical standpoint when it comes to Polyurea it has been my experience that it goes down easier, faster, "greener" with less ways to goof it up. Its still not a cure to cancer and you still have to prep the floor -- and I for one stay away from any coating that advertises little or no prep.

This forum though is full of good coating experts with great products and everyone has their own insights and opinions based on their experiences. There are some real coating experts here... Thats all they do. My biggest pieces of advice (1) prep prep prep and (2) buy from someone active on the forum because when it comes down to it its all about getting the support you need to do the job right.

 

[thegarageguy]

Again, I like and we regularly apply a chip system that includes, self priming base coat, full broadcast and polyaspartic sealer. If the concrete is real dusty and porous we use a good penetrating and bonding primer. If there is moisture present, we use a special water proofing primer.

Yes the Polysapartic is faster setting and curing than epoxies and polys

 

[Ultimate Floors by Rhino]

Again, I like and we regularly apply a chip system that includes, self priming base coat, full broadcast and polyaspartic sealer. If the concrete is real dusty and porous we use a good penetrating and bonding primer. If there is moisture present, we use a special water proofing primer.

Yes the Polysapartic is faster setting and curing than epoxies and polys

Add to that polyaspartic has a higher gloss retension and UV protection than epoxies.

 

[thegarageguy]

Add to that polyaspartic has a higher gloss retension and UV protection than epoxies.

generally yes but not in all cases

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Polyaspartic is best kept for professionals like Garage Guy, it kicks quick and is costly in comparison to other solutions.
I will say ditto to the system he described.

 

[OldNeons]

thanks for the more detailed explanations - I like to see the nuts and bolts behind everything! Can anyone give more specifics on recommended base coats -and when to use a self priming base coat vs apply a separate primer. Also more info on the grip additives - are they as necessary on a full chip floor? We mixed shark grip or similar into our clear coat on a broadcast chip epoxy floor (about 5 little bottles for 1200 ft) and it is still dangerously slick when wet. Without starting a battle here - who can recommend what product brands and why? Thanks again guys!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Honestly, in this forum you have a bunch of great guys with great products. Scotty, Gene and the list goes on and on. Buy from one of the guys that you see active in the forum with honest answers and you can't go wrong.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Thin coat of urethane with aluminum oxide broadcasted in and back rolled.
You may have applied your coating a bit thicker than your anti skid media could cope with.