I will be painting a frame and firewall with epoxy primer. I have all the parts stripped down to bare metal and ready to spray. Most of the epoxy paints I'm finding however are quite pricey with the exception of Eastwood which has mixed reviews. So what else is out there and who are the better priced distributors?
Epoxy primer opinions and options
- Thread starter 472scout
- Start date
astroracer
Well-known member
You are going to have to pay to play... Check out SPI. Their quality is excellant and you can be sure you have a good product.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!pricing/c20uv
Mark
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!pricing/c20uv
Mark
DEllis
Well-known member
I've used SPI and Tamco with good results and both are cheaper than the 'main brands'
Tamco can be had in quarts from autobody101.com for good prices.
Duncan
Tamco can be had in quarts from autobody101.com for good prices.
Duncan
pancho400cid
Well-known member
Disclaimer: I'm a total bodywork noob
If you are looking at lower priced options, I used TRANSTAR 2K epoxy primer, and I thought it was awesome. The issue there is it's the only epoxy primer I've ever sprayed so... there's that.
I sprayed gray inside my 78 Trans Am and black on the firewall. the firewall looks good enough to me that I thought about leaving it - but some say primer might oxidize, etc and so I decided to top coat it
Web Link:
https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Refinish/Primers-Sealers/2K-Epoxy-Primer-Sealer
A pic of the T/A:
If you are looking at lower priced options, I used TRANSTAR 2K epoxy primer, and I thought it was awesome. The issue there is it's the only epoxy primer I've ever sprayed so... there's that.
I sprayed gray inside my 78 Trans Am and black on the firewall. the firewall looks good enough to me that I thought about leaving it - but some say primer might oxidize, etc and so I decided to top coat it
Web Link:
https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Refinish/Primers-Sealers/2K-Epoxy-Primer-Sealer
A pic of the T/A:
buckbowhunterboy
Active member
You could try summit ' s brand in your choice of gray white or black. I used it to spray my sandblasted frame and think it came out pretty good.
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FANTM58
Well-known member
Im using ShopLine Epoxy primer fofr my project, and it seems to be good project.
but Im no professional and have no other experience for comparison.
but Im no professional and have no other experience for comparison.
FANTM58
Well-known member
oops
Last edited:
ScottsGT
Well-known member
SPI
Jazz1
Well-known member
Falcon67
Well-known member
I shoot with Dupont Fulthane and use whatever product is in their paint line. Putting a top coat on the foreign primer is kinda asking for trouble with the top coats.
mikhett
Well-known member
SPI for me! Ive used it on my last two projects!
countrysquire
Well-known member
SPI
Damn, I wish the paint on my red '66 GT looked that good.
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Thanks for all the replies.
I looked at SPI and it's $200 for a gallon of primer and the catalyst. This is for the frame and firewall that will see a lot of road miles so I'm looking for durability at a good price, not for the super shine of a show car. It will get top coated.
You guys that used Tamco, Transtech, and Utech what did it cost you and how is it holding up?
The Summit racing primer is really cheap. I'll check that out.
RFLD213, the only masterseries paint I found was a paint over rust type product, not a epoxy?
I looked at SPI and it's $200 for a gallon of primer and the catalyst. This is for the frame and firewall that will see a lot of road miles so I'm looking for durability at a good price, not for the super shine of a show car. It will get top coated.
You guys that used Tamco, Transtech, and Utech what did it cost you and how is it holding up?
The Summit racing primer is really cheap. I'll check that out.
RFLD213, the only masterseries paint I found was a paint over rust type product, not a epoxy?
I have used the epoxy primer from Summit Racing with great results. I have painted 4 cars in the past 5 years by grinding the old paint off, applying the epoxy, then the 2k, sanded that, then the base and clear. I had two fenders from a utility trailer that was covered with 100% rust. Sanded all the loose rust off and brushed on the epoxy and it still looks good after three years. Amazing.
I have had problems with it if you try to apply your top coats too soon. I would spray 2 coats of epoxy with an hour dry time between coats, and let that dry over night, then spray what ever top coat you are using. Otherwise you may have solvents bleed thru your top coat causing a lot of problems.
You can also use this as a sealer by adding some reducer to the mix. Spray it when you have a minimum temperature of 70 degrees during application, and 12 hours after. The recoat window is 4 days so you have plenty of time to spray your top coats without sanding.
I have had problems with it if you try to apply your top coats too soon. I would spray 2 coats of epoxy with an hour dry time between coats, and let that dry over night, then spray what ever top coat you are using. Otherwise you may have solvents bleed thru your top coat causing a lot of problems.
You can also use this as a sealer by adding some reducer to the mix. Spray it when you have a minimum temperature of 70 degrees during application, and 12 hours after. The recoat window is 4 days so you have plenty of time to spray your top coats without sanding.
ZRX61
Well-known member
I've seen that stuff fail inside 12 months.. including the one time I used it.
kgp50
Member
I'm a real fan of SPI's epoxy primer as well. The quality is superb. And if you're just shooting the firewall and frame, you shouldn't need more than a quart of primer and the same of activator, for the 1:1 mix required. About $70 total at today's price, I think.
VDubJoe
Well-known member
I have used Master series coatings on a few things. Rust remover and prep works great. So does their Master coat- ag111 chassis black. Check out their site. Good prices.
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/
I'VE had good luck with this:
http://smartshoppersinc.com/autobod...rker_dtm_enduro_epoxy_primer_gallon_gray.html
and this
http://smartshoppersinc.com/autobod...ivator_for_ep610-_ep611-_-_ep612_gallons.html.
Some epoxies require a wait period after mixing before you can spray. Also some are 2:1 or 4:1 mix. I like this one because you can mix, stir and spray, no waiting. And it's 1:1, easy measuring.
But, it is a little more expensive than summit.
http://smartshoppersinc.com/autobod...rker_dtm_enduro_epoxy_primer_gallon_gray.html
and this
http://smartshoppersinc.com/autobod...ivator_for_ep610-_ep611-_-_ep612_gallons.html.
Some epoxies require a wait period after mixing before you can spray. Also some are 2:1 or 4:1 mix. I like this one because you can mix, stir and spray, no waiting. And it's 1:1, easy measuring.
But, it is a little more expensive than summit.
CamarosRus
Well-known member
Gallon of SPI Epoxy and Activator is closer to $180
including FREE shipping and NO Sales Tax..........
SPI..........is the best value in Auto Body Coatings
BEST VALUE meaning Quality and Price
including FREE shipping and NO Sales Tax..........
SPI..........is the best value in Auto Body Coatings
BEST VALUE meaning Quality and Price
Angelfire
Well-known member
Another vote for SPI. Brilliant stuff, cheaper cost wise, and fantastic customer service if you need it.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
HMCFab9
Well-known member
I've always used PPG & I have been very happy with it.
Their cheaper line is Omni & the epoxy from them is pretty decent.
I have used that with no problems.
Some will recommend that you use the same line of materials beginning to end, but as long as you stick with urethane type products, you should be ok. (No lacquer stuff!)
Their cheaper line is Omni & the epoxy from them is pretty decent.
I have used that with no problems.
Some will recommend that you use the same line of materials beginning to end, but as long as you stick with urethane type products, you should be ok. (No lacquer stuff!)
RobSmith
Banned
Its easy...Stick with the same brand all the way through ( pick the best you can afford) and make sure your preparation is perfect. Cleanliness is Godliness in painting.
Take your time and make it right.
Take your time and make it right.
ScottsGT
Well-known member
Sticking with the same brand? To a certain point. No problem mixing brands on epoxy base the a different brand 2K primer and a different brand basecoat and another brand clear coat. But don't mix brands on catalysts and what they go with. Compatable products, yes. When I painted my Mustang I used all SPI 2K primers and epoxy primer and top clear coats because I was sold on their product line and customer service. It had been 25 years since I did this professionally and the owner of the company published his personal cell number to call him 24/7 if you have a question or run into a problem. But I used ProSpray red basecoat and PPG white basecoat for the stripes. And I used SPI reducer for both basecoat colors. You just have to make sure you have the correct reactive or non reactive reducer for the job you are doing.
Spraying epoxy base and then top coating it with primer is a critical window. Too soon, it will wrinkle the epoxy base. Too late and the epoxy loses its surface adhesion qualities and you have to sand it first. This is also a critical point where you have to use correct materials. Spray lacquer primer on fresh, but cured for 24 hours epoxy, and I'm sure you could be in for a disaster.
Sticking with manufacturers for all products is good for one thing only, warranty coverage. And if you are not a professional shop that can prove you have manufacturers training, it's not going to do you any good anyway.
Another tip I'll throw out there. Your surface prep cleaner. Shy away from the solvent based ones and go with alcohol based, especially of you have any fiberglass or plastic parts. The solvents can get into those surfaces and take hours or days to evaporate out. Once the paint is on top, you're stuck with those nasty chemicals under the paint where they will sit there and form bubbles. Alcohol based is slower to dry and it attracts moisture out of the air, so you have to give yourself more time between cleaning and spraying, but it is safer under the paint.
Spraying epoxy base and then top coating it with primer is a critical window. Too soon, it will wrinkle the epoxy base. Too late and the epoxy loses its surface adhesion qualities and you have to sand it first. This is also a critical point where you have to use correct materials. Spray lacquer primer on fresh, but cured for 24 hours epoxy, and I'm sure you could be in for a disaster.
Sticking with manufacturers for all products is good for one thing only, warranty coverage. And if you are not a professional shop that can prove you have manufacturers training, it's not going to do you any good anyway.
Another tip I'll throw out there. Your surface prep cleaner. Shy away from the solvent based ones and go with alcohol based, especially of you have any fiberglass or plastic parts. The solvents can get into those surfaces and take hours or days to evaporate out. Once the paint is on top, you're stuck with those nasty chemicals under the paint where they will sit there and form bubbles. Alcohol based is slower to dry and it attracts moisture out of the air, so you have to give yourself more time between cleaning and spraying, but it is safer under the paint.