Hi All, First off I want to say I really lucked up finding this site. Your expertise has been invaluable for my epoxy project and while it hasn't been easy so far, Im sure this forum has saved me dozens of hours. So I've done all the prep work (diama grinding, acid etching, and filling in cracks/holes) to prepare putting down an epoxy floor. However, the night I finished patching the holes in the concrete it rained and their was some moisture coming up through the concrete making it damp in a few areas. (Pictures Below) Is there any type of moisture barrier or anything I can put down before the epoxy floor? Or do I need to look into other types of flooring? I don't really like the rubber tile look so any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Epoxy project/moisture
- Thread starter tbspivey
- Start date
kd3pc
Well-known member
got to solve the moisture problem first...perhaps landscaping or slope of that landscape outside or installing a french drain or similar system.
one of the epoxy folks will comment on what options they see,
one of the epoxy folks will comment on what options they see,
We carry a product that is both a self priming coating that you can fleck into and a moisture barrier. Then, just apply a topcoat to protect it.
The nice thing about this product is that it is pigmented and eliminates the need for an additional coat. The floor needs to be aggressively grinded or shot blasted for adhesion. While the cost of this product is not inexpensive, it avoids problems, and eliminates the cost of vapor barriers which can run alone north of $1.00/sq ft.
Also you should test your moisture level with a moisture test kit just to make 100% sure you are not over your coating choice's limits.
See https://armorpoxy.com/products/spartacote-vapor-barrier-epoxy-clear-tintable-2-gal/
If you don't use this, then you would need to use a separate clear moisture barrier epoxy, and then start coating over that. You wouldn't need a primer since the moisture barrier acts as a primer.
The nice thing about this product is that it is pigmented and eliminates the need for an additional coat. The floor needs to be aggressively grinded or shot blasted for adhesion. While the cost of this product is not inexpensive, it avoids problems, and eliminates the cost of vapor barriers which can run alone north of $1.00/sq ft.
Also you should test your moisture level with a moisture test kit just to make 100% sure you are not over your coating choice's limits.
See https://armorpoxy.com/products/spartacote-vapor-barrier-epoxy-clear-tintable-2-gal/
If you don't use this, then you would need to use a separate clear moisture barrier epoxy, and then start coating over that. You wouldn't need a primer since the moisture barrier acts as a primer.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed with the gent giving advice about solving the problem.
Do a survey of your property, gutters, drainage, etc....
A moisture vapor barrier, like Aqua-Dike, can be employed but the problem must be dealt with prior.
Armorproxy, a few questions.. what type of topcoat would normally be put on top of this? Also, I have seen the moisture test kits. Did you mean doing this after the spartacote vapor barrier? Im interested in this option but its new to me so any explanation would be very helpful. Also if you have any pictures of a floor with this setup I would love to see. Thanks!
We would recommend Spartacote clear over the moisture barrier epoxy. Test for moisture before you do anything so we can get the reading.
We don't have any particular photos but the coating doesn't look any different than a standard coating, basically they all look similar.
One comment is that to use a moisture barrier coating the floor must be shot blasted or grinded with a #16 diamonds or lower as a rough profile is required.
The short answer is this is like a regular epoxy floor, just different materials and some extra prep.
Thanks!
We don't have any particular photos but the coating doesn't look any different than a standard coating, basically they all look similar.
One comment is that to use a moisture barrier coating the floor must be shot blasted or grinded with a #16 diamonds or lower as a rough profile is required.
The short answer is this is like a regular epoxy floor, just different materials and some extra prep.
Thanks!
Sounds great! We used the Diama removal tool from Home Depot. Any idea if this would be enough? Another note about the moisture, it seems to only happen during spring and fall mornings when the ground is cool but air outside is hot. We live in South Georgia so get a lot of humidity. Long story short, is it possible the moisture is condensing out of the air, as it might on the outside of a cold water pipe? If this were the case would it just form on the outside of the epoxy as opposed to coming through the concrete?
Hi
5.2 is too high for a standard epoxy. Please contact us directly at below so we can send you alternatives and pricing.
We carry a great moisture barrier epoxy that is tinted unlike most which are clear so it avoids the cost of an additional coat. You can fleck into it and then topcoat it.
https://armorpoxy.com/products/spartacote-vapor-barrier-epoxy-clear-tintable-2-gal/
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5.2 is too high for a standard epoxy. Please contact us directly at below so we can send you alternatives and pricing.
We carry a great moisture barrier epoxy that is tinted unlike most which are clear so it avoids the cost of an additional coat. You can fleck into it and then topcoat it.
https://armorpoxy.com/products/spartacote-vapor-barrier-epoxy-clear-tintable-2-gal/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cash68
Keeper Of Rotor Hill
You need a moisture barrier top coat prior to epoxy. I would prep/grind the entire floor, then run a dehumidifier for a few days to get it as dry as possible, then top coat with a moisture blocker like this, it's what I used and it's only $17 a gallon or so at HD:
Once that dries, then do the epoxy coat.
Once that dries, then do the epoxy coat.
We would use caution on the Rustoleum product as a 100% cure-all since it is an inexpensive (meaning it's mostly water) penetrating sealer which breathes and they don't publish how much moisture it can 'hold back'. If a project has a high moisture problem, the Rustoleum product, while helpful, may not fix the issue.
Always best to measure with moisture test kits, and then pick the proper product. Most high quality epoxy-type moisture barriers can hold back up to the low 20's in lbs/1000 sq ft/24 hours. True moisture barrier products are not penetrating.
Readings over 4 should be treated. Below 4 is usually ok.
Always best to measure with moisture test kits, and then pick the proper product. Most high quality epoxy-type moisture barriers can hold back up to the low 20's in lbs/1000 sq ft/24 hours. True moisture barrier products are not penetrating.
Readings over 4 should be treated. Below 4 is usually ok.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The serious material for this purpose is not available at ANY retail shops.
It is expensive because it works.
It is expensive because it works.
Legacy is 100% correct. One of our Techs reached out to Rustoleum Tech Dept and this was the response on their product. To be honest, we aren't sure why they even call it moisture barrier. Liquids won't fill cracks either so this 'theory' seems odd to us, but thought we would pass this along so as Members have reasonable expectations for what they purchase.
Moisture Stop is a solution designed to harden and densify the concrete. It has no hold back of MVT properties, but in theory will help seal cracks or porous areas of the concrete that would allow the passage of moisture.
Moisture Stop is a solution designed to harden and densify the concrete. It has no hold back of MVT properties, but in theory will help seal cracks or porous areas of the concrete that would allow the passage of moisture.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Good Lawd! They are pushing densifier as MVB??
What is next?
What is next?
Shea
Well-known member
Yeah, it's a carry-over from RockSolid.
Looking ad the SDS sheet for this product this basically seems to be a low 15% solids (85%water) densifier they are passing off as a moisture barrier. Not that it won't help, but don't expect much from it.
Classic case of you get what you pay for.
Classic case of you get what you pay for.
cash68
Keeper Of Rotor Hill
It's the only thing I could find locally. So far it's been working great for me. YMMV.
JStar4
Well-known member
I use a meter for moisture testing. What % do you guys follow for to put down the vapor barrier? I was told anything over 6% on my meter needs it
What type of meter are you using as the meters with the pins are for wood, not concrete, and will not give an accurate reading on concrete. There are no 'meters' to instantly or accurately measure concrete moisture directly to our knowledge.
Electronic RH% probes that the slab gets drilled and the RH probe which looks like a shotgun shell is inserted and then you wait 1-2 days (the reason is that the drilling of the hole for the probe creates heat and drives the moisture away, so you need to let it settle back after it cools) to see the reading with a reader that is inserted are good and acceptable. Readings over 75% need remediation according to industry experts.
These kits cost in the hundreds are are usually only used by contractors due to their cost.
https://www.wagnermeters.com/concrete-moisture/
If you are using this type of probe, 6% is super low. If you are using a pin type, wood RH meter it would be the incorrect application for this type of instrument, and the readings not to be relied on.
The two industry acceptable methods of measuring moisture are the Wagner-type electronic sensors, and the calcium chloride test kits.
Here is another link from Wagner's website about reading, waiting times, etc.
https://www.wagnermeters.com/24-hours-rh-testing/
Electronic RH% probes that the slab gets drilled and the RH probe which looks like a shotgun shell is inserted and then you wait 1-2 days (the reason is that the drilling of the hole for the probe creates heat and drives the moisture away, so you need to let it settle back after it cools) to see the reading with a reader that is inserted are good and acceptable. Readings over 75% need remediation according to industry experts.
These kits cost in the hundreds are are usually only used by contractors due to their cost.
https://www.wagnermeters.com/concrete-moisture/
If you are using this type of probe, 6% is super low. If you are using a pin type, wood RH meter it would be the incorrect application for this type of instrument, and the readings not to be relied on.
The two industry acceptable methods of measuring moisture are the Wagner-type electronic sensors, and the calcium chloride test kits.
Here is another link from Wagner's website about reading, waiting times, etc.
https://www.wagnermeters.com/24-hours-rh-testing/
JStar4
Well-known member
TRAMEX CMEXPERT II DIGITAL CONCRETE MOISTURE METER - CMEX 2 is what i use
Looks interesting but we don't see how this meter can give an accurate reading by just holding it on the concrete since the moisture is coming from the concrete, or is inside it.
ASTM approved tests take a minimum of 48 hours.
ASTM approved tests take a minimum of 48 hours.
JStar4
Well-known member
Its checks into the concrete from electrode to electrode 3/4 an inch deep. But with any moisture test it can be doff depending on the season, time of day ect. If any slab shows over 6% i highly recommend to the customer a moisture vapor barrier. I use hp spartacote mvb