Epoxy question...

[lucky_topher]

I've been looking at putting the rustoleum epoxyshield down in my garage (20x20) and finally foudn this forum to read up on it.... now the stuff i've been looking at was the $60/pack rustoleum epoxyshield... i've read that people say the waterbased one is not that good, but considering i'm not doing a lot of wrenching nor do we live in cold climate (texas)... i just want to have a nice looking garage, and a nice floor, something better than bare concrete...

the house was built in 1994, the garage is actually very clean for being 14 years old, but needs some cleaning a bit...

now the thing that concerns me is i'm seeing about grinding, etching, etc... from my understanding, the grinding is really only necessary if you have a sealant on your concrete? i'm pretty sure i do not... so then i'm only looking at the acid etch...

but, the description on the epoxyshield (seen several places, here's copy/paste from http://garage-toys.com/epoxyshield.html ) says:

Easy to apply
Water-based for low odor and easy clean-up
Kit includes concentrated surface cleaner - no muriatic acid etching needed
Environmentally friendly
Durable and time saving one-coat application - no primer needed

....

so what's the word on this?

 

[roger55]

The thing I don't like about the Rustoleum is that it is semi-gloss. It tends to get tire marks on it. A gloss is much better for that. A better choice for a water based epoxy is from Griot's Garage. It is a gloss and it is a 2 coat system. Really Rustoleum will look better with 2 coats anyway. The only water based I would consider for myself would be the Griot's. Forget UCoat-it. It is a 40% solids water based epoxy at $90 per gallon.

Also, the Rustoleum is a water based epoxy that is only about 40 percent solids. So, if you apply it at 6 mils thick, after drying it will only be about 2.5 mils. So, even with 2 coats you are going to be about at 5 mils. You can buy 100% solids epoxy for about $75 a gallon. So, the cost when you compare how much product is on the floor after curing is more expensive with the Rustoleum.

You can check out EpoxyCoat or EpoxyGuard. They have a single coat 100% solids product designed to be about 10 mils thick. I haven't used it but a few on this board have. You can get it cheaper at Costco.

I think the Cadillac system is the one from Wolverine. It's a primer/color/clear system so you are looking at 3 coats but will have a floor with about a 25 mil thickness of epoxy. I think I am going to do the majority of my shop with this but maybe do some of the smaller rooms with EpoxyGuard.

IMO, the one drawback to 100% solids is that it takes more planning to do your job since the pot life of the mixed product is so short. With a short working time, you've got to have everything ready or the product will start hardening before you get done.

In any case, I wouldn't use the colored flakes unless you were going to seal them with a clear.

You can acid etch or grind. It's your choice. Both are messy jobs.

I am in the process of grinding my new floor and it has been a learning process.

In my last garage, I used muratic acid but had a heck of a time getting it to etch evenly. And the fumes are terrible.

The stuff that comes with the Rustoleum kit I have never used. But it's hard to imagine it does any etching.

 

[gotta56forme]

Lucky_topher,

I work with someone who used the water-based Rustoleum garage coating in his garage. He uses it as a woodshop. He did it four years ago, and is still happy. He had one minor adhesion problem area and blames himself for his 'hasty' prep (his own words). I did alot of reading on this forum before choosing and applying the 2-part epoxy Rustoleum coating a few weeks ago. In part, I sensed a 'you get what you pay for' situation with the choices. With your 20x20 garage, which is probably a one kit application (per coat). Do the math for water-based kit, then do it again for the 2-part epoxy kit. The cost difference may not be as much as you think. The etching process uses different products and my guess is most would consider the muriatic to be better than the water-based product's 'citrus-etch'.

Also, it's easy to test for a sealer on your floor. Drip water on it, in different areas. If it doesn't bead, you probably don't have sealer. Also, you can check to see how 'wet' your concrete is. Per Rustoleum's instructions, tape a 2'x2' piece of clear plastic to the floor with duct tape. Seal on all edges. If no water-vapor appears after 24 hours, you probably have a 'dry' floor.