Epoxy vs Polyurea or Polyaspartic?

[kendogg]

Moving my shop and wanting to do the floors right the first time. Automotive repair shop, so you know it's going to get used & abused. I need something thats going to last, but can be touched up as needed. I will not be grinding the floor, but have the pressure washer tools to clean it well. I believe the floor was clear sealed at one point, but I won't actually have keys until next weekend. From what I've been looking at, I'll be ~2500 square feet, and looking at close to $1/foot for the Polyaspartics. I'm hesitant to use epoxies since all of my experience with epoxies is with them simply curdling with gas or coming off with the floor scrubber.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Well installed, true epoxies do not curdle from fuels but might change color after enough exposure. This is why we topcoat them with urethane or polyaspartic.

Today, you can have your choice of all three including combinations.

As long as your wear coat is urethane, polyurea or polyaspartic, you should be in good shape.

 

[Armorpoxy]

We disagree that epoxy would not be a good choice. A good, properly installed epoxy system like our ArmorUltra Job on Pallet Kits should give excellent life and would not peel or hold up properly.

We have tens of thousands of epoxy installations in auto shops without issues. Of course nothing lasts forever, and any surface can be damaged if aggressively hit.

We also have more and more commercial shops and firehouses using our www.supratile.com solid PVC Interlocking tiles. The nice thing about them is that in the unlikely event that a tile got damaged say by a dropped engine or trans, the tile can be popped out and replaced in minutes without the need for an epoxy technician.

 

[cash68]

If it's a dirty floor I don't think pressure washing will be enough. Years of grime and oil will clog those pores for sure. Grind it or don't bother doing it, because I don't think it will stick.

 

[Armorpoxy]