Epoxy VS Stain

[mhoss44]

So, I have the garage floor covering kits, two of them for my 24x24 space. Thinking of not using the epoxy, but getting stain for it. I have tan and green on the walls, and I am thinking the darker green for the floor is a bad idea. The stain would be lighter, and from reading other threads on here, the stain lasts longer, looks great, and is easier to put down. What say you all ? Thanks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[mhoss44]

Also, I can use the kits in the house garage, the color would be great with repainted white walls, which is the next project, so not wasting the money.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Steevo]

I used this product on my shop floor, and it sealed the concrete well, and has held up well so far (4 years).

http://www.radonseal.com/color-sealer/color-sealer.htm

 

[mhoss44]

Steve, the Radon seems to be a popular brand, must be good. Thanks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[WVBrady]

I used this product on my shop floor, and it sealed the concrete well, and has held up well so far (4 years).

http://www.radonseal.com/color-sealer/color-sealer.htm

I couldn't find out how much coverage 5 gallons. What was your experience?

 

[JoeMayo]

sub'n

 

[724tim]

Coverage

One saturating application is usually sufficient for poured concrete, indoors or outdoors. A second application may be needed to waterproof very porous substrate or to achieve a more intense color, particularly with lighter stains.DO NOT OVER APPLY! The stain must be able to absorb into the surface instead of leaving a surface film.

CONCRETE SLABS/FLOORS – approximately 200–225 sq. ft./gallon or 1,000–1,150 sq. ft. per 5-gal. pail.

OUTDOOR CONCRETE AND POROUS MASONRY – approximately 150–200 sq. ft./gallon or 750–1,000 sq. ft. per 5-gal.

Coverage varies greatly depending on porosity.

 

[724tim]

I couldn't find out how much coverage 5 gallons. What was your experience?

Coverage

One saturating application is usually sufficient for poured concrete, indoors or outdoors. A second application may be needed to waterproof very porous substrate or to achieve a more intense color, particularly with lighter stains.DO NOT OVER APPLY! The stain must be able to absorb into the surface instead of leaving a surface film.

CONCRETE SLABS/FLOORS – approximately 200–225 sq. ft./gallon or 1,000–1,150 sq. ft. per 5-gal. pail.

OUTDOOR CONCRETE AND POROUS MASONRY – approximately 150–200 sq. ft./gallon or 750–1,000 sq. ft. per 5-gal.

Coverage varies greatly depending on porosity.

 

[724tim]

color options for radonseal

http://www.radonseal.com/color-sealer/images/earth-colors.jpg

http://www.radonseal.com/color-sealer/images/tropical-colors.jpg

 

[C2 Turbo]

Is staining as reliable/durable as an epoxy especially for a garage application?

 

[dogdas]

Is staining as reliable/durable as an epoxy especially for a garage application?

I am going with a Dow Corning Epoxy. I use a contractor on projects that does restoration, preservation and plenty of floor coatings inside and out. One of the workers does plenty of side jobs so no experimenting on my stuff for me, leave it to the pros. The epoxy jobs that they have done are in heavy industrial buildings and let me tell you that when done correctly that **** is tough like diamonds. Acid stain is cool but the only thing protecting it is a high solids solvent based sealer. You may want to do a clear epoxy top coat but if you are going with a 2 component product why not do a total epoxy. Of course you can gouge an epoxy floor with a 20' x 4" piece of "C" channel dragging across it but if you are picky you can polish out the scuffs with little effort. If you have the means install Epoxy and none of that garbage they sell online but get a professional to get the right product for you. NeoGuard is a product that will run you about $2/Sf for materials but you have to be certified in the install to buy it. I am sure there is a NeoGuard installer in your area if you want to go for broke or the same price as that plastic RaceDeck.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Is staining as reliable/durable as an epoxy especially for a garage application?

Stain imparts a color only. The sealer you choose gives you the durability.
Yes, there are extremely durable, epoxy, urethane and even Polyaspartic sealers.

This is a DIY project. Arm yourself with knowledge, good products and good support.

 

[C2 Turbo]

Stain imparts a color only. The sealer you choose gives you the durability.
Yes, there are extremely durable, epoxy, urethane and even Polyaspartic sealers.

This is a DIY project. Arm yourself with knowledge, good products and good support.

Epoxy: My understanding is, it's a 3 step process (Base coat/epoxy/sealer), and i guess the color will come from the base coat, is that correct?

Stain: It seems like, it is a two step process (stain/clear coat) or it is a 3 step too?

Why would you choose one over the other?

I have approximately 2500 sq ft area ( 2 separate garages and a patio) that I need to cover so trying to learn the appropriate covering while still staying with in a resonable budget?

Thanks

 

[shaun oriold1]

I am going with a Dow Corning Epoxy. I use a contractor on projects that does restoration, preservation and plenty of floor coatings inside and out. One of the workers does plenty of side jobs so no experimenting on my stuff for me, leave it to the pros. The epoxy jobs that they have done are in heavy industrial buildings and let me tell you that when done correctly that **** is tough like diamonds. Acid stain is cool but the only thing protecting it is a high solids solvent based sealer. You may want to do a clear epoxy top coat but if you are going with a 2 component product why not do a total epoxy. Of course you can gouge an epoxy floor with a 20' x 4" piece of "C" channel dragging across it but if you are picky you can polish out the scuffs with little effort. If you have the means install Epoxy and none of that garbage they sell online but get a professional to get the right product for you. NeoGuard is a product that will run you about $2/Sf for materials but you have to be certified in the install to buy it. I am sure there is a NeoGuard installer in your area if you want to go for broke or the same price as that plastic RaceDeck.

There is sooooo much bad advice in this paragraph, and just plain wrong infomation, I dont even know where to start!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

There is sooooo much bad advice in this paragraph, and just plain wrong infomation, I dont even know where to start!

I skipped it. Trying to be more zen.

 

[mhoss44]

Enjoying the posts.Seems like everyone has a favorite. I went with 2 coats of Valspar Epoxy 2 part, 2 gallons each coat. Cleaned it first by light mopping with Simple Green, then the pre coating etching stuff that comes in the kit. Followed directions. I thought I was going to have use a deglosser between coats, I spoke with Crown Chemicals. Great folks there, very helpful. If you go to their website, they have some freebie new products. They will mail to you. Pretty cool. I also spoke with Valspar Customer assistance a couple of times. Great folks there also. Ended up, No Deglosser between coats. Maximum ReCoat time is five days. So after three days, I put down the second coat, Tile Green with Granite flakes. I think the floor looks great, I May put down a sealant for sealing and shine. Will post pics when I can get some. 576 sq feet for about 250 dollars, and some cheap rollers. I saw where someone was asking if we would use the same product again, and I sure would. I learned a lot. But I think the next project is our garage, and it will get stain.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk