Epoxy w/ infloor heat

[thedoc]

My contractor screwed up my saw cuts on the floor. Said the guys didnt catch that the saw was dragging or something. It chipped out really bad. Anyway he filled in the cracks with some type of filler and told me that he was going to buy some epoxy to put on the floor. I said great because that was my plan and now I dont have to pay for it now.
Well he talked with his supplier and they said that epoxy over infloor heat would not work. I just want to know if this is **** so he can go with a cheaper route. He said he is going to order an acryllic sealer/paint for the floor.
Its new concrete that Ive washed with just water and brush twice. I will acid wash and then roll on the paint.
Does anyone have experience with acryllic paint and how its held up to oil spills and rolling jacks? Pics would be great. Id rather have nothing on it than to have chipping paint.
The paint is coming from an industrial supply company. Not big box stores.
Thanks for all the help
Doc

 

[nate379]

They are full of ****.

Many of the air craft hangers we have (Air Force) are radiant heat and they are all epoxied. I'd like to know what exactly it is because that stuff is super tough! Spinning chained up tires on it barely even marks it!

 

[AlphaGarage]

Radiant floors are no problem for good epoxies. We have installs in a manufacturing facility that has huge drive in autoclaves. Don't know the exact temp of the vehicles and loads going in and out, but it's up there beyond what a radiant floor can reach.

 

[thedoc]

Thanks for the info. I think I might hang on to this paint and try and sell on the side unless I get some users that like the product. I should know exactly what it is and who makes it here in a bit. I love the looks of the wolverine floors. Labor intensive but great looking finish.
I might be calling you Fred to inquire about your product and the correct steps to do it.
Thanks again fellas
doc

 

[AlphaGarage]

Our system is a bit more labor intensive, but not that much.

Prep for any coating is really the same, ours is no different. The difference with our system is that we recommend 3 coats.

A lot of other products have an all-in-one single coating. Whereas we have a primer, a pigmented top coat, and a clear coat. This is because each coating is specially formulated to perform one task. If they could design a single product that would all 3 tasks as well as the specialized products - but with one coat - clearly we'd offer that in a heartbeat. But that's not currently the case.

WCC probably has north of 1,000 different resins. A lot of them are for tank linings, pipes, and manufacturing facilities, places where there are harsh chemicals and a lot of extreme environmental conditions. And many of those coatings are applied on top of a primer coat of BondTite 1101. It's made to adhere to a wide variety of surfaces under a wider variety of conditions - and performs very well.

And then there's the clear coat. I think anytime you have colored flakes they should be protected by a clear coat. No flake is a durable as epoxy, well at least a good epoxy. So left exposed they're subject to damage, and collecting dirt. So cover 'em.

Also the clear coat is a bit of a sacrificial coating. Over a few years you may want to freshen it up. That can be easily done, you can even just do the heavy wear areas. It's not as easy to freshen up the pigmented top coat without doing the entire coat.

The firsy coat is the hardest coat, additional coats are being applied over a non-porous and very smooth surface - they glide on. Yes, it will add a few hours to the project, but not really that much additional effort.

There are a lot of floors out there that have just a single coat of LiquaTile 1184. It seems to perform as well, or better than, the other single coat systems. But considering that either way will involve the same preparation work, I think it's best to take the extra steps and also put down the best primer and clear coat.