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Epoxycoat: 18 month review

radchad3

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Hello everyone! I have had my epoxycoat garage finish down for 18 months and I thought now would be a good time to provide an extensive review of the product along with some pros and cons and things I may have done differently. First off, here is the link to pictures and the process I used when the floor was first epoxied:

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112332

Before getting into some of the issues that I have with the floor I want to say that I have been happy with the responses from Christine regarding the several issues I have had. This review is not to degrade epoxycoat but to give a review of my experiences. For me, the only other floor solution would have been porcelein tile but was way too labor intensive for me to do alone. I do use my garage quite a bit including oil changes, tire rotations, and other things that require a jack and multiple fluids being on the floor. The floor has handled the jack and most fluids without issues at all.

Now on to my review!

Issue #1: Stain from gasoline. This occurred about 10 months after the floor was down. My ATV had leaked a small amount of gasoline while on the floor. I had just pulled it out that day and didnt notice a stain then so I know the gas was sitting for less than 12 hours. If you look at the picture there is a small area and then a much larger area around it that is much easier to see in person. I called Christine up and she suggested I sand the area and re-clear it. She sent the materials out at no charge. I did that and the floor looked as good as new. Still, I was a little perturbed that the floor was not as resistant to gas as I assumed it would be. Customer service here was good.

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Issue #2: Yellowing. About 1.5 months after the floor was down I noticed that the threshold was starting to yellow. Now, in all fairness I was told that at some point the epoxy would yellow but was told that the clear coat was much more resilient and that it may eventually yellow. The only reason I went out past the door was because I had significant pitting that needed to be filled and painted (see original thread). I was concerned about how fast it yellowed, not because of the exposed threshold but more because I have a west facing garage and like to have the doors open when working. I don't want my whole floor turn yellow or have to always worry about the doors being closed. In talking with Christine she sent me out clear coat used for their countertops. I cant remember what is was called but it is supposed to be more UV resistant. I sanded down the threshold, repainted, and re-cleared. I did this in the fall. So far there is no yellowing but will have to wait until the hot sun of summer arrives to get an idea if it truly is resistant.



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Issue #3: Tire marks. This is one of the big issues I do have with the floor. I specifically put down the epoxy + clear because I didn't want to have tire marks. Well, I have three cars in the garage and each area has tire marks. 12 spots in total. I have tried everything to get these off. I did mention this to Christine and she said to sand this and re-clear. I have yet to do this because the original clear stained and I figure I may be wasting time trying to redo this again. My mind may change this spring and I may go ahead and do that then.

img3541as.jpg




Issue #4: Peeling. This is also another major issue with the floor. I spent a lot of time researching prior to doing my floor and decided not to skimp and have the floor professionally grinded. I was expecting the floor to be down for 10+ years and wanted to have proper adhesion. I did the wetness test etc as well prior to the job being done. Nonetheless this summer i had a 12"x12" section come up under my wife's passenger tire. Needless to say, I was disappointed. I called Christine up and again she was helpful and she sent my out the epoxy, clear, and flakes. I got things sanded down and recoated and have yet to have another problem, but I have to admit it is something that concerns me a lot for longevity.

img3464mh.jpg


Here is the floor as it looks today.





After all the issues I have had with the floor it is still a massive improvement from bare concrete and gives my garage the finished look I was going for. In general, Christine provided good CS and always sent out materials free of charge. Some of her responses were several days tardy but I know they can be busy so I tried to understand that. This review is not to downgrade epoxycoat in any way. I just wanted to put out a very real and honest review with pictures so people who are looking for a floor solution can decide if epoxy is something they want to consider.

Thank you all for your time!

Chad
 
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flyng_fool

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I did my brother's garage 5 years ago and the whole thing yellowed badly. Other than that it looks good.
 

bdamico

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This is probably one of the most useful reviews that I've seen here. Most post "it looks great 2 months later" etc. I had a different epoxy and clear. While i didn't have lift like you do, it yellowed and stained. Pretty sad and not worth the effort and money IMO because there is always the risk of it happening. That's why I tiled my second time.
 

dandan111

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I would be upset with that peeling. Sounds like Christine is going above and beyond to keep you happy. The yellowing is eye opening also.
 

4everRS

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Thank you very much for this review. Whatever the outcome would have been, it's great of you for contributing your time for the betterment of the forum. I would love to see other reviews like this of not just epoxy-coat, but other brands as well.

Thanks again.
 

Dick in Wisconsin

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Chad:

1. Any insight into what causes the tire marks? Hot tires warming the epoxy and then sinking the tread into the epoxy? Or hot/warm rubber from the tires adherring to the epoxy through heat, pressure or a both?

2. The yellowing. Do you think a different clear coat with MORE UV protection in it would make a difference? Is the yellowing a result of sunlight? or something the epoxy does over time?

3. I'm building a 1000sf garage in the spring for my race car, projects, and some storage. I plan on putting radiant heat in the floor and some kind of coating on the floor. The race car sets on jack stands, I use the jack quite a bit, I set/drop heavy stuff on the floor. Oil, gear lube, bear grease all get on the floor. Do you have any insight into how the epoxy will hold up?

Thanks!
 

Jim B

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Good post. Your floor still looks great. Too bad about the tire marks. I'm having a similar issue but I think it will be resolved soon and will post when it is. I thougth maybe it just hi performance tires that may have caused the problems it looks like maybe have got tire marks from "everyday" tires as well. Looks like you did not use a primer. I know Epoxy Coat doesn't recommend one but I wonder if it would have helped with adhesion. Maybe try it on any more repairs that are needed. Again good review.:rocker:
 

KPSquared

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Now I'm completely sold on tile! Thanks for the in depth review. I'm just not convinced on the longevity of diy epoxy products. 1000 sq ft of tile here we come. . . Already bought the tile but this thread is great reassurance.
 

bdamico

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Chad:

1. Any insight into what causes the tire marks? Hot tires warming the epoxy and then sinking the tread into the epoxy? Or hot/warm rubber from the tires adherring to the epoxy through heat, pressure or a both?

2. The yellowing. Do you think a different clear coat with MORE UV protection in it would make a difference? Is the yellowing a result of sunlight? or something the epoxy does over time?

3. I'm building a 1000sf garage in the spring for my race car, projects, and some storage. I plan on putting radiant heat in the floor and some kind of coating on the floor. The race car sets on jack stands, I use the jack quite a bit, I set/drop heavy stuff on the floor. Oil, gear lube, bear grease all get on the floor. Do you have any insight into how the epoxy will hold up?

Thanks!

I used to think it was the tire dressing. May or may not have been. Also was surpised dog piss stained.
 
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radchad3

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Thank you all for the remarks. I hope the review helps folks!

Responses in bold.

Chad:

1. Any insight into what causes the tire marks? Hot tires warming the epoxy and then sinking the tread into the epoxy? Or hot/warm rubber from the tires adherring to the epoxy through heat, pressure or a both? I think it is hot tires staining the epoxy. The clear was supposed to prevent that but it just didn't happen. I would guess the weight of the tires has something to do with it as well. Maybe others could chime in on this one.

2. The yellowing. Do you think a different clear coat with MORE UV protection in it would make a difference? Is the yellowing a result of sunlight? or something the epoxy does over time? The yellowing is from the sunlight for sure. Christine had sent out some different clear saying it was supposed to be even more UV resistant. I cannot remember what it was called though....sorry!

3. I'm building a 1000sf garage in the spring for my race car, projects, and some storage. I plan on putting radiant heat in the floor and some kind of coating on the floor. The race car sets on jack stands, I use the jack quite a bit, I set/drop heavy stuff on the floor. Oil, gear lube, bear grease all get on the floor. Do you have any insight into how the epoxy will hold up? I think it really depends on your expectations. If you expect it to be brand new in 3 years you may be disappointed. If it is not in direct sunlight I think the yellowing wont be a big issue. Dropping tools and smaller things is not a big deal and the epoxy will hold up fine. Spills if cleaned up right away I think should be fine. If very heavy things are dropped, it may be a problem for the epoxy. Welding would be a "no" I would think but I have no experience with that on my floor.

Thanks!
 
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radchad3

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Jim B: I am unsure on the primer. Christine was also at a loss when I contacted her. You can see in the pic that there are grind marks there, but just don't know what happened with the adhesion. :(
 

bullnerd

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Thank you very much for this review. Whatever the outcome would have been, it's great of you for contributing your time for the betterment of the forum. I would love to see other reviews like this of not just epoxy-coat, but other brands as well.

Thanks again.

I agree the above comments,especially this one.I have searched for a long term review of the Legacy stuff but have not seen any.

I think I just changed my mind about epoxy also.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Gang:
I hate to be a broken record but a good primer can help prevent adhesion issues as well as out-gassing problems.

Also... a good urethane topcoat will not yellow. However, the UV light will go through the clear and still change the epoxy. Naturally, if inside as recommended this may not happen, at least not as fast.

We sell and install these systems everyday with very few issues, if any.
 

ErVikingo

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Scotty which area you serve and please pm me an idea on per foot costs. Im in SoFla. 2 garages in my new house total 2000 sq ft.

If tiles are the option, which are recommended that will withstanding jacks, dropped tools, etc.

And thanks for the very complete review!
 
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radchad3

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Thanks Scotty for chiming in. Likely one step that would have helped at least one of my issues!
 

Jimbo..

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Thanks for posting this info. My garage has a new floor in it's future and epoxy is one of the possible options. This is good to know.
 

Shea

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For the people considering epoxy and are seriously worried about the floor yellowing, there are manufacturers that make colored polyurethane coatings as well as clear. It's a great combination if you have a southern or west facing garage and keep the doors up a lot. You do need to put down an epoxy primer first however for the urethane to bond to. Like Scotty said, the primer will reduce a lot of the adhesion issues and out-gassing as well.
 
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Hagasan7

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Been lurking on here for a few months gathering research and comparing products. Thanks for a great review!

Quick question... Was the slab new?
 

slickgt1

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Yea that's why I went tile as well. At first I though Jack O was insane for recommending tile to me, but after a **** load of research, even went to a lot of local PRO epoxy install locations and it was highly disappointing. Epoxy is a hit or miss for DIY. PRO is better, but it is still not a bullet proof floor from what I keep seeing. My neighbors garage, Pro Epoxy Install, all 4 tires peeled off like that. **** customer service, so he is out of luck.

Good review. Wish you luck with however you chose to do with the floor. I know it hurts to put in so much effort, and still have a failing floor.
 

csp

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I get the same tire marks if I let any of my vehicles sit for an extended period of time. So far, mine have all come up with a little simple green and scrub brush whenever I clean the entire floor.
 

ketas47

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I see people are saying a primer could of possible helped with the good bonding of the epoxy, but..... alot of epoxy companies dont even mention anything about primer, (for example epoxycoat, rust-oleum, ect...). Correct me if Im wrong? Also so much for the proper prep,(seems like he did everthing that was required by the manufactor). Maybe it is more that you can get Bad batch of epoxy? I was also debating between epoxy and VCT and VCT looks like the way to go!!!!! Less prep and better results.
 
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FlameOut

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Very nice review, Chad! My epoxy-coat isn't quite as old as yours, and I'm having pretty much the same problems from the staining (from tires and fluids), the yellowing, and worst of all the peeling. My floor still looks MUCH better than my old plain concrete, but it certainly doesn't look as good as it did the first month or so that I applied it. I'm hoping to repair my peeling when the weather gets a little warmer (my garage is heated, but I usually keep it right around 50)

And for the above poster (JamieK), yes, I would do it again. I still get many compliments. I'm just not sure it was worth the $1100 I spent for a little under 1000 sq ft
 
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radchad3

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And the important question....Would you do it again?

I agree with the above poster. Not sure it was worth the effort/research/money as I put a lot into all three of those. With that being said, if I have no more peeling, the yellowing is improved with the new clear I would be a pretty happy camper. If I had to do it again I would give very strong consideration to tile.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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I see people are saying a primer could of possible helped with the good bonding of the epoxy, but..... alot of epoxy companies dont even mention anything about primer, (for example epoxycoat, rust-oleum, ect...). Correct me if Im wrong? Also so much for the proper prep,(seems like he did everthing that was required by the manufactor). Maybe it is more that you can get Bad batch of epoxy? I was also debating between epoxy and VCT and VCT looks like the way to go!!!!! Less prep and better results.

Like a few of the posters here, I was born into this business and I was educated by hard-core applicators who swore by the basics:
Grind or Shot-Blast for prep, prime, base coat (100% solids), top-coat(urethane).
Of course, there are other flooring systems; broadcasts, 1/4" trowel-down, urethane mortar 1/4", secondary containment, etc...

The basics are the foundation, always starting with a primer.

Ask for a pro-quote and show me a proposal without a primer element, I will show you an amateur.
 
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radchad3

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Thanks Scotty for your thoughts. Maybe Christine from epoxy-coat can explain why their system has not primer element. Certainly a valid reason as to why I am having adhesion issues. I can assure you I followed the instructions/prep to a "T" so I don't see what I could have done differently with the system that I purchased.
 

bdamico

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Thanks Scotty for your thoughts. Maybe Christine from epoxy-coat can explain why their system has not primer element. Certainly a valid reason as to why I am having adhesion issues. I can assure you I followed the instructions/prep to a "T" so I don't see what I could have done differently with the system that I purchased.

been covered on this board a few times
 

budl

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:bowdown:Thanks very much for the product review. I'm getting ready to build a garage that will be this old man's 1st & last man cave and I really appreciate hearing the real world experiences with floors, lighting, and lifts I gather from this forum.

Bud
 

4b316

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We have had epoxy in our garage for probably 20 years.Our garage burned down 5 years ago and was hot enough to melt the steel beam in the ceiling.The only place the floor was damaged was where there was something over it,car,benches etc and there it popped up the concrete,sure the epoxy was yellowed from the heat but still there.Filled in the popped places,epoxied the floor again and still in good shape after another 5 years.We run the tractor in with chains on it,weld over it,spill gas on it and project cars have set on it for a couple years now.Yes,it has yellow marks on it from chemicals,burn marks but have not had a paint failure aside from a couple spots where the concrete popped up again,just filled and reepoxied those spots.We abuse our floor terribly and still are happy with cleanup.If I was going to have a garage that I just do waxing and storage ,I might go with tile for the look and durability but don't think it would hold and not crack when we drove the trator on it with chains or the motor fell of the engine stand
 

Dick in Wisconsin

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We have had epoxy in our garage for probably 20 years ... We abuse our floor terribly and still are happy with cleanup.

What is the secret to your happiness? What product, what process, what precautions did you use?

I would think that after 20 years there have been advancement in application or product that would make today's results better? Or have we stepped backward?

I want to do this spring/summer what you back 20 years ago!
 

Stee6043

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I installed Racedeck over a 5 year young epoxy floor this past summer for a number of the issues covered on the first post.

I didn't have the yellowing nor the hard-core chipping/flaking but I experienced significant loss of gloss, some tire marking and overall general loss of that "wow" factor I had when it was brand new.

I included some photos in my install overview:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160468

If I knew what I know now I would have skipped the epoxy and gone straight for tile. My two cents only...
 

4b316

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I was a professional painter and had painted quite a few epoxy floors,everywhere from shop floors to medical labs to food prep.the biggest thing that we came across was making sure floor was clean and had some tooth after the sealer/primer was put down.We almost always used sherwin williams 2 part epoxy mix.I too would like it to look like it did when I first applied it but we abuse our floor so much,just not possible.We have had two inches of water on it from spring run off to several inches of ice when the door got left up in the same runoff. for paint that was given to me by a local contractor that does a lot of gas line work,I,m pretty happy.If I ever get to a place where I can have a storage just for my chevelle,I will put tile down(unless I talk my wife into buying me a enclosed trailer,then I will keep it in that in the winter time)
 
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BMcC

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So is it the clearcoat that yellows, or the paint beneath it? I'm planning on going with epoxy this spring. If there are color choices that don't yellow so bad, I might go with those.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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White epoxy is notorious for "ambering" a little faster than all the other colors.
All will amber a little bit over time, depending on UV light exposure.

If the clear is an epoxy, then yes it will amber.
In fact, look at clear epoxy in a bucket and you will see it is not clear. It is amber.
If the clear is urethane, poly-aspartic, etc.. it will not.

The UV cuts through these non-ambering products and gets the epoxy no matter what.

If you want a color-coat that won't amber, coat your floor with a pigmented urethane.
It will not amber.
 
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