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Above 1200 Sq/FT Ernie's Place

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

drivesitfar

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Bob: I'm not sure where you dig up all this information cause my GOOGLE FU doesn't work that good. GEESH no wonder I HATE the new lead free solder. also if you are doing a repair and have a drop or two or three of water in the pipe no telling how long it could take to get the solder to work. no wonder SHARK BITES became the GO TO FOR REPAIRS.

I wish I had the even better copper clamping tool that some plumbers use, but i've heard it costs somewhere in the range of $1500-3500 to buy it and some connections.

Storm: hope you are having a great day at the PARTY GARAGE and it sounds like you need to get there early.
 
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StormcrowAz

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Mike – So many things to do - so little time, eh? Should be a good trip and the off-road scenery is definitely worth the drive. If you’re up for some wheeling company I’d be happy to pull the side-by-side up there to run some trails. Should be quite a different experience going from the Hummer to the little car. Thanks for stopping in!


Drives – It’s a fairly quick drive for us and we’d be happy to cruise up there for lunch and see the sites with you.

Yes, Don’s Party Garage was crazy amazing. Was there only a few short hours and walked back and forth through it several times. There’s so much it’s difficult to take it all in at once, each time through you keep seeing new things you missed from the last pass. Sensory overload right out of the gate. I must say that the Corvette drew my attention more than once. A beautiful piece of machinery (sorry if I got any drool on it).

Regarding the solder – I am no expert (on anything, really) and have only done a few minor plumbing repairs, so after quite a bit of reading it seems general consensus is that the Stay-Brite #8 is supposed to be good stuff, so that’s what I got for this project.
51126296605_808ca48d3a_c.jpg


I looked at those neat clamping tools, too. And you’re right they are costly and for me not worth it for the little hobby DIY work I get into. Plus, for some reason, I seem to get a weird satisfaction from sweating copper. Maybe it’s just the working with metal, the whole process. Cutting, cleaning, melting of the solder, and a nice clean joint as your reward. Hopefully I still enjoy it by the time I’m done with this project!


Bob – No apologies necessary, it is relevant information and your posts are always welcome. Thanks for stopping by and contributing!




So yes, a good weekend spent with the Mrs. making the road trip to the Party Garage. Most of my pictures look pretty much like what others have posted, lots and lots of cool stuff. So I’ll just throw a few of a more personal nature on here.

The wife and I enjoying a sundae in the ice cream parlor
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Here she is goofing around in the western town
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Hanging out with Bob
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I also took home a couple souvenirs from the vendors. First being a vintage Coke sign, from 1939.
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Hung on the wall
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Also grabbed this little gas pump sign
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Which I thought would be perfect (and funny) for the new compressor shed
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So with all that fun and activity I didn’t have a lot of time to work on the airlines, but did manage to get a small section cut and prepped inside the shop. Still haven’t burned it in yet.
51124923282_a948700830_c.jpg


The ball valve will be the shop main shut-off and plan to keep that and the actual compressor in the “off” state when I’m not out there. The extra gauges might be a bit silly and/or overkill, but I’d like to keep track of what’s in the tank and how much bleed-down the system has when not in use.

Went with a filter/regulator combo. 10 micron particulate filter, 1 micron coalescing filter, and then a regulator. Put that between couplers so can easily (in theory) be removed/replaced if needed. After the filter I put in a Tee and a small valve below for any condensation draining that may bypass the filter. The filter is roughly 10 feet away from the compressor, and then the vertical run to the ceiling is about another 10 feet or so. I’m hoping that between the filter/dryer and the long-ish run of copper the air should be cooled enough to drop any moisture out by the time it gets to the top and the main loop.
51125396113_7e1a105020_c.jpg
 

drivesitfar

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happy to hear you made it to Don's and had some fun checking out his place. seriously we went to Universal Studios and spent all day there the day before we went to Don's and I thought Don's was more fun.

just a question when you cut in your copper lines and put them together. since it's probably about 100 degrees there now in the shade or will be soon do you have to take it all apart to flux and solder or did you add the flux when you put everything together so you can just solder everything now? i'm guessing you are taking apart and adding solder later, but wanted to know if it might work if you added flux when putting it all together.

keep up the great work and yep maybe next spring we'll have a bite to eat and see a few sites in Sedona together if the world doesn't go in a crazy funk again.

cheers!!
 
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StormcrowAz

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Drives – No flux yet. The Plan is to pull it off the wall, take it apart, and solder it together one joint at a time on the bench. Once I get that assembly done I’ll re-install and solder the two ends in place. Not sure if that’s more or less work, harder or easier…but sitting here in front of the computer it seems like a good idea. Just want to take my time and do it right, hoping it will outlast me with no leaks!

Oddly enough, it cooled back down a little bit. So maybe another week or so reprieve to take advantage of nice weather!
 
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StormcrowAz

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Weeks go by and doesn’t feel like I have enough to show for it. So many things to do, so little free time.

To be fair, some of that time was spent enjoying the great outdoors. Took the family camping.
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Made very minor progress on getting the airlines done, sweated that small section I put together a while back.
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Did the soapy water test and found a few leaks. They were all at the threaded connections. I try not to over-torque things, so it was pretty easy fix to tighten them down a bit more. Fortunately all of my soldered connections held up just fine.
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As it’s starting to heat up here in the valley, I figured I should probably switch gears and get some cooling back in place. Picked up this evaporative cooler off Craigslist
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Different design from the last one I had up there, so needed to modify some things. Since that side of the shop now has concrete and shade, the real-estate value has appreciated a bit and I didn’t want to waste the floor square footage on the big stand I previously had the old cooler sitting on. This time I’m going to try hanging it. I cut the support flange off the original stand and needed to widen it a few inches. Split it in half and welded in some spacers.
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Rummaged through the scrap pile and made some brackets.
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[/url]

Added some eye hooks to the support frame and then anchored the new brackets to the wall. Bolted the support frame to the lower brackets and used chain and clevis shackles to hang the other end.
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Factory spec sheet says the unit weighs in around 220lbs when operational, so I figured dry and by removing all the doors, panels, pumps, etc. it should be more manageable. The wife and I managed to bully it up there without too much difficulty.
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Wired it up and fired it up and everything seemed to be working good. Oh, side note – finally got to use this magnetized third hand thingy. I believe Mike (Zmotorsports) posted it a while back on this thread and it looked too good to not add to the kit. Also trying out those heat-shrink, low-temp solder connectors. Have read mixed reviews but figured I’d try it for myself. The third hand worked great (thanks, Mike!) and the connectors seem to work well for this application.
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After running for a few minutes I noticed that the air wasn’t as cool as when it first fired up. Seems like the pads stopped getting wet. It’s always something. It’s a new pump, so maybe the hose popped off or some such. At this point I just threw in the towel and switched gears to a different project. I’ll trouble-shoot and fix the cooler this week.
 
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StormcrowAz

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In the mean-time, it’s time to install some new stuff to the Can Am. Purchased the all-terrain trunk lid, a factory accessory. Pricey, but out of all the options out there this seemed to maximize available space. Plus it looks nice and the wife wanted it, so that pretty much settled it. Pulled the spare tire carrier off
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Fairly quick and simple install (benefit of it not being acustom DIY fabrication, I suppose)
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So now I need to figure out the spare tire placement and am going to loosely copy another factory design that holds the tire horizontally over the trunk and pivots upwards, to allow trunk access. Going the DIY route for this, as there are several things I want to customize. The factory option is around $500, and I’m sure I’ll spent a mere $498 in materials and 40 hours of labor on it. ;) Should be a fun challenge, though.

Starting with a little CAD (cardboard aided design) work and made me a mock-up spare tire. Figure it’ll be easier to use this for checking functionality over lugging the actual tire up there all the time. Plus I made it a couple inches bigger to accommodate future tire upgrades.

Mig wire and a pencil for the circle
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Box cutter and duct tape
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This should save me some back pains
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And that’s as far as I’ve gotten. Think I’ll use some PVC to design and test functionality before cutting up any metal.
 

zmotorsports

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Looks like a fun trip. Glad to see you were able to get away for some play time.

Those little soldering helping hands work pretty well don't they?
 

drivesitfar

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from my chair you've accomplished a ton this year. i'm sure you might have had to work a bit of overtime at work to pay for that huge carport (future fully enclosed garage/shop).

great job on the copper plumbing and hope you enjoy using your new compressor now that I think it's ready to use.

I can't say i've ever seen a cardboard tire mock up so hope your new tire holder CUSTOM DESIGN works cause I think it's a great idea to use unused space. also I doubt you'd ever need to see behind you and it might help cushion the blow if you flip your rig backwards (I hope that doesn't happen though).

keep up the great work and now that it's 70's and sunny here i'm sure your hitting 3 digit temps so stay cool with that new cooler too.

BTW do you have a garage fridge full of cold water or ice tea?
 
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StormcrowAz

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Yes, that little tool was certainly worth it and I'm sure it won't be the only time it gets used!


Managed to wrangle a few free hours of shop time this weekend. First thing was to address the swamp cooler issues. Went to check out the water pump and found out that the maintenance panels are obstructed by the angle iron frame work. My solution was to cut some clearance notches out of the angle iron for the doors to be removed, but that just leaves basically flat-strap in that area instead of angle, so figured I would add some support back in there – 1” square tubing welded underneath the frame. Not sure it was really necessary, but made me feel better.
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Turns out the water tray was empty. Need to run that permanent water line in there. I was thinking the tray by itself would last more than few minutes, but makes sense I guess…dry pads plus zero humidity doesn’t take long for it to dry out.


Switched gears and continued on with the spare tire carrier build.

Got these tube collars off of Amazon for the hinges and stops.
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Thought they would look better if they were a little more rounded, so took them to the belt sander.
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Cut up some DOM tubing and made a few 3/16” plates
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Tacked together
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Welded up
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Took a bit of cleaning with the belt sander and a file to get them tuned up and working smooth. Not bad for DIY hinges, I think.
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Alignment
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Tacked in place
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Next up I built a mock-up of the carrier base out of PVC. Tacked a short section of half inch EMT conduit to the hinges and used a few self-tapping screws to attach the PVC assembly. This worked out great and I was able to cut and re-fit as needed until I came up with a (hopefully) good game-plan. Due to clearance issues, and to have the tire just where I want it, I’ll have to angle the tire a few degrees.
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The PVC mock-up was a bit of extra work, but worth it I think. Without being 100% sure of what I’m doing here (it looks good on paper) I figured it would be easier to chop up the PVC versus cutting and welding up sections of metal tubing to get what I want. I’ll probably still have to do some of that on the final product, but at least now I have a better idea on the mechanics of what’s going on.
 

drivesitfar

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you and I posted about the same time so check out my comments on that other post cause if I didn't mention it WELL DONE should have been mentioned on all your projects.

nice work on the tire holder this weekend. I'm far from a fabrication guy, but wondering if you might be also going to have an angled support (sort of like the chain on the cooler) cause I'm not certain that steel replacing that PVC won't give and have your tire laying on your new trunk cover?

anyway i'm sure you'll figure it out cause you've already made more progress than i would have.

keep up the great work and thanks for sharing your pics so some of us DIY guys can learn more as you do.
 
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StormcrowAz

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Drives – Yep, looks like overlapping timing on our posts. :)

Regarding the view, yes the new set-up will totally block out being able to see behind us. The rear-view mirror will basically be useless. However…I’ve already planned for that and got one of these dash-cams, which will replace the mirror entirely. The plan is to mount the remote camera on the rear bumper, giving me a good field of view for both traffic and backing up over rough terrain.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZ1D226/?tag=atomicindus08-20

About the angled support – If you notice there’s an extra set of collars below the one I just tacked welded the hinges to. The plan is to triangulate from there to the end of the tire carrier base. It should act as a physical stop, not allowing the tire assembly to rest on the trunk lid. I got some Destaco clamps for securing it, but am worried I might not have room in the current configuration. I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it.

It’s starting to hit triple digits, although forecast says just the high 90’s this week. Still need to plumb a water line to the cooler, maybe I’ll chip away at that after work this week. I’ve got a small dorm-type fridge upstairs in the shop, loaded with water and Gatorade. I also have a water cooler in the shop proper, which is what I use the most. Cold filtered water is priceless, and that’s one of those pieces of equipment that if ever fails, gets an immediate replacement.

As always, thanks for stopping by and the words of encouragement!
 
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StormcrowAz

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Ok, first posting since the new and improved GJ format. Let’s see what kind of learning curve there is.


Had a productive weekend. Spent Saturday working on shop improvements. Mainly in efforts to get the swamp cooler running. Need to run a new water supply line to the cooler. The old one was plastic tubing that I ran inside some ¾” PVC buried a few inches below ground. Figured I’d upgrade to copper this go-around. Since the cooler is now above concrete and not dirt, the plan is to run it high up the wall since I can’t bury it. Since the hose bib I was originally pulling the water from is now essentially in the “doorway” space between the shop and the new shade structure, I figure I would relocate that a bit closer to the compressor shed. And while I’m at it (can you say: “project creep”?) I might as well put in an outdoor sink there, too. The mother-in-law upgraded the mud/laundry room sink in her cabin recently so it was a freebie.


Dug out the old PVC line and trenched down a few more inches.
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Since I’m still mid-process of putting in the copper airlines throughout the shop…I have a bunch of pipe and fittings, so made a new manifold for the cooler, sink, and hose bib. Also put down some extra bricks we had laying around.
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Installed a manual air hose reel (still need to put air to it) and a new water hose. Still haven’t hooked up the sink as I’m not sure what to do about drainage. Thinking about putting a small dry well set-up in place. Probably won’t use it much other than to maybe the occasional hand-washing, but would be nice to not do that while getting muddy at the same time.
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I also knocked out another trailer project, and added an EMS (Electrical Management System) to the toy hauler. Basically a fancy surge protector that also detects low-voltage, reverse polarity, 240v protection, mis-wired pedestals, etc. etc. Seemed like a good investment, never know what the wiring is like if staying at an RV park. Without one (according to the trailer forums) your rig will automatically burst into flames as soon as you pull into the park.

I figured this busy spot under the sink was the best place to put it. The wooden box (next to the water heater, underneath the water-fill ports) is where the shore power comes in from.
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The generator output receptacle is what’s screwed into the inside of the wood box. The power cable is coiled up and stored in the box as well. So you either plug the cord into the on-board generator, or pull the cord out and plug it into another source (house, RV pedestal). So with the exception of the 12v accessories coming from the marine batteries, any external power source will run through the EMS.

Not the worst place for an install, I suppose. But it was pretty tight and uncomfortable to work in.
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Mounted to the side wall there. The last bottom screw was at a weird angle with hoses and such in the way. I spent an equal amount of time trying to get that last fastener in as I did getting the job done up to that point. Frustrating, but finally managed to drive it home.
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It also comes with a remote display that provides a rolling status with voltage, frequency, amperage, and error codes (if any).
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Sunday was dedicated to working on the spare tire carrier. Started with the main frame
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Tacking everything in place
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Hoping I can maintain some of this accuracy when doing the final welding. Will pull it off the car for that and worried about warping and fitting it back up.
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Added these little slices of DOM to the lower collars. Welded from the inside only.
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Capped the pipe ends and drilled corresponding holes to fit over the DOM
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Tight fit
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With the rough terrain and abuse these things go through, I’m thinking this will (hopefully) keep any side-to-side movment to a minimum. Not sure if it’s really necessary, but felt like a good idea.

Placed the tire and empty jugs up there for a visual test fit.
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Next I cut up some plate, measured, and drilled the lug pattern. Ordered some OEM wheel studs and lug nuts for commonality and spares.
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Test fit and everything is good. Also drilled a hole in the middle, this will be for the LED whip mount and wire pass-through.
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That’s all for now. Looking forward to the long weekend coming up, hoping to finish this project then.
 

rattle_snake

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I see you have an air reel next to new sink. It is VERY HANDY to have air to dry parts and things after washing. could just use untreated air for that instead of going out thru block again after filter and such.
SxS tire mount is slick, nice job.
 

drivesitfar

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Great work as per usual!!

talking about project creep while you’re making drain for outside sink don’t you need a plumbed rv dump so maybe combine them?

how fo you like tire holder cause looks pretty good from my chair!!

nice plumbing and omg does your bride have any idea how much you saved by not hiring it out?
 
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StormcrowAz

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Justin – Good point, hadn’t thought of that! I was just thinking having a hose in that spot would be nice to maintain the 20 or so tires that live back there now. J


Drives – Hmmm…an RV dump you say? That would be kinda nice! That sounds like it might need more than just a barrel full of rocks to seep away the occasional hand-washing worth of water, though. Not sure I’m up to adding a third septic system to the property. ;) The wife probably has a decent idea of the cost savings. Her big misconceptions are typically time related. Usually something like: “Can’t you just make this thing really quick? It looks easy.” Which usually ends up taking a couple weeks to accomplish. She is great about farming out anything requiring a lot of hard manual labor or something that would save me a significant amount of time. Probably more so than I am…I often have a difficult time paying someone else to do something I know I could do myself. There’s only so many hours in the day, though…



Made good progress on the spare tire carrier this weekend. Lots of pictures! Is there a limit to how many you can put in one post?



Welded the studs to the backing plate
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Used the PVC mock-up of the frame to get the tube supports in place
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Another cool use for this adjustable Fireball tool. Set the angle and clamped it to the belt sander table.
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Tubes tacked in place
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The assembly set on the frame to verify angle and get it properly centered
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Tacked in place
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Happy with the placement!
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The tire will act as a rubber bump-stop against the upper cage
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Plenty of clearance to access the trunk
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Next up is to attach these Destaco clamps. Should keep it from bouncing around while on the trail.
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The little hooks have a pretty small footprint for welding in the position I needed them to be in, so I added a 3/16” tab behind it and welded that to the collar fully before tacking the hook to it. I feel much better about the retention of that set-up. I welded another piece of 3/16” stock to the back of the clamp to keep in plane with the hook, and then tacked that to the frame-work.
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On the other side, I also added these tabs
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Can throw a padlock on there real quick, to keep the honest folk honest
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That way if we want to get out of the car to do some hiking/exploring, we can stash the helmets in the trunk and they should be there when we get back. The trunk itself doesn’t come with any way to lock it, so by limiting the up-travel of the carrier, you can’t get the trunk open more than an inch or so.


Next up is the water and gas can mounts. I chose these Rotopax containers as they seem pretty robust and just the right size for this rig.
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1” square tube for supports and cut out some circles from 1/8” sheet
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Welded a stud through the middle of the circle (the nut holding the can on is the same size as the lug-nuts, so no need for another tool just for this) and then welded some tubing to the disc as well. The thought here is that the cans will be squished between the two discs, but the tubing will be sized length-wise as a limiting stop, to prevent over-tightening and possibly cracking of the plastic containers. They also limit the amount of rotation the cans have on the mount, keeping them oriented.
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Both sides done
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Everything looking good, it’s time to pull it off and weld it up.
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Oh, I also added a whip mount to the top of the tire carrier. Capped off a piece of remnant tubing, drilled a hole, and welded in place.
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Managed to weld the entire assembly and then ran out of energy. Plan is to hand-finish the welds and re-assemble and hopefully I didn’t warp anything too badly. I also ordered some gas struts to help in lifting the tire. Will have to hold off painting until I can situate those accordingly.
 

drivesitfar

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Looks like you figured out everything so I’m betting you didn’t warp it by welding and you can go to paint next weekend. Good luck on the sink drain or new tv dump.
 
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StormcrowAz

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Drives – Well…it looks like you would have lost money on that bet. :( Looks like I put just a little too much heat attaching the horizontal tubes to the main frame and I did experience just a little warpage. Not too bad, though.


Dan - Thank you! Looking forward to seeing more completion updates on your new shop!


Justin – Much appreciated!


PugetDude – Feel free! I’d be honored to see a copy out there!


Bugnut – Thanks, and thank you for stopping by and checking out my stuff!



Well, as mentioned a little above…there was a slight warp. Happened to notice the assembly was rocking back and forth on my work table, just a bit. I think between putting multiple passes on the vertical tube attached to the main frame, and the frame being relatively long it was just enough to pull the ends up slightly. Maybe .125” per side. Not very visible, and fortunately it did not impede the ability to re-assemble it to the car.


After bolting it back up and making minor adjustments to collar placement, everything still works as intended. Next step is to add some gas struts to aid in lifting. I got these 15”, 67lb each, struts off of Amazon.
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Pretty much disregarded all instructions provided, I doubt this is a typical installation. Tried using the brackets provided (you can see I cut one up to test) but they just wouldn’t work for what I needed. Used a small section of 1” angle iron for the bottom bracket and tacked to the collar.
51223338715_3224115d5d_c.jpg

Made custom little platform for the upper bracket, and after some trial and error found the sweet spot
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This is the strut fully extended and is now the limiting factor for how far it opens.
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With both cans full of fluid plus the spare tire, opening is an easy one-handed operation and it stays in the upright position. Even with shortening the up-travel by an inch or so, there’s still plenty of room to access the trunk.
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Tonight I plan on pulling the assembly back off, burning in those new strut brackets, cleaning it up and prepping for paint.
 
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StormcrowAz

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Dan – That thought has definitely been bouncing around my head for a bit. The only negative, and what’s been keeping from doing it, is if I want to tweak something or add more bracketry. I’d hate to have it all nice and coated only to then grind and weld on it. Otherwise it’s an easy rattle-can touch-up I wouldn’t feel bad about. I’d like to add some chase lights and such, but haven’t settled on a good location or method for attachment. Thought about bending up some aluminum covers for the water/gas cans to protect them from tree branches and minimize UV exposure , possibly incorporating lights into those…but then that’s more junk I’d have to dis-assemble if I ever actually needed the water/gas. Decisions, decisions…
 
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StormcrowAz

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Justin – I have checked out Matt’s FabSpace thread as he does great work. Also saw the powder coating he was doing and would love to have a decent set-up for small parts. I just need to win the lottery and retire so I can free up a little bit of time…


Jollygreengiant – No, hadn’t really considered painting it…but I also hadn’t planned on keeping water in it 24/7. I was just going to fill it up (it's only 1.75 gallons) before each trip and then empty it when we’re done for the week/weekend. Figure if the cap is left loose while in storage it will stay nice and dry and avoid turning it into a science experiment. Thanks for the feedback and suggestion, though!


MrPink – I suppose I could use it for an emergency solar shower. ;)


Mike – Thanks for thumbs up and stopping by!
 

PugetDude

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Todd,
Nice work on the rack; can ypou post a link to the tube collars you bought on Amazon. I tried a search but came up with single-screw pipe collars, dog collars, tracheotomy collars, and some wierd ******* paraphenalia...
 

drivesitfar

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You did an amazing job fabricating that tire rack! I’m sure you could improve it and go down the huge rabbit hole of more projects but good prep and spray paint will get you on the road and on to the next to do. Hope you are staying cool cause in 80’s already up here.
Take that open air beast for a test drive in the mountains to cool off?
 
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StormcrowAz

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Pugetdude - My apologies...the "collar" term is what I think of them as. To avoid confusion I should be referencing things by their True Amazon Name. They are actually called Steel Tube Clamps and these are the ones I went with:


Drives - Thanks! And actually we're planning a trip in the opposite direction, heading to the beach in Mexico. This is also a motivating force to get the project done in time The wife and I ran some errands yesterday morning and I didn't get to the shop until late afternoon. Didn't run the cooler and it was at least 100° in there. I did manage to get a few things done, though. Plenty of hydration involved.
 
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StormcrowAz

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Another fairly busy weekend.

One of these days I’d like to set up something a little less unstable for painting. Or, of course, a powder coating booth. ;)

Parts suspended by mig wire, hung off a 10’ section of pipe straddled across a fence and gate.
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Primed
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Painted. Went with “Hammered Black”. Looks a little light, maybe on the grey-ish side to me. Should be ok, though. Between the tire and the fuel/water cans probably won’t be too visible anyway.
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So while the paint is curing, I switched over to taking care of a few projects on the toy hauler. The Mrs. wanted the drop-down ramp turned into a patio deck. They sell pre-made kits for this, but it’s just a few brackets and some cable. Seems like something I could do. The ramp is rated at 3k lbs according to the sticker inside the trailer, that plus having driven the Can Am (~1700lbs) in and out several times now, I think it’s safe to support a couple adults on camp chairs.

Started with a pile of misc. plate out of the pile. 3/16” for the main bracketry and some 1/8” for the backer-plates on the ramp.
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A little cutting, drilling, belt sanding, and welding yields these
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I plan on getting a new plasma cutter here in a couple months. Seriously thinking about also picking up this small CNC table to go with it: http://www.langmuirsystems.com/crossfire
Should be fun making stuff like this.


A little nerve-wracking, but drilled holes all the way through the trailer ramp door. The backing plate is underneath, sandwiching the trailer door frame between that and the hook.
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Welding the upper brackets in was unpleasant. Awkward angles, standing on the drop-down bed and such. Not my best work, but should get the job done. Just happy I didn’t burn the trailer down.
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Pulled the other brackets off and painted (look, another time I could have used a powder coater) those, plus the ones permanently attached.
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Forgot to get pictures of the whole patio deck in place, guess I’ll save that for when we actually use it. Did some other minor repairs and upgrades to the trailer, nothing super exciting. The plan for tonight is to do the final install of that spare tire carrier. Looking forward to having that done and moving on to finishing the shop air lines.
 

zmotorsports

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Todd, the parts turned out great. I wouldn't worry about how you are accomplishing it by hanging parts. I've built several award winning street rods and muscle cars using the exact same technique by handing parts from pipes spanning across saw horses, etc. Anything to allow full coverage of the paint and clear will work.

As for your ramp, great job building the brackets and saving yourself some money. Money that you can use to play.

If I could make one suggestion it would be to reverse you cable clamps on the upper mount. It's hard to determine in the picture but I think your lower cable mount may be correct. Remember the phrase "never saddle a dead horse". The saddle should reside on the live end of the cable.
 
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StormcrowAz

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Mike - Huh. As my great-grandmother used to say: "you live and you learn."
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I'll go over each end when i get home to ensure they are saddled correctly. Thank you for the education, much appreciated! I can imagine that would be most unpleasant - sitting on the ramp in a comfy chair, sipping a cold adult beverage, only to have one (or more) of those cables let go! A quick way to turn the Fun Machine off.

Harley Jim - That won't be something I soon forget either!
 

zmotorsports

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Todd, it's just something that us industrial maintenance mechanics get beat into our heads early on in our careers and thought it was worth mentioning.
 
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