j p smith
Well-known member
Thanks Todd!
Above 1200 Sq/FT Ernie's Place
- Thread starter StormcrowAz
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
I’ve put in a few hours on the Can Am. Started with the turn signals. Didn’t want to burn up two spots on the Switch Pro, and since there’s already a blank spot on the dash for an extra switch – that’s where it’s going. First thing is to pull the panel, two screws and a couple clips and it pops right out.
That larger blank spot octagon spot can house two extra switches or another Can Am accessory, a clock or some such. It’s going to get in the way for the intercom and ham radio, so it needs to go.
Hacking it up with a small cutting wheel in the die grinder.
Cleaned it up with the belt sander, it actually turned out not half bad. Also popped the new switch in there.
Re-installed. Looks like I really need to give this whole rig a bath.
Now begins the wiring fun. Center console sections removed
Drilled holes into the plastic for the turn signal lights. Cutting into the plastic is a little nerve-wracking. Unlike metal, it’s a bit difficult to put back if you make a mistake.
Also decided to mount the Switch Pro here. Used 3M double-sided adhesive tape, I’ve found this stuff to be very sticky and resilient. Hopefully it will handle all the bumps, but even if it lets go, there’s really nowhere for it to go. I plan on putting a dirt/water splash shield over it for a little extra protection, that hot lug is pretty exposed.
That larger blank spot octagon spot can house two extra switches or another Can Am accessory, a clock or some such. It’s going to get in the way for the intercom and ham radio, so it needs to go.
Hacking it up with a small cutting wheel in the die grinder.
Cleaned it up with the belt sander, it actually turned out not half bad. Also popped the new switch in there.
Re-installed. Looks like I really need to give this whole rig a bath.
Now begins the wiring fun. Center console sections removed
Drilled holes into the plastic for the turn signal lights. Cutting into the plastic is a little nerve-wracking. Unlike metal, it’s a bit difficult to put back if you make a mistake.
Also decided to mount the Switch Pro here. Used 3M double-sided adhesive tape, I’ve found this stuff to be very sticky and resilient. Hopefully it will handle all the bumps, but even if it lets go, there’s really nowhere for it to go. I plan on putting a dirt/water splash shield over it for a little extra protection, that hot lug is pretty exposed.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Turn signal lights installed.
Ran all the wiring, which took a long time as I tried to really tuck everything up nice and tight so it didn’t look like ****. Made the connections and tested it out and everything is in working order. Also ran some of the other Switch Pro wiring, grounds, and stuff while I was at it.
Took a little wiring break to do some fabrication. I pulled out the factory rear-view mirror as it was pretty much useless with the new spare tire in the way. Got a back-up camera/monitor to go in its place and needed a way to mount it. I left the factory bracket in there for an attachment point and made this to go between the bracket and monitor. Cut a small slice of DOM tubing and beveled out one end.
Turns out a 6mm nut presses in nice and snug. Bevel is there for filling in with weld.
Nut welded to the tube and tube slice welded to a small piece of plate. Put on a couple coats of paint and it’s currently drying. Will install tomorrow.
Next up was making a bezel mount for the switch cluster. I plan on mounting this up against the roof, just left of the new rear-view monitor. Started off with some CAD work (arts and crafts cardboard variety, I can’t wait for the plasma table to arrive).
Transferred that to a piece of aluminum, .125” thick, maybe?
Got to play with the SWAG finger brake on the press.
Cut out the hole for the switch cluster
Fits like a glove!
That’s it for this weekend so far. Fortunately have an extra ay tomorrow dedicated to more progress, hopefully. I also must say…having a quiet and essentially never-ending supply of full-PSI air throughout the whole shop is NICE! No more down time waiting for the little compressor to spool up while using the die grinder and such. Anyways, that’s it for now.
Ran all the wiring, which took a long time as I tried to really tuck everything up nice and tight so it didn’t look like ****. Made the connections and tested it out and everything is in working order. Also ran some of the other Switch Pro wiring, grounds, and stuff while I was at it.
Took a little wiring break to do some fabrication. I pulled out the factory rear-view mirror as it was pretty much useless with the new spare tire in the way. Got a back-up camera/monitor to go in its place and needed a way to mount it. I left the factory bracket in there for an attachment point and made this to go between the bracket and monitor. Cut a small slice of DOM tubing and beveled out one end.
Turns out a 6mm nut presses in nice and snug. Bevel is there for filling in with weld.
Nut welded to the tube and tube slice welded to a small piece of plate. Put on a couple coats of paint and it’s currently drying. Will install tomorrow.
Next up was making a bezel mount for the switch cluster. I plan on mounting this up against the roof, just left of the new rear-view monitor. Started off with some CAD work (arts and crafts cardboard variety, I can’t wait for the plasma table to arrive).
Transferred that to a piece of aluminum, .125” thick, maybe?
Got to play with the SWAG finger brake on the press.
Cut out the hole for the switch cluster
Fits like a glove!
That’s it for this weekend so far. Fortunately have an extra ay tomorrow dedicated to more progress, hopefully. I also must say…having a quiet and essentially never-ending supply of full-PSI air throughout the whole shop is NICE! No more down time waiting for the little compressor to spool up while using the die grinder and such. Anyways, that’s it for now.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
When a you take apart almost the entire inside of your can and do do some wiring and fab work it’s too good for just a like in my mind. I hear you on cutting plastic or wood is my thing lately knowing that you can’t do a minor repair. Nice work all around and happy you and your compressor set up is working like you thought it would. I’m guessing it might also be under 100 in your garage and you’ve almost made it thru another summer in the sun (beach trips do help).
j p smith
Well-known member
That is going to be real nice when you are completed. We liked what that system can do but could never get it to live on the Off Road Race car. I don't think you will have any trouble and will really enjoy having it.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Drives – Thanks for your posts, it’s much appreciated. That’s something I don’t do enough of, posting on other folks sites. Like everything else I just need to make the time, and it only takes a minute. I almost never touch a computer when at home (the above from this past weekend was a rare exception) as I get enough of that sitting at work. In general I guess I don’t say a lot in person, so maybe this is bleeding over into my on-line persona. Anyways, Thanks again for your continued support!
Jeff – What happened with it in your race car? The back-up camera is probably my biggest concern on durability. If anything else breaks the removal and replacement isn’t so bad, as all the wiring infrastructure is in place. With the camera, the power cord and camera cord I’m thinking are probably proprietary and would be a pain to rip out and replace everything if something goes bad. Time will tell, I suppose. Thanks for stopping by!
Back to the action. Let the monitor bracket dry for a day then test fit.
Stuck it to the back of the monitor.
Mounted it and it looks good.
Was unable to find a way to route power, ground, and camera cables from under the dash to the roof (makes sense, I guess. Keeping any potential water from dripping down to the electronics.), so was forced to drill another hole into plastic. Will have to seal this up somehow when all is said and done. This is the control cable for the Switch Pro.
Ran it up through the cage to the roof
Added the monitor power cord and camera cable. The silver wire is my pull cord for the last of the power cables, light bar and dome lights. Ordered some 10 awg SXL crossed-linked wire and waiting for it to be delivered so I can finish up everything going to the roof.
The mounting bracket for the rear camera is questionable. Zip-tied for now, we’ll see how well it holds up to the bumps and bounces. I think the zip ties will hold fine, it’s the angle adjustment on the bracket I’m not sure will keep it aimed steady.
Settled on a final location for the light bar and drilled the holes. Added a grommet for the power cable. Fortunately these are all in the “visor” section and not worried about more potential leak points into the cab.
Ran some other wires in preparation for the ham radio and intercom, not picture-worthy. I think while I’m waiting for the wire to arrive I’ll start on the roof, which is going to be a project of its own.
Jeff – What happened with it in your race car? The back-up camera is probably my biggest concern on durability. If anything else breaks the removal and replacement isn’t so bad, as all the wiring infrastructure is in place. With the camera, the power cord and camera cord I’m thinking are probably proprietary and would be a pain to rip out and replace everything if something goes bad. Time will tell, I suppose. Thanks for stopping by!
Back to the action. Let the monitor bracket dry for a day then test fit.
Stuck it to the back of the monitor.
Mounted it and it looks good.
Was unable to find a way to route power, ground, and camera cables from under the dash to the roof (makes sense, I guess. Keeping any potential water from dripping down to the electronics.), so was forced to drill another hole into plastic. Will have to seal this up somehow when all is said and done. This is the control cable for the Switch Pro.
Ran it up through the cage to the roof
Added the monitor power cord and camera cable. The silver wire is my pull cord for the last of the power cables, light bar and dome lights. Ordered some 10 awg SXL crossed-linked wire and waiting for it to be delivered so I can finish up everything going to the roof.
The mounting bracket for the rear camera is questionable. Zip-tied for now, we’ll see how well it holds up to the bumps and bounces. I think the zip ties will hold fine, it’s the angle adjustment on the bracket I’m not sure will keep it aimed steady.
Settled on a final location for the light bar and drilled the holes. Added a grommet for the power cable. Fortunately these are all in the “visor” section and not worried about more potential leak points into the cab.
Ran some other wires in preparation for the ham radio and intercom, not picture-worthy. I think while I’m waiting for the wire to arrive I’ll start on the roof, which is going to be a project of its own.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
I truly enjoy following your thread so post up any and all your doings (vacations are awesome) and i usually learn something by reading your latest posts.
love all the cool fab work and even though I've wired a few homes I've never really ever done much to a vehicle other than changing batteries and fuses and bulbs.
I hope all your improvements/ changes will help you do what you like to do whatever that may be.
cheers!!
love all the cool fab work and even though I've wired a few homes I've never really ever done much to a vehicle other than changing batteries and fuses and bulbs.
I hope all your improvements/ changes will help you do what you like to do whatever that may be.
cheers!!
j p smith
Well-known member
Todd the Switch Pro issues I think were due the length of the long races, the guys would lose a function, it might come back, it might not. One of the Mexico races during preruning with the race car instead of the prerunner they lost the Parker pumper. That pretty much sealed the deal on replacing it with switches and breakers. I think it was the 3rd one that lost the Parker Pumper, when they came back from The 1000 that year we had the car rewired. To reinforce what I said earlier I think it is a good product, I like what the Switch Pro can do and I doubt you will see any issues. Keep in mind the pounding a Off Road Race Car goes thru and they can be running races for 12 or more hours day & night with lots of draw from lights, fans and other equipment.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Jeff – Thanks for your input on the Switch Pro. From what I’ve read on the side-by-side forums they seem to be well regarded. And while not exactly driving to the mall, this rig certainly should not see the same stresses an off-road race car would. Time will tell! Appreciate the feedback!
Made a little more progress this weekend. Started by installing the first aid kit. Was originally going to mount to the rear roll-bar, but the spare got in the way. Decided to just bolt it to the roof.
Pulled the rest of the wiring and started clean-up. Spent a bit of time with split loom and zip ties. Wanted to make sure it looked nice and tidy. Here’s the wires going up to the whip
All those chain-link half-loops I welded to the tire carrier paying off
Here’s the loom coming from the cab through the back bulkhead, between the plastics and frame support. These wires are for the whip, turn signals, rear lights, and camera. I think it cleaned up nice and should provide some protection to those wires.
The only thing visible from the outside is a small section of loom towards the rear, tucked up tight. Not too bad.
The rats nest in the center console went from this:
To this:
Those few wires left hanging are for the intercom and ham radio. Need to put the center console back together before I can fab up the mounts and enclosure for those.
Made a little more progress this weekend. Started by installing the first aid kit. Was originally going to mount to the rear roll-bar, but the spare got in the way. Decided to just bolt it to the roof.
Pulled the rest of the wiring and started clean-up. Spent a bit of time with split loom and zip ties. Wanted to make sure it looked nice and tidy. Here’s the wires going up to the whip
All those chain-link half-loops I welded to the tire carrier paying off
Here’s the loom coming from the cab through the back bulkhead, between the plastics and frame support. These wires are for the whip, turn signals, rear lights, and camera. I think it cleaned up nice and should provide some protection to those wires.
The only thing visible from the outside is a small section of loom towards the rear, tucked up tight. Not too bad.
The rats nest in the center console went from this:
To this:
Those few wires left hanging are for the intercom and ham radio. Need to put the center console back together before I can fab up the mounts and enclosure for those.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Which means it was time to work on the roof. I got some 1” aluminum square tubing that I wanted to tack to the underside of the roof for supports, so mocked up the wiring paths to get a good idea of where they should go. The ham radio antenna is going to be routed through the passenger cage pillar by itself, away from all the other power lines.
Cut up a bunch of aluminum
The Plan
I don’t have a lot of hood time with tig and am not very comfortable with it yet, so figured some practice was in order. Got a remnant piece of the roof and then cut several small sacrificial pieces of square tube to get into a rhythm and tweak settings on the welder before tackling the real deal. This is when things went sideways. For the life of me, I wasn’t able to establish a good arc or puddle. I kept burning up the electrodes. After much Google and You Tube, I had replaced everything in the torch with new parts, new electrodes, messed with various settings, and still got the same results. One of the Tube suggestions was “bad gas”, but the tank is practically full and was “good” last time I used it so not sure how it would go bad. So thinking maybe there was a bad solenoid inside the machine not allowing the argon to flow I started to investigate. Was just thinking about opening up the machine when I noticed this:
The torch hose is basically falling apart from what looks to be dry-rot. I’m guessing the lack of shielding gas may be part of my problem…
So that brought a screeching halt to my progress, while I ordered a new Superflex hose and a new Dinse connector to make everything is serviceable. All the connections on the AHP set-up are crimped, so the only thing I can salvage is the torch head. Hopefully the brown truck drops those parts off soon.
Cut up a bunch of aluminum
The Plan
I don’t have a lot of hood time with tig and am not very comfortable with it yet, so figured some practice was in order. Got a remnant piece of the roof and then cut several small sacrificial pieces of square tube to get into a rhythm and tweak settings on the welder before tackling the real deal. This is when things went sideways. For the life of me, I wasn’t able to establish a good arc or puddle. I kept burning up the electrodes. After much Google and You Tube, I had replaced everything in the torch with new parts, new electrodes, messed with various settings, and still got the same results. One of the Tube suggestions was “bad gas”, but the tank is practically full and was “good” last time I used it so not sure how it would go bad. So thinking maybe there was a bad solenoid inside the machine not allowing the argon to flow I started to investigate. Was just thinking about opening up the machine when I noticed this:
The torch hose is basically falling apart from what looks to be dry-rot. I’m guessing the lack of shielding gas may be part of my problem…
So that brought a screeching halt to my progress, while I ordered a new Superflex hose and a new Dinse connector to make everything is serviceable. All the connections on the AHP set-up are crimped, so the only thing I can salvage is the torch head. Hopefully the brown truck drops those parts off soon.
j p smith
Well-known member
Todd your project is looking good! Especially with your attention to detail
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Jeff – Thank you! Much appreciated!
Finally received my last shipment from Langmuir. In case you were wondering, this is what a Crossfire Pro looks like still in its boxes.
Looking forward to putting this together after the Can Am is done.
Moving on to the Can Am – tackled another step in the project last night. Insulation of the center console area. It’s a known issue with these rigs in that the cab gets pretty hot. Not only is the engine right behind the seats, but the coolant hoses runs right along the floorboard under the center console plastics. It notably pours out heat through the shifter and we’ve ended up throwing jackets/hoodies over it to keep it from blowing more hot air into the cab. Here’s my plan/fix to mitigate this.
Start with some more arts and crafts. This time I get to play with spray glue, too. Shifter cover removed and making patterns to cut the insulation.
Using this foil wrap stuff I picked up from Lowe’s
Foil cut and using 3M 90 for the adhesive.
Re-installed shifter cover. Not a huge fan of how the foil looks through the shift pattern. Guessing this will also be a collection point for dust/dirt. Maybe mask everything else off and hit it with some rattle-can black to camouflage? Oh, also cut a slit pattern in the foil for the shifter to, you know, shift.
You’ll also notice that the shift tower has a bunch of gaps in it and I’m pretty sure that’s where the heat is rising up through. So went ahead and wrapped that up, too.
I also figured it wouldn’t hurt to line the center console plastics, too.
Did both sides and re-installed
Hopefully it will at least make a small difference.
Finally received my last shipment from Langmuir. In case you were wondering, this is what a Crossfire Pro looks like still in its boxes.
Looking forward to putting this together after the Can Am is done.Moving on to the Can Am – tackled another step in the project last night. Insulation of the center console area. It’s a known issue with these rigs in that the cab gets pretty hot. Not only is the engine right behind the seats, but the coolant hoses runs right along the floorboard under the center console plastics. It notably pours out heat through the shifter and we’ve ended up throwing jackets/hoodies over it to keep it from blowing more hot air into the cab. Here’s my plan/fix to mitigate this.
Start with some more arts and crafts. This time I get to play with spray glue, too. Shifter cover removed and making patterns to cut the insulation.
Using this foil wrap stuff I picked up from Lowe’s
Foil cut and using 3M 90 for the adhesive.
Re-installed shifter cover. Not a huge fan of how the foil looks through the shift pattern. Guessing this will also be a collection point for dust/dirt. Maybe mask everything else off and hit it with some rattle-can black to camouflage? Oh, also cut a slit pattern in the foil for the shifter to, you know, shift.
You’ll also notice that the shift tower has a bunch of gaps in it and I’m pretty sure that’s where the heat is rising up through. So went ahead and wrapped that up, too.
I also figured it wouldn’t hurt to line the center console plastics, too.
Did both sides and re-installed
Hopefully it will at least make a small difference.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It should and if nothing else, it might cut down on noise.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Dan – Good point! Thanks for stopping by!
So I received the new torch hose and connector.
Assembled and even put on a leather hose cover.
And that’s pretty much where my skill and talent with the tig welder tops out. I managed a few good tack welds on practice pieces and switched to the roof, which is really kicking my ****. That didn’t go as good as the practice pieces, but was able to barely stick some metal together. Aluminum is either really challenging or I’m just not very good at tig. Probably a bit of both. Between dipping the tungsten in the puddle every other arc and trying not to blow out the thinner square tube walls where it meets the slightly thicker roof material, it didn’t go as well as I would have liked. YouTube only goes so far for this skill-set, it seems. Anyways, the supports are in. For the most part. Don’t look too close.
Taped up the wires to keep them out of the way and moved on to the headliner – starting its life as a piece of thin-gauge aluminum sheet.
Quite a bit of measuring and cutting later.
I lost count of how many times I pulled this in and out of the car, shaving off a little here and there for fitment. Finally decided it was good and moved on to measuring and pre-drilling for the rivet nuts. Measured, marked, and punched 1/8” holes in the headliner. The three bigger holes are for dome lights.
[/url]
Held that in place and drilled corresponding 1/8” holes in the square tube roof supports. Amazingly everything seems to have lined up correctly. Used the Cleco’s to hold the headliner and switch cover in place.
[/url]
Theoretically after enlarging the holes in the square tubes and installing the rivet nuts, and enlarging the headliner holes to accept the screws, everything should still line up for final install. Hopefully I can make some time this week to finish it up so I can focus on the intercom and ham radio install this weekend.
So I received the new torch hose and connector.
Assembled and even put on a leather hose cover.
And that’s pretty much where my skill and talent with the tig welder tops out. I managed a few good tack welds on practice pieces and switched to the roof, which is really kicking my ****. That didn’t go as good as the practice pieces, but was able to barely stick some metal together. Aluminum is either really challenging or I’m just not very good at tig. Probably a bit of both. Between dipping the tungsten in the puddle every other arc and trying not to blow out the thinner square tube walls where it meets the slightly thicker roof material, it didn’t go as well as I would have liked. YouTube only goes so far for this skill-set, it seems. Anyways, the supports are in. For the most part. Don’t look too close.
Taped up the wires to keep them out of the way and moved on to the headliner – starting its life as a piece of thin-gauge aluminum sheet.
Quite a bit of measuring and cutting later.
I lost count of how many times I pulled this in and out of the car, shaving off a little here and there for fitment. Finally decided it was good and moved on to measuring and pre-drilling for the rivet nuts. Measured, marked, and punched 1/8” holes in the headliner. The three bigger holes are for dome lights.
[/url]Held that in place and drilled corresponding 1/8” holes in the square tube roof supports. Amazingly everything seems to have lined up correctly. Used the Cleco’s to hold the headliner and switch cover in place.
[/url]Theoretically after enlarging the holes in the square tubes and installing the rivet nuts, and enlarging the headliner holes to accept the screws, everything should still line up for final install. Hopefully I can make some time this week to finish it up so I can focus on the intercom and ham radio install this weekend.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Todd, do you have some Dynamat or a material like it? I would suggest putting that stuff on the roof piece and the headliner. Those two pieces of aluminum may start sounding like a drum or worse...buzz. Just my $0.02....
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Dan - There's weather stripping between the roof itself and the cage, and haven't had any noise issues with that yet. I have enough of the Reflectix insulation stuff left over to cover the headliner in two layers. Was planning on spray-gluing that in between the headliner and the roof. There will be a small air gap between the roof and the insulation (glued to the headliner), hoping to reduce heat transference from the Arizona sun. Do you think that would be good enough for noise abatement?
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Todd, how much quieter is the cab with the reflectix? I seem to recall someone on the HAMB using the self-adhesive foil-faced asphalt impregnated roofing tape from Lowes to attenuate sound. called it Redneck Dynamat. It worked really well on the steel floor, not sure how well it would adhere upside-down on plastic.
Gonna have to try something, my Teryx is LOUD in the cab.
Gonna have to try something, my Teryx is LOUD in the cab.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
PugetDude - Can't say for sure as I haven't had it out since I started putting all this stuff in the car. I've got a three-day outing in Moab mid-October and figure that will be the real test. The Sport models aren't as loud as their X3 cousins, and with a helmet on it isn't so bad. I was originally more concerned about eliminating heat from the cab. For holding to the ceiling...that 3M spray glue has some pretty good reviews, but again, untested by me yet. From what I've read it should do the trick.
I got the idea off of one of the Maverick forums. Read a couple times where the Redneck Dynamat came from Lowe's, and that Reflectix stuff was the closest thing I could find there. I did not see the self-adhesive roofing tape, could be I just didn't know to look for it. The smaller roll of Reflectix was about $19. Some of the recommended Dynamat-type materials I've seen are significantly more expensive for less coverage. Time will tell if the Reflectix is a viable alternative or a "get what you pay for" scenario. I'll let you know when I get back.
I got the idea off of one of the Maverick forums. Read a couple times where the Redneck Dynamat came from Lowe's, and that Reflectix stuff was the closest thing I could find there. I did not see the self-adhesive roofing tape, could be I just didn't know to look for it. The smaller roll of Reflectix was about $19. Some of the recommended Dynamat-type materials I've seen are significantly more expensive for less coverage. Time will tell if the Reflectix is a viable alternative or a "get what you pay for" scenario. I'll let you know when I get back.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Todd, I think the Reflectix would dampen the sound somewhat. I have some stuff left over from when I built the Cobra called Damplifier Pro (click here). I would be more than happy to send a sheet or two to you. You actually don't need to cover the entire surface with it. Just a couple/few strips placed on the roof and the headliner. It turned knocking on a piece of sheet aluminum from a reverberant ting to a dull thud.
If you're interested, PM me your address and I will ship it to you. But first I have to find it. I know it's out in the garage somewhere.
j p smith
Well-known member
Todd TIG welding requires practice, practice, practice. Size of cup and tungsten can make a difference also.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Dan – I really appreciate the offer, but I’m on a roll and just couldn’t wait that long!
Besides, if I didn’t use what I had…I’d be forced to find somewhere to put the left-overs.
Again, thank you very much for the consideration!
Jeff – Yes, I just need to find more of that elusive Time stuff to squeeze in some practice sessions.
Besides, if I didn’t use what I had…I’d be forced to find somewhere to put the left-overs.
Again, thank you very much for the consideration!
Jeff – Yes, I just need to find more of that elusive Time stuff to squeeze in some practice sessions.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Mini-update today. Cleaned up the roof a bit last night, trimmed the foil and poked holes for wiring and bolts. Wired up the dome lights and went to install the roof. I got M6 button head cap screws to hold it in place, I think the dome shape will look better than a regular bolt-head. I got them at the metric equivalent of half-inch long, which normally would be have been fine for going into the rivet nut through the thin roof sheet…but I didn’t think about the two layers of insulation I put in between there. Was able to get one bolt in (probably a thin spot) but the rest wouldn’t start. Used some regular M6 bolts to hold it in place for now. Good news is that they went in just fine in multiple locations, so alignment shouldn’t be an issue. So at least it’s held in place until the longer screws arrive. In the mean-time, I can start on the communications install.
j p smith
Well-known member
Looking pretty dang good Todd!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Great fab work. I seem to recall your mig welding skills not being great and they got better with time so hopefully you’ll master tig too. Nice work on the fit for your ceiling piece. I usually end up reversing a number or position (maybe I’m dyslexic).
hope the heat doesn’t ruin any of your good work. Carry on and thanks as always for taking the time to post pics and your projects.
hope the heat doesn’t ruin any of your good work. Carry on and thanks as always for taking the time to post pics and your projects.
Last edited:
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Jeff – Thank you!!
Drives – Thanks! I think we’re finally out of the triple-digit temperatures. Yesterday it rained for most of the day and it was nice to work in the shop with the big roll-up door open.
Kent_B – Thanks for checking out my stuff! I’m still not very experienced in the ham radio world, so for now it’s a lot of book-knowledge (or internet knowledge these days). The radio is an inexpensive Btech UV25X4, tri-band. From what I’ve read the optimal mobile antenna set-up is centered on a metal roof, so that’s what I did. I also got the optional cap to protect the base from moisture when not in-use.
I picked up this Diamond tri-band antenna with the fold-over hinge. Even with it folded over, I’m not sure I’ll have enough clearance to leave it on when pulled into the toy hauler. Still need to check that.
Again – thanks for stopping by!
Picked up a new-to-me vise after work on Friday. A little bit of an upgrade, I think. I’ve been using that little Columbia for quite a while now. The new one is a horrible gold color, so that will need to change. Overall doesn’t seem like it’s in bad shape. I’d like to make a receiver-hitch mount for it and clear off the top of my work cart. Eventually I’d like to make a real work table to attach it to.
Drives – Thanks! I think we’re finally out of the triple-digit temperatures. Yesterday it rained for most of the day and it was nice to work in the shop with the big roll-up door open.
Kent_B – Thanks for checking out my stuff! I’m still not very experienced in the ham radio world, so for now it’s a lot of book-knowledge (or internet knowledge these days). The radio is an inexpensive Btech UV25X4, tri-band. From what I’ve read the optimal mobile antenna set-up is centered on a metal roof, so that’s what I did. I also got the optional cap to protect the base from moisture when not in-use.
I picked up this Diamond tri-band antenna with the fold-over hinge. Even with it folded over, I’m not sure I’ll have enough clearance to leave it on when pulled into the toy hauler. Still need to check that.
Again – thanks for stopping by!
Picked up a new-to-me vise after work on Friday. A little bit of an upgrade, I think. I’ve been using that little Columbia for quite a while now. The new one is a horrible gold color, so that will need to change. Overall doesn’t seem like it’s in bad shape. I’d like to make a receiver-hitch mount for it and clear off the top of my work cart. Eventually I’d like to make a real work table to attach it to.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
So the Mrs. was out of town for the weekend, so I had a lot of QST to work on the radio installation. My goals are to have it durable, considering the hammering the car is going to get, but also want it to be serviceable for removal and replacement of the electronics if needed.
Here’s what’s going into the car. The little Btech ham radio and the Rugged Radio intercom.
The intercom came with little aluminum angle-iron pieces for mounting brackets, which were useless for what I wanted to do, but the ham radio bracket is something I could work with. So I started by making this piece.
And bolted the ham radio mount to it. The thought is that this will hold both pieces of comm gear as a cassette of sorts. Want to be able to pull just this out without removing the whole framework/console.
At this point I took a break and installed some fender flare extensions that the brown truck dropped off. Very easy install and some immediate project-completion gratification.
Rear fender before:
Rear after:
Front before:
Front after:
I dig it and general consensus is that they are very helpful.
Here’s what’s going into the car. The little Btech ham radio and the Rugged Radio intercom.
The intercom came with little aluminum angle-iron pieces for mounting brackets, which were useless for what I wanted to do, but the ham radio bracket is something I could work with. So I started by making this piece.
And bolted the ham radio mount to it. The thought is that this will hold both pieces of comm gear as a cassette of sorts. Want to be able to pull just this out without removing the whole framework/console.
At this point I took a break and installed some fender flare extensions that the brown truck dropped off. Very easy install and some immediate project-completion gratification.
Rear fender before:
Rear after:
Front before:
Front after:
I dig it and general consensus is that they are very helpful.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
So back to the radio install…
Built this cage to mount under the dash. Theoretically once finalized I shouldn’t need to remove this for radio maintenance. The cassette should bolt into and be removed separately from the frame. There’s a ¾” square steel tube running underneath across the dash the front two mounting points are going to be self-tapped into. There’s an intersecting 2” or so square steel tube running front-to-back that the rear right gets bolted to. There’s already a hole in that tube with a corresponding cut-out to allow for wrench access. Not sure what the original intent was, but I know what it’s for now. The rear left mount gets attached to the steering column bracket, which already has a convenient hole in place that I can use for attachment.
Welded some M6 nuts to the cassette. One on each side and two on the bottom. Had to clearance the ham radio bracket a little for the nuts to pass through. These are what should hold the cassette in place inside the frame.
After a couple tweaks for fitment, it’s bolted in-place.
Next up is skinning it. Using some .050” steel sheet. The bottom and sides were pretty straight-forward.
The face-plate had me a little nervous, being this is what you see first and the most. Plus with the cut-outs for the gear, placement is critical. More CAD work.
Cut out the piece and corresponding holes, along with taking it to the press brake so the edges wrap around the side. That way the mounting screws won’t be visible from the front.
Not too shabby.
And that’s where I ran out of steam for the weekend. Still need to do one final installation check-fit for faceplate clearance before tearing it down for paint.
Built this cage to mount under the dash. Theoretically once finalized I shouldn’t need to remove this for radio maintenance. The cassette should bolt into and be removed separately from the frame. There’s a ¾” square steel tube running underneath across the dash the front two mounting points are going to be self-tapped into. There’s an intersecting 2” or so square steel tube running front-to-back that the rear right gets bolted to. There’s already a hole in that tube with a corresponding cut-out to allow for wrench access. Not sure what the original intent was, but I know what it’s for now. The rear left mount gets attached to the steering column bracket, which already has a convenient hole in place that I can use for attachment.
Welded some M6 nuts to the cassette. One on each side and two on the bottom. Had to clearance the ham radio bracket a little for the nuts to pass through. These are what should hold the cassette in place inside the frame.
After a couple tweaks for fitment, it’s bolted in-place.
Next up is skinning it. Using some .050” steel sheet. The bottom and sides were pretty straight-forward.
The face-plate had me a little nervous, being this is what you see first and the most. Plus with the cut-outs for the gear, placement is critical. More CAD work.
Cut out the piece and corresponding holes, along with taking it to the press brake so the edges wrap around the side. That way the mounting screws won’t be visible from the front.
Not too shabby.
And that’s where I ran out of steam for the weekend. Still need to do one final installation check-fit for faceplate clearance before tearing it down for paint.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Excellent work Todd. The radio mount and faceplate looks great.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Great work as per usual. Nice find on the Reed 204.5 old vise. It’s pretty much one of the best old vises that should do about 90-95% of most guys shops vise work. Don’t use as a press or hit it hard with hammers and it will be in as good of shape when you’re gone to the golden garage. Strip it and put on a few light coats of BLO (boiled linseed oil) and if you like color you can paint it your favorite color later.personally I like my vises naked. I’d buy or make a nice set of copper or aluminum jaw covers that will not only protect your old vice but give it s bit of extra grip too. I started a three years ago about vise stands and other ways to mount a vise in fabrication section you might take a look at if you have time and want to see lots of ways to mount your cool old Reed. The hitch mount on a fab or welding table is a great way to use it cause you can also mount grinders and other things in that hitch or have everything removed if you need table room.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Mike – Thank you, much appreciated!
Drives – Thanks! When it comes time I think I’ll give the BLO a try, I believe I have some in the cabinet. A naked vise saves me the stress of choosing a paint color.
Getting close to the finish line!
Got the bolts for the roof and installed them, calling this good and done.
Finished up the last of the wiring – power and ground for comms, plus situated the PTT buttons. One on the steering wheel for the driver and the other to the grab bar for the passenger.
Tackled another first for me…installing a coax connector for the antenna. Got one of those nifty coax strippers that supposed to do it in one shot. Evidently I went too cheap and wasn’t able to get it to work well. Resorted to an Exacto blade and wire strippers, which worked just fine. The ratcheting crmpers worked fantastic, though.
Before I got too far into the install I plugged in the radio and tested it. Uploaded a bunch of pre-programmed channels.
It’s been a few days since paint, so it should be cured enough for install. I went with a flat black this time, instead of the usually gloss. figured it might more closely match the interior plastics.
Hooked everything up and tried to keep the power wires away from the antenna and communication cables, as recommended. Only so much you can do in such a cramped space, though.
Installed. Only had to pull the passenger side panel off once, forgot to install the mic clip.
Tested it out and everything seems to work fine. Pretty happy with the results so far and still need to take it for a test drive to see if anything rattles or falls apart.
Oh, and I woke up at 2am this morning with the realization that I only hand-tightened the two side bolts that attach the cassette to the frame (the two on the bottom are tight, but still…). Fortunately the side panels come off pretty easy and both bolts are readily accessible. Guess I’ll be doing that tonight.
Drives – Thanks! When it comes time I think I’ll give the BLO a try, I believe I have some in the cabinet. A naked vise saves me the stress of choosing a paint color.
Getting close to the finish line!
Got the bolts for the roof and installed them, calling this good and done.
Finished up the last of the wiring – power and ground for comms, plus situated the PTT buttons. One on the steering wheel for the driver and the other to the grab bar for the passenger.
Tackled another first for me…installing a coax connector for the antenna. Got one of those nifty coax strippers that supposed to do it in one shot. Evidently I went too cheap and wasn’t able to get it to work well. Resorted to an Exacto blade and wire strippers, which worked just fine. The ratcheting crmpers worked fantastic, though.
Before I got too far into the install I plugged in the radio and tested it. Uploaded a bunch of pre-programmed channels.
It’s been a few days since paint, so it should be cured enough for install. I went with a flat black this time, instead of the usually gloss. figured it might more closely match the interior plastics.
Hooked everything up and tried to keep the power wires away from the antenna and communication cables, as recommended. Only so much you can do in such a cramped space, though.
Installed. Only had to pull the passenger side panel off once, forgot to install the mic clip.
Tested it out and everything seems to work fine. Pretty happy with the results so far and still need to take it for a test drive to see if anything rattles or falls apart.
Oh, and I woke up at 2am this morning with the realization that I only hand-tightened the two side bolts that attach the cassette to the frame (the two on the bottom are tight, but still…). Fortunately the side panels come off pretty easy and both bolts are readily accessible. Guess I’ll be doing that tonight.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice work Todd. You should be good to go for your upcoming trip. Don't you just hate those 2 AM wake-up realizations?
j p smith
Well-known member
Todd you have done an awesome job on this whole project and will enjoy having it in your UTV
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Dan – Thanks! And yes, but I guess it’s better to realize it than not at all and find it later at the worst possible moment!
Jeff – Much appreciated! We took it out for a quick jaunt in the desert by the house and everything still seems to work and nothing fell off. I’m going to call it a win!
Two more small touches added to the Can Am.
First thing was to add a little shield guard for the Switch Pro wires that were visible between the seat back and bottom. Bent up a small scrap of aluminum and drilled a couple holes in it. Zip tied thru the holes to the round cross bar the wires run under. Didn’t get a good Before picture with the seat bottom in place, but it’s just the wires coming out of the switch are visible between the two.
After paint and install.
The next thing seems kind of silly. The shift console has this raised plastic ridge that the bony part of my right knee makes contact with while driving. Not a huge deal, but after a long ride of constant pressure while running the brakes/gas it gets to be a bit uncomfortable. Figured it would be nice if this was padded. Looked around for what was handy and found this old mouse pad. Debated between using the thicker gel wrist-rest piece or the thinner mouse pad area. Opted for the thinner piece as I think that should be sufficient, it’s about 3/8” thick.
Used some of that 3M adhesive spray to make it stick.
After that quick test run in the desert, I think this should do the trick.
Nothing left to do on the Can Am for now (I really should wash it, though) I moved onto the next project. The plasma table. Kind of excited about this, not only to have plasma cutting capability (CNC and manual) but the next project after getting the table up and running is to start working the Scout. It’s been far too long.
Anyways, I opened up all the boxes and laid everything out for assembly.
Loosely put the frame together.
And that’s where I ran out of steam for the weekend. Thanks for watching!
Jeff – Much appreciated! We took it out for a quick jaunt in the desert by the house and everything still seems to work and nothing fell off. I’m going to call it a win!
Two more small touches added to the Can Am.
First thing was to add a little shield guard for the Switch Pro wires that were visible between the seat back and bottom. Bent up a small scrap of aluminum and drilled a couple holes in it. Zip tied thru the holes to the round cross bar the wires run under. Didn’t get a good Before picture with the seat bottom in place, but it’s just the wires coming out of the switch are visible between the two.
After paint and install.
The next thing seems kind of silly. The shift console has this raised plastic ridge that the bony part of my right knee makes contact with while driving. Not a huge deal, but after a long ride of constant pressure while running the brakes/gas it gets to be a bit uncomfortable. Figured it would be nice if this was padded. Looked around for what was handy and found this old mouse pad. Debated between using the thicker gel wrist-rest piece or the thinner mouse pad area. Opted for the thinner piece as I think that should be sufficient, it’s about 3/8” thick.
Used some of that 3M adhesive spray to make it stick.
After that quick test run in the desert, I think this should do the trick.
Nothing left to do on the Can Am for now (I really should wash it, though) I moved onto the next project. The plasma table. Kind of excited about this, not only to have plasma cutting capability (CNC and manual) but the next project after getting the table up and running is to start working the Scout. It’s been far too long.
Anyways, I opened up all the boxes and laid everything out for assembly.
Loosely put the frame together.
And that’s where I ran out of steam for the weekend. Thanks for watching!
harley jim
Well-known member
Todd I have been watching your build for a while, you have talent and vision, sometimes I believe the vision is more important than talent but you dont have a worry.
I may have missed it but did you trim the swr's on that antenna. Getting it as close to 1 to 1 will give you the maximum talk range, that could be important where you go.
I may have missed it but did you trim the swr's on that antenna. Getting it as close to 1 to 1 will give you the maximum talk range, that could be important where you go.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Jim – Thanks for checking out my stuff and the words of encouragement, much appreciated! Regarding the radio – Dang it! In all my “project completion” excitement and plasma table anticipation, I totally forgot about SWR adjustments. When I got the radio I also picked up one of these:
Guess I’ll need to read the directions and learn how to use it. And, I’ll need to take one of the console side panels off (yet again) to hook it up to the radio. I’ve got left-over connectors, and coax from trimming the antenna line to size, so can make a jumper to go from the radio to the meter. If I remember correctly, from reading the leaflet on the Diamond antenna, they advise not cutting the actual antenna as they have built into it some sort of set-screw adjustment method of shortening/lengthening it into its own base. Will see if I can get that done after work this week.
Thank you for the reminder! A good example of one of those 2am realizations that never came! I definitely want to square this way in order to squeeze the best performance out of that little unit.
Guess I’ll need to read the directions and learn how to use it.
And, I’ll need to take one of the console side panels off (yet again) to hook it up to the radio. I’ve got left-over connectors, and coax from trimming the antenna line to size, so can make a jumper to go from the radio to the meter. If I remember correctly, from reading the leaflet on the Diamond antenna, they advise not cutting the actual antenna as they have built into it some sort of set-screw adjustment method of shortening/lengthening it into its own base. Will see if I can get that done after work this week.Thank you for the reminder! A good example of one of those 2am realizations that never came! I definitely want to square this way in order to squeeze the best performance out of that little unit.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Gave the Can Am a bath this weekend. Gotta clean it up before it gets dirty, I suppose?
I also couldn’t help myself and got the factory door bags for some extra storage. With the door being concave there, the amount of room the bag takes up in the cab is negligible. I think the extra bit of convenience it yields will be worth it.
Broke out the SWR meter and made a jumper cable.
Pulled the driver’s side panel off the radio console
Hooked up the meter
Pulled the car out from the shop, away from other structures as recommended, for the testing. Measuring from the center of each band, I got a 2.0 on 2 meters, and just about perfect on 70cm and 1.25 meters, coming in around 1.03 and 1.05 if I remember correctly. The antenna did have two set screws in the base allowing you to shorten or lengthen it, and seemed like making it shorter gave me worse numbers on 2m, so I lengthened it as much as the adjustment allowed which brought it down to 1.8 or so. The other bands changed a very small amount as well, but only by a small amount. For now I’m calling it good enough for this trip.
Since the cover was off, I took the opportunity to upload some updates to my channel list.
If nothing else, it was a good exercise in doing maintenance on the comm gear. Panel removal isn’t too bad and I can still access the wiring and such for repairs/updates.
The car is done for the trip, now need to get the toy hauler cleaned up prepped for departure.
I also couldn’t help myself and got the factory door bags for some extra storage. With the door being concave there, the amount of room the bag takes up in the cab is negligible. I think the extra bit of convenience it yields will be worth it.
Broke out the SWR meter and made a jumper cable.
Pulled the driver’s side panel off the radio console
Hooked up the meter
Pulled the car out from the shop, away from other structures as recommended, for the testing. Measuring from the center of each band, I got a 2.0 on 2 meters, and just about perfect on 70cm and 1.25 meters, coming in around 1.03 and 1.05 if I remember correctly. The antenna did have two set screws in the base allowing you to shorten or lengthen it, and seemed like making it shorter gave me worse numbers on 2m, so I lengthened it as much as the adjustment allowed which brought it down to 1.8 or so. The other bands changed a very small amount as well, but only by a small amount. For now I’m calling it good enough for this trip.
Since the cover was off, I took the opportunity to upload some updates to my channel list.
If nothing else, it was a good exercise in doing maintenance on the comm gear. Panel removal isn’t too bad and I can still access the wiring and such for repairs/updates.
The car is done for the trip, now need to get the toy hauler cleaned up prepped for departure.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Nice work as per usual and door bags look great. Hope you have a great time and you’ll see if all your hard work paid off.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have the exact same SWR meter for my GMRS radio Todd. Works well. Took it to our Colorado and South Dakota gatherings and did a little tweaking for fellow club members/friends.
OP
StormcrowAz
Well-known member
Got back from three days of wheeling in Moab. Finally checked that off my bucket list, I should have done so a long time ago. I took my dad with me and what a beautiful place to get out and enjoy. We did Fins and Things, Hells Revenge, Poison Spider, and Seven Mile Rim. Our group consisted of two Jeeps and an X3 XRC. Also happy to report all of the recent upgrades/additions to my rig worked great. Most notably the intercom and rear-facing camera. Being able to talk to your co-driver without yelling was a worth-while investment. With the spare tire blocking your view, the rear-facing camera was much-used. Anyways…lots of pictures, here’s just a few:
We stopped for a couple minutes at the Escalator on the Hells Revenge run. Two guys in four-door rigs picked bad lines and took some damage. The first guy managed to power out, but had to winch the second guy up.
On Poison Spider our guy with the X3 got a little tippy. Scuffed some plastic and a dime-sized patch of paint from his cage.
We stopped for a couple minutes at the Escalator on the Hells Revenge run. Two guys in four-door rigs picked bad lines and took some damage. The first guy managed to power out, but had to winch the second guy up.
On Poison Spider our guy with the X3 got a little tippy. Scuffed some plastic and a dime-sized patch of paint from his cage.