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Essential power tools for an auto tech

rider9195

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Hey everyone, I am currently in a two year auto tech program in college. I got the required tool list but I was wondering what power tools(air or electric) you would recommend. I just have a 1/2 IR impact(air) and Porter Cable 1/4 impact driver.

So what essential air or electric power tools would you guys recommend for an auto tech?
 
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aussiek2000

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Only electric tools I have are a M18 Milwaukee 1/2" drill, and a M12 1/4" impact. All other power tools I use are air, 3/8 impact, 1/2 impact, air ratchets, die grinder, cut off wheel, 3/8 drill, air hammers.
 

firebox40dash5

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I've got an IR 308B with a cutoff wheel, a smaller straight grinder for burrs, and a 90 degree with a 2" Roloc. Also have a 3/4, 1/2 and 3/8 impact and air hammer. I'd call all but the 3/4 gun "essential" but it depends on what you're doing. I work in an independent, and deal with rusty junk a lot more than I want to, so I have a lot of tools to "just make it work". :lol:

Cordless is all M12, save for an M18 Fuel 3/8 impact. In M12 I've got the Fuel drill and impact driver, and a Hackzall and both LED lights. I've gotta say, the M12 stick light is kinda pricey, but it kicks ***. We've got about 4 EZ Red lights and they tend to die a pretty quick death, they do NOT like to fall. I've dropped the stick light plenty of times and it works fine, plus the lens is replaceable IIRC. I'd buy all my cordless tools again if I had to so far. The M18 impact doesn't have the balls of an air gun, but if I had to pick just one, I'd have the M18 and just use a 1/2 air gun when it wouldn't cut it.
 

richfinn

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Leeds, Yorkshire, England
1. 1/2 inch impacts air/cordless (get both)
2. Drill with 3/8 chuck air/cordless (get both)
3. Impact driver cordless
4. Die grinder (air)
5. 3/8 impact preferably cordless
6. Air hammer
7. Angle grinder
8. Disc Cut off tool

Air saw is nice to have
Belt sander is useful occasionally
 

abvw

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Toronto, Canada
1/4" air die grinders in different angles with long shaft roloc disc pads to clean gasket surfaces. Nothing will piss you off more than when you're resorted to using a flathead screwdriver to clean RTV gaskets underneath the car.

The 3/8" right angle Ingersoll Rand impact (2015TIMAX) is actually quite nice to have for FWD transmission and exhaust work. I wouldn't get the 1/2", as 3/8" sockets are smaller.
 

theknurl

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SoCal
1/2" impact air
3/8" impact air
3/8" air ratchet
drill with 1/2" chuck
die grinder air
air hammer
4 1/2" angle grinder corded
disc cut off tool air

put the double swivels on the air tools (you'll thank me)

this is richfinn's list, modified by doing this stuff for a long time:)
 
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crewchief888

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Hey everyone, I am currently in a two year auto tech program in college. I got the required tool list but I was wondering what power tools(air or electric) you would recommend. I just have a 1/2 IR impact(air) and Porter Cable 1/4 impact driver.

So what essential air or electric power tools would you guys recommend for an auto tech?


corded 4 1/2" grinder with a wire brush, grinding wheel, and cutoff wheels

90* die grinder with roloc or scotchbrite pads

cordless 3/8" dr impact, and a cordless drill compatable with the batteries.
pick your favorite color...

ultimately, your air/corded/cordless tool selection will depend on the type of work you're doing.

or example, a guy doing undercar and front end work wont get much use out of a DA...

over the years, you'll accumulate everything you want or need


:beer:
 

KinzeMech

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Typically for removing gaskets. It's actually not recommended. The fine aluminum oxide grit they throw off is fine enough to pass through the oil filter, but still coarse enough to wreck an engine.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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Mentioned twice already, what are they used for? (I feel my wallet starting to quiver already... :scared: )

cleanup of just about anything -- I use mine often just to strip off a spot of paint to weld on a mounting stud for adding parts / options on machinery we sell. Stripping gaskets is very common.
But if you use it for gaskets, only do so on stuff you can completely wash afterwards -- the scotch-brite stuff is very abrasive and will do nasty things if you allow the cast off particles to get places it should not be - like inside an engine.


Edit: I'd Say the short list of starter power tools would be:
1/2 impact
3" cut-off tool
die grinders -- straight and 90*

The rest you will add as you go, like others said.....and some of it is pretty specialized - you may never have need for a DA or an air hacksaw.
 
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cheechi

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Triad, NC
I'm surprised to see the short list is the 1/2 and not the 3/8 impact. This is a question not a criticism, but why is that? More than just the difference in torque?
 

Lotek

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I would suggest starting with hand tools instead of impacts for nuts and bolts, just coming out of school, you should learn how tight is tight with hand tools before adding power to the mix, forget the angle grinder and roloc pads at first, until you get the feel and know when and when not to use rolocs, you will do more harm than good. Your first year or so will probably be on the lube rack anyway, all you will need is a 1/2" impact to remove lugnuts, get a torque wrench to tighten them, it's a good habit to get into.
 
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KinzeMech

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I'm surprised to see the short list is the 1/2 and not the 3/8 impact. This is a question not a criticism, but why is that? More than just the difference in torque?

Much broader range of sizes in sockets. My 1/2" impact socket set goes from 3/8 all the way to 1-1/2". The same set in 3/8" goes from 5/16" to 15/16". So, the only thing a 3/8" does that a 1/2" doesn't is fasteners with a 5/16" head.
 

shockwave

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Marietta,ga
Get a

3/8 impact (cordless and pneumatic)
Die grinder (straight and right angle)
Drill 3/8
Air hammer
Air ratchet 3/8 and 1/4
 
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Dust

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Electric screwdriver. A small 4 volt unit is perfect for trim. Be warned, though; a lot of them are not up to heavy torque loads, and even semi-tight screws may break the internal pot metal gears. Don't ask how I know.

A small cordless 3/8 impact is great for underbelly pans. I love my Dewalt 12v Max, just the right amount of torque for underbelly pan screws and most interior bolts up to M10.
 
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fxgmech

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Essential power tools for an auto tech?
Your brain!
...Your first year or so will probably be on the lube rack anyway, all you will need is a 1/2" impact to remove lugnuts, get a torque wrench to tighten them, it's a good habit to get into...
If you're on the lube rack for a while I think you'll hear complaints about stripped engine oil drain plugs. It was probably worn out already anyway but guess who takes the blame. So, another good habit to get in to is torque all drain plugs to spec. While I'm under there getting dripped on anyway a good rep for at least putting it back together right has served me well, no matter what I found on the way in.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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I'm surprised to see the short list is the 1/2 and not the 3/8 impact. This is a question not a criticism, but why is that? More than just the difference in torque?

No problem, it's exactly that torque issue -- 3/8 sized stuff is generally easier to spin, so 1/2 gun is a bigger help to your work for larger stuff. The 3/8 gun doesn't really start to do you a lot of good 'till you have a large number of small hardware in a single job, IMO.
 

woody 73

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Invest in a few good swivel whip hoses and someone said double swivel which are also nice to have around.

A good 1/2 for the larger jobs.
look for a good 3/8 impact.
cut off tool for exhaust work.
die grinder.
air hammer.

Get into a good habit of every morning adding a few drop of air tool oil to your tools.

For electric a good drill either air, cordless or corded.
I like my air saw, but a corded will be ok and the cordless will eat up your batteries asap.

pick up a set of the best hearing, eye glasses and gloves that money will buy because things go flying, dirt comes out 24/7 and your hands will thank you.

stay away from cheap drill bits, cheap grinding and cut off wheels and you should be ok.

Hope this will help you out.
 

firebox40dash5

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cleanup of just about anything -- I use mine often just to strip off a spot of paint to weld on a mounting stud for adding parts / options on machinery we sell. Stripping gaskets is very common.
But if you use it for gaskets, only do so on stuff you can completely wash afterwards -- the scotch-brite stuff is very abrasive and will do nasty things if you allow the cast off particles to get places it should not be - like inside an engine.

Or if you want to really hurt your wallet, bristle pads for gaskets. Still need to be able to clean out the gasket material, but you don't get a bunch of Scothbrite abrasive dust too. But they're about $10 a pop, though they last longer than Scotchbrite.
 
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rider9195

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corded 4 1/2" grinder with a wire brush, grinding wheel, and cutoff wheels

90* die grinder with roloc or scotchbrite pads

cordless 3/8" dr impact, and a cordless drill compatable with the batteries.
pick your favorite color...

ultimately, your air/corded/cordless tool selection will depend on the type of work you're doing.

or example, a guy doing undercar and front end work wont get much use out of a DA...

over the years, you'll accumulate everything you want or need


:beer:

Good point, thanks! I forgot to mention I do have a Dewalt 4.5 grinder with various discs and wheels, just got it.

I would suggest starting with hand tools instead of impacts for nuts and bolts, just coming out of school, you should learn how tight is tight with hand tools before adding power to the mix, forget the angle grinder and roloc pads at first, until you get the feel and know when and when not to use rolocs, you will do more harm than good. Your first year or so will probably be on the lube rack anyway, all you will need is a 1/2" impact to remove lugnuts, get a torque wrench to tighten them, it's a good habit to get into.

I have worked in a shop for a year or so, so I do have a fairly good idea of what tight is. I totally agree with what you are saying though. Thanks! :thumbup:

Essential power tools for an auto tech?
Your brain!
...Your first year or so will probably be on the lube rack anyway, all you will need is a 1/2" impact to remove lugnuts, get a torque wrench to tighten them, it's a good habit to get into...
If you're on the lube rack for a while I think you'll hear complaints about stripped engine oil drain plugs. It was probably worn out already anyway but guess who takes the blame. So, another good habit to get in to is torque all drain plugs to spec. While I'm under there getting dripped on anyway a good rep for at least putting it back together right has served me well, no matter what I found on the way in.

I most likely will be doing the basic maintenance, hopefully. I am pretty good about torquing everything I can to spec as it makes me feel better that everything will stay where it is.

Thanks for the advice guys. I will probably be getting an 3/8 impact soon as well as an air ratchet and drill. Don't have a ton of money at the moment, so maybe I will find a couple used.

Thanks again! :thumbup:
 

Fedwrench

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Initially depending on who hires you, think entry level skills such as wheels off and wheels on. Good 1/2 drive impact, deep impact socket 19, 21, 22mm, torquesticks yellow, blue, grey, etc.

However, once you get experience and your employer gains trust and confidence in your work, you'll want power or cordless everything. Why? time is money and eliminating anything done by hand save time and makes you more money.:beer:
 

czgunner

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I would say torque sticks instead of a torque wrench, but I guess it's all about your skill level.
 

akhappy

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Alaska
Get a rechargeable flashlight, no sense in buying batteries continuously.

I use a flashlight, Snap On 7.2v Driver, and a IR2135timax more than any other tools in the box, hands down.
 

mikebramel

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WI
One of the first things you will want is the W7150 cordless impact, most powerful 1/2" impact air or cordless. The Superior Pneumatic air hammer for front end work. The Milwaukee M12 3/8" for small fasteners also get the 1/2" M12 drill. Also the Aircat die grinders have good power and are quiet.

also the M12 ratchet
 
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