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Evapo - Rust

MarkH

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Dec 19, 2005
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Does work great, I watched my items for a month when a few of the worst were trying to rust again. Gave them a second treatment.

On steel like a file steel and most tools works well. The ones that it did not work well on had a different sound when dropped on metal. So there may be a few high in ???? metals that do not clean well.
 
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Bolster

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Jul 8, 2008
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Great results here, I like Evapo-Rust much better than HD's Must For Rust. The E-R seems gentler and the rust just drops off. The E-R has no unpleasant smell, and does not turn tools yellow-gold like MFR does. Also I don't think that E-R is acidic like MFR is (or at least, not as potent).

On the other hand, I think MFR protects the surface longer. MFR seems to substitute its own surface, whereas E-R just takes the rust off and doesn't replace it with anything. E-R is more what the restorer is looking for, whereas MFR may be more what you want if your tools will be exposed to damp conditions in the future.

Also, MFR is sprayed on. E-R requires soaking. So MFR is probably the better solution for larger parts, but I have not tested spraying MFR.

Note: E-R will treat black oxide as rust.
 
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81Seca

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Dec 1, 2008
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Note: E-R will treat black oxide as rust.[/QUOTE]

I didnt know that. Was gonna use it on my Snappy Industrial finish wrenches. I guess it'll be an electrolysis setup, since I already have the charger, rebar, and washing soda.
 

Bolster

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Well, I should have said, "E-R will treat Craftsman black oxide as rust." Don't know about Snappy.

The final result is acceptable, gets rid of the rust, but no longer black, more of a medium-brown.
 

Vinko

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Note: E-R will treat black oxide as rust.

Question: I don't know for sure, but about the same time that this thread was started I started one on Evapo-Rust and put some black oxided, rusted parts into a bucket of it.

My take was the rust had already eaten through the black oxide (which isn't that great of a rust prohibitive. So I wonder if the E-R is treating the BO as rust or if the rust has already eaten through the BO, and what you're seeing is just the rust gone (and the BO gone).
 

senlow

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Black oxide can be considered a form of rust. A better way to deal with rust on black oxided parts is to convert the rust to black oxide. It's simple. Just remove any heavy rust with steel wool, wire wheel or other method. Then boil the parts in distilled water for at least 20 minutes. Remove the parts, and blow them off with air. The rust should now be converted to black oxide. Finally, oil the parts. Black oxide, as you have learned does not prevent rust. However, it is porous and will hold a coat of oil wich helps to prevent corrosion.
 

Frank Elson

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I haven't found Evaporust locally yet so I was going to use white vinegar as per other threads.
Can someone tell me, can I put wooden handles in as well?
 

Jononon

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I haven't found Evaporust locally yet so I was going to use white vinegar as per other threads.
Can someone tell me, can I put wooden handles in as well?

Vinegar will draw the oil out of the wood, if it was originally treated with linseed or tung oil, but that's not necessarily a bad thing if you were going to treat the handles to a re-coat anyway.

BTW: Evaporust is available over here, from Caswell, although I've never seen it in a shop.
 
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Bolster

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So I wonder if the E-R is treating the BO as rust or if the rust has already eaten through the BO, and what you're seeing is just the rust gone (and the BO gone).

Not in my case, I had a black oxide socket with just a little rust on one side, and the other side was fine. After treatment the rust and the black oxide were gone.
 

Frank Elson

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Vinegar will draw the oil out of the wood, if it was originally treated with linseed or tung oil, but that's not necessarily a bad thing if you were going to treat the handles to a re-coat anyway.

BTW: Evaporust is available over here, from Caswell, although I've never seen it in a shop.

thanks mate, but at £25 a throw I'll stick with the white vinegar I think :)
that, plus wire wool and the wire wheel on my bench grinder have managed all the rust I've had to worry about so far.
The only things I am bothered about with wooden handles are the old drivers I have. They were painted red and I'd like to keep them as they are. I'll see how I get on with mechanical means before devising some way of hangin them partly in the vinegar.
I never worried about a spot of rust on tools till I found this site.
 
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Danglerb

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I bought a gallon from HF and the biggest snapon lid plastic tray I could find at Walmart, and have been dropping various items in for a soak for the last couple months. It seems to work on everything so far, leaves most with a gray to dark gray finish.

At first I cut the top off an oil bottle, but this stuff does evaporate, and if a part sticks out you end up with a line and two shades of gray.

Anybody know how the surface is changed? I am thinking about putting in some parts I want to have cadmium plated, and see how they turn out.
 

Bolster

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I get the most "original" looking metal if I leave it in for the least amount of time needed. As you say, it gets darker gray if you leave it in longer. No complaints, it looks nice. Doesn't go "gold" like other treatment products.

I am curious what will happen to your cadmium plated piece, please keep us posted...
 

Chris Adams

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Oct 21, 2007
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My old thread is back again!!!


I bought some of that at HF yesterday. Works GREAT.

And I wished I had read this thread before I restored an old rusty cabinet.
I used vinegar, navel jelly, sand, wire brushes etc. Should have just bought a jug of Evapo-rust.
 

mbatarga

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Sep 14, 2005
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GA
I thought I had posted my Evapo Rust results with pictures on this forum before, but I realized tonight they were over on the home machinist forum:

I just purchased a used Smithy 3 in 1 that had rust on all exposed metal due to a shop fire where some PVC pipe burned. The previous owner had let it sit for several years with no treatment. I did a web search for rust removal and found links to the Evapo-rust web site and even though a bit skeptical of the product, I decided to give it a try. I ordered some from a local distributor and have used it the past 2 weeks to clean up the machine.

First I used an old wood chisel to scrap off the top layer of rust, dust and dirt. Aside from using a toothbrush on the more stubborn areas and nooks and crannies, I only used a paper towel to wipe down the parts after soaking for a few hours. I give you the results:
Before and After
 

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Roadsters.com

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Oct 15, 2008
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Phoenix, Arizona
Re: Evapo-Rust

1911_770x320.jpg


Here are a couple of Ford pitman arms that I soaked in Evapo-Rust.

A couple of years ago I bought a five-gallon drum of Evapo-Rust directly from the manufacturer. (Sorry, but I don't remember what it cost.)

Evapo-Rust is a terrific product that I have no reservations about recommending. It's great to be able to clean up old parts without using anything abrasive. Like Simple Green, I also like its being virtually odorless and something you can dip your hand in if you need to without any problems.

One key point about Evapo-Rust that I didn't notice mentioned in this thread is that it is intended to be used in a sealed container because oxygen reduces its effectiveness. The factory rep told me that to get the best results, put your parts into a container, fill it right up with Evapo-Rust, and then tightly seal the lid.

The Evapo-Rust site is at http://www.evaporust.com/

Dave
http://www.roadsters.com/
 

Chris Adams

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Oct 21, 2007
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OK, found another reason to like the Evaporust.

I was cleaning before painting a steel roller rack. It had been left out in the rain a few times and had rust where the original enamel paint had been chipped or dinged. A couple of pretty big dings and some holes were also quite rusty.

I pounded out the dings with a hammer and dolly, then started sanding on the rusty areas.

I used Evaporust as lubricant for my sanding, rather than water.

WOW. The rust just disappeared.
I've been soaking things in this stuff but this time I was just using it during the sanding, no soaking.
Worked great. I was able to paint it right away with no soaking, no left over rust.
 

tpolley

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Dec 26, 2008
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kansas city
+3 for evapo rust. and the great thing is i poured the stuff back in the bottle so i can re-use it.
 

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KenB

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Dec 8, 2008
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Pittsburgh, PA
What's the consensus for preventing rust after using Evapo-Rust on rusty tools? I've seen WD-40 and Boeshield T-9 recommended in other threads. Leaning towards T-9 myself, since WD tends to evaporate after awhile. Any other success stories?


Ken
 
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