Unfortunately there probably is little you can do in your situation. Evap coolers move so much air that pre-filtering it thoroughly enough to get rid of tobacco smoke would likely kill the efficiency.
Evaporative Cooler tricks
- Thread starter bonneyman
- Start date
Unfortunately there probably is little you can do in your situation. Evap coolers move so much air that pre-filtering it thoroughly enough to get rid of tobacco smoke would likely kill the efficiency.
The internal; coating in my master cool is bubbling up and sloughing off as well. I've tried cleaning, cooler coating, even epoxy. Nothing sticks for long.
As I recall MasterCool used a proprietary process to triple zinc-dip the sheet steel and then applied this rather hard coating to protect against rust. This is why nothing over the counter will adhere to it. This was a very durable coating with a lifetime warranty against rust out, but, since they went bankrupt, I'm left scrambling to find a solution.
I think I might try that Flex-Seal stuff.
Hmmm. I have not had your great luck with the Clean machines.
It's like they're just another thing to break, though they do keep the water fresh in the pan. After a rash of weekend recalls on "it's blowing hot air again!" I tend to unplug them.
fsae0607
Well-known member
How's that? The purge pump is completely separate from the pump that wets the pads. If the purge pump fails, all that will happen is that the sump water won't get dumped. Maybe I'm missing something here?
I've had the purge pump in my cooler going on its third year and it works great. I have the champion brand (orange colored) one.
A clean machine has nothing to do with pumping water to the pads....google it for info on how it works, if you wish.
As for their reliability, I've replaced two in the 10 years I've had this house.....and that's with 5 coolers, as I stated. They were both in the coolers when I bought the house (which was built 9 years before I bought it), so I really don't know exactly how long they'd been in service.
Obviously, your mileage has varied.....
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Wish I had a decent suggestion for you.....I'd be inclined to come up with something that smelled worse than their smoke, that you could use to show them what you're going through.
The smell of rotting flesh is about as bad as it gets. How to make them have to smell that, without your having to smell it as well.....hmmmm???
bad luck
Well-known member
Does anyone know of a way to prop a door open a couple inches to allow the air to get out? Yet still be able to open and close the door easily. Maybe some kind of a magnet. If you have any good solutions please share them. Now we use two doorstops, but it is a pain in the ***, to move them anytime we need to enter or leave.
How's that? The purge pump is completely separate from the pump that wets the pads. If the purge pump fails, all that will happen is that the sump water won't get dumped. Maybe I'm missing something here?
I've had the purge pump in my cooler going on its third year and it works great. I have the champion brand (orange colored) one.
Most Clean Machines have a special plug on them, that allows you to unplug your regular pump, plug in the Clean Machine to that outlet, and then plug the regular pump into the back of the special plug.
In Tucson, we have a unique evap cooler code that requires us to use a Midwest Box. It has fuse adapters that restrict what size fuse you can install, so you don't put in what you have and then run with no real overamp protection. As such, the largest screw in fuse we can install on a cooler pump circuit is 1.6 amps. The regular pump draws 1.25. Put a Clean Machine in there, and - if the CM comes on while the regular pump is running - it blows the fuse. Usually on the hottest weekend. Out I go, no charge.
Some wire the CM into the blower motor circuit. Fine, it'll handle the extra load. But if the CM shorts and burns, it has no overamp protection - because most blower motor circuits are 15 amp. CM catches on fire, could be a big problem. Not going to take the chance on my insurance.
The only way I'd install a Clean Machine is on it's own dedicated circuit - with a 1.6 amp fuse - wired to a switch that the homeowner turns on every morning for 10 minutes while the cooler is off. That way, they get the stale water out, no blown fuses, no dry pads - and no free recalls for me!
Someone asked about odor control? This is what I use. A capfull is all it takes to sweeten up a cooler. It ain't cheap, but, you get what you pay for! Mind you it is for once or twice a year moldy odors, not a 24/7 thing.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002XJ15U/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002XJ15U/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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I'd try a foldable door stop at the top of the door. It'll holds the door open, won't impede you opening and closing the door, and flips out of the way when you leave and need to close the door.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Li...ith-Rubber-Foot-U-9219/100186092?N=5yc1vZc7kb
hkopp
Member
One thing you can try temporarily regarding your smoking neighbors is placing a few of those fly traps that have the powder mix with water attractant. Once mixed it smells like something dead and rotten, and it will attract flies to that area too. Granted the smell will also be drawn in, but after a few days or weeks of those being there I'm certain the smokers would move to a different area that 'smells' better. Then you can take them down. If two dont work...try a half dozen.
I did this to an area in our backyard where the neighborhood kids would gather by the fence to hide and smoke pot. Soon after placing the fly traps the kids never returned to that area. That was 3 yrs ago now.
I did this to an area in our backyard where the neighborhood kids would gather by the fence to hide and smoke pot. Soon after placing the fly traps the kids never returned to that area. That was 3 yrs ago now.