I've been buying vintage tools for $1 each at this junk store and decided that now would be a good time to try the evaporust. It definitely works but boy is it slow compared to more agressive things like naval jelly and the evil wire wheel. I have to admit that I do enjoy the instant satisfactin obtained by the wire wheel! There are some tools that are so rusty and don't have any plating where I feel that the wire wheel is an appropriate tool.
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Evaporust for 1st time
- Thread starter stricht8
- Start date
Wire wheel leaves too much damage. I walked away from an old Proto adjustable wrench today because end to end it had been wire brushed. As I was leaving I was thinking if the guy had just left it alone, dip in the old evaporust and it would be like new.
Funny you say this, because I just read a thread where a guy put three vintage wrenches to the wheel. The results were very nice looking, to my eyes. He took lots of before, during, and after pics. They looked new. I am dying to try it out on some old wrenches I have.
Wire wheel leaves too much damage. I walked away from an old Proto adjustable wrench today because end to end it had been wire brushed. As I was leaving I was thinking if the guy had just left it alone, dip in the old evaporust and it would be like new.
I can honestly say that if the tool is just plain steel with no coating or plating, I just can't see what damage the wire wheel does. Bottom line is if the tool is heavily rusted then it's already damaged because the evaporust will remove the rust but still leave unsightly pits in the steel. If the tool is lighty rusted then evaporust will make it look like new or alternatively a little fine steel wool and oil would do the job.
Maybe I could use some instruction on proper use of the wire wheel e.g. speed, coarse/ medium or fine etc. but I've never been satisfied with the way the wheel "flows" the metal into/over damaged or pitted areas. Even something as inconsequential as an old square nut, after the wire wheel I have to give it a pass with the file to make it look right.
I walk away from a lot of "wheeled" tools at flea markets.
I don't doubt bull's experience with the three wrenches, in fact, I'm rather curious to see a "good" wire wheel job. Like I said, I just may need some instruction.
I walk away from a lot of "wheeled" tools at flea markets.
I don't doubt bull's experience with the three wrenches, in fact, I'm rather curious to see a "good" wire wheel job. Like I said, I just may need some instruction.
I don't doubt bull's experience with the three wrenches, in fact, I'm rather curious to see a "good" wire wheel job. Like I said, I just may need some instruction.
I actually don't have any experience of my own. I just asked someone who does have lots of experience to make a thread that shows a step-by-step so that I know what to do when I try out the vintage Craftsman grinder I just got from my dad.
And what I saw for results were great.
I guess I just use my judgement. If the tool is really in bad shape, then I think thAT the wire wheel gives it a more uniform cleaner look rather than having too many inconsistencies in the finish with all the heavy pitting. But, that being said I'd probably hesitate to use the wheel on a valuable or important piece no matter how rusty it us.
Mickey O
Well-known member
For sockets, I put them on a 1/4" hex x 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2", etc. adapter and chuck them in my cordless drill/impact, hold fine steel wool in a gloved hand, press the sockets against them and spin them with the drill, then a little polishing compound and a rag in the gloved hand, another spin and they come out pretty nice. For wrenches I do it by hand mostly, very rarely a wire brush.
truckdriver
Well-known member
I bought an old set of SO 1/2 drive sockets at a pwanshop for $100(3/8- 1 1/8) because they were in bad shape cosmetically. I just used a yellow buffing wheel with red rouge to polish them to like new. Didn't leave scratches like a wire wheel. Finished them up with a cleen rag to remove residue.