I'll be putting 1/2" OSB on the walls of my shop soon. Nailing seems like the obvious choice, and by far the fastest/easiest, but I'm thinking about using screws to attach the OSB (at least in some specific areas) so that it can be removed without too much hassle. Is that way overthinking it? How often does somebody really need to get into a wall anyway? Does it make any sense to have removable sections near the breaker box or workbench areas for future upgrades? For those who've had to tear into a wall, why were you in there?
Ever had to take your wall(s) apart?
- Thread starter stm317
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Monza Harry
Well-known member
The section of garage added to the one that was there when I bought the house, I used OSB [chip/flake board] to "finish" the walls and secured it with drywall screws just for future access. Front/existing one will also be changed to this as it has little to no electrical power and only 2" insulation with and the attached paper vapor barrier (so no v' barrier). My considerations were adding and upgrading equipment. So to answer your question I feel it is almost essential, this way you will only need to touch up screw heads after re-entry, instead of re-cutting a new panel and painting to hopefully match. Harry
BuffettFan
Well-known member
I used pan head screws when I installed my OSB for the exact reason you mentioned, future access.
3 or 4 years in now, haven't needed to get in, but still have the option.
I use screws probably 10 to 1 over nails anymore.
3 or 4 years in now, haven't needed to get in, but still have the option.
I use screws probably 10 to 1 over nails anymore.
finn
Well-known member
I surface mounted the electrical, air, and water.
It’s a shop, not my living room or a medical research laboratory.
It’s a shop, not my living room or a medical research laboratory.
SkeeterZX200
Well-known member
I used GRK cabinet screws to hold my 1/2" OSB up. All my electrical and air is run in the wall.
I have finished drywall in my garage, surface mounted the air lines but ran the electric in the walls/ceiling. However I have outlets every 4 feet (dual duplex on different circuits) so
the only possible change to it would be 220 outlets, I only have one 220 outlet on each of 3 walls. If needed I can run the 220 thru the attic, cost a bit in wire but have easier access.
the only possible change to it would be 220 outlets, I only have one 220 outlet on each of 3 walls. If needed I can run the 220 thru the attic, cost a bit in wire but have easier access.
Most of mine is up with nails because I have a framing nailer. One wall in the house is up with screws so I can access the dryer duct, fuel oil fill pipe and basically a chase area.
Milton Shaw
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IF the walls are between the house and the shop, you probably have to use drywall as a fire barrier, seams taped etc. Other walls would be OK for OSB but you didn't specify if the shop was attached to the house. I would at least make panels to access electrical panels and any plumbing that are in the walls. Hind sight is always 2020 so plan for access latter as things will come up.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
No, and I suspect most people haven't.
Why yes I have and started a thread about it, https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113009
I also have my electrical panel in the middle of the shop and have the panels above and below it screwed on so that future mods/additions are easier. If you look close in the above thread you can see the back of the panel. I also screwed on a ceiling panel that allows me to get wires out sideways if necessary.
lg
no neat sig line
I also have my electrical panel in the middle of the shop and have the panels above and below it screwed on so that future mods/additions are easier. If you look close in the above thread you can see the back of the panel. I also screwed on a ceiling panel that allows me to get wires out sideways if necessary.
lg
no neat sig line
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
Yes because previous owner did a terrible job insulating the shop. also the walls were not framed which was not ideal for my purpose.
if you get it all done right the first time, there's not a lot of reason to open the walls.
if you get it all done right the first time, there's not a lot of reason to open the walls.
Old Radar
Well-known member
Walls?
How about walls, ceiling and roof.
Use screws. It's a no-brainer.
How about walls, ceiling and roof.
Use screws. It's a no-brainer.
Kaizen
Well-known member
I used screws on 5/8 ply so I can hang a ton on any wall and not worry about it coming down.
Only thing in my walls is insulation. Can’t imagine ever being in there
If you want a smooth look countersink or use grk type heads. I used deckmate and you can see every one
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Only thing in my walls is insulation. Can’t imagine ever being in there
If you want a smooth look countersink or use grk type heads. I used deckmate and you can see every one
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Appreciate the input thus far. Feel free to chime in with anything else.
I guess I need to add some details to maybe constrain the discussion a bit.
It's a detached pole barn style shop, studded "16 on center" between the poles, all basically new construction.
I've got electrical and insulation in the walls, but no plans for any gas or water plumbing.
I may install a mini split in the future, but will have my electrical setup for that before closing the walls up.
I'd likely be hanging the sheets by myself, up to 12 ft off the ground (ladders and scaffolding)
I have a framing nailer that would make hanging sheets by myself much faster/easier than screwing
So, I suppose I might screw the sheets right around the breaker box, and perhaps near the workbench, to give me some flexibility where I'd need it most but I'm currently leaning towards nailing the majority of the sheets in most places. It doesn't seem like I'd really need to be inside the walls for the most part.
I guess I need to add some details to maybe constrain the discussion a bit.
It's a detached pole barn style shop, studded "16 on center" between the poles, all basically new construction.
I've got electrical and insulation in the walls, but no plans for any gas or water plumbing.
I may install a mini split in the future, but will have my electrical setup for that before closing the walls up.
I'd likely be hanging the sheets by myself, up to 12 ft off the ground (ladders and scaffolding)
I have a framing nailer that would make hanging sheets by myself much faster/easier than screwing
So, I suppose I might screw the sheets right around the breaker box, and perhaps near the workbench, to give me some flexibility where I'd need it most but I'm currently leaning towards nailing the majority of the sheets in most places. It doesn't seem like I'd really need to be inside the walls for the most part.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
There are certain walls that seem to get taken apart a lot, and some never. Screws have sure caught on over the last 50 years or so. the truth is, if you nail up walls now you're sort of an old-timey weirdo.
I did field service work in San Diego at a medical research building and every other floor was empty except for the pipes, cables, ducts and stuff needed for the floor above or below. Made it real easy to add new machines or re-arrange the work areas.
Kevin
It is because it is a shop that I used plywood on my walls. In the 5 yrs the shop has been up I have only been in a section twice for things I overlooked. I expect to be going back into the wall again for a wiring mod I'm planning. I used the GRK tori screws, but the pan heads would be best.
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