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wsommariva

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Joined
Oct 10, 2012
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27
Original was held on by two screws. They broke off so I can't unscrew them. The other side was held on by one screw.

So, I thought I'd tap one hole ans screw it on.
 

Outlawmws

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Get a set of the tapered wedge style EZouts and get the screw remnants out. You can start using penetrating oil on it now while you chase the easy out.
 

autopts

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Jul 4, 2009
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2,268
Original was held on by two screws. They broke off so I can't unscrew them. The other side was held on by one screw.

So, I thought I'd tap one hole ans screw it on.

Your not near Chicago are you? I've gotton broken jaw screws down to a science.
 

Outlawmws

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I'm in N.J.

To countersink in my steel brace I guess I need a HSS countersink set?

Yes, but you won't need a set, just a countersink. It's not like drills size is determined by how deep you go, given a particular counter sink angle. just stay with a std angle.
 

wsommariva

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Oct 10, 2012
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Well, went to Lowe's. Good news is that the screw remover worked great.

Bad news is the flat head screws I bought are too small. I got 1/4" since that's what the old one measured, I thought. I now measured the inside threads with
a caliper and get 17/64". So what size screw do I need to buy?

And that 3/8" bolt measured at inside threads for the locking lever? My 3/8" nut is too small. What am I doing wrong with my measurements?
 

Outlawmws

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Well, went to Lowe's. Good news is that the screw remover worked great.

Bad news is the flat head screws I bought are too small. I got 1/4" since that's what the old one measured, I thought. I now measured the inside threads with
a caliper and get 17/64". So what size screw do I need to buy?

And that 3/8" bolt measured at inside threads for the locking lever? My 3/8" nut is too small. What am I doing wrong with my measurements?

Threads are measured to the Major Diameter (outside diameter) of the thread on bolt, (not the ID of the nut), and not the Root Diameter. (Bottom of the thread on a bolt)

Take the remnants of the screws with you to match the size and the thread (there are commonly coarse and fine threads for each size) I'd expect yours to be coarse, but YMMV
 

wsommariva

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Oct 10, 2012
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Ok took them to Lowe's and got a 7/16 nut that seems to fit the big bolt.

The screw to hold the jaw measures 5/16 - 18 a size they don't have. So I'll look on line for them.. ... if I can't find them I will have to tap a hole I guess?
 

wsommariva

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Oct 10, 2012
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Update, I ordered the screws and the coupling nut. Should arrive in a few days and I can get the project completed. I'll send a pic once done.

Thanks to everyone, very much. Vice means allot to me.
 

wsommariva

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Oct 10, 2012
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I got my screws today. My steel is 3/16" thick. The tapered angle on the screw is also about 3/16". I guess I need thicker steel. Think I can maybe put two 3/16" pieces together and screw through both?
 

wsommariva

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Oct 10, 2012
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Update. Found a site where I can get 4" of steel. If my screw has a 3/16" taper how thick a piece of steel should I get.

And hot or cold rolled?

Thanks

I ask allot of questions, I get the right outcome.
 

Outlawmws

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I got my screws today. My steel is 3/16" thick. The tapered angle on the screw is also about 3/16". I guess I need thicker steel. Think I can maybe put two 3/16" pieces together and screw through both?

Just countersink a bit into the threaded vise jaw to clear the countersink.

Update. Found a site where I can get 4" of steel. If my screw has a 3/16" taper how thick a piece of steel should I get.

And hot or cold rolled?

Thanks

I ask allot of questions, I get the right outcome.

If you go with new thicker steel, measure the depth of the head and round up.
 

Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
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Near Salem, OR
I had broken jaw screws on my Columbian 3050. The replacement screws I found at the hardware store were taller in the head than the old ones. I shortened the height of the heads on a lathe. You can do the same with a file. It reduced the engagement of the phillips bit in the screw head, but still left enough to tighten the screw properly. If you use loctite on the screw threads, they will be less likely to loosen, even if not real tight.
 

flashkl

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Jul 23, 2012
Messages
24
Hey guys, I have an old Parker vise that I'd like to know more about. 3.75" jaws open 6" wide, fixed 3 hole base, no anvil on the backside, and the casting says "C. Parker Co. Meriden Ct" on one side, and "No. 1X" on the other. It looks a lot like the one on the bottom left here (the Vulcan stationary) but none of the no's on that catalog page have an X in them. Anybody know anything about what I have and when it's from?
 

wsommariva

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Oct 10, 2012
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Thanks Outlawmws and Provincial. I'll work with what I have, use your suggestions and see if it works. This weekend.
 

EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Location
Bentonville, AR
Hey guys, I have an old Parker vise that I'd like to know more about. 3.75" jaws open 6" wide, fixed 3 hole base, no anvil on the backside, and the casting says "C. Parker Co. Meriden Ct" on one side, and "No. 1X" on the other. It looks a lot like the one on the bottom left here (the Vulcan stationary) but none of the no's on that catalog page have an X in them. Anybody know anything about what I have and when it's from?

Here is an ad from 1901 with the "X" series....
 

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flashkl

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Jul 23, 2012
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Sweet! Thanks for that. Do you have any idea if the C. Parker and Meriden, Ct casting (as opposed to Chas and Conn) are earlier or later?
 

Nitpicker

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Jul 28, 2012
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South western Pennsylvania
I've been researching heavy duty "old" American bench vises and I hardly ever see information relating to the diameter of the screw, It seems to me that the larger the jaw the larger the diameter of the screw ought to be. Also the thickness of the base plate. So if I really want to honk down on a HD vise what is the essential data I need to make an intellegent decision?
 
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EOC_Jason

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I've been researching heavy duty "old" American bench vises and I hardly ever see information relating to the diameter of the screw, It seems to me that the larger the jaw the larger the diameter of the screw ought to be. Also the thickness of the base plate. So if I really want to honk down on a HD vise what is the essential data I need to make an intellegent decision?

lol... but if you *really* want to make it more complicated, not just the diameter of the screw but what is it made from? Iron? Steel? Rolled? Forged? Milled/Turned? In general though, yes the screw does get larger & longer the bigger the vise. The handles also get larger / longer too...

Usually sellers will include a pic from the underside showing the screw so you can kind of tell how big it is. Also if you can see a pic of the main screw NUT that is helpful too... Some are beefier than others. It doesn't make sense to me to have a huge vise, then the main nut just has a thin casting that holds it in place. Scale is always deceiving in pictures though. The *easiest* way to tell how beefy a vise is: WEIGHT! I also like to pay attention to how LONG the handle is.

If you have a pair of vises with 5" wide jaws... One weighs 35 lbs, the other weighs 105 lbs... which do you think is the better vise?

If a vise has been around for 80-100 years and survived with all the dents and dings you see on them, I'm pretty sure they will be able to outlast you as well, as long as you don't put a 4' cheater on them.

If you want a nice garage vise for holding stuff... a good quality 4" is perfect... not too big, not too small... If you want a "beater" that can take all the abuse then I would say get a 5" or larger. You really start to see the old vises put on weight in the 5" and up category...

Though don't think smaller can't take abuse either. I was trying to un-do some stuck thread on a pipe that I had held in my 4-1/2" Ridgid vise. I was using like a 3' pipe wrench on it and all my 250 lbs+ was being held up in the air... The threads wouldn't budge, the vise didn't break... I gave up because I was out of steam... lol.
 
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Catalyze

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Feb 7, 2011
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1,369
Location
New Mexico
I agree with Jason when it comes to Weight is King. A Columbian vise and a Reed vise of the same size (machinist variety) are not of the same weight. Columbians are much lighter for a given jaw size. That isn't to say that a Columbian isn't a good vise, I have a 5 1/2" Columbian that was terribly abused and still lives on but I think a Reed would have fared better.

You mention the lead screw threads. Look at an Athol vise which has buttress type of threads. They are stronger than a normal Acme thread so you might consider an Athol if you want to go with a strong thread vise.
Craig
 

wsommariva

Active member
Joined
Oct 10, 2012
Messages
27
All done with the retrofit I guess you call it. Not original, not pretty, but it will work great!!!!! Thanks again for the knowledge shared. I learned a few things. Here is a picture, I hope.....

2012-10-27_17-49-17_766(1).jpg
 

canadian

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
5
Here is an ad from 1901 with the "X" series....

wow I have something almost exact to the middle one in this pic. however it says the biggest jaws available are only 6 1/4 inches. the vise i own has jaws that are 7". any ideas on the make and model on the one that I have, im having trouble finding info on this vise.
 

kazlx

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Oct 30, 2012
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Location
Tustin, CA
New vise. Best part...free from a co-worker. Gave it a little love. Athol 614. Love it...so smooth.

A3DAC38F-0736-4947-A3FA-62D08C8C37AA-17470-00001432D13028F0.jpg
 

cirrusaero

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
6
Anyone ever hear of a Maxitt bench vise? I just picked it up from a garage sale for $15. Lady was selling off all her estranged uncles stuff. I bought a ton of really good misc tools you'd all be so proud.

5" Swivel, Jaw Width is 5"; 3 bolt base, weighs close to 50 pounds Other than cast "maxitt" on the static side and "5" on the dynamic jaw side there isn't any other stamp.

Took it apart and cleaned it up, greased the spline gear. good action.
 

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Arne73

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Mar 20, 2010
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1,477
Here' a couple we have at work:

German made Rigid:
vicerigid.jpg



Jorgenson COO unknown.
vicejorgenson1.jpg


I've always associated Jorgenson with clamps, never saw one of their vices before.
 

Adam McLaughlin

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Oct 13, 2008
Messages
1,843
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Stupid Question, but...

Do Rock Island Vises only have the one way to attach vise jaws? Always a screw through the face of the jaw?

I can post a snapshot of the unit in question

Adam
 

Catalyze

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Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
Adam - I have a very old Rock Island and it has the hot cast in jaw faces that are not replaceable.
Craig
 

Mohawk Dave

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Oct 7, 2012
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5,068
Location
SoCal
Can anybody identify this vise? I've searched google high and low and can't come up with anything.


Reply to old post, and I do believe Monte found it...did you notice it says FORGED STEEL. Pretty cool. Anyway, I found the article with it. Appears to be a Japanese workshop that restores/builds Cowboy guns/firearms. This link should work and translate it to English. http://translate.google.com/transla...a=X&ei=im3hUJvrFKWVjAKY_YHgBA&ved=0CDMQ7gEwAA

Edit: looks like it is about $226. http://www.autoattrezzature.it/art/MORSIFICIO ITALIANO SNC/MORSE e INCUDINI/A70120/
 

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Boilerdogg

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Nov 7, 2007
Messages
8
Location
N.E. Oklahoma
Thought I'd revive this thread with this old survivor:

vise1_zpsbc491e99.jpgvise2_zps8d8162fd.jpg

It has 58 stamped on the pad cast into side.
It will get some tlc before mounting to the bench.
 
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Ottomatic

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Mar 26, 2013
Messages
1

Hello. First post to the site. I love this thread. Came across it while searching for info on welding a broken vice. I was given a
Lewis #53 vice. Someone made an attempt to repair it and failed. I am going to give it a whirl
Can't seem to find any info on this particular vice. I will post pics tomorrow if that will help
Thanks for a great thread
 

Builderrhys

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Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
69
Location
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
A quick shot of my baby vises. Yes I have a vise issue. I know they are not located properly to the edge with the fixed jaw they are more for display (I don't want my wife to scratch the car on her way into the garage so everything must be tucked in tight). They are a Record No 0, No 1, No 2 and No 3. Regards, Rhys.

IMGP4024_zps56d2ca4d.jpg


IMGP4023_zpsf45fd55e.jpg


IMGP4022_zps4dbf699c.jpg
 

Wangstang

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Joined
May 25, 2006
Messages
405
Location
Triangle Area, NC, USA
Can any one provide some thoughts on the pictured vice that has the number 6 and JAPAN cast into it:
attachment.php


The seller is asking $145 for it, which seems way high on the price to me, but I want to make sure I'm not overlooking an good deal.

Thanks
Wes
 

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fullthrottle24

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Oct 22, 2010
Messages
367
Location
Ohio
It's no deal, you can find better vise made in USA for $75-100.
Japan vises seem to be better then Chinese ones though.
 
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