Everything you need to know about bench vises...
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
autopts71045
Banned
There's no question the C series is more for the industrial market. Pictured are a tradesman 1755, 5 1/2" jaws and a C-2 with 5" jaws. Besides the jaws being bigger, notice the bigger jaw surface area behind the jaws and also of coarse the pipe jaws fit the rugged look of the C series vise. Resale on a used C- series is comparatively low when matched to a used Ttradesman. I've sold a number of C Wiltons often getting less then what I get for a Tradesman. If your not looking for a 6 1/2 or 8" Wilton. The C series is the way to go. C Series on Ebay don't usualy fetch much.
autopts71045
Banned
Also, one big difference between the C- series and the Tradesman is the size of the jaw towers. Notice how the ends of the Tradesman extend out not giving the jaw as much support as the C-2. The C-2 jaw support is massive. The C-1 or C-2 is the way to go if your looking 6" or less width.
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autopts71045
Banned
factoid! There is more jaw surface on the C-1 then on the C-2.
C-1 Posted! 4 1/2"W X 1 1/4" H jaws.
taylorguitar
Well-known member
It is truly amazing what the trained eye can see vs. the untrained eye. I didn't see the jaw "beefyness" of the C series until you guys mentioned it. Now it jumps out into my face. Good info...much appreciated...but the Tradesman is so much more aesthetic...curvy lines...you know...why own something useful and quality with less *** appeal when you can have *** appeal?
taylorguitar
Well-known member
question of value and quality...has anyone on this forum ever actually needed the more massive jaw surface of a C series(as mentioned in the few recent posts) or is it just the idea of having more?
autopts71045
Banned
Given an equal price and condition, its the C-Series, hands down. I've seen the jaw ends completely gone when accidently hit with a 20oz hammer on the smaller 1700 Series.
autopts71045
Banned
Thats a good point. Here's some more C-1 pipe jaw trivia. Listen up you guys with C-1's wanting pipe jaws! Wilton, (to my knowledge) made 3 different style jaws on their C-1 from the early 60's until today. The early C-1 jaw was held in by 2 dowel pins. That replacement # has long been discontinued. The second, held in with set screws, and today's pipe jaws, held in with a clip. THEY ARE ALL THE SAME JAW!. Today's jaw has a removable clip, and if you align it up on an older C-1, mark where the dowel pins are and drill 2, 7/16" holes and there you have it. In one photo, one jaw is on top of the other. I guess I Have to clean the lense.
By the way, I have new pipe jaws for a C-2, if interested, $75 and I don't think you will find them cheaper.
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autopts71045
Banned
What can I say.. I have no life!!
taylorguitar
Well-known member
Need some advice...I am going to use the maple bowling alley butcher block as a workbench. I intend to mount a vise to the end corner. Do you guys think I need a back plate on the underside of the workbench to provide additional strength and avoid separation of boards?
old salvage
Well-known member
How thick is the wood and how big is the vise ?
autopts71045
Banned
Right on, its a great idea if you have a decent size jaw grabber!!
taylorguitar
Well-known member
first time posting a photo so hope this worked. maple top is 2.5 inches thick.
taylorguitar
Well-known member
Either gonna use a Wilton C2 or 1765 and plan to have the bench top over hanging the size of the vise base
ZRX61
Well-known member
Damn, wouldn't mind a 3x10ft section of bowling alley....
old salvage
Well-known member
Thats nice n thick. I'd just drill through and use bolts n washers. Wouldnt bother with backing plate.
taylorguitar
Well-known member
you guys should look around for old bowling alleys. my brother and I got tons of it...mostly used for interior stairs, workbenches, etc. by now. i have another section that is even thicker but it's so narrow (17 inches) so it's not much use unless i cut in half and put together for double width. any opinions on 34" inch wide workbench. seems like too wide to me..../???
autopts71045
Banned
Pollard Bros, whose been making industrial mapletop work benches for 75 years still sells a 6ft X 36" maple top bench. Bigger ones arn't unusual in plants and big shops. Should you have the room and build one, keep in mind what you might want to store underneath, like a compressor and such.
BanjoSavesTheDay
Well-known member
Someone appreciated our work... Check this ad out:
This is a 4" Athol machinist's vise. Athol was bought out by Starrett Co. in 1905, so this vise is over 100 years old and in excellent condition. The jaws are smooth, and the vise does not swivel. Vises made in the US of this type cost $300 +. The Chinese vises that are cast in someone's back yard now sell for $80 to $100. Check it out. I am asking $100 or best offer cash. Please reply to the craigslist address.
Q: What are the different types of bench vises?
A: There are four main types of bench vises. These are the machinist's vise, the mechanic's vise, the post vise, and the woodworkers vise.
The machinist's vise is considered the "cream of the crop". They are stoutly made and are finely machined. The jaws should match up perfectly, and they will be made of very high grade (60,000psi or greater) cast* iron. Note: The surface behind the back jaw is NOT an anvil or hammering surface!
*Technically, machinist's vises are almost always made of ductile iron, not cast iron. And yes, before some wag says "well they're cast in a mold, so it's cast iron," the phrase cast iron usually implies grey or white cast irons, which are brittle due to significant graphite content existing in the iron in flakes. Ductile iron's graphite is in a nodular shape which inhibits cracking. It's an important distinction in vises, because high quality vises are made from nodular or spheroidal (ductile) iron, and cheaply made economy vises (often imported) are made of grey cast iron.
The mechanic's vise is a vise designed to function as more than a mere vise. They usually have an integrated anvil area, and are made of lower grade iron.
http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/tls/1977400638.html
This is a 4" Athol machinist's vise. Athol was bought out by Starrett Co. in 1905, so this vise is over 100 years old and in excellent condition. The jaws are smooth, and the vise does not swivel. Vises made in the US of this type cost $300 +. The Chinese vises that are cast in someone's back yard now sell for $80 to $100. Check it out. I am asking $100 or best offer cash. Please reply to the craigslist address.
Q: What are the different types of bench vises?
A: There are four main types of bench vises. These are the machinist's vise, the mechanic's vise, the post vise, and the woodworkers vise.
The machinist's vise is considered the "cream of the crop". They are stoutly made and are finely machined. The jaws should match up perfectly, and they will be made of very high grade (60,000psi or greater) cast* iron. Note: The surface behind the back jaw is NOT an anvil or hammering surface!
*Technically, machinist's vises are almost always made of ductile iron, not cast iron. And yes, before some wag says "well they're cast in a mold, so it's cast iron," the phrase cast iron usually implies grey or white cast irons, which are brittle due to significant graphite content existing in the iron in flakes. Ductile iron's graphite is in a nodular shape which inhibits cracking. It's an important distinction in vises, because high quality vises are made from nodular or spheroidal (ductile) iron, and cheaply made economy vises (often imported) are made of grey cast iron.
The mechanic's vise is a vise designed to function as more than a mere vise. They usually have an integrated anvil area, and are made of lower grade iron.
http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/tls/1977400638.html
ZRX61
Well-known member
34-36in is fine .. Benches don't have to be against a wall yannno
My main bench is 28in.. but thats against a wall..
ZRX61
Well-known member
Do we have definitive proof that they started labeling them "Starret" in 1905? If thats the case then both mine are 105 years old.. or more...
BanjoSavesTheDay
Well-known member
No, I don't think that's true. I've tried to find out specific information for what happened and when, but was unsuccessful. Here's all I could find:
http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/LS-Starrett-Company-Company-History.html
http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/LS-Starrett-Company-Company-History.html
ZRX61
Well-known member
Just knocked up some aluminum jaws for a 6in Craftsman..... & yes, they still need countersinking etc.. & they may get some material milled off the top
ZRX61
Well-known member
That doesn't make any mention of the law suit & subsequent buy out of Athol by Starrett..
autopts71045
Banned
Re: Mounting Hardware
I'm confused about the stationary jack thing. Are you asking the pro-per way to mount a stationary vise? If so, its looks like you mounted it well.
For the mounting purposes of a stationary Jack, do you have any suggestions on the hardware to use?
I've got a nice Prentiss No.3 (which I cannot find any other references to through google) And I temporarily mounted it using deck screws and a series of washers...
But, I just refinished my workbench and I Want to mount it properly!
Thanks!
I'm confused about the stationary jack thing. Are you asking the pro-per way to mount a stationary vise? If so, its looks like you mounted it well.
old salvage
Well-known member
I've read two dates for the Athol Machine co buyout, 1905 and 1920. Looked through my bookmarks yesterday and couldn't find source.
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ZRX61
Well-known member
Re: Mounting Hardware
Apart from using deck screws instead of grade 5 or 8 nuts & bolts...
Apart from using deck screws instead of grade 5 or 8 nuts & bolts...
autopts71045
Banned
WILTON VISE ANVILS
Guys, if you own or acquired a Wilton bullet, try not to use the anvil. Wilton's anvil is not hardened and it actually part of the casting body. I've seen anvils beaten almost thru to the channel bar. Steel stock is all over. Find a piece and when needed, clamp it to your bench. If one doesn't care about keeping the anvil nice, I guess thats OK too. Just another item to know about Wilton brand bench vises.
Guys, if you own or acquired a Wilton bullet, try not to use the anvil. Wilton's anvil is not hardened and it actually part of the casting body. I've seen anvils beaten almost thru to the channel bar. Steel stock is all over. Find a piece and when needed, clamp it to your bench. If one doesn't care about keeping the anvil nice, I guess thats OK too. Just another item to know about Wilton brand bench vises.
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autopts71045
Banned
SERRATED VISE JAWS
Guys, the serratred jaws on your vise might be the most important part of that work piece. If your jaws are nice or very new, try to avoid putting certain pieces of metal in them like small steel rod, threaded bolts, small pipe etc. These photos show what, from the top, looks like nice jaws, well aligned, but when you see that jaws from the side, its obvious that its user cranked down threaded rod, bolts, and the like basically f*&%$g them up.
They are ways to avoid ruining your jaws, One, get a cheap, small pipe vise and mount it to a 2"X4". When you need to hold rod or small pipe, let your bench vise then hold your pipe vise and proceed. Also find some old leather, like one of your old belts, and cut off a few sections. Cradle a bolt with double leather on each side to protect the jaws. Those of you that have vises with forged jaws that are still nice, keep copper liners on permently. I hope these tips add something to "Everything you wanted to know about bench vises"
Guys, the serratred jaws on your vise might be the most important part of that work piece. If your jaws are nice or very new, try to avoid putting certain pieces of metal in them like small steel rod, threaded bolts, small pipe etc. These photos show what, from the top, looks like nice jaws, well aligned, but when you see that jaws from the side, its obvious that its user cranked down threaded rod, bolts, and the like basically f*&%$g them up.
They are ways to avoid ruining your jaws, One, get a cheap, small pipe vise and mount it to a 2"X4". When you need to hold rod or small pipe, let your bench vise then hold your pipe vise and proceed. Also find some old leather, like one of your old belts, and cut off a few sections. Cradle a bolt with double leather on each side to protect the jaws. Those of you that have vises with forged jaws that are still nice, keep copper liners on permently. I hope these tips add something to "Everything you wanted to know about bench vises"
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Autopts, I will add your info soon. Thanks for posting it!
I'm not sure I'm with you on preserving the jaws though. I don't encourage getting too stupid, but isn't the point of the replaceable jaw to be able to freshen the vise up at any time? I might be a bit biased though since I make inserts...
I'm not sure I'm with you on preserving the jaws though. I don't encourage getting too stupid, but isn't the point of the replaceable jaw to be able to freshen the vise up at any time? I might be a bit biased though since I make inserts...
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autopts71045
Banned
I guess everyone views vise maintenance different. With your shapper 3 ft away, you can make jaws but 95% of us can't. From those photos, basic common sence in what we put into the teeth of those jaws can extend the life. Say? Did you find a vise candidate yet?
BanjoSavesTheDay
Well-known member
Craigslister strikes again! It's so funny that someone is using this stuff. More power to them, but I'm dieing to know if it's somebody on here.
http://roseburg.craigslist.org/tls/2020970822.html
This is a Reed 204 R machinist's vise with milled smooth jaw faces. Jaws are 4" wide and the vise opens to 6". There is .006 total play in the jaws. The vise is in excellent condition. It also has a swivel base. I want $125 cash for it. please reply to the craigslist address.
FAQ:
Q: What are the different types of bench vises?
A: There are four main types of bench vises. These are the machinist's vise, the mechanic's vise, the post vise, and the woodworkers vise.
The machinist's vise is considered the "cream of the crop". They are stoutly made and are finely machined. The jaws should match up perfectly, and they will be made of very high grade (60,000psi or greater) cast* iron. Note: The surface behind the back jaw is NOT an anvil or hammering surface!
*Technically, machinist's vises are almost always made of ductile iron, not cast iron. And yes, before some wag says "well they're cast in a mold, so it's cast iron," the phrase cast iron usually implies grey or white cast irons, which are brittle due to significant graphite content existing in the iron in flakes. Ductile iron's graphite is in a nodular shape which inhibits cracking. It's an important distinction in vises, because high quality vises are made from nodular or spheroidal (ductile) iron, and cheaply made economy vises (often imported) are made of grey cast iron. - Thanks zrexxer
The mechanic's vise is a vise designed to function as more than a mere vise. They usually have an integrated anvil area, and are made of lower grade iron.
http://roseburg.craigslist.org/tls/2020970822.html
This is a Reed 204 R machinist's vise with milled smooth jaw faces. Jaws are 4" wide and the vise opens to 6". There is .006 total play in the jaws. The vise is in excellent condition. It also has a swivel base. I want $125 cash for it. please reply to the craigslist address.
FAQ:
Q: What are the different types of bench vises?
A: There are four main types of bench vises. These are the machinist's vise, the mechanic's vise, the post vise, and the woodworkers vise.
The machinist's vise is considered the "cream of the crop". They are stoutly made and are finely machined. The jaws should match up perfectly, and they will be made of very high grade (60,000psi or greater) cast* iron. Note: The surface behind the back jaw is NOT an anvil or hammering surface!
*Technically, machinist's vises are almost always made of ductile iron, not cast iron. And yes, before some wag says "well they're cast in a mold, so it's cast iron," the phrase cast iron usually implies grey or white cast irons, which are brittle due to significant graphite content existing in the iron in flakes. Ductile iron's graphite is in a nodular shape which inhibits cracking. It's an important distinction in vises, because high quality vises are made from nodular or spheroidal (ductile) iron, and cheaply made economy vises (often imported) are made of grey cast iron. - Thanks zrexxer
The mechanic's vise is a vise designed to function as more than a mere vise. They usually have an integrated anvil area, and are made of lower grade iron.
ZRX61
Well-known member
Paramo(?) in LA:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/gms/2027617915.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/gms/2027617915.html
old salvage
Well-known member
Maybe they are too lazy to acknowledge the source but
would it kill them to put it in quotes ?
Low class.
would it kill them to put it in quotes ?
Low class.
