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Evolution rage 2 clamp/base issues

asmasm

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Messages
39
Hello,
Does anyone else have one of the newer versions of the evo rage 2 chop saw where they moved to a stamped base and cheaper clamp mechanism?

I am having trouble setting cuts to square or 45 degrees and so far I have identified what I think are all the issues but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious before I start having a friend machine some bits to fix it up.

1) The two holes in the steel angle that pivot and set the angle of the clamp are oversized, the combined slop allows for several degrees of unpredictability depending on how the boles and bolts happen to line up any time it is tightened down.

2) The swing arm is not perfectly perpendicular to the base. I can't see to find any way to adjust this

3) The blade has a slight taper to it, setting 90 and 45 degree cuts using a speed square against the blade in the lowered position doesn't work.


My current strategy for setting the angle is to make small slices off of a 2x4, check angle, and then tap clamp with a rubber hammer until I zero in on where I need to be. This is a huge pain in the ***.


Assuming there isn't some easier method to dial in the cuts I am missing - I am going to have a friend turn down a larger stainless bolt into an m10 with tightly fit OD shoulder. Then also have him replace the bent steel angle with a piece of angel stock (sharp corner should help with clamping thin stock) where the arc cut into it is undersized so I can slowly grind back until the stops sit perfectly at 90 and 45 degrees. Like this:
 

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tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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Sounds about right for a stamped base. I had the beefier Rage 14" dry cut metal only version w/ cast iron base and still had issues with blade deflection and clamp slop at 45 degrees.

I learned to set my fence at say 45.5 or 46 degrees and just hope for the best. But this is true with most 14" dry cuts, to much blade.

Having the pivot of the motor/guard not perpendicular to base is a big issue and no real good way to solve.

Pics would help.
 
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A

asmasm

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Messages
39
I am going to have a friend machine a piece of .25" thick, 3" leg 403 angle stock to fit an off the shelf m10 shoulder bolt. I'm also going to have him machine the the 45 degree arc 2 degrees shy on each end so that I can incrementally adjust it with a die grinder until I get good 90 and 45 degree stops on the end.


If anyone else wants one of these, let me know and I will figure out what it will cost.
 

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tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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Oregon
Nice. You should consider machining 2 blocks. One like above, and one that slip over it to 45 degrees exactly. That way theres no adjusting, just drop the block in.

I think this would work, but wondering if it reduces cut width..... Ill go look at my dry cut.
 

TheEquineFencer

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Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9,277
Location
Farmville, NC 27828
I am going to have a friend machine a piece of .25" thick, 3" leg 403 angle stock to fit an off the shelf m10 shoulder bolt. I'm also going to have him machine the the 45 degree arc 2 degrees shy on each end so that I can incrementally adjust it with a die grinder until I get good 90 and 45 degree stops on the end.


If anyone else wants one of these, let me know and I will figure out what it will cost.

How did this turn out? Did you do it?
 
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