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Evolution Rage2 14" cold cut saw Home Depot

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srmofo

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Oct 15, 2009
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6,161
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SW ohio
I bought mine a year or 2 ago and I think it has a stamped base, I havent paid much attention to it so I cant be certain, but I know it hasnt caused me any issues.

If you are used to using an abrasive saw you wont care if it has a plastic base with lace on it. Its so much nicer
 

socoj2

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Jun 23, 2010
Messages
60
Ill sell mine for $175 if you around Georgia. I need something that is better at mitering. THis cut square end cuts great the fence blows goats for mitering.
 

Elginz

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Dec 29, 2014
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Oconto, WI
Is the Evoulution really that much better than an abrasive saw? I have the abrasive saw and have been looking at the Evoulution line for a while. I just can't seem to "pull the trigger". May be a few comments could push me over the edge. Thanks jb3426.
 

icecactus

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May 17, 2011
Messages
302
So, I bought the evolution sliding mitering saw first from amazon. It was defective in that the table was not flat. So you could never get a square cut. I returned it.

Then I bought one of these. Menards had them on sale for $189 shipped free at the time. And i figured this was a cast base and much simpler design so I shouldn't have the table levelness problem.

I ended up returning it. It's a POS.

Its really a shame too. The cast base was really nice, but the quality control was horrible. There was way to much slop in the pivot arm. So you would not get nice square cut since the arm could wiggle around. Infact I really didn't feel safe cutting with it.

I gave up on evolution. Bought a grizzly band saw instead.

Just a heads up for anyone thinking about buying one.
 

ishiboo

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Oct 27, 2010
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9,481
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Oshkosh, WI
I have it and it's great... No slop at all.

10x better than an abrasive saw.

I would consider the HF bandsaw that's on sale right now as well, it's not perfect but if you need a lot of cheap 90 cuts, it's hard to beat the value.
 

InkedForLife

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Jul 22, 2012
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PDXish
Ill sell mine for $175 if you around Georgia. I need something that is better at mitering. THis cut square end cuts great the fence blows goats for mitering.

What exactly are the problems with mitering using this saw?

I wish I could find a real cold saw at this price point.

Can you please explain what you mean by real cold saw?

Just trying to get as much info as possible before I make this purchase.

Thanks!
 

PeterT

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Jul 31, 2011
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Location
Toledo Ohio
I bought the same saw at Menards on sale, use it to cut rebar, cuts 4 or 5 half inch pieces at a time no problem, can't really speak for the accuracy but fence and clamp are not very sturdy, even cutting one rebar,,, but like i said accuracy isn't too important for what I use it for.
 

dv8customs

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Dec 29, 2007
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162
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East Texas
I have one with the cast base and I love it. Works great everytime and I have no problem mitering.

Untitled-2_zps0xkbscsi.jpg
 

chops101

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Jul 15, 2013
Messages
554
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I've been wanting a chop saw for years, but just have been making do with side grinders w/ abrasive discs. This looks impressive, or at least the video is impressive.
>>>

Evolution RAGE2 14 in. Multipurpose Chop Saw is capable of cutting steel, aluminum, wood with nails in and plastics with just one blade. When cutting steel, the RAGE2 cuts cold, no coolant is required. Because the material is cold it can be handled and worked on immediately. A combination of a hi-torque motor and gearbox, heavy duty construction and ultra high grade TCT blade enables the RAGE2 to cut materials which simply weren't possible before. A blade can cut up to 750 cuts in 2x2 mild steel box section before a replacement is required. Includes Evolution's 3 Year Warranty.
•Multipurpose; cuts steel, aluminum, wood and plastics using a single blade
•Saw includes a 2000-watt/15-amp motor
•1450 RPM no load
•Fast action swivel work clamp for cuts from 0-45-degree
•14 in. blade capacity and includes 14 in. rage2 multipurpose cutting blade with 36 teeth
•1 in. arbor
•Long blade life averages 750 cuts in 2 in mild steel box section
•Optional specialty blade available for masonry cutting
•Not designed for use with abrasive discs
•Home Depot Protection Plan:
 

ER70S-2

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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
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This is not a cold saw, it's a dry saw. Cold saws use coolant, very low RPMs, and are generally much more expensive.
 
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socoj2

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Jun 23, 2010
Messages
60
What exactly are the problems with mitering using this saw?



Can you please explain what you mean by real cold saw?

Just trying to get as much info as possible before I make this purchase.

Thanks!

First fence i got you could not get a 45 degree miter. it wasnt machined to allow it to go that far. They sent me a new fence same issue. its a ***** to adjust the fence if you are constantly changing angles. i want a nice clamping system and a moveable blade. why is that so difficult?
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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Location
visalia ca
Is the Evoulution really that much better than an abrasive saw? I have the abrasive saw and have been looking at the Evoulution line for a while. I just can't seem to "pull the trigger". May be a few comments could push me over the edge. Thanks jb3426.

The cold cut/dry cut/ non-abrasive say is so much better. I never really though it would be that much if a difference and then I had a chance to buy one used for $100 ( different brand, cast base, about $500 saw new) and I never wanted to go back once I used it.
For thin stuff the abrasive saw goes through it fine but the shocker the material gets it starts ro really slow the saw down, heat up the material and then you get the cur wandering a bit.
The Non-abrasive saw cuts the thicker tubing much faster and much more accurate. I have wondered how it would do on say a solid 3" piece of round or square stock but have not had the chance to try it. I still have my metal cutoff bandsaw for solid stock if I needed it

Bob
 

kxlexus

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Jul 1, 2014
Messages
260
I went ahead and ordered one. An abrasive chop saw is almost as much money.
the reviews are all over the map on this saw. Guess I felt like taking a chance
 

Elginz

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Dec 29, 2014
Messages
431
Location
Oconto, WI
I was thinking last night, ya, ya, I was thinking, it happens once in a while.
Any way, take a 4 x 4 block and cut a wedge at say 22.5 and one at 30, and 45. Drill a hole to line up in a good spot on the fence, counter sunk on the side away from the fence, with a "T" nut in it, and drill the fence, bolt it to the fence. You would have accurate angles and not have to move the fence. One bolt to change the angle.
 

Ign

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Jul 7, 2006
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Butte Peak ND
This is not a cold saw, it's a dry saw. Cold saws use coolant, very low RPMs, and are generally much more expensive.

This. These dry cuts are NOT cold cut saws, not even close. A cold cut is truly a precision fabrication saw, pivoting body like a miter saw, uses coolant, spins as slow as 40rpm, often has clamps on both sides of the blade, and can have auto vises that close as you pull the head down. Generally a cold-cut is not carbide tipped but is more like a circular band saw blade. You can almost always identify a cold cut from the long lever handle allowing the operator to really pull the blade into the work.
 

kunkernator

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Sep 27, 2012
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US of A
I am planning on ordering up this saw, need it mostly for metal work, but also planning on using it for some woodwork.

Does anyone know if it comes with a blade? I do see they are rather expensive.
 

ybnormal70

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Jan 8, 2010
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931
Location
Conway, SC
From the description:

14 in. blade capacity and includes 14 in. rage2 multipurpose cutting blade with 36 teeth

Kevin
 
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kxlexus

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Jul 1, 2014
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Mine was delivered Thursday. It has a blade. I haven't used the saw yet
 

davewo

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Oct 12, 2011
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USA
I have the older Rage 2 with the cast base. I'm sure I've made over 1000 cuts so far. The angle markings on the clamp are ridiculous; I drilled holes to mark the 0 and 45 degree miters and can place a pin in them for positive stops (although I usually just eyeball it). Other than that it leaves a cut ready to be welded. They are advertised as creating no heat or sparks. This is true when the blade is new, but the heat and sparks increase as the blade gets used. It's still nowhere near as bad as an abrasive saw. The finish of the cut is not as smooth. It leaves minor chatter marks, but these are easily dealt with by a sanding wheel if appearance is critical. Another minus is toasting the blade on hardened material. I once grabbed a peice of hardened drill rod (I did not know it was prehardened) I've had kicking around for maybe 10 years and tried to cut it on Rage. I was squeezing the life out of that particular blade, but one cut in that hardened material killed it. The greatest bennifit of a dry saw is that it is a clean cutting process. You can cut material in an enclosed garage for hours on end and not have respiratory issues or any metal dust to clean up at all.
 

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kunkernator

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I ended up ordering one last night, I will see how it works out. Planning on using it on some wood to build a new workbench, straight cuts only (as I do not have a miter saw). Also for a lot of metalwork.
 

kunkernator

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Report back on how well it cuts wood, the RPMs will be a lot lower than a typical wood saw.

I will. From what i was looking in to before purchasing, it seems like the lower RPMs cause less splintering and a smoother cut (although you have to cut slower as well). I think it should perform well.
 

Hardline4

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Feb 27, 2012
Messages
46
I traded my Wellsaw a few weeks ago for a Pro Tools Bender and die. I need something other than my portaband, I've ordered of these and will post back with my thoughts once I run it through a little.
 

Hardline4

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Feb 27, 2012
Messages
46
Well after using this for a handrail job I'll keep it short and sweet. Save your money. I am shipping my back. I'll save up and be purchasing a grizzley bandsaw more than likely.
 

ishiboo

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Oct 27, 2010
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Oshkosh, WI
Well after using this for a handrail job I'll keep it short and sweet. Save your money. I am shipping my back. I'll save up and be purchasing a grizzley bandsaw more than likely.

What was wrong with it?

I have two Rage's (one Rage2) and have been very pleased. Have done a lot more than a single job on it too.
 

chops101

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Jul 15, 2013
Messages
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S. FL
The positive reviews far exceed the negative.
I ordered one today as I have been wanting something besides using a sidegrinder with cut-off discs, which have served me well.

Is it a $2500 cold saw? Of course not.
Will it cut as well as a $2500 cold saw? Of course not.

I think this may be where the expectations get crushed.
 

icecactus

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May 17, 2011
Messages
302
The positive reviews far exceed the negative.
I ordered one today as I have been wanting something besides using a sidegrinder with cut-off discs, which have served me well.

Is it a $2500 cold saw? Of course not.
Will it cut as well as a $2500 cold saw? Of course not.

I think this may be where the expectations get crushed.

It cuts just fine. Its the fact that on the rage miter saw, the table was off by 3/16" so you can't get a square cut. There was no way to fix it.

The 2nd, one, the 14" chop, the pivot arm had slop in it, enough that when cutting I was afraid it would bind the blade, and again you couldn;t get a square cut.

The thing actually cuts good. Its the quality control that makes it a POS.
 

tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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5,760
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Oregon
I had the Rage III? (now called the Evosaw380) which was a 15", 1450rpm, dry cut saw. Very similar to the RageII. Seems the RageII has a different handle (not as nice), a different blade, and that looks about it.

Anyways, it was a fantastic saw. I made thousands of cuts, with multiple brands of blades, and have to say it performed well.

There is some QC lacking, and the OE blade was not the best.

But compared to the others I have owned- Milwaukee, Hitachi, and Dewalt, it performed as good if not better.

Not sure about the "multi material" cutting capacity, buy a dedicated saw for wood and metal, period.
 

tarbellb

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And there is a learning curve to cutting with one.

IT WILL NOT CUT LIKE A WOOD MITER SAW.

There are far to many forces on the blade to act the same as a good miter saw going through soft wood.

In the end though I was cutting within 1/64" of a miter angle and building projects that require high tolerances. Easily as accurate as a good bandsaw.
 

Hardline4

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Feb 27, 2012
Messages
46
Issues I had were the degree marks were way off, really not a big deal to me I can make my own. The worst part is clamping. It will clamp whatever your cutting well enough, but as you tighten the piece the whole clamping system will rotate. Espically if you are going for miters. I bought this specifically for miter as it is much easier (or so I thought) than with a portaband. It didn't matter how much you tighten the allen screws, if you are doing a 45, it is going to move. The only real solution is to drill holes in the stamped sheetmetal base. This would work for awhile, but I could see the holes wearing larger. The saw, cut great. It was the overall performance of the product that I had issue with.

If you aren't doing a lot of fab, this might be an ok purchase for you. I could not see it being anyone's go to for cutting though. Unless you are only cutting things occasionally, or quality isn't really a big deal. Or if you only need straight cut, no miters.

I'll be saving my bones and purchasing a mitering swivel head bandsaw, probably from Grizzly. It should be apporopriate for what I need.

In regard to the $2500 cold saw comment, I can assure you I had at best average expectations for this saw. The overall quality is poor. I do understand it's a $300 saw ($200 for me on sale). But I wouldn't pay $50 for this. It really is a straight up only machine, and even to get that you have to spend time dialing it in and finding a way to keep the clamping system from moving.
 

tarbellb

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After looking at the Evolution website, it seems the RageIII (Evosaw380) has a much beefier cast aluminum base vs the (very flimsy looking) stamped base of the RageII.

Hardline has a excellent point about fence deflection. I absolutely wouldnt use one of these saws if you couldnt repeatedly cut with accuracy.

Maybe worth looking into the Evosaw 380 also called the Steelsaw2?
 

dv8customs

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Dec 29, 2007
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East Texas
Sounds like the flimsy base is the cause of a lot of the issues. I don't have any of these problems with the heavy cast base on mine.
 

Hardline4

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Feb 27, 2012
Messages
46
Sounds like the flimsy base is the cause of a lot of the issues. I don't have any of these problems with the heavy cast base on mine.

I do think a cast base would like a world of difference. Do you have problems with the clamping system moving on miters?
 
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