Evolution Rage2 Dry Chop Saw

[9GUY9]

I figured there might be a few like myself interested in a dry chop saw. I just bought the Evolution Rage2 saw and couldn't be happier. I am in the middle of a project that requires cutting a lot of steel studs, and after fighting to cut a few with a tin snips I had enough. A bit of reading here and I decided a dry chop saw was the answer. The fact that Menards currently has the rage2 on sale for $199 sealed the deal.

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...14-multipurpose-chop-saw/p-1785703-c-9082.htm

THis saw is great, it cuts about as quick as a regular chop saw, but doesn't make nearly the mess. It leaves a decently clean edge on the metal. I have tried it on steel and copper pipe, heavy angle iron, and 20gauge steel studs. The saw has a heavy cast base and solid construction. I hooked my little shop vac up to the included port. The vac helps, but theres still a bit of metal shavings thrown around. The one place they could improve the saw would be a way to better funnel the metal chips towards the removable tray and vac port. That said the little bit of metal shavings thrown around is a lot easier to clean than the abrasive dust a regular chop saw creates.

THe saw

The blade after several cuts.

Finished cut on a piece of angle iron.

 

[RV77]

How is the cut compared to a bandsaw ? I need to get some kind of chop saw. Is it spark less as advertised ? Whats the COO ?

Thanks

 

[shoot summ]

I've had one of these for over a year, here are my observations.

1) I really like the saw, nice cuts.
2) The chips get everywhere, I generally cut outside, with a shield and a cap on, the chips embed in your shoes and come inside making the wife very unhappy.
3) Make SURE(double sure) that the item to be cut is clamped well, if not it will become a weapon of mass destruction, starting with the blade.
4) Nice and easy lowering the blade into the work piece and all the way through. Treating this like a "chop saw" will result in #3...

 

[toolchaser]

I would be careful using a shop vac to catch chips coming off the saw. They turn purple for a reason, almost all the heat from the cut goes into the chip, a melted hose or a canister fire would not be fun

 

[jonzer12]

Had the rage 3 for 5-6 years and the 2 for a short time. Buy the steel blades are they are far more economical compared to the cut everything blades. They usually go on sale for 1/2 price on the web 2-3 times a year.

Couldn't be happier with the saws. My little rage 3 has seen an a LOT of use and is still going strong. I was weary about buying these in the first place but these are not cheaply made.

 

[aka Larry]

I borrowed a friend's for a tubing project and I have wanted one ever since. Too bad we don't have Menards here in NC because that's a damn good price.

 

[cwlo]

I picked one up at Lowes for a little over a hundred a while back. I've been real happy with it, but the back fence will not go perpendicular to the blade without removing the set screw/arm, as it gets in the way from the fence going the full 90 degrees. Anyone else have this problem? Otherwise, it is pretty robust, especially for the price.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[buening]

I bought one a few weeks ago when it was $175 at Menards. BTW starting yesterday they have the 11% rebate storewide, so you could get a better deal.

I'm pretty happy with it so far. The set screw/orange arm is a bit of a bad design. The arm is long enough that it hits the frame at the back of the saw, so you can't get much rotation on the arm. Beats the **** out of the abrasive chop saw that I have. Chip containment is an issue that I'm going to figure out a way to deal with. I might build a sheet metal fence behind it, but it won't help on the sides and the front.

 

[bobcatdan]

Needed a new chop saw for cutting hydraulic hose and work and I talked them into one. I'm happy with it althou I thought it would make a little smooth cut in hose then it does.

 

[RegalX]

Good choice... I am glad you didn't buy that cheapo band saw... how loud is it?

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Just wondering...why can you not put 1 of these blades on a regular chop saw? Rpms?

EDIT: the Evo spins at 1450 rpm, and a Ridgid 14" Chop Saw spins at 3900 rpm. So there my answer is. Is there any way to slow down the Ridgid?-like a variable speed knob one could wire in?

 

[jonzer12]

Just wondering...why can you not put 1 of these blades on a regular chop saw? Rpms?

EDIT: the Evo spins at 1450 rpm, and a Ridgid 14" Chop Saw spins at 3900 rpm. So there my answer is. Is there any way to slow down the Ridgid?-like a variable speed knob one could wire in?

Rage makes their arbor in an odd size so this doesn't work. Oschelon started making replacement blades but that is the only alternative I know to buying Rage branded blades.

 

[alan camby]

I picked one up at Lowes for a little over a hundred a while back. I've been real happy with it, but the back fence will not go perpendicular to the blade without removing the set screw/arm, as it gets in the way from the fence going the full 90 degrees. Anyone else have this problem? Otherwise, it is pretty robust, especially for the price.

Thanks,

Chris

There has been several people who have talked about the fence stopping before 90degrees. mine did the same thing. I just removed the cast rear fence/clamp and used a die grinder to extend the slot under the adjuster bolt.
Mine will do 90 degrees fine now.

I have been using the saw like mad over the last 6 months. I am very impressed with the blade design compared to a abrasive saw. Still on the factory blade.

As another poster mentioned. Make sure the part is clamped well before sawing. Be very very careful with angle iron. It is very easy for angle to pivot and lose grip with the clamp. Most of the time i position the angle pointing up like this " ^ ". If I have to make a angled miter cut i have started using a larger piece of square tubing in the vise on top of the angle ( ie. use 2" square on top of 1-1/2" angle).

 

[alan camby]

Forgot to mention. Was a little worried that the blade would not cut thick steel. I cut a piece of 1"x2-1/2" flat bar the other day, cut just fine. I cut 2x2x1/4" square all the time with no problem.

I really like how i can trim 1/4" or so off of the side of a piece of metal. If you try that with an abrasive saw, the blade will walk to the edge of the piece.

I am very happy with the saw and consider it one of the best metal working tool purchases that i have made in the last few years.

 

[9GUY9]

Good choice... I am glad you didn't buy that cheapo band saw... how loud is it?

I would have to agree with you, this is a pretty quality tool.

Cutting 20g steel studs it makes a lot of noise. Cutting heavier steel it is not as loud. I have been wearing ear muffs. The saw its self is about as loud as a chop saw.

Like others have said the cips do fly everywhere. I duct taped a small piece of tin on the saw near the vac port, this has cut down on the chips flying around quite a bit. The nice thing about the chips is they are much easier to sweep up compared to fine abrasive dust.

 

[alan camby]

I would have to agree with you, this is a pretty quality tool.

Cutting 20g steel studs it makes a lot of noise. Cutting heavier steel it is not as loud. I have been wearing ear muffs. The saw its self is about as loud as a chop saw.

Like others have said the cips do fly everywhere. I duct taped a small piece of tin on the saw near the vac port, this has cut down on the chips flying around quite a bit. The nice thing about the chips is they are much easier to sweep up compared to fine abrasive dust.

It is not just the clean up. The dust from a abrasive saw is not good for your lungs

 

[Chadwilliam1]

We had one at my previous employer and it was great. We cut 2" thick plate with it. We also used tubes of wax on it and I highly recomend a face shield with it. What is the COO on it?

 

[alan camby]

We had one at my previous employer and it was great. We cut 2" thick plate with it. We also used tubes of wax on it and I highly recomend a face shield with it. What is the COO on it?

Pretty sure that it is made in China. Which i believe is in southern Indiana

The blades are made in Japan

 

[cwlo]

Thanks for the good info Alan.

I've been using mine the last few months for cutting copper pipe for my heating system, steel emt conduit, threaded rod, aluminum radiant heat plates, heavy duty shelving uprights. So many uses, and it makes it so much easier as I'd be using a tubing cutter, hacksaw, sawzall, or angle grinder with cutoff instead.

Chris

 

[4x4renotaco]

Our Evo Raptor sucked up a 1/4 thick piece of 1 1/2 .120 HREW tube (at an angled cut) today and broke the damn cast aluminum guard(?) and folded the sliver of tube into a ball. First time we've tried to cut just a sliver off tubing. Wasn't me cutting, but I wonder if it was pushed too fast into the cut or if that just happens? I know that with 1" chunks of tube it kind of throws them back but not like an abrasive saw does (theres gouges in the concrete wall behind our saw from that). Also destroyed the blade in the process, whoops, back to the chop saw.

I've been cutting the hell out of 1.5" round and 2x2 and 2x3 square .120 wall lately. Making sliders for Toyota trucks (we cut a LOT of tube). It's LOUD, much louder than our Makita abrasive saw, (I do wear ear pro) but it's nice not to get that cloud of metal dust. I wear a respirator but still... I'd much rather deal with the chips. That's my favorite part. Cuts much cleaner, more square, and cooler as well.

 

[JP.]

Just a heads up:

Menard's has the Rage2 for $199 ($100 off) right now, and they have the Rage3 10" sliding miter saw for $149 ($100 off) this week.

Yes the Rage3 has a 1" arbor, so blade options are limited. Oshlun makes one for ferrous metal, and Evolotion has the multi-purpose blade, a ferrous blade, and a wood blade.

I picked up the Rage3 for its low rpm for a miter (2500 rpm) making it very suitable for dry cutting ferrous, and the fact that I can use it for metal and wood.

JP