Exeter's Vintage Tool Restoration Thread

[Exeter]

A few years ago I bought a new hatchet from a box store. It wasn't long before I discovered how poorly made it was. The edge would roll over on softer woods and it wouldn't stay sharp very long. After doing a little research on the web, I found that people were restoring old vintage axes because the craftsmanship and steel was superior to most modern tools.

I bought a couple old axe heads and begin the process of restoring them to good usable condition. The difference was a amazing and I started looking at other tools. I soon found GJ and lurked here for years before creating an account. Threads found here (and on other forums) convinced me that I needed vintage everything-a vise, block grinder, mill files, ratchets and chisels-the list goes on and on. I don’t like things that break, and plastic *****. My modern tools, many made in China, weren’t cutting it. So down the rabbit hole I went.

My Restoration Philosophy
For the most part I restore tools that I need and want to use myself. I understand that there are collectors out there that like to see tools left alone or restored to original condition. I am not that guy. If there is a way that I can change a tool to improve it’s ease of use or functionality, make it easier to maintain, make it more beautiful or change its form to one that I like better, I’ll probably do it. Patina be damned-I’ll make steel shine or give it a satin finish, replace parts with modern versions and be unapologetic about it all.

When I first started out I rarely took ‘before’ pictures of my restoration projects. So some of my posts will have just the after picture, but with my more recent projects I’ve been better about getting the before pics.

I hope you enjoy what follows.

First up is a Parker 271 ½ vise.

-Dan

 

[Exeter]

Parker 271 1/2 - circa 1935

Restored February 2015.

One of the first threads I found and followed on GJ was the vise thread. I immediately took to the Parkers. I love the design and style. Living in SW Idaho, we don't get many Parkers listed on CL. In fact I had not seen a single one listed until this one popped up. The seller just listed 'old vise'. It was in incredible condition for it's age.

Based on my research, I believe that it was made in the 30's. It has the captive wrench that was patented 6/10/1930 and the round knob that was discontinued, in favor of the cylindrical knob around WWII. If anyone has information that can narrow down the date it was made, I'd be interested to know.

After bead blasting.

Near perfect jaw surfaces.

Cleaned up the swivel jaw mating surfaces with some 220 grit on an automotive sanding block.

I had a machinist friend turn me some new parts.

Handle, swivel pin & swivel jaw captive pin.

I spent a couple hours sanding the tops and sides of the jaws to give it a clean brushed/satin finish. I also used a little bondo on the top of the swivel jaw, near the pin, to fill in where the casting sprue had been ground off. Finished her up with a couple coats of Rustoleum Flat Soft Iron paint.

 

[flkeysdude]

Here's a link to a similar vise...catalog was copyrighted 1946. Absolutely beautiful restoration...!!! Thanks for sharing...!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63694&page=2

 

[Jeremy77]

Beautiful restore! Pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of the pin on top of the static jaw?

 

[jakemac]

The static jaw on that model isn't static. It swivels.
The pin holds the jaw in place when you aren't trying to hold an odd sized object.

 

[Jeremy77]

Appreciate it, I actually noticed it swiveled in one of the pics after reading your reply. Thanks again.

 

[bonneyman]

Awesome restore!

I'm with you. making something useble (or better) is more important to me than patina. You may just have gotten me interested in Parkers.

 

[Exeter]

Awesome restore!

I'm with you. making something useble (or better) is more important to me than patina. You may just have gotten me interested in Parkers.

Thanks and it's good to know there are at least two of us

 

[drivesitfar]

Dan: WELL DONE!!! Thank you

 

[yaidunno]

Great job on the vise! That one looks to have been very well cared for.

 

[bagged89s10]

Awesome restoration! Parkers are my favorite vises!

 

[four.cycle]

Excellent.

Hey, regarding the "philosophy" thing: if you want to paint your tools pink with purple polka-dots, that's your choice. They are, after all, your tools.
I've restored antiques, and I've unwittingly destroyed any "collector value" of some other antiques by effecting unconventional "restoration" techniques.
We've all got different ways of doing stuff.

Bring on the torches and pitchforks.

 

[jipps]

Subscribed!

Delighted to see this back - great set of pics, great restoration

 

[Model A Fan]

Wonderful job on the restoration. When you bead blasted the vise, did you do the work yourself? Can you use beads in a sandblasting cabinet?

 

[d.mcfarland]

That's an awesome job!

 

[1/2 Cup]

That deserves a

Just awesome and thank you for sharing.

 

[Exeter]

Four.cycle:

Model A: Yes-you can use beads in a blasting cabinet, it's more gentle on the steel. I find sand it too abrasive.

 

[Exeter]

Wetterlings 3½ lb Axe - circa 1970

Here's one of the first axes I restored a couple years ago. It was in rough shape when I got it. The bit was shaped funny with some bad filing. The heel of the bit had been filed down a lot more than the toe, so the geometry wasn't too good. The poll had quite a bit of damage too.

The handle was held in place with hard plastic resin.

It took a couple hours of grinding, filing and polishing the bit to get her back in shape. Polished the bit down to a hazy mirror finish.

I removed the mushrooming on the poll and put a chamfer on the edges of the poll. I also blued the steel and made a custom handle for it. I wish I had taken pictures of the process for the handle. It took longer to make the handle than to restore the head. This has become my favorite axe in my collection. The steel is the hardest of any axe I've sharpened. I wore out 2 mill files while reshaping and sharpening the bit. After using the axe to cut through two 10" dried maple logs, I could still cut paper with the edge.

 

[bagged89s10]

Wetterlings 3½ lb Axe - circa 1970

Here's one of the first axes I restored a couple years ago. It was in rough shape when I got it. The bit was shaped funny with some bad filing. The heel of the bit had been filed down a lot more than the toe, so the geometry wasn't too good. The poll had quite a bit of damage too.

The handle was held in place with hard plastic resin.

It took a couple hours of grinding, filing and polishing the bit to get her back in shape. Polished the bit down to a hazy mirror finish.

I removed the mushrooming on the poll and put a chamfer on the edges of the poll. I also blued the steel and made a custom handle for it. I wish I had taken pictures of the process for the handle. It took longer to make the handle than to restore the head. This has become my favorite axe in my collection. The steel is the hardest of any axe I've sharpened. I wore out 2 mill files while reshaping and sharpening the bit. After using the axe to cut through two 10" dried maple logs, I could still cut paper with the edge.

Very nice.

 

[Exeter]

Ridgid Pipe Wrenches

I have only one close-up before picture on these. All of them had a good amount of rust on them. The 10" & 14" belonged to my grandfather and the 18" I picked up at a garage sale.

The !0" is a Craftsman version. Note the overlapped 'D' & 'G' on the Ridgid logo on the 2 larger wrenches.

I sandblasted the handes and sprayed them with Rustoleum Sunrise Red. The jaws on all 3 are in very good shape.

 

[Exeter]

Stanley 750 1" Socket Chisel - Circa 1930-1969

Before:

I sanded the flats of the chisel with sandpaper on float glass to keep them flat and hand rubbed the satin finish with a Scotch Brite pad. The handle is original-after sanding it down I gave it an ebony stain and several coats of lacquer and finished it up with a mirror polished edge. It's shaving sharp.
After:

 

[paulm12]

Looks great, I just started working on some hand tools as well. Did you remove the handle? The before picture seems to show the handle partially removed. If so, how did you re-insert? thanks

 

[Exeter]

Looks great, I just started working on some hand tools as well. Did you remove the handle? The before picture seems to show the handle partially removed. If so, how did you re-insert? thanks

Good eye picking up on the difference. The handles on socket chisels are meant to be removable. The handle was seated firmly on the before pic. I sanded down the end of the handle that is received in the socket so that it would seat deeper. To seat the handle you hold it vertical and rap the handle end on a table.

 

[paulm12]

got it, thanks again.