Exhaust nut/bolt loosening

[scratchedup]

Is this the best stuff to loosen exhaust nut/bolts?

---Aero Kriol (Kroil Aerosol) ???

THX

 

[csp]

Kroil is definitely good stuff. There are some times where multiple methods are required, so don't expect any penetrant to make it an easy job.

It might work, it might not.

 

[carhunter]

Can you get a mapp or OA torch in there? Heat to a dull glow, and quench with kroil or PB blaster. Usually works for me. Without heat, its much more difficult to break the chemical rust bond.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

50-50 Acetone and ATF is supposed to work great on stuck nuts.

 

[carhunter]

50-50 Acetone and ATF is supposed to work great on stuck nuts.

Ha! Was just thinking about that - its Dad's preferred remedy too.

 

[Bruce Amacker]

Quit kidding yourself and get a torch.

 

[csp]

It's funny that some people are ready to jump in with the blue tipped wrench when we don't even know if the OP has even tried to remove any nuts/bolts.

They may not even be stuck!

 

[hd54kh]

I usually use Kroil for a couple of days if time allows, than try to tighten ever so slightly to help break the rust bond and get a feeler if the nut/bolt will move.
If not I go to the blue tip wrench (first I ever heard of it called that here, funny) quench with cold water for the shock treatment, let a little kroil soak for a while, the longer the better. Again tighten slightly and than try to remove.

Terry

 

[Dark Horse]

Kroil, P'Blaster, Atf mix, Blue wrench and wax. A mig can work if you have the space on a bolt for weldment build up/add a nut to the top of the bolt. Actually worked better than blue wrench on stuck header bolts.

 

[Piper]

interestingly, kroil is actually acetone/atf in 50-50 if memory serves me correct. Good stuff for sure, and much better than pb-blaster.

Here's a previous posting...http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/27429-Please-confirm-MW-article-on-Penetrating-Oil

 

[scratchedup]

I have not started this project yet. I have a couple of cars to do. It will be my first time.

 

[mattygee]

When it comes to exhaust work, there is no substitute for heat. I have learned the hard way to heat every nut before putting a wrench/socket on it. Even a small MAPP torch w/a flexible hose for better access will do wonders. Like someone else mentioned, you may not need it, but I wouldn't start the job without a torch of some kind on hand. Also, when it comes to long exhaust studs, running a rethreading die up to the nut will remove alot of the rust that can bind up a nut before it is all the way off.

 

[logixjock]

When it comes to exhaust work, there is no substitute for heat. I have learned the hard way to heat every nut before putting a wrench/socket on it. Even a small MAPP torch w/a flexible hose for better access will do wonders. Like someone else mentioned, you may not need it, but I wouldn't start the job without a torch of some kind on hand. Also, when it comes to long exhaust studs, running a rethreading die up to the nut will remove alot of the rust that can bind up a nut before it is all the way off.

+1 on that. I used to own a muffler shop and I wouldn't even consider starting without getting the nut or stud red first. Once they are red, turn your impact all the way down and start hammering. Even removed studs from old chevy manifolds that were more than half rusted away. Never tried quenching it first though.

 

[Donald Cook]

If you clean it up first, with a small wire brush, then kroil let soak for a day it should work. the blue tip wrench is tricky and can cause it to be a bigger job. use only as last resort. I got some bolts loose on a 80 year old wagon sitting outside. they came off pretty nice, when I looked closer the threads were gone nothing broken though.

 

[camarotoolman]

GIBBs oil works good too.

 

[torqueman2002]

As others have said, multiple methods may be needed.

Use caution; however, with heat + penetrating oils - they can be flammable.

 

[srmofo]

I prefer heat and paraffin wax. Clean the studs up first, apply heat, quench if they look really bad, heat again to a dull red, apply wax. Hit it with an impact on low.

The heat pulls the wax into the threads and works wonders. Be warned if you get it to hot the wax will ignite, but generally speaking its nothing to worry about.

The wax won't evaporate off quickly like penetrating oils do

 

[scratchedup]

Is this the best stuff to loosen exhaust nut/bolts?

---Aero Kriol (Kroil Aerosol) ???

THX

Part 2

If this product worth the trouble of purchasing....?
I have ProGold lubricants PG2000 & CRC Knock'er Loose already
THX

 

[Piper]

I have to tell you, I used to swear by pb blaster, until I tried Kroil. I was amazed how well the kroil worked. I've admittedly never made my own "potion" like listed above but will the next time I've got some ATF left over after a change.

I think the Kroil is a worthy purchase and now it's all I buy when I need penetrating fluid.

 

[scratchedup]

I think the Kroil is a worthy purchase and now it's all I buy when I need penetrating fluid.

Thanks.

 

[mbatarga]

Quit kidding yourself and get a torch.

doesn't always work when you are close to a gas tank

 

[Lugnut64052]

Quit kidding yourself and get a torch.

X2 I never even try them until I turn 'em red.