To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Exhaust system connections...A request for advice

Wangstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Messages
405
Location
Triangle Area, NC, USA
I'm replacing the exhaust system on my old 1984 Chevy C20 truck. I’m going with 409 16 gauge stainless steel 2.25" components. I'm planning on using the more modern clamp exhaust joint design that Ford started using on the Mustang with the 2005 generation.

Here they are in use on the Boss Mustang[Note the flange for the side exhaust are used so a block off plate can be removed and reinserted by the end user as they want:
attachment.php


Here's a factory 2005/6 Ford Mustang exhaust system with the clamps:
attachment.php


This is the clamp I've got in hand already:
attachment.php

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692225/overview/

The clamp type pictured above is considered a "lap" connection clamp, with one end being designed for a 2.25" pipe stretched out to 2.375" to create a female connector, allowing the pipes to overlap inside of the clamp.

The other option is a "****" connection clamp where two 2.25" pipe sections are inserted into the clamp and touch end to end without any insertion overlap.

It struck me that the "lap" design would be better at ensuring sealing with the internal overlap

Note that these clamps are preformed to shape, and while it has some flex, it's prety solid. These aren't the softer metal band clamps that are packaged flat, nor are they the "v-band" clamps.

I'll have 6 connection points on a dual exhaust system that are marked with a yellow square on this diagram:
attachment.php


I know that diagram is horrible, but do you guys see any harm in using this type of clamp at the connections? If so, what should I use?

Assuming these clamps are good to go, should the shop simply expand one end to 2.375" and bolt it down with the clamps or do they need to make two cuts on the female end to allow it to compress down a bit as the clamp cinches down?

I'm confident my exhaust guy will have the right answer, but I'd also like to know what to expect when I walk in with parts in hand and ask him to start the job.

Thanks
Wes
 

Attachments

  • BossMustangExhaustClamps.jpg
    BossMustangExhaustClamps.jpg
    89.8 KB · Views: 982
  • m5lp_0702_06_z+magnaflow_exhaust+ford_stock_exhaust_system.jpg
    m5lp_0702_06_z+magnaflow_exhaust+ford_stock_exhaust_system.jpg
    94 KB · Views: 974
  • ExhaustLayoutVeryRough.jpg
    ExhaustLayoutVeryRough.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 956
  • sum-692200_w.jpg
    sum-692200_w.jpg
    8 KB · Views: 966
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,530
Location
visalia ca
First off, why so many clamp connections?
IMO you are using 2 or 4 more than you need.
I suspect that you want to be able to drop the center out for service, that's great but you can disconnect from the manifolds and in front of the mufflers to do that.
And then I'm not sure I understand the need to disconnect from the rear of the muffler

Bob
 

FastKat

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
553
I have a portion of my exhaust for my hotrod done in 2.25" 409 stainless and the shop used clamps like the ones you have pictures. I haven't had any problems with it. I haven't had that portion apart yet, either!
 

Stinger

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
839
Location
Basehor, KS
I sell band clamps with all of the exhaust systems I sell. They are the flanged style. I wouldn't say the flanged style seal better but they are stronger since the pipes overlap. Ideally, for the best seal you would have 4 slits cut in the expanded part of the pipe. If the expanded pipe is a tight fit, this won't be necessary though. If it's a looser fit, the grooves allow it to tighten up and seal.

FYI, those clamps need to be torqued down TIGHT. Once you heat cycle it a few times, it's best to get under there and tighten them all up again as they often stretch a bit the first heat cycle. If you have any that won't quite seal up, a thin coat of orange RTV under the edges of the clamps and in the seam of the clamp will take care of it.
 

phill u7c

Active member
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
38
Location
Cambridge, UK
You can't beat V clamps, You can find them on Ebay or most custom exhaust people will have them. When correctly fitted they don't leak, and they are easy to get apart. OH and they look super cool as well.
 

Attachments

  • Exhaust-Pipe-Clamp-3-V-Band-Clamps-Kits-.jpg
    Exhaust-Pipe-Clamp-3-V-Band-Clamps-Kits-.jpg
    74.9 KB · Views: 119

NHBandit

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
2,757
Location
East Tennessee
Here is what I used on my 67 Camaro. They do work best if the female pipe has a couple of slices in the end but I have loosened them up to re-position various pipes a few times and they don't dent the pipe like a traditional U-bolt type clamp and when tight they don't leak. They are stainless and cost alot less than the band clamps you show. They are much thicker than the band type clamps and do not overlap both pipes. I got them from the same folks I bought my exhaust from. Pypes. http://pypesexhaust.com/ Jegs is a Pypes dealer as well. These pics were taken 3 years after I installed the exhaust.
 

Attachments

  • 001.jpg
    001.jpg
    137.4 KB · Views: 160
  • 009.JPG
    009.JPG
    117.9 KB · Views: 153

MP&C

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,405
Location
Leonardtown, MD
The clamps you show are typically used on school buses because they supposedly seal better.. Of the many I have worked on, these clamps still leak, as shown by the soot on the outside of the exhaust pipe. I'd prefer to use V-band clamps if it were me...
 

scratchedup

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
834
Location
Fayetteville, GA
The clamps you show are typically used on school buses because they supposedly seal better.. Of the many I have worked on, these clamps still leak, as shown by the soot on the outside of the exhaust pipe. I'd prefer to use V-band clamps if it were me...

I have recently finished my dual exhaust re-do. The V-bands are really nice. I tried 3 different brands. I highly recommend this place- SS HEADERS

http://http://stainless.eclipticcms.com//vbandflanges

The amazon chinese ones are junk, the Vibrant ones are a lot better but these are bigger and heaver.

They are all very difficult to weld with out some warping. One needs to weld in increments and stop to let piece cool completely then start in again. Its time consuming but worth it.

image_zps472a100d.jpg
 
Last edited:

YourConfused

New member
Joined
Oct 21, 2013
Messages
3
Location
ATX
Above info is good, so I will just add my personal bit about just one exhaust system done to just one of my vehicles.

In the summer of 2000 I had my midas exhaust fall off of my GMC 1/2 ton. I bought tubing from summit or jegs (too long ago to remember) and used the Walker brand "**** joint" style of band clamps to mate things up to the stock ball/joint nubs on the cast iron manifolds to the rest of the new exhaust system. Basically 13 yrs later and I have the same clamps holding the same tubes together without leaks. I have only re-used the clamps once, to replace the cat, so even with the mileage and NVH stresses they have endured, they are working today the same as they did over a decade ago when I first installed them. I would consider them to be a great product. YMMV
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

paranoid56

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
1,596
Location
San Diego, Ca
You can't beat V clamps, You can find them on Ebay or most custom exhaust people will have them. When correctly fitted they don't leak, and they are easy to get apart. OH and they look super cool as well.

yep, this is what i use now too. soo much better then any of the other types of clamps
 

bad_idea

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2011
Messages
4,335
Location
Pasquotank, NC
OP,

The clamps you show are what I have on my 2002 Camaro. They make taking the exhaust apart much easier than the older style of clamps. I have not tried the V clamps, I am cheap. I think you have too many clamps though. I would bolt the exhaust to the manifolds, then have a pair of clamps before the rear axle. If and when you need to drop the exhaust for repair work, just disconnect at the headers and pull the tail pipes loose. A bit more of a PITA to remove and replace, but how often do you plan on dropping it?
 

cyamaha2007

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
2,001
Location
St.Charles MO
OP I really like the clamps you have selected. I generally slit the expanded end in 3 places. I use a cutting wheel on the grinder then i switch to a grinding wheel to open the slice. I just find they seal better like this.
 

JohnMcD348

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
614
Location
Lakeland, FL
I used **** style Band clamps on my complete exhaust replacement on my 92 Bronco and it's worked out pretty well so far after 3 years now. I wanted to go with the **** connection so it was a full 2 1/2" system with as little restriction as possible.
 

Bert_

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,788
Location
NW Iowa
Those clamps are common on big trucks. I've used a few small ones on cars too. They work good
 

Wrench97

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,171
Location
Southeastern Pa
The clamps shown in your first image are not the commonly found band clamps made to cover 2 different size pipes(where one slides into the other.

They are **** connect reinforced band clamps made to **** connect pipes together> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...JxCxkL-TODRD4Iy44utKy0z-LhWFOqsxoC38sQAvD_BwE

The standard band clamps are used where one pipe goes inside another and you normally would use a u clamp.
**** connect clamps are made to use on a system where you would have to cut the welded OEM muffler off and replace it with a OEM supplied muffler that has a pipe the same diameter already welded to it, you mostly see this in rear end collision repairs where the muffler was damaged and that is the fix.
 

cpttuna

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Messages
13,271
Location
napoleon ohio
my exhaust system is fabricated with scrap 304 stainless. the connections are all welded. Three clamps are used just to hold it in place.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom