Exit Valve for Ball Joint Grease?

[YoshiMoshi3]

Sealed ball joints have seals at both the top and bottom of the boot, but do not allow for additional grease to be added. Grease stays in good condition for a long time.

Greasable ball joints have a zero fitting so you can add grease, and either the top or bottom of the boot is not sealed, allowing for an exit path for old grease as you add new grease. Water and grime can enter into the ball joint from the exit path.

Is there a best of both worlds option? A greasable ball joint with a zerk fitting that is sealed at both the top and bottom of the boot (snap ring or retaining ring or otherwise) and a way to install a exit valve? Like drill and tap a hole into the metal of the ball joint and install a plug. When adding grease, remove the plug to allow a path for the old grease to come out. Water, dirt and grime stays out, and there's a way to add new grease.

This is as opposed to just using a needle grease gun coupler and puncturing the boot to a sealed ball joint. I've tried this method, and placing silicone on the boot where the puncture is. Water and crime still gets in. When adding grease to the zerk, old grease goes out the puncture, acting like a exit valve.

I'm thinking of a more purpose built valve in the metal casing of the ball joint that would do a better job at keeping dirt and grime out.

My only thought is installing a zerk and an exit port into a ball joint casing, is that when adding grease, the grease would just take the path of least resistance and go out of the newly drilled exit port once the plug is removed.

 

[rust in the eye]

If you wished to add a zerk removing the boot's bottom snap ring would allow old grease to be displaced as in the non-sealed type.
Drilling and tapping the sealed joint without damage or introducing debris would be the tricky part.

 

[American Locomotive]

I've replaced both greaseable and non-greasable ball joints, and I don't really ever recall noticing a difference in the construction of the boots? I'm pretty sure the grease just forces it way past the seal? I've seen some ball joints with a little pimple-check-valve thing that the excess grease squirts out of.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

I've replaced both greaseable and non-greasable ball joints, and I don't really ever recall noticing a difference in the construction of the boots? I'm pretty sure the grease just forces it way past the seal? I've seen some ball joints with a little pimple-check-valve thing that the excess grease squirts out of.

Yea I have seen those pimple check valves. Is there anyway to install this on a boot without one?

I've tried bumping grease into joint with retaining rings at both the top and bottom, eventually boot just pops and a pin hole is made in the boot. Pin hole allows grease out, but also allows water and dirt in.

 

[jayemm]

I don't know if you're throwing out different scenarios to elicit ideas or comments so I'll just comment on your first sentence regarding sealed joints.
My previous car (had over 10 years) had the sealed tie rod ends and ball joints "dry up" causing binding where the steering wheel didn't want to return to center naturally and required constant correction. I read somewhere that the term for this is "memory steer", but whatever. The problem was really annoying and I noticed that after lowering the car from jack stands that it steered easier and normal for a short time before returning. Theorizing that movement of the joints had temporarily redistributed grease, I injected grease through the boots (as high up as possible) with a grease needle.

To seal the holes I first ran a pipe cleaner (the wiry ,fuzzy type for cleaning tobacco pipes) soaked with solvent thru the hole to remove grease from the edges of the hole ( used non- residue QD Electronic cleaner). Then inserted a short section of fresh pipe cleaner coated with Permatex Adhesive Sealant into the hole just slightly, cleaned the boot around the hole, and finished with blob to seal around the outside and cut off with about 1/8" of wire protruding. Never leaked.
I've mentioned this stuff before but the Permatex is stronger than regular RTV and adheres well. I always keep a fresh tube on hand (as it hardens in the tube) and saves trips to the store It strongly affixes body molding and even repaired CV boot holes with it. Cleanliness of surfaces, as always, is important.

Permatex® Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 OZ | Permatex®

www.permatex.com

 

[WWheeler]

Greasable ball joints often have an arrow meant to be facing inwards because there is a relief or tiny hole in the boot meant for grease to escape that direction. I've seen them installed wrong on a top ball joint whoever was greasing the hell out of them had grease running off the end of the control arm and down on top of the dust shield and rotor. I've pointed out the arrow as the reason why it's doing that.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Instead of an exit port for old grease, is it possible to unfasten the zerk feting and thread in some piece with a hole in it, attach a hose and **** out the old grease with a vacuum. Essentially the opposite of a grease gun?