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Expanding a Tube

Provincial

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Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Messages
6,874
Location
Near Salem, OR
I am repairing my Case 580E backhoe. After 30 years the steel line to the hydraulic oil cooler developed a rust pit that leaked under the radiator. At first, I thought it was the $750 hydraulic pump, but I dodged the bullet!

The tube had a lot of rust pitting in the front end where dirt built up where it isn't accessible to pressure washing. The tubing wasn't painted or plated before assembly, and the factory paint job didn't reach that area. Since the rest of the tube was in good condition, I spliced a new section where it left the frame and crossed under the radiator. I did this to both the inlet and outlet tubes, and primed and painted them before assembly.

The tubes connect to the oil cooler using short 1/2" hoses and worm screw hose clamps. This is a low pressure return line, so Case kept it simple. The tubing is 5/8" outside diameter, and Case reduced it to 1/2" by brazing a short piece of 1/2" tubing inside. The smaller tubing has a bead formed near the end to help retain the hose.

I have a set of tools to form the beads in tubing, so I was able to duplicate the factory end. I found that the smaller tubing was a very loose fit in the larger tubing, and wanted to expand it enough to hold it in place while I brazed it, but also leave a gap for the brazing rod to flow into.

I used the beading tool to expand the other end of the small tube just enough to hold it firmly in place. This worked perfectly, allowing the brazing rod to flow into the gap between the two tubes.

Attached are photos of the small tube, the tools, and the assembled joint before brazing.
 

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Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
Messages
6,874
Location
Near Salem, OR
It is a Parker set that was probably made for aircraft production/maintenance during WWII. I bought it from an outfit that had a lot of surplus stuff in 1974, and I think it was new. It has four tools and one that works like a vise with rubber jaws. Range is 1/4" to 1" outside diameter tubing, but I have used the largest tool on 1-1/2" aluminum tubing with good results. It is in a black plastic (not blow-molded, but solid, heavy, plastic) case with the instructions glued on the inside of the lid.

The tube is .049 wall thickness, 1010 mild carbon steel, annealed. I just kept spinning the tool and gradually tightening the screw, like you do with a tubing cutter.
 

gungatim

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Jan 8, 2013
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8,101
Location
west mich
sorry to hijack but I know you can make your own tubing beader from an HF pipe cutter. I saved a picture from somewhere that someone made (maybe here?) for some reason the picture looks funky when I open it but the thumbnail works fine...I'd like to make one if anyone remembers where this came from??
 

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Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
Messages
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Location
Near Salem, OR
Just for everyones information, the 1/4" tool in my set does not have a rotating mandrel. The fixed mandrel has a ridge toward the rollers, but is flush (straight) on the back side. I believe that this design was intended to provide the greatest strength to the mandrel, at the expense of not rotating.

Another of my set uses interchangable mandrels for 3/8" 1/2", and 5/8", and the 3/4" and 1" tool has two mandrels.

Here is a link to a set like mine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-WWII-ERA-PARKER-PRODUCTS-HAND-BEADING-TOOL-KIT-416-ANTIQUE-AVIATION-RARE-/161920674503?hash=item25b3396ac7
 

Ed ke6bnl

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Aug 1, 2005
Messages
495
Location
Agua Dulce, Calif.
I just put that on things I want to make, presently I just do a double flair on the tubing to hold it but I like this better, I do have on tool that does that for 7/16" tube for under the sink old style plumbing tubing.
 
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