Experiences with Single-Part Polyurea?

[STINEY]

Last Tuesday we placed 1/2 of our new floor in the 40x64 building. Now to find an appropriate coating to keep it nice.

Have been reading about Single-Part Polyurea and it sounds good.

Does anyone have semi-long-term experience with it? And would you share any pro's or con's?

 

[STINEY]

Nobody? I thought surely the board vendors would chime in..... I am ready to buy something after all.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Nobody? I thought surely the board vendors would chime in..... I am ready to buy something after all.

It’s a pretty remarkable product (NohrS) Your post looked like you wanted users to chime in. Most users move on to other things once projects are completed.


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[STINEY]

Most users move on to other things once projects are complete.

I suppose that explains it.


So from my research this is a product developed relatively recently in the 90's, is tintable, goes on in one step and dries quickly in a few hours.

It seems to be impervious to solvents as well? I know normal traditional sealers turn into sticky goo mess if gasoline is spilled on them.


Am I missing anything?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, has excellent chem resistance.
Here is a link to the kit: https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/nohr-coatings/nohr-s-polyurea-coating-garage-kit.html

 

[Garage Flooring]

Last Tuesday we placed 1/2 of our new floor in the 40x64 building. Now to find an appropriate coating to keep it nice.

Have been reading about Single-Part Polyurea and it sounds good.

Does anyone have a semi-long-term experience with it? And would you share any pro's or con's?

I waited a bit to chime in because I was hoping you would get some more user feedback. Like Scotty said many probably go away after finding what they needed.

We have several of our customer's reviews and project profiles posted in the coatings section of our articles. Many are single part Polyurea.

garageflooringllc.com/category/garage-floor-coatings/

 

[rnixon]

Nobody? I thought surely the board vendors would chime in..... I am ready to buy something after all.

My polyurea floor is almost a year old and looks as good as the day I put it down . I've spilled gas , diesel, carb cleaner, power steering fluid ,atf and anti-freeze, on it without effect, manufacturer says brake fluid will "eat" into it but that takes hours

I've walked on it ,when it was covered with rust scale an grease after doing ball joints and an exh system on my truck , then just wiped off the grease with a rag an swept up the rust with a broom

Parked my truck covered with snow an road salt , after the melt water dried, thought I'd have to scrub off the salt stains an mop it clean , turned out all I needed was a broom an dust pan, swept clean with one pass and I spread the salt on my icy driveway

I had been covering the floor when I did any painting, turns out that isn't necessary, paint doesn't stick to it, at least latex paint , just lifts right off

A couple of weeks after I put it down a wheel on a tool cart picked up a pebble an put a deep 2 foot scratch into my new floor , wiped it clean with alcohol, used a paint brush with my leftover poly, and when i dried it was as if it never happened

It's been almost a year and I just wipe up the spills and have yet to wash it, just sweep up. The best part is it's Cheap, I did one coat 4mils thick, covered 1100 square feet with 3 1/2 gal. All in for about 65 cents a sq.ft.

 

[STINEY]

My polyurea floor is almost a year old and looks as good as the day I put it down . I've spilled gas , diesel, carb cleaner, power steering fluid ,atf and anti-freeze, on it without effect, manufacturer says brake fluid will "eat" into it but that takes hours

I've walked on it ,when it was covered with rust scale an grease after doing ball joints and an exh system on my truck , then just wiped off the grease with a rag an swept up the rust with a broom

Parked my truck covered with snow an road salt , after the melt water dried, thought I'd have to scrub off the salt stains an mop it clean , turned out all I needed was a broom an dust pan, swept clean with one pass and I spread the salt on my icy driveway

I had been covering the floor when I did any painting, turns out that isn't necessary, paint doesn't stick to it, at least latex paint , just lifts right off

A couple of weeks after I put it down a wheel on a tool cart picked up a pebble an put a deep 2 foot scratch into my new floor , wiped it clean with alcohol, used a paint brush with my leftover poly, and when i dried it was as if it never happened

It's been almost a year and I just wipe up the spills and have yet to wash it, just sweep up. The best part is it's Cheap, I did one coat 4mils thick, covered 1100 square feet with 3 1/2 gal. All in for about 65 cents a sq.ft.

Thanks for the input. Your floor is EXACTLY what I had in mind! That is a stain under the polyurea, right? What color? I like how it looks like weathered copper, beautiful.

 

[dirtydrew420]

I just bought a 600sqft kit from garage flooring LLC. I'll give you some feedback after I get it down, need to wait for steady 50° weather, which should be right around the bend. From my research, they're one of the best companies out there for both price point and quality of product. Not to mention product support.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[rnixon]

PM sent

 

[Azzkker]

My polyurea floor is almost a year old and looks as good as the day I put it down . I've spilled gas , diesel, carb cleaner, power steering fluid ,atf and anti-freeze, on it without effect, manufacturer says brake fluid will "eat" into it but that takes hours

I've walked on it ,when it was covered with rust scale an grease after doing ball joints and an exh system on my truck , then just wiped off the grease with a rag an swept up the rust with a broom

Parked my truck covered with snow an road salt , after the melt water dried, thought I'd have to scrub off the salt stains an mop it clean , turned out all I needed was a broom an dust pan, swept clean with one pass and I spread the salt on my icy driveway

I had been covering the floor when I did any painting, turns out that isn't necessary, paint doesn't stick to it, at least latex paint , just lifts right off

A couple of weeks after I put it down a wheel on a tool cart picked up a pebble an put a deep 2 foot scratch into my new floor , wiped it clean with alcohol, used a paint brush with my leftover poly, and when i dried it was as if it never happened

It's been almost a year and I just wipe up the spills and have yet to wash it, just sweep up. The best part is it's Cheap, I did one coat 4mils thick, covered 1100 square feet with 3 1/2 gal. All in for about 65 cents a sq.ft.

Nice wheel horse. I have a 1974 d200 with everything but a snow blower. It does have the big front blade and the vinyl and canvas cab.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I just bought a 600sqft kit from garage flooring LLC. I'll give you some feedback after I get it down, need to wait for steady 50° weather, which should be right around the bend. From my research, they're one of the best companies out there for both price point and quality of product. Not to mention product support.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thank you

 

[latuk]

My polyurea floor is almost a year old and looks as good as the day I put it down . I've spilled gas , diesel, carb cleaner, power steering fluid ,atf and anti-freeze, on it without effect, manufacturer says brake fluid will "eat" into it but that takes hours

I've walked on it ,when it was covered with rust scale an grease after doing ball joints and an exh system on my truck , then just wiped off the grease with a rag an swept up the rust with a broom

Parked my truck covered with snow an road salt , after the melt water dried, thought I'd have to scrub off the salt stains an mop it clean , turned out all I needed was a broom an dust pan, swept clean with one pass and I spread the salt on my icy driveway

I had been covering the floor when I did any painting, turns out that isn't necessary, paint doesn't stick to it, at least latex paint , just lifts right off

A couple of weeks after I put it down a wheel on a tool cart picked up a pebble an put a deep 2 foot scratch into my new floor , wiped it clean with alcohol, used a paint brush with my leftover poly, and when i dried it was as if it never happened

It's been almost a year and I just wipe up the spills and have yet to wash it, just sweep up. The best part is it's Cheap, I did one coat 4mils thick, covered 1100 square feet with 3 1/2 gal. All in for about 65 cents a sq.ft.

What poly did you use on your floor?

 

[rnixon]

What poly did you use on your floor?

PM sent

 

[jamull2852]

curious to know which flooring you used as well

 

[rnixon]

allgaragefloors.com/diy-acid-stained-floor/

Here's a link to a " how to" article of my acid stained polyurea floor that Allgaragefloors published on their web site last year

 

[STINEY]

One more question - - how long should my slab cure before acid staining/Polyurea?

We placed the other half on Wednesday so the clock is ticking down to being able to stain and seal.

 

[rnixon]

One more question - - how long should my slab cure before acid staining/Polyurea?

We placed the other half on Wednesday so the clock is ticking down to being able to stain and seal.

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

You can stain anytime after 30 days , but I'd advise waiting as long as possible to insure a throughly dry an temperature stable slab.

Ideal conditions for the Polyurea are , 3 days of low humidity with 0% chance of rain

 

[dcg9381]

Does anyone have semi-long-term experience with it? And would you share any pro's or con's?

Did mine 2 years ago. 2400 sqft shop, 40x60. I basically did one coat, so I'd say that first coat goes in with the "lower range" of advertised coverage.

One coat is kinda matte finish, successive coatings (or touch up) can be seen - as they tend to build up the gloss.

I love the stuff. I've spilled gas, oil, diesel - all has come up great. No tire tracks. Only thing I've found that can stain it is PVC primer (purple) and then only if you don't get it up immediately. It's much less expensive than epoxy, simple to apply... I've had ZERO issues with cracking, chipping, or having it come up off the floor. I'll likely be using it again in residential with 2 coats.

It may be slick when wet.

I'm not totally crazy about how the solid color polyurea looks (compared to well done epoxy) - but I didn't try to build it up over several coats. If you want a protective finish on your floor, I think it's excellent.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, our popular SPGX one part polyurea has thousands of happy GJ users over the years. Super chemical resistance and very easy to apply.

 

[STINEY]

Re: My experience with Acid Staining & Single-Part Polyurea

Some follow up on my experience with acid staining and polyurea.

Bought a couple of sample colors that my wife chose to pick from. First picture is after the acid is on but before neutralizing and mopping.

And after neutralizing by mopping with a ammonia/water solution.

My youngest son Wes used Gorilla Tape to mask off the door thresh-hold, floor drains, water hydrant, and overhead door. This tape worked great for the job, by the way.

The floor after spraying on the acid stain and neutralizing. It took a couple of cycles of mopping and drying to get all of the residue up.

And after the 2nd coat of PolyUrea. The second coat was a little difficult for me to see where I had already rolled it, but not too hard. Thought it was worth mentioning.

Also worth mentioning. This stuff tacks up pretty quickly. My floor dried for a week after mopping with water, and the humidity was low at 20% (very dry for Ohio). I tried to touch up a spot with the roller and it was a bad idea. VERY sticky! I started in the corner of the 40' end wall and rolled from the wall to the first cut line at 8' out, and worked that 8' out down the whole end wall. By the time I went back to start the next 8' section along the side wall the spot where I started was so sticky it almost tore the roller napping.

So commit to the job and keep at it until that stage is done.

Long term - it has been down since November 2020, it is now March 2021 and it has seen daily vehicle traffic, heavy roller cabinets, engine dollies, and a snow-covered skid-loader which leaked thick oily crud like only old equipment can. EVERYTHING mopped right up with soap and water, and it looks like new. Very satisfied.

Oh, and if you have fiberglass reinforcement strands in your concrete they will be slightly annoying if you don't get rid of them before coating. I overlooked this on the first half, and while they act like anti-slip treatment somewhat I would much rather they not be there.

On the second half I took a propane powered weed-burner torch to the floor first and it got rid of the little strands poking out of the slab.

Hope this helps someone trying to decide. If you like the look of it you will love the performance of it. I sure do.