Exposed conduit on garage walls?

[DesertSparky57]

Exposed conduit is the only way to do it. I think it is just plain mean to cover up something as pretty as well ran conduit with something as hideous as drywall.

If you can run a tape real well, your bender and you will be really good friends. I personally have always preferred the Ideal brand of hand/foot benders. Marks are good on the head and the handle is just right for flipping it upside down.

I am biased though, I believe ALL electrical should be in conduit. This flex/romex/MC stuff... Ugh I hate it and wish it would be outlawed nation wide.

 

[James_B]

When we moved in to our place in Newfoundland, our 16' x 22' double garage had one outlet that shared its circuit with a number of rooms, and a pair of 60 watt bulbs controled from a single wall switch. The door opener, an unswitched exterior security light, and an unswitched interior security light, were all fed using either extension leads or exposed 14/2 cable fitted with standard plugs, all held up to the ceiling with copper plumbing saddles and plugged into a multi-outlet adapter in the single outlet. There was also a security timer that controlled the lights on the driveway, and it was connected to the nearby electrical panel via some unsecured 14/2 red/black cable. The walls were a real mix of surfaces with most of it sheeted in painted OSB board that had been badly installed over the top of drywall. This garage was never going to look neat, so surface wiring in PVC conduit and PVC electrical boxes was the way to go.

When we moved out 4 years later, the garage had a pair of double florescent lights with 2 way switches that used the original concealed wiring (and I was preparing to add another pair that would connect to the original lights using PVC conduit).

The electrical outlet situation was handled by a pair of 20A circuits that ran along each wall in PVC conduit at a height that was above all the benches, but the multiple 20A GFCI outlets were still at a convenient height.

At the same time, I ran a 50A/220V circuit in PVC conduit to a 6-50R outlet close to the garage door. In that location, the outlet would allow me to use the welder in conjunction with a 25 foot welding rated 6-50 type extension lead anywhere within the garage or 30 feet down the driveway.

The garage door and now switched external security light ran in a PVC conduit line down the centre of the garage. The feed for the driveway timer was re-run using the correct cable in PVC conduit from the switchboard, and an extension feed from the timer ran in PVC conduit to a GFCI outlet at the front corner of the garage that fed the garden lights and was available to be used to feed the Christmas lights.

At the same time I ran phone and Cat5e network cables into the garage.

The people that bought our house had a garage that was up to code, ready to be used for any purpose, and if more outlets were needed, it was a relatively simple task to re-route the PVC conduit or add more outlet boxes into the runs.

 

[Thruxton]

I think exposed conduit has a number of advantages- more flexible layout, better looking - more "pro", cooler, and you know where not to drive a nail

Here are some shots from my shop:

This shows the subpanel, the first GFCI outlet installed to build the rest of the shop, and the dust collector control switch (it's in a shed enclosure on the other side of the wall), and the run below for workbench outlets, air compressor, and welding outlet:
View media item 31523
The conduit here is from the panel in the previous picture, contains runs for two more shop outlet circuits including the ceiling outlet pictured, and the outlet for the pump for the scissors lift:
View media item 31526
Here's the welder outlet (outdoor box at the bottom closed when not in use to keep **** out) and end of one of the 120V workbench runs. The wall switches are for the lights- the only in-wall wiring:
View media item 31525
120V utility outlets, and the 240V outlet (covered when not in use like that for the welder):
View media item 31524
All 120V outlets are 20A GFCI protected by breakers in the panel, other than the single 20A double directly underneath the panel, 4 circuits total including that one with for a total of 9 quad and one double - no, two, there is a double in an in-use weatherproof box on the other side of the wall from the welder outlet- and there are 5 240V circuits all on their own breakers. I guess I am trying to make a point about flexibility and maybe how easy it is to organize multiple circuits with conduit. Anyway, hope it gives you some ideas!

 

[my68spit]

Thank you all for your input. The more I think about it and hear from those of you who have exposed conduit, the more I like the idea. Flexibility and functionality. Perfect.

I also like the idea of learning to use the conduit bender that I inherited from an uncle. Seems like it could be a good skill to have under my belt.

 

[Thruxton]

And it's fun, too! As long as you stay away from the 1 1/4"...

 

[DesertSparky57]

Bending is fun. Little things like distance from box to strap and distance from coupling to strap can make regular ole conduit look like a work of art. Just take the time to plan out your runs, well planned conduit is also easier to run most times.

Bending can be hard to learn for some, just need to know where to measure to. No centerline stuff, always bottom and back of conduit. If you don't know the take-up on the bender, measure a piece straight then bend the shortest 90 you can and measure from back of 90 to the opposite end, a wall or the floor comes in handy, note the difference from bent piece to straight piece. This amount will make all your 90's come out right, when added to your desired length. There may or may not be a mark on the head to line up your marks on the pipe with, if not make one.

Watch the fill on 1/2" EMT, it fills up quick.

Check this out. Something I found real quick.
http://www.cefga.org/documents/BendingRaceways.pdf

 

[jayrush13]

Don't over do it.

I don't see any straps

 

[01ssreda4]

Do it!......

 

[oldtinsmith]

I've got my lights in the ceiling (using 4 switches) and everything below the ceiling (except the service panel & light switches) is run through conduit. Love'n the industrial look of the conduit (but not the messy shop)!




Doug

 

[metalmagpie]

One way you can do this if you don't want exposed conduit is to remove any toe kick boards and cut the drywall up about 6". Once you fish down one wire you can easily run it wherever you need, then make up toekick boards to cover the gap.

My garage, er, shop has conduit all over the place. I have a 220 single phase bus running around my shiop to six different stations. Also 117 single phase, also to six stations. Also, 220 three phase routed to all six stations. That's in one half of my shop. I recently upgrade my phase converter and stuck it a long ways away so now there's 220 three phase conduit running into that room as well. Also start/stop stations to start the phase converter, also a compressed air system, plus my fluorescent lights are wired with exposed conduit.

Like I said, everywhere. And I like it!

metalmagpie

 

[marinusdees]

Jhc!!

 

[LutzTD]

I like conduit, it lends a real industrial look. Start out with the small diameter stuff and work your way up to the larger stuff, that way a bad bend doesnt cost as much. bender are dirt cheap on craigs and I have been using a cold saw to cut the lengths so much less end dressing

 

[Ign]

When I build my new garage (which we are planning now), I am very tempted to run surface/exposed conduit. Should I ever change the layout of my garage, adapting the space will be very easy.

This.

As to the OP's question, you're the only one who will ever notice it. Take a look in many commercial buildings, esp block buildings and/or basements. LOTS of conduit on the walls and unless you're an electrician or hobbyist getting ready to put it into your garage, you won't notice it. Just as you never notice welds on handrails, bike racks, I-beams etc unless you're a welder or hobbyist learning to weld.

 

[James_B]

One way you can do this if you don't want exposed conduit is to remove any toe kick boards and cut the drywall up about 6". Once you fish down one wire you can easily run it wherever you need, then make up toekick boards to cover the gap.

The office area at the workshop I was in back in the late 80s, had specialised conduit baseboards ... 4 inches high, 1 inch deep, extruded aluminium with 3 separated open channel conduits ... large one for power cables, two smaller ones to keep phone/data and misc LV stuff segregated. Sheet metal covers that just popped in. Need a new outlet somewhere else. Just pop off the cover, and either cut a new hole for an outlet in the existing cover or buy a new section of cover pre-punched for the outlet. Looked neat and functional.

 

[buzz4041]

Here's alink to another thread on the subject. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136868&highlight=buzz4041

 

[Ohmthis]

I also say run exposed. I thought I'd add a little to the layout planning though. I've run miles on "pipe" in my years. Pre think your layout to give you the easiest run. If you need multiple runs on the same path plan the first drops on the bottom so you don't have to cross the bottom with the top conduit. I also like vertical drops from your main branch instead of one drop and then run horizontal. It gives a nicer look and can be easier to remove one outlet when needed without having to remove several. I also suggest you use a larger conduit for your main branch like 3/4 and then drop 1/2 where needed. Good luck and show us what you got when done.

 

[sberry]

You can do both, nothing wrong with a cable in many cases. A conduit raceway in some places where additions may be needed is great. I also have steel building, lots of it is under the floor. I have 5 subs, wired branches as needed.

 

[volaredon]

my elec conduit is all in the walls all that is exposed is exposed only because I decided to leave my ceiling as open joists...
but my gas line to my Modine hanging heater will be exposed on top of the OSB sheathing when I get around to plumbing it.

 

[James_B]

I did many years as an installation technician and I learned to love exposed ceiling mounted cable trays for running cables ... we'd often have runs of 12 or more 60 pair audio/control cables coming from just one air traffic control console. The worst part was when the rainy season hit, and all sorts of wildlife would invade the cable trays via the ducting from outside cable pits. You'd lay 12 cables one day, and as you're grouping the cables by feel the next day to tie them down, there's one more cable up there than there should be and it moves by itself. You back of quickly until you find out what kind of snake it is.

 

[460Rustang]

I was considering conduit in my garage until I realized it was going to cost me twice as much for the materials. I simply measured the height of the "old work" boxes, snapped a level line at the top and bottom and ran my circular saw set to 5/8". I pull the drywall nails within the 3 1/2 strip and the drywall popped right out without any problem.


<a href="http://s193.photobucket.com/user/theburtons4/media/image.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z120/theburtons4/image.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo image.jpeg"/></a>

I installed 9 outlets on one side of the garage and roughed in the other side for a different weekend project. Now I just have to fix the 1/16 cut line and nail holes and repaint.
<a href="http://s193.photobucket.com/user/theburtons4/media/photo.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z120/theburtons4/photo.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo.jpg"/></a>

So much nicer,...........

 

[Fueler]

I went external with the conduit because I view a working shop as a fluid thing. Glad I did as electrical demands change over time. Plus it's easy to figure out what wire goes where. I did powdercoat my outlet covers to match whatever theme I think I have. Came out cool.

Once can always paint the conduit to blend in like resturants do with all the stuff in their open ceilings.

Either way each method won't be noticeable in a month and no one will point fingers at you that you broke some kind of H&G rule.

 

[Kevin54]

I know it gets hot down where you are at, but you don't have insulation in the wall? Not only would insulation keep the hot out, it would help keep the cool in.

 

[sunsation288]

the ability to add to it or modify on the fly is very much an advantage.

X2 , i have done mine with conduit , and can't imagine have done mine inside garage wall

 

[my68spit]

well, it's been a while since i originally started thinking about this process, but I finally got around to it! I started off with just the 4 outlets, about a month ago, and then today I was able to get out into the garage with this beautiful weather and add the last outlet and switch for the light that has been hanging on the ceiling (not wired) for the better part of a year and a half. I am not entirely done yet, but this is a good starting point for me. I will be adding a lot more outlets around the perimeter of the garage as well as 2 more shop lights in the near future and 2 more by the end of the year.

Here are some pictures of the progress:

LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!!

Upon showing my wife the completed project she said, "It's daytime out...do you really need that light on?"

 

[jwh]

Upon showing my wife the completed project she said, "It's daytime out...do you really need that light on?"

Yep, mine would have said the same thing.

John in Rochester NY

 

[EvilEye]

Here is what I did. It was easy and it makes changes in the future easy.

I did this all around the walls with larger conduit at the top running parallel with the floor so I could pull 3 to 5 circuits around the garage. Having a 200 amp main also helps for welding and air compressor circuits.