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Extend Garage

tcline76

New member
Joined
Mar 29, 2010
Messages
2
Location
Westchester, IL
I'm contemplating a garage project and would love any advice you may have. I live in the suburbs of Chicago (Westchester) and have a 2.5 car detached garage. The siding and framing are in good shape but the roof desperately needs replacing (tear-off) and the floor is badly cracked and crumbling. As I'm already getting a new roof and floor I thought I might just extending the garage to utilize the 8 feet of empty yard behind it. Is this advisable or am I asking for trouble having new framing/slab added to old? The estimate to replace the existing roof is $2500 and I have yet to get an estimate to repair the floor. Can anyone tell me approx how much adding another 8 feet of garage is going to add to the cost of the whole project. I'd appreciate any thoughts you have.
 
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Kevro

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2010
Messages
108
Location
Chester County, PA
No idea what that would cost, but check with your zoning board about setbacks - you might not be allowed to build anything in the 8 feet of empty yard. Or, it might be possible, but would require a variance in order to get the permit, which depends on your neighbors not fighting it...good luck!
 

TurboCup87

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
160
Location
WV
I've extended two different garages. First was a single that I extended inline to fit two cars. Did it 28 some years ago. Did it essentially by myself and with some help and knowledge from my Dad. AFAIK it's still standing.

My current garage is an attached 2 1/2 car. I extended it 17' to make a 4 car garage and shop. The only thing I wish I'd done differently would have been to raise the interior ceiling so that I could have put in a lift! A lot of work has gone on in this garage. This was done in '93. Do it!

A look at the interior:

GarageatNight.jpg
 

KCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
2,075
Location
50 miles outside Chicago, illinois
tcline76,
I grew up in Westchester (or as we called it growing up...Deadchester)
Just kidding, love that town...I go back every year for Westchester fest and hang with friends and family.
Anyway my father added to his garage, went from a 1 1/2 to a 2 1/2 car garage. the things that he ran into were; the structure had to be 5 feet from each lot line (that includes the overhang), the foundation had to be below the frost line at the edges and the middle must be 6-8" thick.
He went sideways, so the entire roof was replaced, your going back, so you can simply remove the back wall and extend the roof.
The garage I have now...I decided to completely remove the original one and start from scratch in a different location, concrete alone was 9K and that was a years ago, but...pay cash and you can work a sweet deal...I did! Most quotes were around 12K
Good luck and Maybe I'll run into ya at Westchester Fest in 2010! KC
 

Daniel Dudley

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,546
If the roof goes from side to side, extending the garage would be easy. If it goes from front to back, it needs more thought.

Any pictures ?
 
OP
T

tcline76

New member
Joined
Mar 29, 2010
Messages
2
Location
Westchester, IL
Thanks for the replies. Well I looked into it and yes local code requires the garage to be 5 feet from the lot line. This would cut the extension down to only 3 feet which hardly seems worth it. Maybe I'll just throw a shed back there If I can get away with it. With that dream being shattered and the cost of building a whole new garage being more than I'd like to spend, anyone have tips on inexpensively resurfacing the very crumbled floor?
 
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KCarGuy

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Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
2,075
Location
50 miles outside Chicago, illinois
tcline76,
Sorry to hear about that! look into a thin "lean to" style shed that can be installed up against the back of your garage, even one with a side door.
that would help out nicely.

A friend just bought a house in Brookfield and his basement floor was badly crumbed, he broke it up (8" from foundation) and had a new one poured.

the good thing is he chose to go alittle deeper to add some headroom and added hot water heat in the floor...its fantastic down in his basement now.

there may be a way to resurface your floor by grinding, cleaning, prepping and doing a thin (1-3"???) repour. Not sure how bad your floor is.

Lots of contractors out of work right now, that are willing to work with anyone who has some cash right now, and if your willing to do some of the labor, even better!

Good luck, KC
 

AMCguy

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Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
2,022
Location
Sunshine Coast, BC Canada
If the floor is separate from the foundation, it's no sweat to break it up and pour a new one.
If the wall sits on the perimeter of the floor, what KCarGuy says sounds like a good solution.
 

FPM

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2007
Messages
13
Location
Crystal Lake, Illinois
I want to extend my garage as well. I currently have a 2 1/2 car garage, and I can go tendum on one side. I'd liketo just extend the roof line, and keep the same look, just deeper. I would need to pour cement for the floor and build the frame and finich the roof. So, I'm looking at extending it ~ 10' x 20'.

Does anyone have an idea of what I should be looking to spend?
 

BRIANBB

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
394
Location
Katy Texas
I put a roll up door on the back of my detached garage to allow the use of the area behind it. You could put an awning off the back to cover the area. Use patio stones as base in case they have to dig up that area for utilities. I would assume the shed would have to be movable for the same reason.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
The biggest price and biggest job on any addition, at least in my mind, is the foundation. You just can't mark out a square and pour concrete. You'll have to check into your local codes and see what the foundations require. If you have to go to frostline, then you have excavating cost, footer concrete cost, block or concrete wall cost, then the cost to backfill with stone, then pour the floor.

After that, you can usually pick up a flyer from the local lumberyards or one of the Box Stores. If you keep things in 4' increments, and 2' increments, it's not hard to figure up a ballpark price of what the addition is going to cost. If you have room to store items, buy some stuff off of CL, or the local paper, and store it back for when you're ready to build. It would also pay to do that when the price of items go on sale. You can also check places like your local ReStore if you have one.

In figuring up an addition, remember that studs are 16" apart, trusses at 2' apart. Next time you're in Lowes, go into the tool section and pick up a ProjectCalc which is a yellow project calculator. They come in very handy for figuring out roofing, studs, siding, paint and so on. So for instance FPM wants to build a 10' x 20' addition, which equals 40'. Your looking at 31 studs, then add a few more in for your jack studs, cripple studs, and corners. Round it off to 40 studs. Depending on todays prices, maybe $150 for the wall framing, then another $20 for your bottom plate and another $20 for your double top plate. You'll have 10 sheets of OSB for the walls, so if you get it at a good price...$70. So far, you are a tic under $300 to put up three walls. Now instead of going 20' wide for the addition, go 24' wide and use the standard trusses that all the companies keep in stock. I don't know what the stock 24' truss goes for but the last I saw was around $40 each, and going out 10' you will need 6 standard trusses and 1 gable end truss, so you have around $300 in trusses. Now you have $600 for walls and trusses.

Of course, you'll need to figure up sheeting for the roof, shingles, felt paper, so add another $400-$500 for that. So you are looking at $1000 for the addition not counting siding, and not counting foundation and floor.

But like everything, location dictates price. Those were just some ballpark figures from around here, rounded off. Going with a pole style of addition, you may be able to knock some money off. It all depends on your local code, style of shingles, style of roofing, then add all of the other necessities in like wiring, lights, windows, doors, insulation and so on.

For the OP....if you can only build a 3' addition, which really would be a waste of money, when you put on a new roof, would you be allowed to build up, and if so, would it look right with your existing home? If you could go up, then you could get rid of a lot of items on the main floor which would give you a lot of space.
 
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