Extension cord plug recommendations?

[Regnar]

So I accidentally cut my cord in half and I would like to fix it. I was in HD today and what they had was **** to fix the ends. Cheap plastic that bolts together.

Just wondering if there is a better choice out there? Would love to have almost factory ends.

This was the ****.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pass-Seymour-15-Amp-125-Volt-Yellow-Grip-Plug-PS5965YCC15/202664513

 

[unslow1]

Lots to chose from.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Mal...iryASN5YHgBQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1600&bih=741

I like this style.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrical-...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item5aece93e28

I used to pick them up at Menards but I haven't seen them lately. Maybe try an electrical supply house or hardware store with a contractor section. Ace or Do It Best come to mind.

 

[motoretro]

Menards carries a piece I feel is excellent quality. I believe it's made in the US. Brand is P&S. Very solid connections and very secure plug in feel to receptacle.
Motoretro

 

[jakemac]

I'll use the Pass&Seymore if I have to. The quality isn't that bad for what it is. But if I have the money, I'll pay extra for Hubbell. They have the same style, but better quality (it's their design). These are what we used professionally when I was working in Theater & Entertainment. Hubbells are the only plugs I trust to use on my shop cords because I know they can handle more abuse than P&S or Leviton (which truly is junk IMO).

HBL5965VBLK
HBL5266C

 

[Sonorous]

I'll use the Pass&Seymore if I have to. The quality isn't that bad for what it is. But if I have the money, I'll pay extra for Hubbell. They have the same style, but better quality (it's their design). These are what we used professionally when I was working in Theater & Entertainment. Hubbells are the only plugs I trust to use on my shop cords because I know they can handle more abuse than P&S or Leviton (which truly is junk IMO).

HBL5965VBLK
HBL5266C

I'm also big fan of Hubbell. The HBL5266EBK and HBL5269EBK, available here for $4.49 for male and $6.09 for female (maybe less elsewhere), is fully black, which is desirable for theater/entertainment, but also takes a slightly larger cable IIRC. The specs don't support this, but experience does... I've got boxes of each on shelf!

I have to disagree on Leviton though. They make some good stuff and ****. The 5266-C and most Leviton Industrailwill hold it with the best of them:

P&S 5266-X is also very useable, and I think fits 10/3 SOOW best.

Locally those tend to be VERY expensive, so Bryant, Cooper, Arrow Hart etc. will all do fine, but try to find a similar 5266 style if you want it to last forever.

P.S. Once you start using proper SJ or SO cord you'll never go back to the thermoplastic big-box stuff. It will withstand abuse and if you over/under it it's a pleasure to use whether you're in the desert or arctic. The big boxes have the good stuff but you'll pay for it! Camel Traders is a good reality check on pricing.

 

[theoldwizard1]

This was the ****.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pass-Seymour-15-Amp-125-Volt-Yellow-Grip-Plug-PS5965YCC15/202664513

Well I like them, especially the female end !

Also available in orange.

 

[jeremy v]

I love the 515PR and 515CR Levitons, and I get mine from Zoro. I have probably purchased about 10-12 in the last year to replace worn out power tool cords, fix damaged extension cord ends, etc. The best part is the male 515PRs are less than $2 each, and the female 515CRs are around $3 regular price from Zoro. If I had to I would pay up to about $7 each for them before I would start looking into other possible options, that is how happy I have been with them.

They are commercial use rated cord ends, the plastic they use is very strong but not brittle, the plug blades are thick, the wires attach very securely without stripping the screw threads, the cord jacket clamp is very secure, and there is even an elastic rubber sleeve that the wire goes through when entering the plug housing which prevents water from dripping down the cord and into the plug when being used. For several years now, I have banged them around on the ends of cords and plugged and unplugged them daily on the ends of many of my power tools without any issues.

As a side note, I used to do commercial electrical for a living, and I have used and installed all brands of cord ends. I think the Levitons I mentioned are the best bang for the buck by far, especially when you buy them during a Zoro 25% off sale with free shipping.

http://www.zoro.com/g/NEMA Straight-Blade Plugs Connectors/00055556/

 

[pudgybear]

LOWES has a great cord repair area

 

[jeffmoss26]

I like Hubbell, Leviton, and these:
http://www.lexproducts.com/products...s/15-amp-125-vac-nema-5-15-lexloc-edison-plug

http://www.lexproducts.com/products...evices/lex-loc-edison-15-amp-female-connector

 

[kngelv]

Hubbell.

James

 

[theoldwizard1]

Leviton 3W101-OR

Leviton 3W102-OR

 

[rick carpenter]

I have migrated toward armored P&S or Hubbell. I need to look at Levitons too for next time. Don't forget the underwriter's knot!

 

[Sonorous]

I love the 515PR and 515CR Levitons, and I get mine from Zoro. I have probably purchased about 10-12 in the last year to replace worn out power tool cords, fix damaged extension cord ends, etc. The best part is the male 515PRs are less than $2 each, and the female 515CRs are around $3 regular price from Zoro.

I have a bunch of 14/3 SJ cords that came with those and they have been trouble free. That's a REALLY good price too. The plastic is ever so slightly less resilient, but even those are overkill for pretty well any routine garage application. At that price I couldn't see justifying buying stuff from the hardware store. Order a handful of each to have on hand and be done with it!

For those wondering why you'd ever buy the better ones when these are available, apart from the quality of the plastic, the Hubbells are a step up inside as well. The Leviton blades aren't as firmly held in place, the Hubbell has a really nice protective cover for the terminal connections (which also serves to better secure the blades). The terminals are also captive, so you can back them off fully (quickly) without having them come apart on you, and they hold 'open' so you don't have to fiddle with the terminal or use gravity to get them to stay open.

Here's a pic comparing the Leviton 515 on a retired cord beside a new Hubbell 5266.

My production inventory cables are inspected and the terminals tightened as part of routine maintenance. On a 240/120 assembly, a lose Neutral can wreak havoc and cause big damage as voltage swings! Whatever you use, it's a good idea to pop them open now and then to check that everything is tight. You might be surprised by what you find! Using the right screwdriver/bit is key to getting proper torque. 12 in/lbs for the terminals - I've never actually used a torque screwdriver, but this is GJ after all! If you need an excuse for that Utica torque screwdriver you bought, here it is...

Also, if starting with unfinished cable, it does have a direction. If you find yourself having the criss-cross the conductors to line up with the terminals, you're on the wrong end. Actually.

 

[Sonorous]

That pic looks pretty bad on an actual screen... Here is Hubbell's explanation of why it's superior. There is a reason they are the gold standard!

Another cord manufacturer worthy of mention is Marinco. They are mainly marine stuff, but they were the only reliable source for IEC connectors when I needed a whole lot of them. Pricey little things at about $15, but these are all the rage in the hifi world where people will pay hundreds of dollars for a cable with these identical connectors and some voodoo fairy dust for good measure.

Ok... I'll promise to stop geeking out on plugs and receptacles now!

 

[Sonorous]

Don't forget the underwriter's knot!

In some applications, especially with SPT-2 (aka lamp cord) a knot serves as strain relief to pass UL's pull out test. I would use products for their intended application and follow the instructions on the use of the strain relief.

I wouldn't hesitate to rely on the strain relief on the 50a cali connector to escape a burning building. I'd be a bit squeamish with the smaller ones, but I'm sure they'd hold. I've seen thousands of pounds of speakers held up by locking connectors on 12/4 SJOW when things get caught as they are lowered with motors. Usually whatever they are attached to (i.e. the device itself) fails before the cable strain relief does.