ClrkLndeKmt'su
Well-known member
I was at lowes today buying some 12/3 cable to replace my chewed up miter saw cable, and it hit me.... Why don't I make my own extension cords? Anyone else do this?
Extension cords.
- Thread starter ClrkLndeKmt'su
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rlitman
Well-known member
Because extension cords are generally cheaper (but not better).
I prefer SO extension cords that use rubber jackets, as they stay flexible in the cold. Cheaper cords use PVC, and that gets brittle.
I prefer SO extension cords that use rubber jackets, as they stay flexible in the cold. Cheaper cords use PVC, and that gets brittle.
I've been making my own cords for years, have a large Christmas display and the custom lengths make things much neater. I bought a few 250' spools of SOOW 12/3 form a local supplier and after you add the price of plugs it's around $0.70 a foot for really decent cords.
sberry
Banned
I usually don't make it as its too expensive, ends cost a lot compared to a ready made and its a rare day I need a 12, use a common 16 about 100 times for every once a heavy one is needed. I would have to work to think the last time I needed a 12 cord.
MFolks
Well-known member
Many years ago I had job repairing the "Rowenta" Steam Irons. I can't tell you how many times irons would come in for repairs, and would work good in the shop. Sometimes the owner would include a phone number, so I ask "What size extension cord are you using?". Almost every answer would be " I got one at the local hardware store, or something my Husband or boyfriend got for me"
The majority of the irons I worked on were rated a 1800 Watts, so if the person was using a skimpy(20 gauge or slightly larger) cord, the voltage/current drop would affect the iron operation. Many of the irons were tested and sent back, with no defect found, and a note from me to get at least a 14 gauge extension cord.
Unfortunately, most people are not aware of current demands on their electrical appliances, and can burn out motors if the incorrect size is used.
The majority of the irons I worked on were rated a 1800 Watts, so if the person was using a skimpy(20 gauge or slightly larger) cord, the voltage/current drop would affect the iron operation. Many of the irons were tested and sent back, with no defect found, and a note from me to get at least a 14 gauge extension cord.
Unfortunately, most people are not aware of current demands on their electrical appliances, and can burn out motors if the incorrect size is used.
TheGrooveking
Well-known member
I've done this for over 25 years, the only other cords I have are some of the newer Ridgid 100' & 50' with the lighted ends when they have power and a few of these old 16/3 blue ones designed for minus 20 where they remain flexible, use them on battery charges when needed.
TheGrooveking
TheGrooveking
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Definitely cheaper ! Decent quality cord ends are expensive.
Just watch what kind of cord it is. If it starts with SO or SJO it is "rubber". If it is SJT is is "plastic" (not PVC) and will be very stiff when it is cold.
If the second letter is "J", it is only good for less than 300V !
BTW, when I need 10-20 feet of cord with only one end, I have bought 100' extension cords and cut off what I needed. 100' cost less per foot than 50' or 25'.
jackfork
Well-known member
Grainger is 1.97 per foot for SOOW 12/3 @100' and HD is 1.05 anyone know of any better pricing?
TheGrooveking
Well-known member
Check Grainger's red tag sale, last year I picked up 2 rolls 100' of 12/3 SO yellow for $100 each.
TheGrooveking
TheGrooveking
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
I did it all the time when I ran lighting and sound at school...twistlock, stage pin, edison plugs. I replaced more broken plugs on extension cords than I can count.
06 DIESEL
Well-known member
OSHA will allow replacement ends as long as they were installed by a qualified electrician. I would hate to know how many cords I have cut the male end off of because they were missing a ground plug on a construction site. I always give a warning to get rid of it or repair it before I cut it, and I mark it so that I know if it has had a warning on it already.
Most guys that work for large companies just throw the cord away and get a new one, and those always end up at my house with a new end put on them.
Most guys that work for large companies just throw the cord away and get a new one, and those always end up at my house with a new end put on them.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
I was just at HD tonight and it is cheaper to buy Ridgid cords than their 12/3 or 14/3. And I dig the lighted ends.
I am going to buy the Ridgid 25' for my tool cords- then they will have nice cord and lighted end as well. And add the cord protectors where needed--http://www.ebay.com/itm/370784780287?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Then I ran across these tonight...what you say? Good cord or no go? http://www.ebay.com/itm/25Ft-14-Gau...Domain_0&var=470029482590&hash=item27bbad9a50
I am going to buy the Ridgid 25' for my tool cords- then they will have nice cord and lighted end as well. And add the cord protectors where needed--http://www.ebay.com/itm/370784780287?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Then I ran across these tonight...what you say? Good cord or no go? http://www.ebay.com/itm/25Ft-14-Gau...Domain_0&var=470029482590&hash=item27bbad9a50
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Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
rlitman
Well-known member
S means that the cord is stranded.
The J stands for Junior. J cords have a thinner jacket.
What sort of plastic do you think it is? It is PVC. AKA vinyl.
BTW, the T stands for thermoplastic. PVC is a common thermoplastic, and the cheapest type used to insulate extension cords.
An "E" would mean that the insulation is TPE elastomer, which is flexible in the cold, and holds up to extreme heat too.
O means that the rubber is oil resistant.
W means that the cord is weather resistant.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
If you are really getting 6 cords, that is a pretty good price ! But who need 6 26' cords ?
The SJTW insulation is stiffer than SJW, especially in cold weather. Also not "oil resistant".
I personally make 10/3 extension coords with SOOW from PLC Center
http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/AMERICAN INSULATED/2220700000
Quality plug ends are expensive, but the quality, durability and reliability of the finished product makes it worth it to me.
I bought a bunch when they had surplus at $0.51/foot. $1.02/foot is still a decent price, but with shipping, it isn't that much better than what I can find locally. Great company to deal with, though.
http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/AMERICAN INSULATED/2220700000
Quality plug ends are expensive, but the quality, durability and reliability of the finished product makes it worth it to me.
I bought a bunch when they had surplus at $0.51/foot. $1.02/foot is still a decent price, but with shipping, it isn't that much better than what I can find locally. Great company to deal with, though.
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sberry
Banned
Yes, 3 conductor. I have a couple of 12's and would set them up if there was a true demand. A 25 ft 16 or even 50 works to zing a board off with a circ saw, (no load starts, short cycle) my power is hot and close to the source and anythiong less than that load, a ginder, drill etc, ecen sawzall is easily handled by a 16A cord I buy new with factory ends for 5 or 6 $ is great in my book.
Power tools are not continious un attended loads in most cases. I got a couple of dozen of those cords, would be lost without them, extremely convenient.
Power tools are not continious un attended loads in most cases. I got a couple of dozen of those cords, would be lost without them, extremely convenient.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
That's correct. In addition, there is a ground wire in the cord that is not usually mentioned in the description.
12/2: two 12 gauge conductors plus ground
12/3: three 12 gauge conductors plus ground
and so on.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
ok, in HD, buying wire by the foot, 12/3 is really 4 wires(including ground)-black/white/red/green, but when you look at an extension cord, the package will say 12/3 and it is really 3-black/white/green.
THIS IS CONFUSING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why do they do that?
sberry
Banned
The ground is assumed in a cable because every circuit should be grounded during an installation, a covered flexable cord counts all the conductors.
I try to use a heavy cord all the time. It makes a difference. Alot of time you hear the tool working harder than it has to. The longer the distance and the greater the load or current draw, the better a heavier cord helps.
The cheap plastic insulation *****, especially in the cold. Sometimes the nice flexible insulation makes a cord floppy in the heat, but they are still better.
I would rather have a bigger cord than needed, then to make a tool strain.
The cheap plastic insulation *****, especially in the cold. Sometimes the nice flexible insulation makes a cord floppy in the heat, but they are still better.
I would rather have a bigger cord than needed, then to make a tool strain.
Not quite, the first number, in this case 12 is the gauge. The second is the number of insulated conductors, and since all of the conductors in flexible cord are insulated the ground is counted. If you want an extension cord with a white, a black, and a green you need a 12/3. If you get a piece of cable such as NMD or Teck 12/3 has a black white and red along with an uninsulated ground.
Just to add to the confusion
durallymax
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I gave up on extensions cords in the shop. They always would disappear the next day and come back cut up by a lawn mower or snow plow. Now that they are on the ceiling I do not foresee them traveling as far.
Never know though they might decide to just cut it off and put and end on it.
Never know though they might decide to just cut it off and put and end on it.
shampoop
Well-known member
In the description I read this.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"these extension cords provide Continuous Ground Monitoring (CGM), an OSHA safety requirement. A green neon light in the female connector lets you know at-a-glance that there is a continuous ground. "[/FONT][/FONT]
An osha safety requirement in what situation? I've never heard of it.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
I use both GOOD premade extensions and DIY SO cord.
They each have their own applications. And I don't use a 10AWG or 12AWG if a 14awg 25 footer will do. It depends on the application and use....
Premade cords are fairly weather resistant due to the moulded plugs versus slapping on a 15amp connector on a cord.
They each have their own applications. And I don't use a 10AWG or 12AWG if a 14awg 25 footer will do. It depends on the application and use....
Premade cords are fairly weather resistant due to the moulded plugs versus slapping on a 15amp connector on a cord.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Not the number of conductors, but the total number of wires in the cord. All insulated wires, including the ground are counted. This is different than "Romex" where the bare ground is not included in the count, thus "12/2 w/grd".
"cord" and "wire" are different.
Charles
What wire gauge are those cords? They look to be 12/3 at least.
oilfieldtrash4
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Bought a 100ft 12/3 @Costco for $38.
OP
ClrkLndeKmt'su
Well-known member
I gave up on extensions cords in the shop. They always would disappear the next day and come back cut up by a lawn mower or snow plow. Now that they are on the ceiling I do not foresee them traveling as far.
Never know though they might decide to just cut it off and put and end on it.
One or two of those would be awesome in my van! Still need the generator part though......
durallymax
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Yes they are 12/3. SJTOOW says Seoprene on them. Guessing thats the casing? They do not feel cheap like many cords. Not as expensive feeling as the Metabo grinder cords though.
These are 45' rated for 15amp 300v. I could've got the 20 amp, but it had the same cable, just a better end for a lot more money and they were shorter. We will mostly be using them for hand tools, grinders, shop vac and such. They will never see cold weather.
Well this is confusing. Looking up Seoprene and double checking the cords conflicts each other. According to coleman who supposedly pioneered seoprene it should have and "E" and not a "T". Yet after the SJTOOW on the cable it has "TPE" in parenthesis.
More confusion. Oh well, they are heavy and feel nice.
http://www.colemancable.com/support/faq-technical-specs/faq-portable/
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ishiboo
Well-known member
Not correct. Cords count ALL conductors. 12/3 has white/black/green, the same number/conductors as 12/2 NM.
