Exterior door jambs for dummies

[steveivy]

So, this garage project has been a series of firsts for me: first time framing an entire building myself, first time managing multiple contractors on a (very loose) schedule, first time renting equipment to fix work done by a contractor (not the last I'm sure)...

Now I'm faced with another first: trying to build a door frame from scratch for a SOLID wood exterior door (inswing) that I got off craigslist. It's a gorgeous mid-century style with some nasty paint I will one day strip, but right now I need to get it in place.

I've been Googling for videos and looking at the big-box stores for kits, and feeling pretty stupid. Anyone got a link to a good step by step instructions/description of how to do this? I'm going to be looking at an existing door for inspiration, but would love some help!

--Steve

 

[CJ7VFR]

Do you have any friends/relatives/neighbors that have garages that do not have drywall installed on the walls?

If so, you can go and see how the people door is framed out, as the framing and door jamb will be exposed on the inside.

This will give you a pretty good idea about how to do it. Good luck, and please post some pictures of the door! It sounds nice!!

Jim

 

[steveivy]

Hey Jim - this is the door I'm hanging:





The dark green with the hand-carved lead motif is the outside. Too bad it's only going on a shop! But it's got tons of character.

 

[CJ7VFR]

That is cool! How wide is it? Very nice!

Jim

 

[steveivy]

It's a 36 x 80, which is conveniently a standard size!

 

[Cyberbear]

You have not mentioned if this used door is a 1 3/4" thick solid unit with existing hinges and knob/dead bolt holes. If I remember from years, past Home Depot used to sell ready made three piece, solid wood, exterior door jamb kits that only needed minor trimming to install. You may need to learn about using shims to properly plumb the vertical jamb pieces. And, while you are making the rough opening framing, you may wish to reinforce the areas where the locks and hinges will be mounted. I've seen too many installations where there is a gap between the jamb and rough opening framing which creates a weak situation, where the jamb only is keeping the door from being kicked open, not the best way it should be done. I use heavy and long flat head sheet metal screws for the hinges and lock plates to be screwed through into the rough framing. Also, I prefer commercial steel doors on my exterior openings for added security, and found nice used ones for $10.00 each at a building salvage yard.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Any decent lumber yard will sell you a jamb kit. As for installing the jamb and hanging the door, there are basic carpentry books out there that should explain the step by step process - check the book shelf at your local big box store, or even better check your local library and sign one out for free.

 

[steveivy]

Cyberbear,

The door is 36 x 80 x 1.75, with hinge, knob and deadbolt holes in place.

Headed to HD later this morning for some stuff and will check out their selection.

 

[Kevin54]

Steve.....before you make a frame, do you have a ReStore close to you? If so, check them out as they normally have quite a few doors and frames in stock. You can always get a door and frame, then shitcan the door, and use the frame for your door. If the frame is made for a 2x4 wall, just add an extension to the frame.

If you don't have a ReStore, or can't find a frame in one, then go to Lowes and just take some measurements off of one of their prehungs and snap a couple of pics with your phone as to the construction. But all in all, a door frame is fairly simple. It has a lap joint at the top, and at the bottom where your sill plate is. Then you have to make sure that you make it for your wall thickness which will be your 2x4 or 6 plus sheeting, plus drywall or OSB on the inside. Then you will need a router template, or at least a set of sharp chisels to cut in your door hinges.

Also remember to make your top and bottom boards the width of the door plus some for clearance. then you will need your door stop plus some sort of weather stripping to keep any draft out.

 

[CJ7VFR]

It's a 36 x 80, which is conveniently a standard size!

Are you going to hang the door in the space right behind where you have it shown leaning up against the wall?

Jim

 

[captain14]

When we hung a door saved from a building that was being torn down,

1 I got a jamb kit from the lumber yard ,
2 assembled it flat on sawhorses,
3. Marked my cuts for the hinges,
4 basically built the door up as a pre-hung unit
5 Hung the entire assembly.

 

[rsanter]

There is not much to a door jamb kit.
Go to the store and look at the prehung doors. They will even have some cheap *** kits.
Look how they did it and then copy that only better.

Do you weld? You could make a jamb kit out of metal tubing that would make the door harder to kick in

Bob

 

[bczygan]

Why didn't you get a prehung door?

It's not easy to hang a door, at least for me.

Beautiful door BTW.

Any threshold planned?

For a heavy door like that I would get a HD jamb.

Make sure the jamb depth is correct.

There are lots of videos of what to it do on YouTube.

Bill

 

[steveivy]

Are you going to hang the door in the space right behind where you have it shown leaning up against the wall?



Jim

Hey Jim,

Here's the rough opening, which is currently 39x81.5

 

[Hawk]

Why didn't you get a prehung door?

It's not easy to hang a door.

Bill

Not in my world. A little shimming and some security precautions. Never had a problem with any door I hung. And I hung a bunch over the years. The first one is the hardest, after that they all get easier.

 

[bczygan]

Not in my world. A little shimming and some security precautions. Never had a problem with any door I hung. And I hung a bunch over the years. The first one is the hardest, after that they all get easier.

Well for you guys who know how maybe...

Bill

 

[steveivy]

Well, my philosophy is: if there's a chance I'm going to do something more than twice, fumble through and learn how to do it. Otherwise, pay someone

I picked up a frame kit at the local HD and between that and my router I'm going to hang this puppy soon. Spent some time today learning the router (not much to it really) and just need to plan out the jig for the hinge cutouts in the jamb.

Thanks for all the great advice and tips folks!

--Steve

 

[readhead]

By the time you add the threshold you will not have enough height in the rough opening. Since you are doing a custom install just cut down the door. Don't forget to bevel both edges so you don't get the hinges bound. Typical rough opening dims for an exterior door would be 2" wider and 3" higher than the call out size.

 

[steveivy]

Hey readhead,

yeah I was already thinking I'd have to trim the door down a little for the threshold. Thanks!

 

[steveivy]

So, while moving this door around today in preparation, I remembered how HEAVY the damn thing is - maybe 75-80lbs. The rough framing is your typical 2x4 wall with standard jacks and a 2x6 header. Any tips on supporting this door so it doesn't sag?

 

[csp]

Make sure that at least one screw in each hinge is long enough to get a good bite into the framing lumber, not just the jamb. The framing is strong enough to keep it from sagging.

 

[pcmeiners]

For a 70lb door, I would use a 5/4 jam , 3/4" is harder to set as it flexes. 3/4" is used by door manufacturers, fully knowing it should not be used to save a buck. 5/4 is so much faster to set a jam. Get the hinge level, 4ft level min, 6ft better, long screws are best, I also use foam or autobody filler. On strike, I use 4" stainless screws for security through jam into beams, mind you, if you have a fire it will require total destruction of door with a ram to gain entrance, I had the experience.

 

[rlitman]

I wouldn't dare hang a door with a 4' level. 6' is what I use, but a 78" level is made just for door hanging.

If you go with a 3/4" jamb, consider using a cup strike for the deadbolt on an exterior door. That should have two screw holes at the bottom of the cup which you orient towards the center of the frame, and send screws into the stud.

 

[steveivy]

I already have a HD 3/4 jamb, but I'm going to look at putting it up with something more than basic shims backing it so it doesn't flex as much.