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Exterior painting question

espyking83

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Hell hole of a King Air 200
Hey,

Looking to paint the exterior trim of the house soon. Was wondering if it would be ok to sand the paint off and leave it for a few days before paint application. Have painted anything from cars to aircraft, never touched wood lol
 
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nadogail

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Coronado, CA
I might Pressure Wash the house and then address any unsound wood or loose paint the pressure washing did not remove.

Any sound paint would just be painted over.
 

hefnerconstructionlc

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Kansas
Unless the surface looks terrible I would avoid sanding to bare wood. If sanding to bare wood you will need to prime with exterior wood primer and then 1-2 topcoats of paint. If you sand, but don't go to bare wood, you will avoid needing to perform the primer step.
 

four.cycle

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Tacoma, Washington
^ Taking exterior trim down to bare wood is a lot of work, as mentioned. Also will have to be sealed/primed (depending upon what you're working with.)
Also mentioned: scraping.
Some stuff you can get done a lot faster with less work with a good scraper. Depends on what you're working with.
If you're good with a scraper, you can take off only what you need to and leave a smooth surface ready to paint- not always necessary (or desirable) to go all the way down to bare wood - brings the grain up on soft trim woods (hemlock/fir.)
 

billconner

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Thousand Islands NYS
I removed the aluminum siding installed over wood clapboards on a largish house - 30x36 2 story - and having tried a lot of methods, believe a good carbide blade scraper - several actually with lots of spare blades - is the easiest. Not easy but easier than chemicals, sanders, the Paint Shaver, etc. There were few places where paint was really thick a heat plate helped.

Well, easiest would be hiring someone. :)
 

Hank11

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Tennessee
No to pressure washing. Yes to scraping for the best look, but its a lot of work. You don’t have to take it to 100% bare wood, just get the loose stuff off and make it flat.
 

Skiff Builder

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Southern NJ Coast
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned the Porter Cable 7403 paint remover. I've owned one since the early 90's.
Uses a carbide disk and has adjusters to set angle/depth.
One pass on clapboards gets you to bare wood ready for primer.
Works on flat trim boards.
I actually did my entire house of cedar sidewall shingles- not really what tool was designed for but it worked.
3.5 days labor saved $20,000 in new siding on that job.

PAINT REMOVER.jpg
 
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imagineer

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I'm surprised no one here has mentioned the Porter Cable 7403 paint remover. I've owned one since the early 90's.
Uses a carbide disk and has adjusters to set angle/depth.
One pass on clapboards gets you to bare wood ready for primer.
Works on flat trim boards.
I actually did my entire house of cedar sidewall shingles- not really what tool was designed for but it worked.
3.5 days labor saved $20,000 in new siding on that job.

PAINT REMOVER.jpg
Any idea how the cutters hold up when they hit a nail head?

I'm repainting my house now (T-111 plywood siding). I'm using a 2.375" carbide bladed scraper for removing the loose paint. The carbide blades have received some chips from where I hit nail heads that are proud of the siding surface.
 

oldmachinenut

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Missing, presumed dead in central Pa.
I used a heat gun and various scrapers to strip the posts and railings on our 1903 Victorian. I stripped, filled, and sanded then applied oil based exterior primer followed by 2 coats of paint. It came out real nice but took considerably longer than I expected. Being it is a 120 year old house there was lead paint explaining why I constantly hear Jimmi Hendrix playing “Purple Haze” and there are no radios in sight.🤪IMG_1014.jpeg
 

Skiff Builder

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Any idea how the cutters hold up when they hit a nail head?

I'm repainting my house now (T-111 plywood siding). I'm using a 2.375" carbide bladed scraper for removing the loose paint. The carbide blades have received some chips from where I hit nail heads that are proud of the siding surface.
The tool uses a carbide grit disc, not blades or cutters. You have the leading edge of the disc raised a little higher than the trailing edge.
In my experience it will grind (sand) the nail head as it passes. Never had a hang up or ruin a disc.
The first step for me in any re paint is to replace any bad boards than re set any protruding fasteners ( easy to find, just run a 6" putty knife over the surface).

DISK.jpg
 

Bert_

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NW Iowa
The big reason to scrape or sand down to wood is because your paint is unstable or excessive build up.

I have scraped paint with a heat gun and can vouch that it works pretty well. Actually if you're doing a large area a couple heat guns taped together can about double your speed.
 

Youngandfree

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Dec 29, 2020
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VA
I used a heat gun and various scrapers to strip the posts and railings on our 1903 Victorian. I stripped, filled, and sanded then applied oil based exterior primer followed by 2 coats of paint. It came out real nice but took considerably longer than I expected. Being it is a 120 year old house there was lead paint explaining why I constantly hear Jimmi Hendrix playing “Purple Haze” and there are no radios in sight.🤪IMG_1014.jpeg
Around my area the homes like that all get scraped and sanded for the restoration paint job.
 

imagineer

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Just wanted to add that this thing is great. It's at least 5x faster than manual scraping of the old paint and does a much more thorough job. FWIW, I keep it set to the minimum depth of cut.

I will say however, the ergonomics are awful. Using the fixed and adjustable handles, it's difficult to keep even pressure on the cutting disk. I find it easier to hold the tool with two hands, under the handles, around the base of the motor.

Even with the awkward handling, this qualifies as the best $$ spent on a new (used) tool. Good suggestion Skiff.
 

Skiff Builder

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Just wanted to add that this thing is great. It's at least 5x faster than manual scraping of the old paint and does a much more thorough job. FWIW, I keep it set to the minimum depth of cut.

I will say however, the ergonomics are awful. Using the fixed and adjustable handles, it's difficult to keep even pressure on the cutting disk. I find it easier to hold the tool with two hands, under the handles, around the base of the motor.

Even with the awkward handling, this qualifies as the best $$ spent on a new (used) tool. Good suggestion Skiff.
Glad it's working out for you. I found I really had to dial in both adjusting rails just right. Behaved better moving along the siding.
I smile whenever using it.

Any pics of the job?
 

Norcal

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Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,769
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned the Porter Cable 7403 paint remover. I've owned one since the early 90's.
Uses a carbide disk and has adjusters to set angle/depth.
One pass on clapboards gets you to bare wood ready for primer.
Works on flat trim boards.
I actually did my entire house of cedar sidewall shingles- not really what tool was designed for but it worked.
3.5 days labor saved $20,000 in new siding on that job.

PAINT REMOVER.jpg

Is it still available? The garbage makers at Stanley/Black & Decker have gutted Porter-Cable.
 
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