Exterior Sheathing???

[blackoak]

I am building an 18x20 garage with an attic. The siding will be vertical pine board and batten. I may at some point want to use the structure as a heated workshop. My intention is to apply tyvek over the framed walls, apply 1 1/2 x 4 strapping and the do the board and batten with 8" boards. For structural integrity I was going to install metal bracing on the inside, Is this adequate or should I board in the walls first?? Thanks

 

[eljefino]

Are you doing the pine boards b/c they're aesthetically pleasing, cheap/ on hand, or ???

Plywood really stiffens up against twisting; I presume you'd rather not use it as a layer either inside or out of the studs?

What kind of metal bracing were you thinking, diagonal rods & turnbuckles?

 

[CNGsaves]

Welcome to GJ and there are lots of gurus here who can give you great advice . . . IF . . . given enough information.

Building methods and codes often depend on LOCATION. Thus, a building in Florida is built with storm specific hurricane straps and shear protection, compared to say one in Wisconsin (ie more worried about snow load).

Update your GJ Profile with City / State / Country. Good luck.

 

[blackoak]

Yeah, I'm using the board and batten pine because of aesthetic reasons. I'm hoping to skip boarding in if is not really necessary. I thought that the heavy strapping would help wwith the twisting, I would apply them about every 24". The metal braces would be the type that fit into a saw cut diagonally along the inside walls.

 

[DTE]

You could use T1-11 siding and put the batten boards on that for the same look.

 

[zcar751]

+1 on the DTE's suggestion. How do you plan on building the walls because is you plan on heating you will need to insulate and studs 16"oc will make for the easiest solution for that. Also you mention "attic" pray tell what your thinking of it terms of load.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You could use T1-11 siding and put the batten boards on that for the same look.

I would consider this to help make it tighter (heating/cooling) for the future.

 

[blackoak]

I have built the walls with rough sawn 2x6 16" OC. The pine board and batten is being used because it is readily available at a good price in my area.

 

[Moose97]

I am building an 18x20 garage with an attic. The siding will be vertical pine board and batten. I may at some point want to use the structure as a heated workshop. My intention is to apply tyvek over the framed walls, apply 1 1/2 x 4 strapping and the do the board and batten with 8" boards. For structural integrity I was going to install metal bracing on the inside, Is this adequate or should I board in the walls first?? Thanks

I would probably wrap the whole thing in OSB then Tyvek. You could use let-ins (metal or wood) and possibly be OK but I like wood all the way around. Corners out to 4 ft w/out openings nailed at 6" oc perimeter and 12" in field and you'll meet a 90 mph wind load requirement. Anything else get an engineers design to meet wind bracing in your area.

 

[Zeke]

1 1/2" firring strips or whatever you want to call them due to location or construction vernacular are oversized. The thickness gives you nothing, especially if the walls are 2 x 6. Which is what I'd do, 2 x 6 on 24" centers for insulation. You might Google OVE framing.

AFA backing, you could use solid blocking at 24" increments, but that's a lot of work. However, that doesn't address your bracing question. Diagonal bracing is a bit old fashioned and isn't even recognized here in earthquake country.

If this is going to be a shop, you could sheath the inside walls and get the same effect. I'm not a fan of placing vertical siding directly over sheathing, so if I put it on the outside, I'd still run the strips for air circulation.

No need to waste what could serve as an interior wall under another wall.

 

[blackoak]

Thanks to all, I appreciate your advice